1999 rodeo v6 wont start no idle

Hey there,

Bought my rodeo 1 month ago used with 59,000 miles and have already had two problems with it. the first problem was hard shifting and the dealers warranty covered half of the cost to replace asm switch.....okay so that problem fixed but know a new problem has begun. Since i have had it, you have to give the car gas when starting and sometimes i will die the first time you start it but always starts on the second or third time. But otherwise ran perfect. Two days ago, while on the freeway, the car died when i was slowing down( when i let off the gas). The check engine light came on and for the rest of the way home the car ran but died whenever you let off the gas. So i let it sit overnight and the next day it wouldnt even idle at all. Every time the car would turn over but instead of idleing it would die instantly. Got it towed to a mechanic and he told me today that i was the control sensor or idle control(something to do with the idle). He reset it and the check engine light went off and he says the car runs fine. But he also said if the light comes on again then it would be that idle sensor/control. What part is he talking about? Will a reset fix a problem like that? Any advice you have would be very helpful. He quoted me 700 to replace that part(he said the exact name but i dont remember but i know it had the word control in it and that it has to do with the control the idle.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=368175&highlight=harness

maybe a short in the wireharness.

I think the part he is referring to is the Idle Air Control valve (IAC). Its an electronic valve that bypasses the throttle plate and lets air into the engine. It basically just controls idle speed. Sometimes they can get gunked up and then they get stuck, causing your car to idle funny or die. Sometimes just taking it off and cleaning it helps, other times the motor inside it that retracts the pintle is bad and the part needs to be replaced. Here's what it looks like:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v34/superfret78/2-1867.jpg

Unless the 99 rodeos have something sitting on top of the throttle body (and I doubt that) that makes access to the IAC valve difficult..the labor shouldn't be much at all on this job if you take it to a shop.....and a replacement IAC valve is $50 at advance auto parts, so an OEM one from the dealer shouldn't be too outrageous either. $700 seems WAY high for an IAC valve replacement. Are you sure he didn't mentio anything else?

thanks for the info.....i will pick up the car tommrow. Do you think that the mechanic reseting the CEL will actually work(he said it did) or should i just plan on paying for some new part? i willpost what code it was telling him when i find out tommrow...do you know what the code is for the idle control valve?

thanks for the info.....i will pick up the car tommrow. Do you think that the mechanic reseting the CEL will actually work(he said it did) or should i just plan on paying for some new part? i willpost what code it was telling him when i find out tommrow...do you know what the code is for the idle control valve?

If all he did was reset the CEL then he did nothing that you couldn't have done by pulling the ECM fuse or disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. I doubt that the ECM software is made by Micro$oft, so don't expect resetting the CEL to miraculously make things all better.

As far as the codes that correspond to the IAC these are three of them;

P0505 - Idle Control System Malfunction

P0506 - IAC System RPM Low

P0507 - IAC System RPM High

Yeah....resetting the CEL won't do squat.

If the IAC valve gets stuck all the way out, no air is bypassing the throttle plate and as a result, the engine will die immediately upon start.

picked up the rodeo....mechanic said it was the throttle body? runs fine now but still having start up issues.sometimes it starts and dies still and sometimes it starts and idle high(slowly goes down though)but either way it always starts on the 2 or third start. As far as the stalling when driving it has only happened once so far but the idle seems perfect when driving around. I dont think it is the throttle body because the only issue it really has is the start up. The place i took it was an "import and domestic"mechanic...so that makes me think it could be something different.Let me know what you think?

Hey there,

Bought my rodeo 1 month ago used with 59,000 miles and have already had two problems with it. the first problem was hard shifting and the dealers warranty covered half of the cost to replace asm switch.....

Just curious. What is an "asm switch"?

John

Sounds like the throttle body/EGR system needs to be cleaned.

An Import mechanic is a good idea, I intentionally have never taken my Rodeo to a domestic mechanic - I've heard they cause more harm then good as they take one look at the Isuzu engine and they "think" they know how to work on them.

thanks for the info...did it again tonight. starts and dies first time starting it.then almost started on the second but died then started on the thrid time but the idle bounced around alot(between 400 and 1300 rpm0 then stablized. Does that sound like throttle body and/or egr? let me know what you think. also what is the average price of the 60000 mile maitenence?

thanks for the info...did it again tonight. starts and dies first time starting it.then almost started on the second but died then started on the thrid time but the idle bounced around alot(between 400 and 1300 rpm0 then stablized. Does that sound like throttle body and/or egr? let me know what you think. also what is the average price of the 60000 mile maitenence?

I may be wrong, but did you check the intake manifold gasket. These symptoms are similar to what happened to me. I had the gaskets changed and it fixed the problem.

check engine light came on today...went to autozone and read the code and it was p0101(maf or vaf ckt range/perf) Does this sound like the syptoms of a leaky intake mainfold gasket?

check engine light came on today...went to autozone and read the code and it was p0101(maf or vaf ckt range/perf) Does this sound like the syptoms of a leaky intake mainfold gasket?

I can not remember the codes I was getting when I had my IMG changed. However, the codes I was getting was leading my mechanic to look at many things.

I ended up replacing the fuel and air filter, cleaning the EGR and the throttle body. I also did new spark plugs. All this cost me close to $600 and when I went to pick it up the mechanic said all was well and it was running strong. The second I got in the Rodeo and started it I knew it was not right. On the way home the CEL went back on.

Took it back the next day and the mechanic told me I had a bad spark plug. I did not buy this at all, but I played along. Picked it up and still bad. Took it back a few days later and after investigating on the web what might be wrong. A lot of people suggested the IMG, so when I went back I mentioned it. The mechanic said that it wasn't really giving any codes to suggest it, but he would give it a shot. An hour later they called and said that was the problem. I got a break on the price since it took so long for them to figure out.

Like I said, it is a known problem, so it is a good place to look at on these vehicles. It may not be your problem, but it does have characteritics of a bad gasket(s), it is worth a shot. If this is not your problem it will at least eliminate it as a possibilty.

All the stuff I had done was expensive, but it probably was due soon anyway. I would have done it myself for a lot cheeper, if I had more time.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Marc

noticed some bogging out(the car will hesitate then surge) but otherwise seems fine.

In your reply you mentioned you had the IMG replaced. What is the IMG ?

I just bought a 1999 Rodeo (86k) for my son and had some work done to smooth out the idle. Over the weekend the check engine light came on but the car runs the same and idles fine. I been reading other entries where the car would not idle at all but not the case here. Are there other reasons for the light to come on?
Can I reset the CEL (How do I do this?) first or should I take it to autozone foe a code read.

I will add more to this when I have the paperwork from the initial work done.

What is the IMG ?

IMG stands for Intake Mainfold Gasket.

Are there other reasons for the light to come on?

Yes. You can look here (http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszuobd2.shtml) for a list of OBD2 codes that will set the CEL. It is very common for a loose gas cap to set a P1440 (Evap system malfunction) code.

Can I reset the CEL (How do I do this?) first or should I take it to autozone foe a code read.

You most certainly can reset the CEL. This can be done by either disconnecting the battery for a few minutes or pulling the 15A ECM fuse in the engine compartment fuse/relay box. I wouldn't however recommend doing this before getting the codes read as it can kind of set your troubleshooting efforts back.

thanks for the info...did it again tonight. starts and dies first time starting it.then almost started on the second but died then started on the thrid time but the idle bounced around alot(between 400 and 1300 rpm0 then stablized. Does that sound like throttle body and/or egr? let me know what you think. also what is the average price of the 60000 mile maitenence?

I have a 93 V6. If your 99 is similar to mine, then you should be able to check for a intake manifold vacuum leak by hooking a vacuum gauge to the MAP sensor hose. With the engine at idle, I was getting around 20" of vacuum and when I revved the engine up the vacuum would go down. Not exactly sure how many inches of vacuum you should have without any leaks though.

Another method that I have read about on this site is to spray carb cleaner or something around the intake manifold and listen for changes. It probably works (haven't tried it), but I didn't like the idea of spraying flammable stuff around a running engine.

As far as 60,000 mile maintenance. From what I have read in manuals and on this site, one thing you should do at 60K is change your timing belt. While doing that you will probably want to have the water pump replaced too.

I have a 99 v6 rodeo with 123000 miles on it. at first it had high ideling at over 2000 rpm after we took it to the shop and they did nothing to it?? It barley idled and would sometimes die. Then it went back and forth between ideling too high and too low. The code read at the shop was p0101. He said the maf sensor tested fine and reccomended replacing the map sensor (60 dollars at autozone) so we did. It did nothing. We cleaned our k&N air filter, no result. We cleaned the erg valve and relaced the pvc valve. Nothing. We replace the IMG. Still nothing. Our car is not starting unless we two step (one foot on gas and one one the brake) any suggestions?????????

my o3 rodeo is still in the shop after a week. I put a whole tank of gas in my truck and the next morning my truck would crank but not turn over. the dealer changed the fuel pump and still nothing. they hink it's the computer system. whta could it be. I 've only had the truck for 5 months.

Navet: try cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve. Those are symptoms of it not working (as well as symptoms of a bad IMG, though you didnt say you were getting any CEL codes).

Tastyme: The ECM is the last place I would go to look for a problem. Its very unusual for them to fail on these vehicles, especially an '03. I would look for a shop that knows what they are doing. Sounds like they are just replacing parts and guessing.

My best is the fuel pressure regulator. See the FAQ's for more information.

they hink it's the computer system.

Classic.

. . .Our car is not starting unless we two step (one foot on gas and one one the brake) any suggestions?????????

this just caught my eye; navet374 posted this a couple of weeks ago, so here's hoping he's still here...

wha.....? navet374, is this sentence correct or a typo? you can't start it unless you use both the brake and gas pedals are used at the same time?
:screwy:
if you do mean start (and not run as when coming to a stop), then i'd have to look at electrical for at least part of the problem. . .that's the only contribution i can fathom that putting the brake on has -- although as i type this, putting the brake on would also impact the vacuum system, so maybe that's another clue.

on the other hand if you've already got this figured out, will you clue us in?
thanks

Metalhead:
Did you take a look at the IAC valve yet? It sits in front of the TB and takes less than a minute to remove with a screwdriver.

We have had the same problem. We replaced the the intake manifold gasket , did not help, we replaced the pcv, cleaned the erg valve, replaced the map sensor did not help. We cleaned the MAF sensor no help. We cleaned the IACV valve and it started again but after a few weeks it died. We just replaced the iacv valve with a new one from Auto zone 42 dollars and it runs after just cranking. It is on top of the trottle body and it was pretty easy to clean with carb cleaner and it was easy to replace.