87 ramcharger stalls!!


jsweeter
02-08-2005, 10:57 PM
I have an 87 ramcharger 4wd 318 cid. It stalls and runs bad only when it is raining out or snowing. It is not in the ignition system it feels like an air intake problem. The truck does not have a preheater hose on it. I was wondering if the preheater hose may be the problem pulling air/moisture up through the air cleaner? can someone help me!

fredjacksonsan
02-10-2005, 08:42 AM
Does the truck run ok once warmed up? If so, it might be that the preheater opening in the intake is taking that cold, damp air into the cold engine, which would make it take a long time to warm up.

jsweeter
02-10-2005, 11:14 PM
The truck runs rough after I drive it for 5 or so min. I just put a preheater hose on it but has not rained or snowed since. It warms up like usual , does not take too long. I dont think there is a big difference if it is cold or warm

jsweeter
02-10-2005, 11:26 PM
could the damp air cause it to die?

fredjacksonsan
02-11-2005, 07:42 AM
Is the '87 carbureted? You may need to rebuild/replace the carb and I'd also check all the vacuum hoses.

jsweeter
02-12-2005, 12:53 AM
The carb on it is a new one, but it is for a 74 or something , presmog, the guy I bought it from said the smog went out and killed the carb so he got an older carb. Why would the carb be the problem?

jsweeter
02-12-2005, 01:05 PM
could it be an intermittent fuel pump , what would this do?

jsweeter
02-12-2005, 01:06 PM
I can keep the truck running if i press the pedal down a little.

BamaDodgenMX
02-12-2005, 04:17 PM
Now if this is an 87, I believe it came with all of the Great and Perfect smog "stuff" attached from the factory. Check to see if it's all there and working, and also check, or have someone check, the EGR valve to make sure it isn't stuck open.

jsweeter
02-12-2005, 11:53 PM
the truck does have the smog crap, but something on it went out and into the carb and puked the carb. The guy i bought it from said he "disabled" it , unhooked it somehow, and put a carb on it that was presmog , something like a 74 carb or something. somethin about a canister exploding in the carb.

BamaDodgenMX
02-13-2005, 09:19 AM
Ah. Well now let me ask the obvious- Are you getting any codes, or is the check engine light on? Once you get the codes, you can check them HERE (http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html) .

fredjacksonsan
02-14-2005, 07:21 AM
Since it's a regular carb, try turning up the idle screw. If it's not idling without putting your foot on the gas, check the adjustments on the carburetor. There should be a screw that moves the throttle linkage slightly; turn it (usually clockwise) until the truck idles.

jsweeter
02-14-2005, 11:11 AM
the engine light was on but now is off dont know if it burned out or what. Tried to get to back of cluster to replace light but cannot get to it. Have changed all ignition except timing chain. Once i put on the preheater hose it went off. Now have problem with starting hard takes a min and a lot of pumping the gas pedal and trying to start it . It rained last night it ran fine until i got home it seemed to be running very low on rpms, but still running . Headlights dimmed down and blowers stopped running until i pushed the gas pedal down a little. If i turn up the idle it does the same thing but also then when i turn the truck off it diesels, i have to then leave it in gear to turn it off but then still have same problem.

BamaDodgenMX
02-14-2005, 10:24 PM
ok, well your check engine light was on then- have you checked for codes? if ya don't know, all ya have to do is switch the ignition to the 'on' position twice quickly, then leave it in the on position. the engine light will flash codes, as in "blink blink pause blink" = 21. the last code will be 55, it is normal

jsweeter
02-14-2005, 10:33 PM
No i did not check the codes , did not know if that worked on an 87 or not. Guess i should have tried , any one know how to get the cluster out of one of these things. It seems like it was stuck in there maybe the speedo line holding it in. Cannot reach around to get to the bulb.

gengelman
02-26-2005, 12:45 AM
Read your thread and brought back bad 20 year-old memorys of my 79 Jeep J10 Pick-up with all Dodge electrical. I was just posting today about it to a guy inquiring about a hot-wire when it dawned on me that the stalling and no starts occurred after it rained even if I hadn't drove it. This was bad because I lived in Tampa where it rains almost every day. I replaced the computer, coil, cap, rotor and wires, fuel pump, the fuel lines, and bypassed the ignition switch. It kept happening. A simple hotwire solved it. It turned out the coil harness had some type of intermittant short that would occur in high humidity changes, presumably because of condensation and/or seepage around our inside the the coil harness boots. I ran the hotwire for more than 20,000 miles and even drove cross country without a problem. I soldered the hotwire permanently and ridded the vehicle of all push-on boot harnesses like those on the solenoid. I think I still have PTSD from this experience which has permanently jaded me towards Dodge. So of course today I just bought a 1990 Plymouth voyager. It'll go nice with my 1988 RAM pick-up.

gengelman
02-26-2005, 01:30 AM
Also check or disable the automatic choke to see if that has any effect. It should be wide open when the engine is hot. An electric auto choke terminal could be corroded or there could be moisture in the housing. Sometimes a novice like me will install a choke spring or arm backwards causing the choke to close as the engine warms. Other things that can be caused by changing barometric pressure are air being sucked into tiny rust holes or cracks in the fuel lines and around old fuel gaskets and condensed moisture in the fuel tank. Does a shot of ether do anything. You can test the carburator by temporarily bypassing the entire fuel system including the tank by buying 10 feet of rubber fuel line hose and running it out of a gas can directly to the fuel line at the carburator. The can must be positioned at the level of the carburator to prevent siphon overflow and backflow. No fuel pump needed for this test. Be careful. This is good way to incinerate yourself if you knock over the can or don't keep your wits about you.

jsweeter
04-08-2005, 10:30 AM
Hey guys i think we figured out what was wrong w/this thing. The ignition system is for a 1987 which was last year before fuel injection. We replaced the carb and distrubutor to a 1985 couple years before even thought about fuel injection. So what is happening is the newer control module is running the advancement of the distributor but the carb is doing it w/vacuum. Therefore causing it to overrun the alternator causing lower voltage, killing the motor. I know you guys said something about the check engine light, it is back on but i got it checked out and they say it is for the a/c which does not work anyway. It does die in the rain and snow but i have to rewire the ignition system anyway due to bypassing the current control mod. I have to put in a ballist resistor and an orange "HI PO" control module to keep up with the spark of the coil. So that is whats happening though i would let you guys know as this has had me stumped for 5 or 6 months. :rofl:

fredjacksonsan
04-08-2005, 11:20 AM
Makes sense that the systems are incompatable; I guess mixing fuel injection and carburetor = :nono: Glad it's fixed.

itsdave4321
11-20-2005, 06:49 PM
could the damp air cause it to die?
yes! most likely it is a cracked distrubutor cover (cost about 5 dollars). normally the naked eye cannot see the crack but when it rains moister will build up on the inside causing the motor to stop running. replace and if it still does not work look check eletronic coil for cracks also.

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