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Better 60ft. times in a foxbody mustang...how to do it?


90redgt
04-05-2005, 09:48 AM
i'd like to find out any tricks of the trade or mods that i haven't thought of yet in order to get better 60ft. times in my Mustang. It's a 90GT with few suspension mods. All i have pretty much is Lakewood 90/10's in the front and 50/50's out back. Stock springs and Steeda rear lower control arms. So far to date i've only been able to pull off a 1.95 60ft on BFG drag radials (215/50/15). That was on an unprepped track. I've tried slipping clutch at 2500, slipping it at 3500, 3000, and 4500. I either spin the damn tires to much or it just takes off to slow and i end up getting a 2.0 60ft. 18psi in the tires. I'm thinking i just need tires that will give me more grip. Maybe some Slicks or something else. If you guys can give me some advice i'd much appreciate it. right now i'm in iraq but when i get home on my 2 week R&R then i'm gonna continue where i left off with the car. It traps 110mph, and the best time i've been able to get was 12.77, which was the same run i finally pulled off a sub-2.0 60ft. Would a line lock help alot when it comes to warming up the tires? Usually when i do my burnouts (my car is a manual) the car rolls forward pretty quick and so can't spin the tires for very long and there's no smoke coming off them. I also do my burnouts in 2nd gear i've been able to spin the tires longer and harder than in 1st gear. So any tips would be gladly accepted because i don't know if theres anything out there that i might have not thought of. thanks

and powershifting has always been a part of my driving style at the track. i know that is supposed to knock off a tenth or two.

chevytrucks92
04-05-2005, 10:51 AM
Maybe if you could firm up your rear springs a little. That would help. If you had the money, you could put a set of ladder bars on it. That would improve how the car hooks (4-link would do the same, but man those things are aggrevating to get set up, lol).

I would even drop the pressure a little in the tires. And from what I've seen at the track, if you're on street tires, its best to only turn them over a couple times and its best to stay out of the water, lol. Now with DRs, I havn't a clue, but I'm sure Mr. Lous or Slowprocess or bad360RT will see your post and give you some insight on DRs.

AWP9521
04-06-2005, 01:01 AM
A line lock will help with the burnout but you should be able to pop the clutch in 2nd gear and then hit the brake in the burnout area and get enough rotational speed in the rear to get some smoke out of them.

Chevytrucks92 is on the right track, you probably need to adjust your air pressure, If you have somebody with you or can get sombody to watch, after you do your burnout, do another dry one and have the other person see how the rubber is laid down, your "patch" should be the same width as the tire's total tread width and the same darkness, if it's darker in the center and light or non-existant on the outside then you got too much air in the tires, let some air out and try again. Conversely if the outside of the patch is darker than the center then you need to add some air, you need to get an even patch down to the ground on both tires for the best possible traction. You might find that you will need to run one tire at a little higher pressure than the other, keep working at it until you get a patch on both tires that are black all across the width of the tread. That's the pressure you want to run and will give you the best possible traction on the launch and will probably be less than 18 PSI. Then take your shoe polish and draw a line from the bead seat of the wheel and continue on to the sidewall of the tire in a straight line there's a reason for this, if you are finally getting decent traction with the rubber, you may be spinning the bead on the wheel which will also hurt the short time. It may take a few runs to see it but if it's doing it you will notice the lines don't "line up" like they should. If that happens you should consider some Bead Locks for the wheels to keep them from spinning inside the tire.

If you still can't hook on a hard launch then consider getting some slicks. If you have to slip the clutch to get a good launch all your doing is killing the clutch, unless you like yanking the tranny out to replace the clutch a lot I strongly advise against slipping the clutch to launch the car, try to get the best launch without bogging with the least amount of wheel spin as possible if you can, if not get some slicks.

Your on the right track with the 90/10's on the front to get the quick lift, and the control arm is a plus too, you want to run enough pressure to get the tread patterjn described previously and also have the tire sidewall soft enough that the rear end will litterally "drive" the axle down towards the ground in effect "planting" the tire to the pavement. Good grip of the rubber and a hard launch will do that.

You do have the potential for runs closer to 12 flat or slightly higher with the trap speeds your running now, and short times in the 1.7 range if you can get the grip.

I can share another little tip My brother and I did on a 79 Stang I used to race but if this car is street driven then I haghly advise against it. We took off the top strut (Strut removal was not necessary) plates that bolted to the towers, cut off the bell on the bottoms of them that the strut's rubber boots slid on to then flipped them over and rebolted them to the towers and bolted the strut shaft back on. Not sure if you can do that to a 90 or not but what it gave us was another 2-3" extension on the front end allowing it to lift higher (As in pull wheelies) at launch, the benefit was increased weight transfer towards the back of the car and making the rear end plant even harder. After that modification I was getting short times that were in the high 1.6 - low 1.7 range down solidly into the 1.5 range (1.548 was the best) on slicks. But like I said, it is not advisable to do this on a street driven vehicle.

BTW just to satify your curiosity my trap speeds were between 111 - 113 with a best ET of 11.849 and your not that far off with your trap speed so if you can get it to hook.....

90redgt
04-07-2005, 09:52 AM
alright that's the kinda stuff i'm lookin' for. thanks a lot guys for the info. i'll definately keep that stuff in the back of my head when i get home to try it out.

thanks again.

JekylandHyde
04-09-2005, 08:15 AM
a 1.95 60ft on BFG drag radials (215/50/15).
You need more meat in your diet ... bigger tires = better 60's

I am now using a 275/50/15 BFG (will be switching over the M/Ts).
Last year I ran the 255/50/16 BFGs and managed a 1.6 and a pile of 1.7s.

If I can stuff that much meat under my MR2, you can surely get it under your stang. Good luck.

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