Just had 4.0L motor rebuilt and installed but it only turns over - it will not actually start. The battery is pretty much dead so I've been trying to start it after it's been jumped for a period of time. I can hear the fuel pump when I first turn the key. I tested the spark and it seems to stop at the coil. Naturally I bought a new coil thinking that was it but the problem persists. Spark stops after the coil still. Also where does the brown wire with the white stripe comming from the coil connect to? Every time I try to start it the battery dies and the lights flash as if the alarm is going off, but there is no horn. Is it possible that the alarm is preventing the motor from starting? Is it possible to bypass this feature of the alarm system? I also thought that the Crank Position Sensor might have died during removal or reinstallation of the engine since I did it myself in the driveway (slightly less of a redneck). Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. My brain exploded after working on this for 2 days.

Just had 4.0L motor rebuilt and installed but it only turns over - it will not actually start. The battery is pretty much dead so I've been trying to start it after it's been jumped for a period of time. I can hear the fuel pump when I first turn the key. I tested the spark and it seems to stop at the coil. Naturally I bought a new coil thinking that was it but the problem persists. Spark stops after the coil still. Also where does the brown wire with the white stripe comming from the coil connect to? Every time I try to start it the battery dies and the lights flash as if the alarm is going off, but there is no horn. Is it possible that the alarm is preventing the motor from starting? Is it possible to bypass this feature of the alarm system? I also thought that the Crank Position Sensor might have died during removal or reinstallation of the engine since I did it myself in the driveway (slightly less of a redneck). Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. My brain exploded after working on this for 2 days.


If you are losing spark after coil, check your coil wire, cap, rotor. possible bad camshaft position sensor in side distributor. Dale

Tried a new coil and all the plug wires are new, cam shaft position sensor which is in the transmission bell housing. Not sure what you're talking about inside the distributor. Also the cap and rotor are new but the spark isn't getting there anyway. I'm testing with a test light. Got battery charged to try again. Swapped out relay's for the auto shut down with the one for the fog lights to see if the relay is bad. Is there a way to bypass the relay? Can I just remove it? Thank you very much for the reply.

Tried a new coil and all the plug wires are new, cam shaft position sensor which is in the transmission bell housing. Not sure what you're talking about inside the distributor. Also the cap and rotor are new but the spark isn't getting there anyway. I'm testing with a test light. Got battery charged to try again. Swapped out relay's for the auto shut down with the one for the fog lights to see if the relay is bad. Is there a way to bypass the relay? Can I just remove it? Thank you very much for the reply.


THE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR IS LOCATED IN SIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR THE ONE ON THE BELLHOUSING IS THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. IF YOU GETTING SPARK TO THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP BUT NOT TO SPARK PLUGS THE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ( INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR) IS PROBABLY BAD. IF THIS IS A 4.0 THE DISTRIBUTOR HAS TO BE PULLED TO REPLACE. ITS JUST AS CHEAP TO JUST REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR. HOPE THIS HELPS DALE CHECK REPLACEMENT DISTRIBUTOR CAREFULLY

Just replaced the camshaft position sensor now and there is still no spark comming out of the coil. I didn't have to remove the whole distributor though. It's the flat black thing with a 2 prong connector comming out right? The parts stores didn't have a listing for that but after I brought it in they knew what I was talking about. As for the coil, only one wire going into the coil has power and the other has no power. Is that correct? I still can't come up with a good wiring diagram - tried Haynes and Chilton manuals and internet. Can you tell me which coil wires go where by color? Thanks again for the reply.

Just replaced the camshaft position sensor now and there is still no spark comming out of the coil. I didn't have to remove the whole distributor though. It's the flat black thing with a 2 prong connector comming out right? The parts stores didn't have a listing for that but after I brought it in they knew what I was talking about. As for the coil, only one wire going into the coil has power and the other has no power. Is that correct? I still can't come up with a good wiring diagram - tried Haynes and Chilton manuals and internet. Can you tell me which coil wires go where by color? Thanks again for the reply.


What wires do you need to know about. If you connnect to the wires that plug into coil the green /gray with test light you should have power for2-3 seconds. Give me a holler at jeepman600@sbcglobal.net That way i can send you info. can't send thru forum dale did you check the ASD relay

I swapped the Auto Shut Down relay with the fog lights relay and it still didn't start. I also tried jumping between the hot port and the other ports where the relay plugs in in an attempt to bypass it. It still didn't do the trick. As for the wires on the coil, where does the brown/white wire go? At least I think it's brown white. I'll have to check again when the sun comes back up. I really appreciate the advice.

I swapped the Auto Shut Down relay with the fog lights relay and it still didn't start. I also tried jumping between the hot port and the other ports where the relay plugs in in an attempt to bypass it. It still didn't do the trick. As for the wires on the coil, where does the brown/white wire go? At least I think it's brown white. I'll have to check again when the sun comes back up. I really appreciate the advice.


ON THE ASD RELAY YOU SHOULD HAVE 12 VOLTS ON 1 WIRE WITH KEY OFF AND ON 2 TERMINALS WITH KEY ON I'LL CHECK ON THE WIRES ARE THEY THE ONES THAT PLUG IN TO THE COIL DALE
jeepman600@sbcglobal.net
on the wires the one should have 12 volts for 2-3 seconds when you turn key on the other is the minus terminal for coil or ground

Check for voltage to the Ignition Coil, check the DARK GREEN/BLACK or DARK GREEN/ORANGE - place one lead of a Digtal Voltmeter into the connector and the other end on a good engine ground (Negative Battery Terminal), and turn the ignition Key to the ON position, you should have battery voltage. If battery voltage is not present then check the ASD relay and the circuits from the Power Distribution Center to the Ignition Coil. DON'T FORGET TO CHECK FUSES FIRST. Also check the ASD Relay control circuit from the relay to the PCM for continuity.

1 more thing... Did the engine ever start after you replaced the Ignition Coil?

Guess I forgot to mention that I checked all the fuses. I'll try the relay voltage tomorrow as described. The engine has not started with the old or with the new ignition coil. It has not started since the motor has been put back into the compartment and assembled. Thanks again for the replies guys.

Does the CHECK ENGINE light come on when you try to start the jeep?

All of the lights on the dash come in while trying to start but they don't stay on. Once I stop trying to start it they all go off again. I think it's just doing the bulb check. What type of scanner can read codes from this jeep? I thought it was OBD1 but my neighbor (auto tech) says it's something else that I've never heard of before. Is there a way to test the PCM?

Tested the ASD circuit where the relay plugs in and you are correct. I do have power on one port w/ key off and on 2 w/ key on. Also, the power does cycle for 2-3 seconds going to the coil while attmpting starting.

Alright, so basically everything's been replaced in the ignition system except for the PCM. I checked online and most part#'s are impossible to get from parts stores and if it is possible then they are special order items and go for around $250 - a $89 core charge. That's not a bad price unless it turns out that it's not the problem and I STILL have to take it to a garage somewhere. Is there any way to test the PCM before I try to go and buy one since it's non-returnable?

Also where does the brown wire with the white stripe comming from the coil connect to?

what do u mean by this, is there a broken wire on the ignition coil? There should be 2 wires coming off of the Ignition Coil they both hook into the big wiring group. is one of them broke?

We removed the distributor and checked the timing again. Then we reassembled everything and it started. We didn't change ANYTHING as far as the timing goes and it cranked right up. Thanks for all the replies and all the help. Definitely learned some new testing techniques for next time.

well good to hear you got it runnin. it was prolly something stupid like the rotor button not being all the way down or the prong was crooked or cam sensor not being seated right. I dunno good luck in the future.

OK so today I decided to start back over from square one. I removed the distributor and all the plugs so that I can turn the engine by hand to line up with the timing mark when the #1 piston is on TDC. Using the Chilton manual I also removed the distributor and tripple checked (this is the 3rd time I've done this procedure) the orientation mark. I then reinserted the distributor and plugs and re-ran all the plug wires in proper order according to the Chilton manual. Nothing at all changed since the first 2 times that I've done this. I turned the key and nothing. I took off a plug wire and stuck my test light (known good test light) in the socket and it was getting nothing while cranking. Stuck test light in wire from coil to distributor and no light as usual. Put the plug wires back on and turned the key and nothing. A friend pushed the throttlebody open to prime it which shouldn't matter at all on this engine and I tried to start it again and guess what? It totally started! It was missing badly but it started. I checked the plug wires again and 2 were crossed. Rough idle problem solved. How unbelievable is that? Can't believe I wasted everybody's time and an entire WEEK screwing with that piece of crap. Not to mention all the money I needlessly squandered on sensors and other components. In conclusion thank you everybody for all your awesome help. I learned a lot of great testing techniques from Dale. Wish there was an explaination for the test light not lighting up during cranking while probing the plug wires. Thanks again all!!! Happy Jeeping...

OK so today I decided to start back over from square one. I removed the distributor and all the plugs so that I can turn the engine by hand to line up with the timing mark when the #1 piston is on TDC. Using the Chilton manual I also removed the distributor and tripple checked (this is the 3rd time I've done this procedure) the orientation mark. I then reinserted the distributor and plugs and re-ran all the plug wires in proper order according to the Chilton manual. Nothing at all changed since the first 2 times that I've done this. I turned the key and nothing. I took off a plug wire and stuck my test light (known good test light) in the socket and it was getting nothing while cranking. Stuck test light in wire from coil to distributor and no light as usual. Put the plug wires back on and turned the key and nothing. A friend pushed the throttlebody open to prime it which shouldn't matter at all on this engine and I tried to start it again and guess what? It totally started! It was missing badly but it started. I checked the plug wires again and 2 were crossed. Rough idle problem solved. How unbelievable is that? Can't believe I wasted everybody's time and an entire WEEK screwing with that piece of crap. Not to mention all the money I needlessly squandered on sensors and other components. In conclusion thank you everybody for all your awesome help. I learned a lot of great testing techniques from Dale. Wish there was an explaination for the test light not lighting up during cranking while probing the plug wires. Thanks again all!!! Happy Jeeping...


IF THE TEST LIGHT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT IS A TEST LIGHT WITH A BULB IN IT THAT ISN'T MADE TO TEST IGNITION WIRES SPARK DOESN'T CREATE VOLTAGE DALE