Tried everything ENGINE TICKS LOUDER

I have a 95 i read on here about how to add the deep creep in the throttle body thoat....didnt work. used engine flush...didn't work. Used cd-2.....didnt work. Used $14 Mobile 1 oil filter with sythetic oil......help a TAD. But recently Tick get louder and more embarasing. I heard it was lifters but the dealership said i dont have lifters and that it was the rocker arms. Its a 3.2 v6. WHAT do i do.....it now sound almost like a hissing tick.....(i guess you could say it sounds kinda like a lawn sprinkler) it doesnt go away with a engine rev either now...it used to. HELP. I CANT TAKE IT ANYMORE

The lifters and rocker arms are together and expensive.Carl

Dont waste your money by dumping M1 and M1 filters early!!!! Major waste of cash (and oil) Cleaning the throttle/intake/common chamber will do nothing for a hydralic valve lash adjuster 'tick'!!!!! Try running a few short oil change intervals with an inexpensive 5w-20 motor oil with an inexpensive oil filter. Or do this in combination with a can of engine flush. Any brand will do. If you have a plugged 'lifter' oil orifice, this should fix it for you. If you have a more serious top end issue, the tick wont go away & you will need top end work. Like BIAR says, that's a bit costly. Hopefully the 'thin' oil flush(es) will work for you. It might take a couple of tries.
G/luck
Joel

I started working a isuzu in early 1997.This is what I was taught by the techs there.We would put 1 qt of trans fluid in it and run it hard for about ten minutes,then drain and refill.And advise the oil to be chaged 500 miles later.If it had under 60k miles it usually worked.But not always and the higher mileage the less likely for any change.
I went back to honda later on .Honda came out with a news letter in about 2000 or 2001 I can,t remeber for sure.That said remove the lifters and inspect and if you can get them to pump up with your fingers clean and reinstall.We had a 1994 passport that they were going to wholesale.I talked the service manager into letting me try it.I cleaned them,oiled them up,reinstalled.And.......no change still made noise.Lesson learned.
That is just my experience with them.I have never seen it give anyone a problem execpt being annoying.
There are more techs that come on here maybe they will have something for you.Carl

i also heard about the trans fluid. it sounds the easiest. So should i start adding the trans fluid at an oil change. and can i add it to synthetic or is that pointless. and alos did i do the deep creep thing right. i had the enging running and sprayed into the t.b. to lube up the stuff. had anybody else heard of anymore inexpensive alternatives. I'd rather let the enging run off atf and oil for a year if it helps that tick rather than spend 3200 bucks on a 2500 doller truck. last year at this time i could sit in the truck and couldnt tell if it was running or not. thanks guys

We wouldn,t leave the trans fluid in it.We would drain after about ten minutes of HARD drivng.It looks like you have tried all the quick fixes already.I think I would just drive it.
Like I said maybe someone else will log on with some better advise.Carl

Although my first post was today, i've been up and down these boards 1k times, like you would if you loved it like i do even tho you've done the motor swap with the previous owner. I have a 93 rodeo with a 95 "passport" engine (whats under then 3.2l v6 plate i wonder lol). I haven't done deep creep but i've done aqua marine in the oil and the tank, a couple times, done 5q tranny for 20 min or so hard, followed by a real oil change and another <1500 miles later. Done a mobil 1 filter and 2 purolators, purolators produce ticking more often but i like the starts better (and stayed away from fram like someone said...). I've done all this since I got it Oct last year. 15k miles since then. Figured results would take time but not this long. There are clacks, and there are ticks. The clacks go away within seconds of startups. The ticks can be lived with when u waste the exhaust system off roading in ur buddys back yard and it makes sounds that make everyone else roll their windows up. Only bugs me cuz the previous owner had ticking, b4 the sledgehammer sound, so ticking is negligable but at the same time, I see the majority of these 91-97s without any ticking sounds, and figure its cuz the rest of them are stuck in the driveway with ruined rocker arms. If i could get 2eyefishclaw (rip?) or rodeo02 to work on it, what a dream, but til then , enjoy your ever-lasting paint job and red light racing. Not to mention the millions of everything else that you would have replaced had you any other 95 anything. Dealership experience is rape when u r talking used rodeos.

I have a 96 Trooper with the lifter noise if I change my oil every 2,500 miles no noise if I go ove 2,500 noise starts up evry time I change the oil I dump a 1/2 qt. of tranny fluid in it hoping that one day it will eventually clean out if not then at least the tranny fluid is helping to keep it clean
oh and when you change your oil do it when the engine is at operating temp. otherwise you are leavind a whole lot of deposits behind

i had the same prob the warranty covered mine they changed the rocker arms the time of labor is 10 hours so they had down on my receipt now there hasnt been any ticking for 35k miles kncok on wood

Hey All,

I've got the same tap on my 96 Passport (3.2L). I tried everything (cheap solutions) to see if I could resolve the tapping. Tried all the solvents, and changed the T-belt tensioner. No luck, still tapping, even louder now.

The only remedy left is to tear apart the top end and install new components. I did a similar job on a Lexus 32 valve V8 with shim swaps (probably much easier than the 3.2L hydraulic engine). I have never dealt with this kind of engine and rocker setup. I am trying to gather as much information as I can before plunging into this job.

Does anyone have a link or posting of a brief overview of the job, or better yet pictures taken of the top end? I am trying to picture how difficult of a job it is. I know the tedious part is getting the valve covers removed. But after removal of the valve covers, how technical is it to replace the components.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
HondaBiz

I have a 97 3.2L with 181k miles on it. It had 165k last year when I bought it. I was told when I bought my Rodeo that the tapping noise was a nuisance only and did not really do any damage to the engine. Since I only hear the tapping at idle/very slow speeds, and it would cost more than I paid for the vehicle to "fix" it, I just ignore it. I was skeptical at first, but it starts right up and still runs like a dream (just have to keep a check on the oil level). I also find that with a nice aftermarket stereo system, I do not hear the tapping.

Maybe he has a bad timing belt tensioner and its not the lifters at all. :naughty:

I see the majority of these 91-97s without any ticking sounds, and figure its cuz the rest of them are stuck in the driveway with ruined rocker arms.

It's too bad that yours is actually loud enough to cause others to roll up their windows, even on the 2nd engine.

I've been fortunate to have had 2 Rodeo's, one a 3.1L V6 GM engine; the other 3.2L V6 Isuzu very light ticker, and only when it's due for an oil change will it start ticken.

But I have heard some, while sitting beside them at a stop light, ticken so loud you almost cringe. If mine ever starting ticking that loud, I'd be looking for an answer too.

When my 94' Rodeo starts 'ticking' , I use a product called Sea Foam in it. I buy it at a local NAPA store. Checker Auto also has it. It works!

I add it to my crankcase and the engine quiets right down. My Rodeo has 133,000 miles on it now.... It works well to clean the injectors by using it in the gas or I clean the intake by letting the PVC vacuum line suck a few ounces directly into the engine. Don't do this in your garage as it will lay a smoke screen down you won't believe. But the engine runs better afterwards. This obviously will not fix damaged lifters, but at the first sign of ticking, it works for me.

Make sure you change your oil ASAP, after using Sea Foam for the first time.

Anybody care to try Auto-RX from www.auto-rx.com. It is kind of pricey
at $25 a bottle and you need 2 usually, but seems like right stuff for this job. Follow directions on site.

Make sure you change your oil ASAP, after using Sea Foam for the first time.



ASAP meaning the same day. You don't want to run your engine above idle with Sea Foam in it. Makes the oil the about consistency of water.


BTW, no one thinks he might have a bad t-belt tensioner? :cwm27:

I Had The Same Sound, I Changed The V-c Gaskets And Found That (2)plugs Were Under Oil 1/2 Way Up The Tubes. I Replaced The Grommets And I Have Put About 450 Miles Since The Without A Peep. Grommets Were 10 Bucks Apiece But Worth It. Oil Pressure Is 30 Warm.