Keyless remote problems on '97 LSS
dynamic88
03-28-2005, 11:16 PM
The keyless remote for my '97 LSS has become sometimey. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it just beeps the horn and flashes the lights but doesn't unlock the car. I'm considering getting a replacement remote on eBay. Do you think the problem is more likely in the remote or in the car's keyless entry system?
Related to that, if I do get a new remote, how do I program it to work with my car?
Related to that, if I do get a new remote, how do I program it to work with my car?
Treez
04-16-2005, 03:51 PM
Related to that, if I do get a new remote, how do I program it to work with my car?
same as the Buick.........
1997 to 1999 Buick Lesabres
Important
Before entering the programming mode, verify possession of all the
transmitters you will be using on the vehicle. Once you program the
transmitter, the memory erases. The other transmitters will not be
functional until you program the transmitters again. You may program
up to 4 transmitters.
Perform the following procedure when adding new transmitters or
replacing failed transmitters:
1 Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2 Use a fused jumper wire in order to jumper the DLC terminal 8
(BLK/WHT) to terminal 4 (BLK).
3 Close all of the doors.
4 Turn the ignition switch ON. The doors will cycle to lock.
5 Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button on one
transmitter. After a 30 second delay the doors will lock and unlock.
Important
Do not turn the ignition OFF or the first transmitter will become inoperative.
6 In order to program extra transmitters, repeat step 5.
Disconnect the fused jumper wire from the DLC.
same as the Buick.........
1997 to 1999 Buick Lesabres
Important
Before entering the programming mode, verify possession of all the
transmitters you will be using on the vehicle. Once you program the
transmitter, the memory erases. The other transmitters will not be
functional until you program the transmitters again. You may program
up to 4 transmitters.
Perform the following procedure when adding new transmitters or
replacing failed transmitters:
1 Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2 Use a fused jumper wire in order to jumper the DLC terminal 8
(BLK/WHT) to terminal 4 (BLK).
3 Close all of the doors.
4 Turn the ignition switch ON. The doors will cycle to lock.
5 Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button on one
transmitter. After a 30 second delay the doors will lock and unlock.
Important
Do not turn the ignition OFF or the first transmitter will become inoperative.
6 In order to program extra transmitters, repeat step 5.
Disconnect the fused jumper wire from the DLC.
dynamic88
04-17-2005, 10:51 PM
The procedure worked perfectly. Thanks!
For the benefit of others who use this procedure, I will offer this addendum:
The numbering sequence for the terminals on the DLC is somewhat counter-intuitive in that they run from right to left. There are two banks of eight terminals for a total of 16 The lower numbers (1-8) are closer to the brake pedal and the higher numbers (9-16) are closer to the steering wheel (see diagram below):
steering wheel
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9
--------------------------------
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
brake pedal
Because of where it's positioned on the underside of the dashboard, the DLC is sort of hard to see and you can't see the numbers molded into the plastic block unless you take it loose from the plastic panel to which it is attached. If you make your fused jumper wire with single-strand doorbell wire (I just soldered it to a flat 3-amp automotive fuse), it will be rigid enough to stay in the terminals. I figured out after the fact that the minor disassembly I did would not have been necessary (except for reading the numbers on the DLC block) had I placed a hand mirror on the floorboard below the DLC. A magnifying mirror would have been ideal. As it was, it took me about 15 minutes to get the jumper hooked up and about 2 minutes to program three remotes.
For the benefit of others who use this procedure, I will offer this addendum:
The numbering sequence for the terminals on the DLC is somewhat counter-intuitive in that they run from right to left. There are two banks of eight terminals for a total of 16 The lower numbers (1-8) are closer to the brake pedal and the higher numbers (9-16) are closer to the steering wheel (see diagram below):
steering wheel
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9
--------------------------------
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
brake pedal
Because of where it's positioned on the underside of the dashboard, the DLC is sort of hard to see and you can't see the numbers molded into the plastic block unless you take it loose from the plastic panel to which it is attached. If you make your fused jumper wire with single-strand doorbell wire (I just soldered it to a flat 3-amp automotive fuse), it will be rigid enough to stay in the terminals. I figured out after the fact that the minor disassembly I did would not have been necessary (except for reading the numbers on the DLC block) had I placed a hand mirror on the floorboard below the DLC. A magnifying mirror would have been ideal. As it was, it took me about 15 minutes to get the jumper hooked up and about 2 minutes to program three remotes.
Treez
04-18-2005, 08:04 PM
The procedure worked perfectly. Thanks!
As it was, it took me about 15 minutes to get the jumper hooked up and about 2 minutes to program three remotes.
I used 2 paperclips pushed into #4 and #8 slots then test leads from them to a 3 amp fuse.
Took about 5 minutes total.
As it was, it took me about 15 minutes to get the jumper hooked up and about 2 minutes to program three remotes.
I used 2 paperclips pushed into #4 and #8 slots then test leads from them to a 3 amp fuse.
Took about 5 minutes total.
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