1995 Ford Escort Stalls after warming up

I have a 1995 Escort 1.9L Engine. The car runs fine until it warms up The car just will not idle right once it warms up. The rpms drop off and the car stalls out. As long as your foot stays on the gas the car runs great. If you stop at a light or stop sign I have to slip the car into neutral, with the break on of course, and keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling out when the rpms drop. :eek:

I have replaced the spark plugs, Spark plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, PCV Valve and filter.

The engine light is not on so no codes to go by.

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. At my wits on trying to figure out whats wrong :banghead:

I have a 1995 Escort 1.9L Engine. The car runs fine until it warms up The car just will not idle right once it warms up. The rpms drop off and the car stalls out. As long as your foot stays on the gas the car runs great. If you stop at a light or stop sign I have to slip the car into neutral, with the break on of course, and keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling out when the rpms drop. :eek:

I have replaced the spark plugs, Spark plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, PCV Valve and filter.

The engine light is not on so no codes to go by.

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. At my wits on trying to figure out whats wrong :banghead:

Suggestion: Take the car to Autozone to have the computer codes 'read'
It is a free service and they will tell you if you have any emission sensor issues.
From your description, the problem sounds as if it is fuel delivery related, based on the problem becoming apparent only during 'closed loop' operation. However, the computer read-out will give you a starting point.

Autozone will not read the codes unless the Engine Light is on. I was told the engine light would only come on if a sensor triggered it.

Does your engine have the PCV valve located in the top of the valve cover? Is it a Mult-port fuel injection?

Does your engine have the PCV valve located in the top of the valve cover? Is it a Mult-port fuel injection?

The PCV valve is down in front of the Engine block not on top of the valve cover. When you open the hood you look down and can see it. The hose (which is two peices for hose that at are fitted on either end of a bent hard plactic tube) goes from the PCV valve then up to the valve cover. Replaced the end section of the hose where it connects to the valve cover because old hose section came off too easily. My model of Escort Engine 1.9L has a Throttle Body.

From your description, the problem sounds as if it is fuel delivery related, based on the problem becoming apparent only during 'closed loop' operation.
As reading, the same thing popped into my head.

Possibly a bad/going fuel pressure regulator on his fuel rail, or fuel filter? Maybe as far as pump or strainer?

The PCV valve is down in front of the Engine block not on top of the valve cover. When you open the hood you look down and can see it. The hose (which is two peices for hose that at are fitted on either end of a bent hard plactic tube) goes from the PCV valve then up to the valve cover. Replaced the end section of the hose where it connects to the valve cover because old hose section came off too easily. My model of Escort Engine 1.9L has a Throttle Body.

There are a couple different configurations of 'Throttle Body' (CFI) engines, and a couple of things that need to be checked:
a. Remove the air cleaner, do not detach vacuum hoses and check to see if they in good shape, not cracked, and not leaking vacuum.
b. Turn the air cleaner up side down and look at the vacuum motor door it should be 'OPEN' If it isn't it may be binding or sticking. Try to move it by hand, lubricate and work it until it moves freely.
c. Start the engine and see if the door moves. If it does, shut off the engine and the door should move within a couple of minutes. If everything looks good. We will move on to the next step.....
The Idle speed control (ISC).

As reading, the same thing popped into my head.

Possibly a bad/going fuel pressure regulator on his fuel rail, or fuel filter? Maybe as far as pump or strainer?


Already replaced the Fuel Filter but will look into the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Pump and strainer..waiting for a day when it is not snowing out :lol:

I got exactly the same problem on my 1995 1.9L escort.

I tried replacing the IAC valve and it didn't help. I also cleaned up the throttle body and IAS bypass and it did nothing. Now, a garageman told me I must replace the wiring, but i'm almost sure it won't work.

Keep me aware if you fix the problem.

I'm also having the same problem on my '01 Escort. Only difference is i have a service engine light on. I'm going to get the light checked tomorrow. Maybe it can give you an idea what to look at.

I would have a shop check the pump pressure to see if it's in spec.
Also the O2 sensor might be a good place to look as when it goes
to closed loop this is computer uses to adjust the fuel injectors.
Also, as previously mentioned check ALL the vacum lines under the
hood as they get brittle over time and can leak. False air will cause
a crappy/no idle every time.

I took my '01 to the dealer with that problem. (have family who works there) On mine it was the IAC valve. I have a temporary used one on there right now. i have to order a new one. Within five minutes mine was running fine. I work about an hour from where i live and i didn't have any problems on the drive.

There are a couple different configurations of 'Throttle Body' (CFI) engines, and a couple of things that need to be checked:
a. Remove the air cleaner, do not detach vacuum hoses and check to see if they in good shape, not cracked, and not leaking vacuum.
b. Turn the air cleaner up side down and look at the vacuum motor door it should be 'OPEN' If it isn't it may be binding or sticking. Try to move it by hand, lubricate and work it until it moves freely.
c. Start the engine and see if the door moves. If it does, shut off the engine and the door should move within a couple of minutes. If everything looks good. We will move on to the next step.....
The Idle speed control (ISC).

does this apply to the 2.0? and what is the door you are talking about i dont know what it looks like

does this apply to the 2.0? and what is the door you are talking about i dont know what it looks like

I was trying to determine if his 1.9L engine was a CFI, and had an air cleaner. The door I was speaking of is in the air cleaner and part of the inlet air temperature control system.

I was trying to determine if his 1.9L engine was a CFI, and had an air cleaner. The door I was speaking of is in the air cleaner and part of the inlet air temperature control system.so then mine dont have it then right? i have the cone

I was trying to determine if his 1.9L engine was a CFI, and had an air cleaner. The door I was speaking of is in the air cleaner and part of the inlet air temperature control system.

My car has an Air Filter that has the PCV Filter inside it. I have not been able to do the check you suggested due to the weather. Soon as the weather co-operates Ill let you know.

BTW I am a She not a He who happens to work on her own cars. :biggrin:

My car has an Air Filter that has the PCV Filter inside it. I have not been able to do the check you suggested due to the weather. Soon as the weather co-operates Ill let you know.

BTW I am a She not a He who happens to work on her own cars. :biggrin:

O.K. .....yes MAM!!!!! :biggrin:

I think it's great for you to work on your car.

Let me know if the symptoms change on your car in the meantime.

After replacing the IAC and still no change took the car to the dealership to have a diagnostic run. Found out that the gasket for the Intake Manifold was leaking air into the engine. Once that was fixed the problem went away.

After replacing the IAC and still no change took the car to the dealership to have a diagnostic run. Found out that the gasket for the Intake Manifold was leaking air into the engine. Once that was fixed the problem went away.

Thanks for the up-date, your information may help others with the same problem.
Do you know what method they used to find the leak i.e. vacuum gage, propane torch etc.?
Was replacing the IAC a part of the dealer's diagnosis?
All the best,

IAC was not a suggestion from the dealership.
It was replaced based on the posts here and part of the troubling shooting I was doing.

I also cleaned the Throttle Body with Throttle Body cleaner.
The car got to the point that it would idle rough no matter if it was hot or cold and would immediatly stop running when I started the car cold.

On the way there the engine light flashed on, first time it did after all this time, then flashed off.

The dealership, as far as I know, used the diagnostic computer to see what was wrong.

IAC was not a suggestion from the dealership.
It was replaced based on the posts here and part of the troubling shooting I was doing.

I also cleaned the Throttle Body with Throttle Body cleaner.
The car got to the point that it would idle rough no matter if it was hot or cold and would immediatly stop running when I started the car cold.

On the way there the engine light flashed on, first time it did after all this time, then flashed off.

The dealership, as far as I know, used the diagnostic computer to see what was wrong.

Thanks for the reply. I'm always trying to learn new diagnostic methods, and I thought the dealership might have a new one. Talking about the IAC, last week an escort was pretty sour on idle and I unplugged the IAC connector for a few seconds (while it was running) and then plugged it back. Engine smoothed right out. I figure the IAC was stuck.
I was in a hurry, and the guy got a bill for $0....we were both surprised and happy. :)
All the best,

Also the O2 sensor might be a good place to look as when it goes
to closed loop this is computer uses to adjust the fuel injectors.
:iagree:

Thanks for the reply. I'm always trying to learn new diagnostic methods, and I thought the dealership might have a new one. Talking about the IAC, last week an escort was pretty sour on idle and I unplugged the IAC connector for a few seconds (while it was running) and then plugged it back. Engine smoothed right out. I figure the IAC was stuck.
I was in a hurry, and the guy got a bill for $0....we were both surprised and happy. :)
All the best,

Alvin,
I hear people talk about the IAC. What are the symtoms of a faulty one, and also how can you test to see if it is working or faulty?

(I didnt understand your post did it smooth out beause you reset the IAC or because of a change in idle that ment the IAC was bad?)

Changing the intake manifold gasket solved the problem for me too. Thank you Tonkane and all of you for all these precious information!!!!!

I took my '01 to the dealer with that problem. (have family who works there) On mine it was the IAC valve. I have a temporary used one on there right now. i have to order a new one. Within five minutes mine was running fine. I work about an hour from where i live and i didn't have any problems on the drive.
Having the same problem with my 93 it is the map sensor and the idle air control valve

Thanks to all who posted replies. I bought a 95 Escort Wagon for my sons first car yesterday. The test drive only showed it was a $800 car and might need a tune up, poor idel at stops, occassional stalls. I was considering plugs, harness, tune up, etc. However after reading your replies, I thought I'd try the $6 PCV valve. I did find significant oil in the air filter casing. The was the best first step.

Welcome to AF. This last post is over 3 years old. It would really be great if you could start a new thread on any thread that is over 3 months old. Glad you got your car running good with a new PCV valve. So little can do so much.

I have owned and maintained a 1995 1.9 for eight years and each time an idle problem developed the cause was a vacuum line leak. THREE vac line leaks were......

1) 1/2" line from bottom of EGR module mounted on firewall. It is known to burn a hole at the bend. I am referring to the module on the LEFT as you are facing the firewall.

2) Short line to the PCV valve. Mine looked OK (no cracks) but it was brittle and leaking.....discovered while engine running and spraying lines with gum out.

3) There is a (right angle) vacuum line connection located on the left side battery as you are facing the engine, about level with the bottom of the battery. This 90 degree piece is easily spotted IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR IT. Mine had a hole due to rubbing.

Replace ALL the vacuum lines on this engine FIRST....and then determine if it is a sensor or other problem causing a screwy idle.

Contact me if you need photos.

Welcome to AF!

Please don't respond to a thread that is over 3 months old. Start a new thread. This is in accordance to the guidelines for AF.