Need Real Pro - Emergency - 94 Camry No Spark

My 1994 Camry 4 Cyl 5sfe Will Not Start. There Is N0 Spark. Starter And Motor Turn, But No Spark. Distributor Turns So I Know It Is Not The Timing Belt. Igniter Is Separate From Distributer And Is On Driver's Side Strut Housing. I Have Been Trying To Fix For About A Month Now. So Far I Have Replaced The Following In This Order

Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Ditributor Cap
Rotor
Condensor
Coil (transformer)
All Plugs To Igniter And Distributor.
Igniter (twice)
Ecm (engine Computer)

I Have Checked All Wires Between Distributer, Igniter, Ecm And Ignition Switch. None Are Grounded Or Shorted. Ignition Switch Also Tests Ok. I Have Replaced All Ground Wires. I Get A Code 14 Which Is No Igf Signal From The Igniter. Chilton And Haynes Manuals Are Useless. I Did Everything In The Flow Charts Of These Manuals And Still No Luck. What Could The Problem Be? I Am About To Loose My Mind Over This Problem. Please Help.

Is Anyone Up To This Challenge? I Thought I Could Fix It, But I Am Loosing Faith.

I don't really know much about this, but at this time it may be better to just go to the dealer and get it fixed. Any Jim Bob Blow Job Auto Care's are just gonna do what you've been doing, replacing everything with no result. The dealers would know best. If not I would wait to see if someone here replies. Sorry I'm not help, but don't lose faith.

I'm not sure why you blindly replaced so many parts. I don't believe they are all bad.

Did you check the fuse first? If the fuse for the ignition is burnt, no matter how much money you spend, you won't get spark. Give it a try.

Would guess the pickup coils in the distributor need to be checked to see if they're generating a signal.
Sounds like you've already changed everything else.
For this type of ignition diagnostic work, you really need the Factory Service Manual. Volume 1 for the 1994 5S-FE Ignition System has two sections: California and Except California.
The distributors are quite different.
Not sure how much of the manual I can re type here, but the Spark Test section is: check connections at coil and distributor, check high tension cord resistance (max 25K ohms), check power supply to coil and igniter (battery voltage at coil positive terminal), check resistance of coil (cold primary: .36-.55 ohms, cold secondary: 9-15.4 ohms), check resistance of signal generator (pick up coil) (primary and secondary - hot and cold values are given), check air gap of distributor (.012" +/- .004", except Calif. can go max. .020"), check IGT signal from ECM.
For the non Calif. distributor, to check the signal generator (pick up coil) resistance, look at the connector for the distributor. There are some ribs on the left side.Viewed this way, the lower two contacts are called G- and G+. Resistance cold is 185-275 ohms. The upper two contacts are called Ne+and Ne-. Resistance cold is 370-550 ohms.
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the distributor housing.
For California, the ribs on the connector are on the top. Just part of the plastic moulding to help identify which way you're looking at it. From left to right the contacts are labeled: G-, G2, G1, NE.
Using an ohmmeter, cold pick up coil resistance is:
G1 and G- : 125-200 ohms
G2 and G-: 125-200 ohms
NE and G-: 155-250 ohms
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I don't claim to be an expert, but having the factory manual really helps. Sounds like you would have saved the cost on this project avoiding unnecessary part replacement by having correct test procedures at hand.
I've used it for the timing belt, setting belt tension, correct torque figures (sometimes Haynes is wrong), changing the IAC valve and cleaning/ adjusting the TB, plus general maintenance and repair procedures. Keep checking eBay.

For the non Calif. distributor, to check the signal generator (pick up coil) resistance, look at the connector for the distributor. There are some ribs on the left side.Viewed this way, the lower two contacts are called G- and G+. Resistance cold is 185-275 ohms. The upper two contacts are called Ne+and Ne-. Resistance cold is 370-550 ohms.
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Just a memo of interest.
Once read a Toyota tech describing the "NE" terminals are for "number of engine revolutions" - possibly for the tachometer?
So for no spark would focus primarily on the "G" contacts, presumably electronically replacing the old ignition points contact to "ground."

What was the fix?

My 1992 Camry, checked everything in ignition troubleshoot guide. (swapped in salvage yard parts) Distributor, igniter,coil,ecm. Still no spark!!!! Rotor turns, pistons up and down.

I originally had spark when checking, but lost it.

Help!

What was the fix?

My 1992 Camry, checked everything in ignition troubleshoot guide. (swapped in salvage yard parts) Distributor, igniter,coil,ecm. Still no spark!!!! Rotor turns, pistons up and down.

I originally had spark when checking, but lost it.

Help!
With everything else that you have changed, and you are still getting that code, you could have a broken wire or a bad connector from your igniter to distributor. I believe when the motor is running negative is broken at the igniter creating a high current which produces the spark to the spark plug. And then after this happens a signal is sent to the computer telling it that ignition had occured. My sons 1994 4cyl camry quit him as well and when I checked it had no spark. I put a new disributor in the car which had new pickup coils and that fixed it. Also you might turn the key on and take a volt meter and check one of the posts on the primary coil in the distributor to neg and see if you have 12 volts. The primary coil will have positive at both poles until the igniter gives it negative. With everything you have changed as long as all the used equipment was good then it about has to be a bad connection of some kind. The repair manual shows the circuits and you can always ohm the circuits for continuity. Good luck.....

ok check this out. if your not getting spark you might try the crank sensor. if the car is fuel injected it won't start without a crank signal to find TDC #1 :banghead: . once it has found tdc#1 it will engage the injectors. when you find it <probably around the timing cover> check the connections and then use the multimeter to see if your getting a/c voltage. more than half a volt at crank is enough.
if your car has a cam sensor problem it will crank and eventually start. you might also get a puff of smoke. but the car can run without a cam sensor.

Check the Ignition fuse and also the ECM fuse. Bear in mind that it has a Resistor pack that controls the Injectors
Where r u checking for spark at coil or the Wire end.

Get back we'll get u going