1998 Camry Front Brake Pulsation

I have a 98 Camry and have had since it was new. After about 8 months or so, the brakes started to pulsate. I took it back to the dealer and they turned the rotors. They told me at that time that they had been having some issues with this problem.

This took care of the problem for awhile but it returned soon after. I just drove the car that way since the warranty was out.

Last year I had new pads put on at a shop. Not original Toyota pads. They made all kinds of noise. I finally went to the dealer, got Toyota pads and took them back for the shop to replace them.

After time, I continue to have the pulsation.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? When I called the dealer the other day to ask them about this, they said that I needed to bring it in (of course) and that there was probably a hydraulic problem, that the rotors (brakes) shouldn't do the pulsations so often.

I was wondering that if you have had this problem, if replacing the rotors with a different brand would/have helped.

Any help or advice would be appreciated!

Thanks!

I know very little about Toyota rotors/brakes.

I do know ABS braking systems pulsate. I find them useless. Insurance companies say ABS braking causes more wrecks than they avoid.

Rotors can warp with a single very hard and long braking incident, or many hard or long braking incidents (such as going down a long hill and continous braking). Both could cause a warped disk with a feeling of pulsating in the pedal. Heavy duty rotors might help. But, I haven't heard of this being a common problem for the 98. My MIL's 98 has never had that problem in all it's 76,000 miles. Is the pulsation every time you put on the brakes, even with light pressure? Or, do you feel it only with hard braking?

As far as ABS, yes they pulsate (very rapidly when engaged). But only when a wheel(s) looses traction during braking. Mostly you'd never know you had ABS unless you start to slide when putting on the brakes. They allow you to keep steering and maintain control of the car in slippery conditions. And, they work very well. After using them, I wouldn't buy a car without them. My insurance company reduces my insurance rate because of the reduced accidents in vehicles with ABS.

From the symptoms mjkoz posted, it doesn't sound like an ABS problem, unless you also hear a kind of rapidly pulsating noise that occurs at the same time. The pedal also becomes firm when the ABS engages.

Rotors can warp with a single very hard and long braking incident, or many hard or long braking incidents (such as going down a long hill and continous braking). Both could cause a warped disk with a feeling of pulsating in the pedal. Heavy duty rotors might help. But, I haven't heard of this being a common problem for the 98. My MIL's 98 has never had that problem in all it's 76,000 miles. Is the pulsation every time you put on the brakes, even with light pressure? Or, do you feel it only with hard braking?

As far as ABS, yes they pulsate (very rapidly when engaged). But only when a wheel(s) looses traction during braking. Mostly you'd never know you had ABS unless you start to slide when putting on the brakes. They allow you to keep steering and maintain control of the car in slippery conditions. And, they work very well. After using them, I wouldn't buy a car without them. My insurance company reduces my insurance rate because of the reduced accidents in vehicles with ABS.

From the symptoms mjkoz posted, it doesn't sound like an ABS problem, unless you also hear a kind of rapidly pulsating noise that occurs at the same time. The pedal also becomes firm when the ABS engages.

Thank you for your input. I know it's not from braking down hills as I live in FL!! :) I don't recall any really 'hard' braking either. The pulsing is there almost all the time. I do seem to notice it more after just a couple of stops which tells me that it's related to heat. But even cold, I can still feel it slightly.

Understand your comments about the ABS and have to agree. If you can think of anything else, I'd appreciate your suggestions/comments. I will probably take it in to have the rotors turned again and keep a better eye out for hard braking, etc.

Thanks again.

I have had the problem with rotors warping and pulsating on both my 94 and 98 Camry's. About a year ago I put on new aftermarket rotors and a set of Raybestos full ceramic pads on my 98. So far the pulsation hasn't returned. The pulsation is caused by the heat generated from normal braking. Eventually, most disc brake systems will experience some warping from this heat. One thing I have tried to do to eliminate this (or delay it) as much as possible is when after a long hard braking situation when I am stopped at a stoplight, I put the car in neutral while waiting for the light to turn green. This way, the extremely hot pads are not left in contact with the rotor in just that one spot on the rotor. I wouldn't do this too often since brakes are cheap to replace when compared to replacing the transmission.

Also, if your rotors have already been cut twice, there may not be enough material left to cut them again. The technician will check them with a brake rotor micrometer to determine if there is enough meat left to cut them.

Replacing pads and rotors is not that difficult of a job. You might want to get a copy of a manual and read through the section on brakes to see if you feel comfortable tackling this job yourself. Many libraries have the Chiltons and/or Haynes manuals if you want to take a look at a manual for free.

Good luck with the problem.

Mike

I have had the problem with rotors warping and pulsating on both my 94 and 98 Camry's. About a year ago I put on new aftermarket rotors and a set of Raybestos full ceramic pads on my 98. So far the pulsation hasn't returned. The pulsation is caused by the heat generated from normal braking. Eventually, most disc brake systems will experience some warping from this heat. One thing I have tried to do to eliminate this (or delay it) as much as possible is when after a long hard braking situation when I am stopped at a stoplight, I put the car in neutral while waiting for the light to turn green. This way, the extremely hot pads are not left in contact with the rotor in just that one spot on the rotor. I wouldn't do this too often since brakes are cheap to replace when compared to replacing the transmission.

Also, if your rotors have already been cut twice, there may not be enough material left to cut them again. The technician will check them with a brake rotor micrometer to determine if there is enough meat left to cut them.

Replacing pads and rotors is not that difficult of a job. You might want to get a copy of a manual and read through the section on brakes to see if you feel comfortable tackling this job yourself. Many libraries have the Chiltons and/or Haynes manuals if you want to take a look at a manual for free.

Good luck with the problem.

Mike

Thanks Mike! What you said about the aftermarket rotors, etc. is more of the direction I've been thinking.

I've been looking around and they sure do vary in pricing. Auto Zone has them for about $30 a piece. And I've looked online and found some drilled and/or slotted ones with a coating for about $100 a pair. Any knowledge on those?

Thanks again for all your info, Mike!!!

I know very little about Toyota rotors/brakes.

I do know ABS braking systems pulsate. I find them useless. Insurance companies say ABS braking causes more wrecks than they avoid.
ABS brakes do pulsate when they are working. That is what they do. You don't pump ABS Brakes, you hold the pedal down until you don't have to brake anymore. The people that pump ABS brakes get into accidents because they don't know how to drive with them. Maybe they should read the owners manual.They apply pressure to the pads and release many times per second so they brakes DO NOT lock up and put you into an UNCONTROLLED skid, but so you can steer around whatever you are braking for. If they are so useless why is it that ABS is the most safety option that has turned into standard equipment in most cars in production today and ALL insurance companies give a discount if you have them? Because they cause less accidents by avoiding them and if there is an collision , it is ussually at a lower speed because of the braking system.

(I do not drive fast so ABS is worthless to me. The insurance statement was a quote from an insurance company, I did not make it up)

Drilled rotors are for performance, for those who drive more aggressive. Slotted rotors are for performance also but will not crack as easy as drilled. Regular rotors will give you longer pad life.

mjkoz,

I would have to agree with rum runner on this. Stick with conventional rotors for everyday driving.

I would continue to call around to various auto parts stores in your area for better prices. I got mine for $19 a piece at an independent shop, but of course now they are out of business.

Mike

Thanks again, Mike. I was planning on checking around. Seems like there are fewer and fewer auto parts stores as the years go by though. Wonder if this is a trend?

Thanks for the lesson rum runner. I was curious as to why they drilled and / or slotted the rotors. Seems to me that they would wear the pads out a lot faster than the traditional ones too.