I found out why my truck was burning antifreeze. And I was not happy. There is a groove between cyllinders 4 and 6 on the block and on the head. It's about a quarter inch deep on each side and the whole with of the space between the cyllinders. I was wondering if it's possibe to weld on an engine block\ cyllinder head. Because if it is I will have someone do it because I don't have the money to buy another motor. (Bought this 2 weeks ago from a salvage yard, needless to say, they ripped me off because I have had more problems with it than anything.)

Its really hard to get a good weld on this stuff while its still put together!!! Plus it will have to be machined back down (the welds)If you tear it down & clean it very good you could weld it BUT you might as well put new parts back in your motor(rings & valves & such)So I supose thats spendin to much again.I HATE dishonest parts guys BASTARDS

What a bummer. Your best bet is to fix it right the first time. That is wait until you can afford a new motor. If you have yours welded, think about it, all your doing is taking another chance just like you did at the salvage yard. Once you get 'er fix however, your gonna love that truck!

The problem with welding it is you must heat the cast iron block to just below it's melting point before you can weld it. One thing you may want to try is JB Weld. I patched a 1.5L toyota head between cylinders 1&2 with it, and it worked for several hundred miles. As far as I know, it would have lasted much longer, but I junked the car when the alternator went out.

I don't know how well it would work on that big of a track, mine was 1/8" to 1/4", but it's worth a try.

And I forgot:
1) Use the original JB Weld, not JB Quick. It takes 24 hours to cure, or dry... whatever they say on the package, but give it several days before running the engine.

2) Take the thermostat out to keep the temp as low as you can. The thermostat in my car didn't work (stuck open), so that may have contributed to the sucess of the patch.

3) Go easy on 'er!

IF you do wanna try fixin this engine while you save up $$ for a new one, JB Weld would be better than trying to "weld" it for the reasons J-Ri mentioned. And yes, use the old skool JB Weld, not the quick stuff for sure.

I have the problem solved. My dad went back to the salvage yard and after a little bit of stratigic convincing(Dad is 6'7" 250) they are going to give us a replacement motor for it. I'm not sure how good that will be though because they are kind of shady there. They told me the motor I was buyin before was a 93 and it ended up being an 89 so I had to switch all of the wiring. Hopefully they don't rip me off again. I am planning on saving up for a Goodwrench crate 350 just incase this motor goes in the future. I'll post back on the motor's condition when I get it.

All salvage yards seem to be "shady". After all, they are selling "junk". However, luckily the junk yard you went to is willing to work with you. Hopefully you will have some better luck this time.

Anyone ever try that new HTS-528 cast iron brazing rod? Check it out here is the link: http://newtechnologyproducts.net/hts528.htm

well i got my new,used motor. This one has 89,000 on it. I bought the stock GM 350 chip and put new cap, roter, plugs, and wires in it. My only problem now is when I stomp on it it chuggs and then after holding it for a few seconds it starts to speed up. My dad thinks it's the local gas station but I never had problems with that gas in my 305. Would the 350 make a difference? I also set my timing at 0. Should I advance it? Well i'm going to go into the closest city and buy some 93 octane tom. and put in some injector cleaner to see if that will do the trick. If not i'm stumped

Did the new/used engine from the boneyard come complete with TBI etc and did you use it or your old stuff? You shouldn't have to advance timing or use 93 gas...Hopefully, gas from a different dealer and the cleaner will solve the problem. When you got the stock 350 chip did you specify tranny type too? The first chip I got from the local GM dealer when I did my swap turned out to be for a 350 w/auto tranny and the engine would not run right beyond idle when you accelerated up thru the gears. I never could find the correct stock chip locally and would up getting a Hypertech. Was actually cheaper then the so called stock one from the dealer. Does it idle good? Run better hot or cold?

I used all of my stuff on it. I even used my tbi but switched the injectors. The chip is the right one and I don't know what else it could be

well i went and put some good 93 octane gas in it and added IsoHeat and some Injector cleaner. It's still doing it though. I also noticed sometimes when it does it it makes a thump i can feel in the floorboards. I thought it was a backfire but i'm not sure. Sombody help I have had nothing but bad luck since my 305 went

I'd recheck all the electrical connections, especially the ones for the coil and distributor and all your grounds. Check the coil for cracks etc and ohm out. Keep in mind that sometimes a coil will check good, but it will break down under a load. You can use the Haynes manual for the correct procedures. I'd check the distributor for bushing wear and check/test the pickup coil and ignition module. Also closely inspect the reluctor, the flat, round piece at the top of the distributor for cracks. Check the TPS with a meter to make sure the change is nice and smooth with no flat spots. Does it accelerate without problems if you do it slowly or just when you stomp on it? Watch the injectors for a nice even spray and with no dribbles. Check the fuel pressure too. Sometimes the the spring in the fuel pressure regulator will corrode and break in two. Also, you didn't say whether or not its better when cold or hot. Just want to know incase its better in open loop.

There was one ground I completely overlooked. It was the one from the body to the back of the head. I forgot it and couldn't get it on once the motor was in so i hooked it to the bellhousing. Also the fuel injectors do drip a little when I watched while it was idling. It runs much better once it's warm too. It act up too much when warm. My dad drove it and he said it feels like the tranny slipping but i don't think thats it. I put some slick 50 in there today though just incase.