302 motor

i have a stock mexican 302 block with intake and carb. what i wanted to know is can i take the heads from this motor and put them on a brand new 5.0 High output 302 with a roller cam? or do the 302 HO need diff heads?

i have a stock mexican 302 block with intake and carb. what i wanted to know is can i take the heads from this motor and put them on a brand new 5.0 High output 302 with a roller cam? or do the 302 HO need diff heads?


The heads are interchangeable as well as all the parts between the two, and every other version of the 302 engine that's been in a fox body.

Why bother, those heads suck!

Why bother, those heads suck!
Exactly. (Im gunna have 2 side with skyline) All heads are interchangeable though in fox bodys.

Why bother, those heads suck!

Yup they do.......

because i'mgetting the whole motor for free but with out the heads but i have a 302 block with heads and i was just going to pull them and put them on the new motor for now. would i be better off getting a set of heads from a 5.0 mustang or is the FI going to not line up?

because i'mgetting the whole motor for free but with out the heads but i have a 302 block with heads and i was just going to pull them and put them on the new motor for now. would i be better off getting a set of heads from a 5.0 mustang or is the FI going to not line up?

Yes, the 5.0 heads are better, that is what I was getting at.

But, how do you know what state 302 heads are in? Are they fresh?

well its a mexican block. i don't have the car yet but i should have it by this weekend. the motors bone stock and i think it has a intake and carb. i just wanted to pull the old block out and out the new one in and change the heads later. so your saying that the 302 HO heads are better then just plain old 302 heads?

well its a mexican block. i don't have the car yet but i should have it by this weekend. the motors bone stock and i think it has a intake and carb. i just wanted to pull the old block out and out the new one in and change the heads later. so your saying that the 302 HO heads are better then just plain old 302 heads?

Mexican blocks are good, the heads are still the same old crappy ones on all of the 302s from back then.

Mexican blocks are good, the heads are still the same old crappy ones on all of the 302s from back then.

So who makes a really good block then? Ive only heard good things about Dart and Ford Racing blocks. Boosted mentioned some others but which ones are the best?

So who makes a really good block then? Ive only heard good things about Dart and Ford Racing blocks. Boosted mentioned some others but which ones are the best?

Read what Boosted posted again, he tells you what ones are very good. I like the A4s myself, or if you can find a Boss 302 block. The only way I would in the market for one of the aftermarket blocks is if I was building a car for the 8s or quicker.

For street car a Mexican block is a cheap way of going, with a little more security and piece of mind for a 500hp.

Hell, look at my car. S-trim with crappy GT-40 heads, and I am fighting for traction in street trim with a stock block and hyper pistons. Don't get wrapped up in the high dollar stuff, you can make a plenty fast street car with have to go over 500hp.

You guys always think about power, that is not really where you need to look. Rear up on suspension, there is where you are going to make or break a car.

so whats the diff between the 302 HO and the plain 302? is it the cam?

what was the 1/4 mile time of a stock 71 mustang? maybe with the carb tuned good. is there some where i can look up the time it ran?

I feel the Dart Sportsman is an awesome way to go for a fast streetcar. You can bolt up stock 302 oil pumps, stock 302 hydraulic roller lifters without any mods, stock 302 cams, etc. A4's and Bosses are great alternatives, but the only thing that makes them a less than viable alternative ends up being availability. With the cost of the Dart Sportsman's being under 2000 shipped they start to look very affordable as well, when you compare it to the average Boss or A4 block that needs 500 dollars in machining to get it ready for use.

Read what Boosted posted again, he tells you what ones are very good. I like the A4s myself, or if you can find a Boss 302 block. The only way I would in the market for one of the aftermarket blocks is if I was building a car for the 8s or quicker.

For street car a Mexican block is a cheap way of going, with a little more security and piece of mind for a 500hp.

Hell, look at my car. S-trim with crappy GT-40 heads, and I am fighting for traction in street trim with a stock block and hyper pistons. Don't get wrapped up in the high dollar stuff, you can make a plenty fast street car with have to go over 500hp.

You guys always think about power, that is not really where you need to look. Rear up on suspension, there is where you are going to make or break a car.

Oh, i know about power, and im always hungry for it. i know it doesnt take much to build a fast car, its just where you throw the money you have. Its about weight also, since i beat all kinds of people because i only weigh 2900lbs. when they are usually a good 300-400lbs heavier. i love fox bodys!

I feel the Dart Sportsman is an awesome way to go for a fast streetcar. You can bolt up stock 302 oil pumps, stock 302 hydraulic roller lifters without any mods, stock 302 cams, etc. A4's and Bosses are great alternatives, but the only thing that makes them a less than viable alternative ends up being availability. With the cost of the Dart Sportsman's being under 2000 shipped they start to look very affordable as well, when you compare it to the average Boss or A4 block that needs 500 dollars in machining to get it ready for use.

Cool, i didnt know that. Machining prices have eatin me alive b4 and i know it will do it again someday. The HO cam (which changes the firing order to a 351W) is the difference. Even when you dont have an HO, i wouldnt worry about it because you could just install your own cam, and have more power and the same FO as an HO.

how would i be able to tell who made the motor? its a crate motor with no heads but has pistons and rods ect. its set up so all you have to do is slap a set of heads and intake and your good to go.ever heard of a set up like that?

how would i be able to tell who made the motor? its a crate motor with no heads but has pistons and rods ect. its set up so all you have to do is slap a set of heads and intake and your good to go.ever heard of a set up like that?

You mean a short block? I bet the crate motor is made by Ford Racing and if its just a direct replacement stock motor its prob from mexico. but if its a FR its american.

ok what kind of performance parts my be in it? where would i look on it to see who makes it?

ok what kind of performance parts my be in it? where would i look on it to see who makes it?

You should look this up in the ford racing catalouge. I seriously havent looked into it so I dont know if its a sports block or what. The pistons should be a little higher compression than stock, and i think it has a high performance timing chain. I have no idea about the crank.

i got the car today and its all stock except it has a cobra intake on it. it runs good. the only thing is that when you first start it up if its hot its fine but if its been sitting or cold it seems like the idles not right. you have to hold your foot on the gas untill it starts to warm up other wise it will stall. once its warmed upo it runs great. it has a 2bbl carb on it which came with the car. the other thing i wanted to know is what should the rockers be set at. i know that if there off then it can affect performance.

i got the car today and its all stock except it has a cobra intake on it. it runs good. the only thing is that when you first start it up if its hot its fine but if its been sitting or cold it seems like the idles not right. you have to hold your foot on the gas untill it starts to warm up other wise it will stall. once its warmed upo it runs great. it has a 2bbl carb on it which came with the car. the other thing i wanted to know is what should the rockers be set at. i know that if there off then it can affect performance.

Sounds like you have a choke problem. Check the wiring. Next step is getting a four barrel manifold and a holley double pumper. The carb might need a rebuild also, but i suggest getting a new one since u wont keep it....(bad gas mileage, u can get a edelbrock 4 barrel and get the same-just about) and the power sucks. The rockers should just be hand tight any tighter and they will explode the motor....lol jk they should be torqued, check your manual. I just did them 2 grunt power for a short time until i got my rollers. If there is a lot of play in the rockers you would definately know. It could effect performance, but not by much if there is no valvetrain noise. unless they are worn out of course. It could be time for some new lifters also. Might as well rebuild the engine at that! Have fun, and drive it like u stole it!

well i'm trying to get the old 2 bbl carb to run right for know and this summer i'll see about getting 4bbl. also what does the A/T kick down do? i don't think mines hooked up but it drives ok. theres a rod that comes out of the shifter on the trans that can move but nothings hooked up. then theres a leaver on the carb thats not hooked up to anything but moves when you press the gas. it has a set screw on it. if i give the car more gas it smothes out but as soon as i let off it dies.. any ideas?

well i'm trying to get the old 2 bbl carb to run right for know and this summer i'll see about getting 4bbl. also what does the A/T kick down do? i don't think mines hooked up but it drives ok. theres a rod that comes out of the shifter on the trans that can move but nothings hooked up. then theres a leaver on the carb thats not hooked up to anything but moves when you press the gas. it has a set screw on it. if i give the car more gas it smothes out but as soon as i let off it dies.. any ideas?

Thats the kickdown. That only really matters if u put it 2 the floor and it wont kick down that would be the problem. Just imagine if your driving with a manual tranny cruising. and you downshift to take off right? well without the kickdown working, it would be just like u left it in the same gear without downshifting and put ur foot into it. Hook it up just to eliminate another problem. You might need your carb rebuilt by now unless it has been. Always better to be safe.

ok i'll look into getting the line for the kick down. its not there so i'll have to find it. i'm still playing with it but i thyink your right. the car sat for 6 years and then the carb was pulled apart and the gas drained out and then put back togather. it wasn't rebuilt. it sat for a whole year this year as well so it most likely needs to be done.

ok i'll look into getting the line for the kick down. its not there so i'll have to find it. i'm still playing with it but i thyink your right. the car sat for 6 years and then the carb was pulled apart and the gas drained out and then put back togather. it wasn't rebuilt. it sat for a whole year this year as well so it most likely needs to be done.

its a pretty easy fix, its just that most people are too lazy to do it. Even if you didnt do it yourself it wouldnt cost that much to have it done.

i might just end up getting another carb because it is ony a 2bbl and i'm looking into maybe getting the autolite 4100 which came on the 302 and should bolt up. i have a spacer on the intake now that allows the 2bbl to be hooked up to the 4bbl intake. i'd still like to get the fast idel to work though.

i might just end up getting another carb because it is ony a 2bbl and i'm looking into maybe getting the autolite 4100 which came on the 302 and should bolt up. i have a spacer on the intake now that allows the 2bbl to be hooked up to the 4bbl intake. i'd still like to get the fast idel to work though.

Y not just buy a edelbrock 600cfm then? If it will bolt right up, you will love the difference. If not a holley works great.

how much does one cost. i know i can get the 4100 prttey cheap and they are supposed to have 750 cfm. so they are decent and if you tune them right they are supposed to be very good.

ok. last night i played with the carb and i set the idle mix screws both 5 turns out. now it runs real smooth and doens't try to stall when i put it in gear. i talked to a guy who said that the reason why the engine dies and then recovers is because of the way the distributor is set up. he said that the weights on the distributor will cause this that they can't go out far enough. it only does this if you stomp the gas. other wise if you take it easy it revs up fine.

ok. last night i played with the carb and i set the idle mix screws both 5 turns out. now it runs real smooth and doens't try to stall when i put it in gear. i talked to a guy who said that the reason why the engine dies and then recovers is because of the way the distributor is set up. he said that the weights on the distributor will cause this that they can't go out far enough. it only does this if you stomp the gas. other wise if you take it easy it revs up fine.

thats good. Time for MSD ignition! You can get the new edelbrock 600s for around $200. I wouldnt go 2 much higher unless mods are done to improve flow.

just today i rebuilt the carb and even with that it was better but still ran a little rough. i was looking over everything to make sure i didn't mis anything and then i found a conecter on the back of the intake that had one plug on it,one rubber hose one it and a open port that if i put my finger over made the engine run smooth. i sealed it up and now it runs very well. i still think the carb kit helped. some of the gaskets were loose and the one rubber was starting to shrink.

just today i rebuilt the carb and even with that it was better but still ran a little rough. i was looking over everything to make sure i didn't mis anything and then i found a conecter on the back of the intake that had one plug on it,one rubber hose one it and a open port that if i put my finger over made the engine run smooth. i sealed it up and now it runs very well. i still think the carb kit helped. some of the gaskets were loose and the one rubber was starting to shrink.

U had a vacuum leak, maybe at the PCV valve. Good work though thats what it needed.

i checked the PVC and its good on the hose but where it goes onto the oil cap its a little loose. so i have to see about getting a oil cap. or i might just leave it like that until i get my valve covers. if it leaks its very small.

i checked the PVC and its good on the hose but where it goes onto the oil cap its a little loose. so i have to see about getting a oil cap. or i might just leave it like that until i get my valve covers. if it leaks its very small.

Sometimes to check if your piston rings are bad, take the valve cover breather (or cap) off and if smoke comes out when its running, your engine could be pretty tired. The hose being loose on the cap shouldnt do much. Just everything that attaches to the carb.