Revisiting an old problem

The dang check engine light. It has been on for just over a year now! I need to do something about it because I will have to get a smog check later this year.
It is code 214 (Cylinder Identification Circuit).

Backup... this is a '94 Escort, 1.9.

The cam and crank sensors are new... well they were new a year ago when I started dealing with this.

For what I can tell, the engine would not even run if something was wrong with the crank sensor. I am convinced something is wrong with the circuit of the cam sensor, or even the computer, but I don't know how to troubleshoot it.

I got into Mitchell On Demand awhile back and found some useful info but it said to install a breakout box to do the troubleshooting and I have no idea what that is.

So... in short... if anyone has any information about error code 214 and how to check it out I would appreciate some input. What would also be an enormous help is some info about the wiring... if you can tell me where the wires from the cam sensor go to (so I can check for a bad wire without tearing the whole harness apart) then I may be able to solve this.

Thanks :)

Ok..the check engine light is on.First you have to erase the code.Have you done this?..Perhaps..and the code comes up again.IF(sounds like) the light is ALWAYS on..this is a "hard code".Best to get one of those $20($25 here..Canada/)Wally.code readers.Erase the codes..both hard and soft.THEN if indeed you can erase the code..and it keeps coming back.Yes..I would suspect the wiring or the computer.

Oh yes... I am way beyond that.
It continues to reappear. Both sensors are new, codes have been cleared, everything triple checked and then some. Can't get rid of it. I just don't know where the wires disappear to inside the harness. I would like to do a simple continuity check to see if the wires are bad, but if they test good I am still at a loss. Just need some info on how to troubleshoot code 214.

As far as I can tell the only drawback is that I am losing gas mileage, so I have been able to drive it all this time. I won't pass the smog tests if the CEL is on though.

Oh yes... I am way beyond that.
It continues to reappear. Both sensors are new, codes have been cleared, everything triple checked and then some. Can't get rid of it. I just don't know where the wires disappear to inside the harness. I would like to do a simple continuity check to see if the wires are bad, but if they test good I am still at a loss. Just need some info on how to troubleshoot code 214.

As far as I can tell the only drawback is that I am losing gas mileage, so I have been able to drive it all this time. I won't pass the smog tests if the CEL is on though.

02 sensor?

I don't think the O2 sensor is even in the circuit.

The Cylinder Identification Curcuit is basically a timing device that instructs the fuel injection when to open based on cam and crank positions. The signal is either not present or is incorrect, so rather than the injectors opening in sequence they are operating in "batch mode" which I understand to mean that all injectors fire on every stroke... hence the loss of mileage.

I need to know how to test the circuit.

I do have a cheapie code reader that does various tests, but it can only go so far as to tell me there is a problem. I need to know how to isolate the problem.

I don't think the O2 sensor is even in the circuit.

The Cylinder Identification Curcuit is basically a timing device that instructs the fuel injection when to open based on cam and crank positions. The signal is either not present or is incorrect, so rather than the injectors opening in sequence they are operating in "batch mode" which I understand to mean that all injectors fire on every stroke... hence the loss of mileage.

I need to know how to test the circuit.

I do have a cheapie code reader that does various tests, but it can only go so far as to tell me there is a problem. I need to know how to isolate the problem.

are you sure its not part of it? in another post (stalls again one) someone talks about it being apart of the fuel injection info

Oh yes... I am way beyond that.
It continues to reappear. Both sensors are new, codes have been cleared, everything triple checked and then some. Can't get rid of it. I just don't know where the wires disappear to inside the harness. I would like to do a simple continuity check to see if the wires are bad, but if they test good I am still at a loss. Just need some info on how to troubleshoot code 214.

As far as I can tell the only drawback is that I am losing gas mileage, so I have been able to drive it all this time. I won't pass the smog tests if the CEL is on though.

mightymoose_22,
In order to help you troubleshoot the circuit I need to clarify a couple of things...
1. Is your 1.9L DIS?
2. When you first hooked up your scanner wasn't the first operation to verify the number of cylinders? Was this done, and was the number of cylinders flashed correct?
3. Does your scanner have the capability of clearing the codes? If not, what method was used to clear them.
4. How many wires go to the Cam & Crank Sensors, 3 or 4?

Hmm..
If the D in DIS means distributorLESS, than yes.
As it happens my car applies to the dfault values of the scanner, so all I have to do is plug it in. But yes, I have verified these things.
The scanner does have the ability to clear codes, and I have tried it. The battery was also disconnected for a few weeks while I was not driving it and the code still reappeared. As for the method used with the scanner I don'r recall the specifics, but it had something to do with shutting off the scanner in midscan before it reported the codes.
I am going by memory here... I believe there ar 3 wires at the cam sensor. I will double check tomorrow while under the hood.

I am just about convinced that it is the EEC. Having replaced the cam and crank sensors, verifying timing, etc... I think the computer is just screwed up.

If you search the forum for "code 214" you will find my old post on this from a year ago that somewhat logs what I was doing at the time.

Hmm..
If the D in DIS means distributorLESS, than yes.
As it happens my car applies to the dfault values of the scanner, so all I have to do is plug it in. But yes, I have verified these things.
The scanner does have the ability to clear codes, and I have tried it. The battery was also disconnected for a few weeks while I was not driving it and the code still reappeared. As for the method used with the scanner I don'r recall the specifics, but it had something to do with shutting off the scanner in midscan before it reported the codes.
I am going by memory here... I believe there ar 3 wires at the cam sensor. I will double check tomorrow while under the hood.

I am just about convinced that it is the EEC. Having replaced the cam and crank sensors, verifying timing, etc... I think the computer is just screwed up.

If you search the forum for "code 214" you will find my old post on this from a year ago that somewhat logs what I was doing at the time.

I had to replace my computer in my console i had almost the same symtoms but I didnt have any codes or light. 75.00 for (used) computer and labor not too bad seeing how ford couldnt figure it out either

Hmm..
If the D in DIS means distributorLESS, than yes.
As it happens my car applies to the dfault values of the scanner, so all I have to do is plug it in. But yes, I have verified these things.
The scanner does have the ability to clear codes, and I have tried it. The battery was also disconnected for a few weeks while I was not driving it and the code still reappeared. As for the method used with the scanner I don'r recall the specifics, but it had something to do with shutting off the scanner in midscan before it reported the codes.
I am going by memory here... I believe there ar 3 wires at the cam sensor. I will double check tomorrow while under the hood.

I am just about convinced that it is the EEC. Having replaced the cam and crank sensors, verifying timing, etc... I think the computer is just screwed up.

If you search the forum for "code 214" you will find my old post on this from a year ago that somewhat logs what I was doing at the time.

Taking your suggestion I read the 'history' of this problem which began with an engine change. The cause of the fault could be several things, but that would be guessing. I read nothing to tell me any diagnostic voltage/resistance checks had been performed on the crank or cam sensors. I disagree with your conclusion the sensors are 'good' based on the engine running. The engine is not performing properly. I can step you through input/output checks of the sensors, and by disconnecting the sensor/s from the computer make continuity and resistance checks.
I asked about the number of wires on the CPS, generally a three wire is the Hall effect type, and four wire the Magnetic type.
I asked about the confirmation of the ID code on the scanner which is the first sequence of the KOER self test. If the code from the computer came up with the right number of cylinders, (2 indications = 4cyl. etc) we can assume the 'sync-pulse' from the computer was present.

go to autozone and they will have a little book that tells every possible reason why that code might come up

I will check out Auto Zone later today perhaps... but I have been told they don't offer code reading services in California.

As for the electrical diagnostics... that is exactly the help I am looking for. THe error code is for Cylinder Identification Circuit and I don't know what is in the circuit... no idea how to troubleshoot it.

My reasoning on the sensors is the fact that they are new. The crank sensor was replaced with the engine because the old one broke when removing it. After the CEL appeared I assumed trouble with the cam sensor and replaced it, to no avail.

I am confident the sensors are good but have no problem with testing them... just need some direction on how to do so. If it can be done with a simple voltmeter then I am all set.

My previous thought was that perhaps a wire in the harness was broken during the engine change and the circuit is broken, but I don't know where the wires go to inside the harness and don't want to tear it apart.

I am going to tinker with this car more this afternoon. I haven't done much with it in a long time. Perhaps I will discover more information, or other existing problems, that will lead to a solution.

figures... california.... anyways an example of what i was talking about was i got the code 0411 and they pulled out this little book and it said it was the air pump, the wires leading to it, a fuse, or the air hoses were clogged. very useful, narrows it down pretty good.

I will check out Auto Zone later today perhaps... but I have been told they don't offer code reading services in California.

As for the electrical diagnostics... that is exactly the help I am looking for. THe error code is for Cylinder Identification Circuit and I don't know what is in the circuit... no idea how to troubleshoot it.

My reasoning on the sensors is the fact that they are new. The crank sensor was replaced with the engine because the old one broke when removing it. After the CEL appeared I assumed trouble with the cam sensor and replaced it, to no avail.

I am confident the sensors are good but have no problem with testing them... just need some direction on how to do so. If it can be done with a simple voltmeter then I am all set.

My previous thought was that perhaps a wire in the harness was broken during the engine change and the circuit is broken, but I don't know where the wires go to inside the harness and don't want to tear it apart.

I am going to tinker with this car more this afternoon. I haven't done much with it in a long time. Perhaps I will discover more information, or other existing problems, that will lead to a solution.

mm22,
You owe me an answer on the number of wires going to the crankshaft sensor...? :) In the meantime....
Disconnect the harness connector at the CPS. If, it is a 3 wire, the center terminal will be the signal, the outside terminals will be (+) and (-). With the Key Off, Engine Off, use your VOM check the ohms between the (-) terminal (in the sensor) and the sensor body should be 0 ohms. Now check resistance (ohms) between the sensor body and the engine/transmission, should be 0 ohms. You can check the camshaft sensor ground the same way. Let me know what you read. O.K.?
I have to find a wiring diagram for a 94 escort before I can tell what the 'reference voltage' from the EEC should be.

OK... believe it or not, the cam sensor and crank sensor each have only 2 wires.

Wednesday I should still be able to do the same tests that you have suggested.

I actually got my hands on a wiring diagram today... it shows the sensors but is not in as much detail as I would like. I don't have the means to scan it and share it though.

Today I ran the code reader again just to see how things are since the last time a year ago... all is the same. I first cleared the codes then ran the tests... all tests check out OK, other than 214 (the cylinder ID circuit) in continuous memory. And yes, it does correctly identify that there are 4 cylinders.

O.K. a 2 wire means the sensor is the magnetic type (I think) I will double check that ASAP. If the sensor is the magnetic type, (and it is adjustable) there should be a call-out for the proper 'air gap'. What we are looking for here is anything that would cause change in the input/output voltage.

If, you never experience engine missing or mis-fires we can eliminate the DIS module from the equation.....just thinking outloud.....carry on.

I thought the problem started with an otherwise checked out thoroughly and symptom free car other than poor fuel efficency.
That is why I guessed computer or wiring.
Aware now..that it started with an engine change.I'ld be going back in that direction.
I am guessing..Aren't the 2 wire sensors the EARLY ones?..Superceded by the later 3-4 wire ones?Perhaps there is incompatability between the early computer for this sensor and the later one now in the car?

My other guess..especially with the poor fuel economy(rich) would be a bad or erratic maf.There have been recalls on these and they are KNOWN to affect fuel economy AND cause WEIRD codes..BY throwing out false and clearly out of range/very abnormal readings.Switching a maf is simple and cheap(buy the WHOLE) housing at the bone.

Running well BUT otherwise poor fuel efficency.SOMETHING is either feeding the computer signals to "richen up"(for some reason((bad sensor?))).OR it is being read wrong by the computer.

I could be wrong.. but I thought on the dis motors that the cid was used to time plug firing.I'd be making sure I had the right sensor..and it was good.Then a cheapie through the secondary side..another used module,coil pack.

.

Poor fuel economy it's running too rich.I might even be tempted to try some VERY hot spark plugs for a short while..see if that doesn't maybe "clean things up a bit" and maybe fool the o2 to call off the rich.

Dirty/bad 02's can do wieird things too.Even PLENTY! of problems with non-original equipment replacements.

I am guessing..Aren't the 2 wire sensors the EARLY ones?..Superceded by the later 3-4 wire ones?Perhaps there is incompatability between the early computer for this sensor and the later one now in the car?


I could be wrong.. but I thought on the dis motors that the cid was used to time plug firing.I'd be making sure I had the right sensor..and it was good.Then a cheapie through the secondary side..another used module,coil pack.



Interesting thought... when I swapped the engine I broke the crank sensor and had to go get a new one. The part had been superceded and they gave me its replacement... it looked exactly the same. Perhaps I need additional wiring to go with that new crank sensor?

However, my attention has been focused on the cam sensor, although it has been so long now I don't recall exactly why.

Yes, the plug firing is controlled by the crank sensor... and to my knowledge the firing of fuel injectors is controlled by the cam sensor. With the 214 error code the injectors are firing in batch mode... perhaps that is why I was focused on the cam sensor.

It is pouring rain today... might not be able to get out to do much... will wait and see. I appreciate the comments to help!

If, you never experience engine missing or mis-fires we can eliminate the DIS module from the equation.....just thinking outloud.....carry on.

Nope, no misfires. Other than this light being on and the lost mileage, the car runs fine.

Nope, no misfires. Other than this light being on and the lost mileage, the car runs fine.

MM22,

Arnold has a good point, and you should make sure you have the correct replacement sensor. Parts that are physically interchangeable may not be calibrated the same and won't work properly if installed in the wrong application. To make sure it is correct, refer to the VIN as well as the OEM numbers on the original part (if you have it, or check your Ford Dealer parts Dept.)

Don't forget to do the 'Ground' resistance checks:

Crankshaft Sensor:
Two wire versus three or four wire: Two wire is the magnetic type sensor, three wire is the Hall effect sensor. The air gap between the sensor and the reluctor wheel will affect the sensor's output voltage. Any metal debris attracted by the magnetic sensor can also affect ouput voltage.
Did you have any kind of instruction sheet with the sensor addressing the 'air gap' setting? If not, we need to try and find out what the setting should be.
Magnetic crank position sensors produce alternating current when the engine is cranked so a voltage output check is is another test you can perform.....Disconnect the harness connector from the sensor, read the ouput voltage across the terminals while cranking the engine. You should see at least 20mv on the AC scale.

The resistance tests checked out ok. I forgot to try the crank output voltage... will do that on Sunday.

Not sure if you are familiar with the layout of the 94 1.9... I tested continuity of the wires from the crank sensor and cam sensor all the way to a grey plug that sits by the front motor mount, beneath the washer bottle. The wires are good... from there tehy enter the harness and go back across the firewall to the EDIS module... I doubt there is anything wrong with those wires... not sure how to test the EDIS.

I won't be able to get any info on the 2 wire vs 4 wire crank sensor til the dealership opens on Monday.

In other news... in messing with the car the last couple days I have found the fan is not operating correctly... it turns on when the car starts and runs for 10 seconds or so, then does not turn on again until the temp is almost redline. I beleive this means something is screwy with the low speed circuit, and the high speed is kicking on as it is supposed to. With the code reader hooked up and the tests running the computer is able to activate the fan at both speeds with no errors. I replaced the ECT sensor and the problem didn't go away.

So.. the fan motor is fine, the ECT sensor is good, the wiring seems fine... only other thing I can think of is the computer that is supposed to turn it on? Of course, this is the same computer that is responsible for that 214 code... I still suspect something is wrong with the EEC, just don't know how to verify it.

Think there is any chance the two problems could by related to the same faulty circuit somewhere?

Mightymoose..thought I'd add this..don't know if it'll help ya out?..my 93 has never overheated.Been overheated. 260,000 on it..The fan ALSO basically never runs! Last year I think there were 4 days(summer in Toronto) when I needed the a/c(STILL WORKS!).When the car is moving..above about 5 mph..NO fan.IF I am stuck in traffic and it is HOT..the temp.gauge will SLOWLY climb..and just before it reaches the beginning of getting too hot..the fan starts..runs for a few seonds(literally)..a few seconds on low..then a few seconds on high.. the temp.gauge drops.This doesn't happen much even in traffic for a while.IF the fan is running for it's few seconds..and I accelerate..pretty much as soon as the engine revs a bit..or I am above 5 mph.The fan goes back into hibernation.
I often go LONG periods of time without the fan.I know for a fact it has NOT come on since before the fall.I drive to my cottage..about 120 miles..highway..65mph..summer..windows open..big dog's head often out the window.. NO a/c NO fan.
My fan does not turn on when the car starts.
Ditto for the code reader.Wakes up sleepy old fan on both speeds for a few seconds.

Mightymoose22,
I asked for the ground resistance "readings'. Your response:"they were O.K." Doesn't provide the information I needed.
FYI: If you are not using a DVOM and have not isolated a circuit from the EEC or EDIS module when you perform 'continutity' checks, you could be damaging those electronic devices.
Your assumption the EEC is the root cause of the problems may be true however, in my experience 80% or better of all EEC problems are caused by poor connections and wiring faults. Troubleshooting using the process of testing and elimination is the most cost effective.
Example: You just changed your ECT sensor. Why? Had you checked it for resistance....you would have found it was not faulty. You spent your money and corrected nothing. In fact, there is a possibility the difference in the resistance of the two ECT's could be causing your "fan problem".
Sensor "Air Gap": I said we need to determine IF you had any information....no response. I said you may get this information from the Ford Dealer....Your response: "I won't be able to get any info on the 2 wire vs. 4 wire crank sensor till the dealership opens on Monday." That was not the question.
I asked earlier if your ignition was the DIS type. You said it was.....now you mention an EDIS module. There is a difference between a DIS and a EDIS system.
After I retired I started a nice business buying "problem cars" such as yours, fixing, and reselling them. The amount of profit I make is determined to a large degree being able to troubleshoot and diagnose in a logical and systematic way.
The intent of my message is not to be super critical of you. I've spent several hours trying to help you solve a 'year old' problem but, I don't feel that I'm able to help you further.
I wish you all the best,

Mightymoose22,
I asked for the ground resistance "readings'. Your response:"they were O.K." Doesn't provide the information I needed.
FYI: If you are not using a DVOM and have not isolated a circuit from the EEC or EDIS module when you perform 'continutity' checks, you could be damaging those electronic devices.
Your assumption the EEC is the root cause of the problems may be true however, in my experience 80% or better of all EEC problems are caused by poor connections and wiring faults. Troubleshooting using the process of testing and elimination is the most cost effective.
Example: You just changed your ECT sensor. Why? Had you checked it for resistance....you would have found it was not faulty. You spent your money and corrected nothing. In fact, there is a possibility the difference in the resistance of the two ECT's could be causing your "fan problem".
Sensor "Air Gap": I said we need to determine IF you had any information....no response. I said you may get this information from the Ford Dealer....Your response: "I won't be able to get any info on the 2 wire vs. 4 wire crank sensor till the dealership opens on Monday." That was not the question.
I asked earlier if your ignition was the DIS type. You said it was.....now you mention an EDIS module. There is a difference between a DIS and a EDIS system.
After I retired I started a nice business buying "problem cars" such as yours, fixing, and reselling them. The amount of profit I make is determined to a large degree being able to troubleshoot and diagnose in a logical and systematic way.
The intent of my message is not to be super critical of you. I've spent several hours trying to help you solve a 'year old' problem but, I don't feel that I'm able to help you further.
I wish you all the best,

Sometimes people ask for advice but thier heads are so clouded because they are so personally involved they cant step out of the situation and look with an open mind.

The resistance readings:
When connecting either terminal of the crank sensor and cam sensor to an engine ground there was no movement on the ohm meter... which is what we want, correct?

The crank sensor was putting out power as you specified but because of the cramped space I was unable to read the meter exactly. According to information from the dealer I should be more concerned about the cam sensor.

With the battery and PCM disconnected I checked continuity of the wires from the EDIS all the way to the senors and they were good.

My assumption about the EEC/PCM is because my first instinct (cam sensor) proved wrong and I can't find any wiring problems. However, I am concerned there may be something else in the circuit so I am asking for help to troubleshoot it. I too believe that a bad wire or sensor is more likely to be the problem... just can't seem to find it.

The ECT sensor was changed because my temp gauge went out... since I was in there changing one bad sensor for the temp gauge I thought I owuld be proactive and change the ECT while I was at it.

According to the Ford dealer the new crank sensor that superceded the old one is ok for my two wire system. There is no air gap setting.

As for the DIS/EDIS mixup... I suppose that is my fault. I am not familiar with the difference between the two and had assumed you meant EDIS.

Today I got a diagram of the wiring plug at the PCM and will check the wires between there and EDIS and to the fan relays... although the fan works with the code reader so I am not sure where to go with that... hmm.

The resistance readings:
When connecting either terminal of the crank sensor and cam sensor to an engine ground there was no movement on the ohm meter... which is what we want, correct?

The crank sensor was putting out power as you specified but because of the cramped space I was unable to read the meter exactly. According to information from the dealer I should be more concerned about the cam sensor.

With the battery and PCM disconnected I checked continuity of the wires from the EDIS all the way to the senors and they were good.

My assumption about the EEC/PCM is because my first instinct (cam sensor) proved wrong and I can't find any wiring problems. However, I am concerned there may be something else in the circuit so I am asking for help to troubleshoot it. I too believe that a bad wire or sensor is more likely to be the problem... just can't seem to find it.

The ECT sensor was changed because my temp gauge went out... since I was in there changing one bad sensor for the temp gauge I thought I owuld be proactive and change the ECT while I was at it.

According to the Ford dealer the new crank sensor that superceded the old one is ok for my two wire system. There is no air gap setting.

As for the DIS/EDIS mixup... I suppose that is my fault. I am not familiar with the difference between the two and had assumed you meant EDIS.

Today I got a diagram of the wiring plug at the PCM and will check the wires between there and EDIS and to the fan relays... although the fan works with the code reader so I am not sure where to go with that... hmm.
if you see a post I had a long time ago i was having a no start (but cranked fine) problem I replaced the pcm.crank sensor, cam sensor, coil pack, tune up, battery, new battery wire conncectors. still had problem then a mechanic tried cleaning hte connections to the computer and it helped a little but the problem came back all in all took almost 4 months and turned out to be the computer put a used one in and been fine after see post

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=254191

I had seen a used one on Ebay a week or two ago but wasn't ready to buy it... looked for it today and didn't find one :(
I still am not convinced that it is the PCM... I just am very suspicious of it since I can't find anything else wrong.
There is absolutely NO information out there about this problem (the 214 code). All I can find is definitions of the code, but no troubleshooting or component info :(
I read over the post that you linked... some similar issues there, except that my car starts and runs fine. I am not certain though... was your problem ultimately due to broken wires in the harness or a bad computer? I have a hard time believing the wires in the harness were phsically broken... unless they became broken in the course of tearing it apart.
Anyway that is why I have done continuity checks through every wire I can think of... everything seems fine.
I'd hate to buy a new computer and find out I had a broken wire...

I had seen a used one on Ebay a week or two ago but wasn't ready to buy it... looked for it today and didn't find one :(
I still am not convinced that it is the PCM... I just am very suspicious of it since I can't find anything else wrong.
There is absolutely NO information out there about this problem (the 214 code). All I can find is definitions of the code, but no troubleshooting or component info :(
I read over the post that you linked... some similar issues there, except that my car starts and runs fine. I am not certain though... was your problem ultimately due to broken wires in the harness or a bad computer? I have a hard time believing the wires in the harness were phsically broken... unless they became broken in the course of tearing it apart.
Anyway that is why I have done continuity checks through every wire I can think of... everything seems fine.
I'd hate to buy a new computer and find out I had a broken wire...

yes my problem was the computer (in the console near heater core) that was replaced with a used one. Used because it was his last shot hit or miss thing everything else was replaced he said. I see them all the time on ebay cheep too. Try looking at other "sister" model cars. BTW ford dealer (then I called ford) couldnt even find/test my problem 89.00 wasted with them.

well I have looked... a new one would cost at least $200, in some places as high as $350.
Right now I have a bid in on eBay for $5.50. For that price I don't mind giving it a shot.

I am still trying to find out now what the dif is between DIS and EDIS... they are both distributorless electronic ignition aren't they?

As for the computer... if I swap it out and it works, I can only wonder how long it will last since it is used. Still better than spending a few hundred bucks.

[
Right now I have a bid in on eBay for $5.50. For that price I don't mind giving it a shot.

As for the computer... if I swap it out and it works, I can only wonder how long it will last since it is used. Still better than spending a few hundred bucks.[/QUOTE]

Well for 5.00 I would try it anyhow then if it cures your troubles then you can save and pony up the money for a new one. untill your sure what your problem is your just shooting in the dark. So for 5.00 I'd try it.

I went down to Pep Boys this afternoon and got a printout from the Mitchell On Demand service that goes over soem diagnostics for this circuit... however it requires the use of a breakout box, which I don't have. I found one for sale for about $80 and don't want to spring for that, so I will try to work around it. It is very useful and gives specific pins on the PCM connector to check the wires and grounding problems.

well I have looked... a new one would cost at least $200, in some places as high as $350.
Right now I have a bid in on eBay for $5.50. For that price I don't mind giving it a shot.


As for the computer... if I swap it out and it works, I can only wonder how long it will last since it is used. Still better than spending a few hundred bucks.

"I am still trying to find out now what the dif is between DIS and EDIS... they are both distributorless electronic ignition aren't they?"

The major difference is the DIS system requires a CID (Cylinder Identification; cam phase) sensor.

Since your engine has a camshaft sensor....it is not EDIS. Since it is not a EDIS, you need to identify the module you referred to as the EDIS module. (Maybe ignition module}?

A '94 escort 1.9 is most definately EDIS. (electronic distributerless ignition system) The module is located between the engine fuse box and the driver side strut tower. Any '91 thru '95 escort/tracer with a 1.9 is EDIS. The module is clearly labeled EDIS in big red letters.

I went down to Pep Boys this afternoon and got a printout from the Mitchell On Demand service that goes over soem diagnostics for this circuit... however it requires the use of a breakout box, which I don't have. I found one for sale for about $80 and don't want to spring for that, so I will try to work around it. It is very useful and gives specific pins on the PCM connector to check the wires and grounding problems.

Glad to hear you got a printout.
1. I would check the Camshaft sensor for AC output just like you did the Crankshaft.
2. Identify the wire color code/s in the Camshaft Sensor connector. You should be able to trace those color codes up to the next component.....either the ignition module or the EEC.
3. Disconnect both ends of the harness and perform a continuity check on them. Do you have a DVOM?

A '94 escort 1.9 is most definately EDIS. (electronic distributerless ignition system) The module is located between the engine fuse box and the driver side strut tower. Any '91 thru '95 escort/tracer with a 1.9 is EDIS. The module is clearly labeled EDIS in big red letters.

O.K. thanks jman63,
As you can see, I'm struggling trying to identify the correct ignition system without a wiring diagram or much of anything to go on. The information I relayed to MM22 was out of the Ford Electronic Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control (Technical Information).....looks like we've got something else to sort out.
Thanks again.

Again I suppose I made an assumption that I should not have. I thought by identifying my engine as a 1.9 it would tell what components were involved... I have always heard that the Escorts were basicall ythe same from year to year til late 90's.
From the diagrams I have pulled up now I can pretty easily trace the wires from the PCM connector, through the EDIS, then to the sensors.
I did test power a tthe cam sensor the other day, and there was some, but I did not know what the specs were at the time. I got that out of the Mitchell info today and will test it again to see if it is right.

My multimeter is not digital... I've got the ol needle going. Works fine for this, but I just need to be able to see the needle which is a pain sometimes.

I need to get out there again with my new info and see what I can turn up. I am pretty confident at this point that the wiing is going to be fine and that the sensors are fine... I think it is a matter of whether the EDIS or PCM is not working right. When I did the engine change the EDIS was at the end of the wiring harness and was removed from the car for a day or two... perhaps something happened to it at the time. However, all the info I am digging up from day to day points to the PCM... hopefully a little more testing will sort it out.

And FYI... the dealer wanted the hour labor to put it on the machine and get the code that I already retrieved and told them what it was. They didn't want to do anything unless they diagnosed it themselves... at this point I would rather let them do it, but don't have the dough for it.

FYI, if anyone cares, I bought a new computer on eBay and have since experienced an eBay nightmare. 3 weeks later I am still waiting for the guy to ship the thing. I only paid $20 for it so I would rather wait it out and have him send it then shop for it somewhere else and pay more.
So... whenever it shows up I should be able to report some results :)

When nothing helps, dont forget to check that the wires are in good order. My daughter's escort 99's SES light was on a few weeks back and everyone indicated that the fuel pressure sensor needed replacing. I bought one from ford but did not put it in because I was never sure that it was the problem as the car ran just fine and because both the fuel pressure and the vacumn were OK. What else could be wrong, I asked myself. I thought about the wires and after a quick test with an Ohm-Meter, the problem was identified. The wire that feeds the computer with the sensor signal was cut at 1/4 inch from the connector. After sondering the two ends together, the light stayed off.

Regarding the check engine light... code 214- Cylinder Identification Circuit-

Turns out that the camshaft was missing the magnet that gives the signal to the sensor. While I was able to verify good wires and that power was where it was supposed to be, I never had the tools needed to see the signal was not there. So... while I had the head off for other reasons I put a new cam in and the light went right out :) TO refresh... I had replaced the engine awhile back, and apparently the boneheads that put it together put the wrong cam in... it was the right cam to an extent, as the car ran just fine, but it was the wrong cam in that it was missing the magnet!

Congratulations. I'd have given up by now. Never would have even thought of that! :confused: