I have seen a couple of postings here and on other boards about the tendency for the 97/98 GC's to stall during a left turn when the fuel level was below 1/4 tank. Also I have seen postings of the engine stalling during cruise on the highway - i.e. - as long as you are maintaining about 2000 rpm and using light throttle application to do so, the engine will continue to run, but as soon as you try to accelerate, the engine bogs down and stalls, until you back off on the throttle. I was experiencing both these symptoms, the latter with almost 1/2 tank of fuel. I put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail fitting and at idle I had 48 lbs pressure, which is normal for a 97, I hear. I pulled the gas tank and removed the pump module. The module consists of a metal can with a combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator, a fuel quantity sender unit, and a fuel pump with two fuel strainers. The can (in aircraft, we call it a volute) holds a quantity of fuel so that the pump will stay submerged and will not loose prime. I turned my can over and poured out quite a goodly amount of rust and some water. Both of the strainers, a larger one on the bottom of the can and a smaller one inside the can attached to the base of the pump were almost completely clogged with rust (probably picked up from some gas station who had his pump filter bypassing). I called the Jeep stealer to see about getting a couple of new strainers. He would only sell me a new pump module assy for a ridiculous amount of money. I tried several other parts houses, and only one sells the strainers separately, and of course they were out of stock until at least next week. I finally had to spend $105 for a new pump which I didn't need, but which came with new strainers. I cleaned out the tank interior and installed the new pump, strainers and module and reinstalled the tank. The new pump puts out 48 lbs at idle, just like the old one, but at least the stalling problems are gone. Maybe someone else can benefit from my experience with the above mentioned symptoms.

So what you're saying is that I should have gone with my first instinct and replaced my pump unit. (I have the same problem, posted on this site...) Thank you for sharing your experience. I will cut to the chase and R^2 the unit. I should expect that after 212K miles that my screens will look like yours did. Thanks again.

How difficult was it to remove and clean the unit? What seals/gaskets do you need to have on hand when you do it. How much gas can be in the tank at the time of removal????

How difficult was it to remove and clean the unit? What seals/gaskets do you need to have on hand when you do it. How much gas can be in the tank at the time of removal???? The job isn't too difficult. I had about seven gallons of gas in the tank when I did it. Of course, the more fuel you can burn before dropping the tank, the easier it is to handle. I had that much because that's what was in it when it died.
Jack the rear end up a few inches. Remove the two heat shields at the front of the tank, disconnect the fuel inlet hose and vent hose at the side, back off the two nuts on the mounting straps and support the tank. Pop the fuel line and vent (?) line out of the clips that hold them to the bottom of the floor. Disconnect the electrical connector.(I am speaking of a 97 GC and that is the configuration I have). Remove the two nuts and swing the straps out of the way and lower the tank to the ground. Pull the plastic vent line off it's fitting on the tank. Disconnect the quick release fuel line and move the tank out from under the vehicle. As I stated, I have a 97 and I think that pre 97 GC's have a different setup. The fuel tank module is held on with a large plastic threaded lid. Note the location of the fuel outlet in relation to the tank top. You need to be careful when unscrewing it, as the plastic ridges can break if you pry or hit them too hard. I used a large straight slot screwdriver to pry the lid using the tank as a fulcrum. You will see what I mean when you do it. Using a punch to hit it just screws up the ridges. When you get the lid off, the module will pop up as it is spring loaded. Remove the module and be careful not to bend the float arm as you do. The module (can) will be full of fuel. Dump this into a bucket and you will probably have quite a bit of rust and junk drain out with the fuel. Unclip the the fuel sender connector and press in on the three plastic latches that hold the top of the unit to the can. (The top of the unit is a combination fuel filter and pressure regulator) Remove the top and you will see the electrical connector for the pump. Disconnect this and pull the top off the module. On the bottom of the module is a strainer, probably completely blocked by rust. Pop this off with a screwdriver and pull the pump and paper centering device out of the module. On the top of the pump is a short metal tube with seals. On the bottom of the pump is another strainer, probably also blocked, and a rubber seal with a metal ring that helps it seal around the pump inlet tube. If you can get new strainers, simply replace them, lube the rubber seals with Vaseline and re-assemble as you took it apart. If your pump was putting out good pressure before you pulled the tank (~48 psi) then the pump is probably good. If you choose to replace it, (new pump kit $105 at Pep Boys) then the pump kits you get will supply you with new strainers, a pump, and a tank-to-module seal. I drained all the fuel out of the tank and wiped it out with paper towels to remove the rust,etc. I reused the large rubber seal on the bottom of the pump, the seals in the transition tube to the fuel regulator and the quick disconnect fitting, lubing them all up first. I tightened the module lid as tight as I could hand tight, which was pretty tight and put it all back together. Problem solved.

I replaced the fuel pump on my '98 and all is well, as you said. Mine was a simpler setup from the sounds of it. The straps are still there but there is no plastic shield. I would add for others who wish to do this themselves that the nuts (at least on the 98) holding the straps require a deep 14mm socket. Further, it wouldn't hurt to have a replacement refueling hose on hand as I had to cut mine off to get it off. Once again, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I feel like I am driving a sports car as compared to what it was doing before.