1990 Timing

This may be a stupid question, but how do i time my 1990 2.2L Corsica?

This may be a stupid question, but how do i time my 1990 2.2L Corsica?

I hope someone answers soon...What type problem are you having? I have one here that I checked the spark plugs and all 4 are firing. However when the motor trys to start it backfires thru the TBI. The owner told me that he had been having some problems but if it would backfire 2 times then it would start... Doesn't do that now. The Haynes manual I have doesn't show timing info about the 2.2L I found out this morning there is no timing mark (Unless it is under the timing chain cover). I get a blue strong spark at all 4 plugs but the engine won't start.

I can be driving down the road, and when i stop accelerating and just keep the car at a steady speed it chuggs REALLY hard... like, to the point where the whole car rocks back and forth... i was thinking maybe i have a missfiring cylinder... Once i accelerate again it goes away... I put new spark plugs in and ran some sea foam to clean it out but it's still there...

I have a GM service manual that covers 1991 Corsicas, and it does cover the 2.2, however, it only lists timing via the timing sprockets and chain. Nothing about a fully assembled engine. I don't think you can adjust timing the same way as my old Blazer which has a distributor. According to the manual, there are marks on the cam sprocket, crank sprocket, and tabs on tensioner that all have to match when assembled. The marks should be "facing" each other and the tab in the center. If you are having problems running would suggest you replace crank sensor as it "times" the spark to hit when each cylinder is ready. It is at base of engine near coils. very common items to go bad on Corsicas.
The 91 and 90 are identical I might add. the crank sensor, ignition module/coilpacks and various other sensors do the work of making your engine run. The crank sensor was the first to go on my 91. Won't run if bad.

When the car acts up when slowing down, does it ever trigger the check engine light? Could be MAP sensor, or even a TCC solenoid acting up. The TCC is very common. What happens is that the car runs OK when cool. When run for a while it shakes and jerks like an old standard shift car in high gear going slow. It stalls when in gear and stopped. Starts up OK but then stalls again when put into gear until it cools a little. Dirty EGR valve, MAP sensor, and dirty/clogged intake assy will cause bad misses poor performance, just to name a few. would be best if you had a trouble code to start looking for answers. Have you had the car checked for codes? Have you ever cleaned the intake area? Might want to start simple, and d/c plugs for cracks etc. The ignition modue, which works with your crank sensor to produce timed spark can also cause problems, but usually weak spark.
The Corsica that won't start, sounds like the crank sensor to me.

Could be your TCC selonoid about to give out. My car would stall after going from high speed to low. Got the Haynes manual and look at troubleshooting, and came across the TCC problem that seem related to my situation. I haven't replaced the TCC yet, but did unplug the sensor to it. It's below the air filter. A blue plug in. Car hasn't stalled since, but good for city driving.

m f

The timing is NOT adjustable it is all computer controlled.
It sounds to me like a bad plug wire, if you pull off the wire from the spark plug look inside to see if there is rust or a black powder inside. if there is the wire is bad and will need replaced. Also check the coil end of the wire, but be sure to check them 1 at a time so you don't get them mixed up.

The car doesn't stall at all. Acctually it runs quite well when i accelerate. It's only when I try to keep the engine at a steady speed does it start to chug. It hasn't died on me yet but the chugging has gotten worse.

however, it only lists timing via the timing sprockets and chain. Nothing about a fully assembled engine. I don't think you can adjust timing the same way as my old Blazer which has a distributor. Those are two COMPLETELY different types of timing. Twisting the distributor changes the IGNITION timing. Messing around with the cam sprockets and timing chain will change your CAM timing. Adjusting the ignition timing changes what time the spark will reach each cylinder. Adjusting cam timing is too difficult to explain, but if you get it too far off the valves wont close before the piston reaches the top of its stroke and they will crash together, essentially destroying the engine.


As for the problem at hand, give it new plug wires, and have the coil packs and ignition module tested. Try running some feul system cleaner in it as well. And it cant hurt to throw on a new PCV valve and air filter while your at it.

Those are two COMPLETELY different types of timing. Twisting the distributor changes the IGNITION timing. Messing around with the cam sprockets and timing chain will change your CAM timing. Adjusting the ignition timing changes what time the spark will reach each cylinder. Adjusting cam timing is too difficult to explain, but if you get it too far off the valves wont close before the piston reaches the top of its stroke and they will crash together, essentially destroying the engine.


As for the problem at hand, give it new plug wires, and have the coil packs and ignition module tested. Try running some feul system cleaner in it as well. And it cant hurt to throw on a new PCV valve and air filter while your at it.
Quite right. I did not explain that very well,or at all i guess, as I was simply explaining the only 'timing" even mentioned was front gear assy, which should never be messed with unless doing a rebuild etc. No way to time this type of vehicle unless you could somehow adjust the computer settings which is not likely going to help either person (there are two different problems mentioned here, with another member adding they were having start issues.) I only mentioned the settings as i did not know if perhaps the second person had perhaps put an engine back together etc. and possibly needed help. If not, then I think the crank sensor is bad, but perhaps it would be best for him to start a new thread on this problem...
If the engine is NOT stalling out, then most likely a firing problem. You can get the ignition module checked free at most auto parts stores such as NAPA or Advance. the coils I am pretty sure you will have to test with an ohm meter. Does the car idle OK??? Have you checked for any possible trouble codes, such as O2 sensor, MAP sensor etc???