what's a good low to mid range cam?

I like crower but i don't know what kinda of cam i should run. Does anyone have a good cam setup that they use (low to mid type cam) and what is the degre you are useing?

I have now, Short ram carbonfiber intake (to much rain in FL for cold air)
Skunk2 intake manifold, DC headers, 2.5 cat back, MSD coil and wires, NGK plugs (does NGK iridan (spell) work ok in the integ i have them on my mitsu). 255 fuil pump, and B&N fuil regulator. Any help would be cool thanks.

I would say 62402's or maybe even 62403's if you want a little upper rpm increase.

Do you have any plans for ECU upgrades in the future?
I have a set of the Crower 62404's. I like them a lot and would actually reccomend them, however they are more mid to upper rpm power. But they are not nearly as rough at idle as people say they are, you just have to tune for them. When I first put them in I could not get the car to stay running, as soon as it tried to idle it went dead. ECU tuning is a must with these cams, but you will be happy with the results.
How much are you looking to spend on the setup?
Some higher C/R pistons would be a nice compliment to the 404's.

i've heard numerous good things about Toda cams. i'm eventually going to get them in my teg

what kind of car do you have? If its a vtec integra, the cam you choose would depend on where you want the power increase to be in the rpm band, how much money you want to spend and, how much upgrading you want to do to your valvetrain. Personally i would like to keep my car reliable and i would want power thoughout the powerband, so i would go with for a crowner 62402-A,you dont even need to change your valvesprings or redline with these cams since they are designed to work within the exact rpm range and the stock redline if you want to spend less money just get the type r cams ,not as aggressive as the crowner's but their great. If you want low to mid power from 62403, or 62404 crowner's as mentionned above, you'll will need to change all your valvesprings, you'll need a vtec controller and you'll need to program the ecu so that you can jack up your redline to like 9000rpm, that's very expensive. If you just install a really agressive cam in say an integra gsr and change absolutely nothing else you will actually lose power under 4800rpm, that's something you dont want, especially in an integra. That's why i would get typer or at most crowner 62402-A cams with adjustable cam gears and get it tuned on the dyno. Hope this helps!

If you just install a really agressive cam in say an integra gsr and change absolutely nothing else you will actually lose power under 4800rpm, that's something you dont want, especially in an integra. That's why i would get typer or at most crowner 62402-A cams with adjustable cam gears and get it tuned on the dyno. Hope this helps!
What do you mean change absolutely nothing else? with any new cams, even the ITR cams, it is always recomended that you get new valve springs and retainers, along with cam gears.

By "absolutely nothing else" do you mean not having springs/retainers/cam gears or what? im just confused by what you meant

well some cam upgrades like skunk2 Stage 1 it says they do not absolutely require a valvetrain upgrade... seems to me that would be suicide tho personally if you are upgrading cams u might as well do it right and replace the springs and retainers... Id be in favor of CTR cams if u can find them, you'll pass smog still.

Well with itr cams in a gsr, if you keep the stock rev limit its not absolutely necessary to change the valve springs, it wont hurt if you do change them though. Actually i'm putting type r cams in my gsr this spring and i will change my valve springs and i did get aem cam gears since i got thenm for pretty cheap. What i meant in my post by saying " and changing nothing else" i meant people that buy really agressive cams (type r are not that aggresive), and dont get a vtec controller, or fuel regulator, or ecu modifiaction to boost the redline.

Kind of off topic, but i just recieved a type r intake cam from ebay, i measured the lobe lift and i got:
0.285" or 11.2mm, i seen on websites that a JDM CTR intake cam which should have the same lift as a ITR intake cam is 0.290" or 11.5mm. I brought my camshaft to a honda specialist near my house and he said that's its normal since the jdm CTR/ITR intake cam has a slightly higher lift than the USDM cam (The jdm being 0.3mm more), is this true??

ok so i like crower, i have them in my mitsu. i like the fact i can get the spring's and retaners from the same company. i didn't realy wanna get into the hole computor thing, but it looks like i will have to. and as far as what kind of car? it in my sig integra LS. so i can just get a set of type r cames and they will give me a little more pep? i know a type r redline is like what 9000, my LS is like 6900.

one more thing i don't know about because the only motor i have built was not in the car. do i need to take the head off to do the springs? i mean if the seats are ok. i don't wanna do all that if it's not really needed.

o yeah one more thing i know i have to watch my RPM because of the bottom end too. it's don't matter if i can rev 9000 RPM if the bottom end can't take it.

OK guys his car is a LS so any kind of GSR,ITR CTR pistons will not work in his car.As for the redline question, your bottom end (assuming that it is in good shape) can be revved up in the 8500 rpm range with a Block Girdle installed. But the only cams that crower makes that are going to have power up that high are going to be the 62404's and the 62405's. The 62403's will peak out at about 7500 or so. But the 62404's are suppose to peak out at about 8600 and the 62405's are over 9000. Now just to even get the car to rev over 7000 you are going to need to have ECU work done, and no I do not mean get a Ebay chip or any other type of chip that was not burned just for your car and your car only! The best advice I can give is to get a hondata s100 and let a shop tune it on a dyno. That is the only way to get the car running right. Also with the 62403's you will be alright with the stock springs and retainers up to the stock redline, but with the 62404's you will need the matched set of springs from Crower, even if you don't go past redline. Now on a valve spring/ retainer note, you do not need and I would advise to stay away form titanium retainers. The stock retainers with the crower springs will last longer and perform just as well as the retainer/spring kit they sell. Titanium is a soft metal, while being very light and strong the retainers will gaul and pit in about 15-20K miles. Then it will be getting to that stage were they could break and send a valve into the cylinder at any moment. Just FYI ;)

Wow Thanks, You have been A big help. So Hondata is the way to go. That is what I was thinking. I guess If I'm gonna do all that work I might aswell do the vavle's to and just do it right. Damn I need to get my civic done.......

What's your obd version?, Be aware that if your integra is 96+, its obd 2 and i don't think that hondata is compatible, your gonna need an adapter harness/ecu downgrade to obd 1.

DAMN for real? i have OBD2 it's 98. well skip that, it's my d-driver, i don't wanna do all that. I have my civic for doing that kida stuff .

well wait i can do a 62403 and just up grade my v-springs right?

well wait i can do a 62403 and just up grade my v-springs right?
yep, you dont have to convert to ODB1 for new cams. but eventually i would defintely consider it. go ahead and get new retainers too.

yep, you dont have to convert to ODB1 for new cams. but eventually i would defintely consider it. go ahead and get new retainers too.

so i don't have to go to ODB1 i can stay with the 2 and get the 62403's?

just do springs and retainers.

You could even go with the 62404's and use a SAFC. I am pretty sure that an SAFC will work on OBDII cars. Sorry did not realise that your car was a 98.

You could even go with the 62404's and use a SAFC. I am pretty sure that an SAFC will work on OBDII cars. Sorry did not realise that your car was a 98.


Thats cool, so the SAFC runs like what $400.00? i'm pretty sure that it will work. i called this guy that does all honda acura stuff and he said the same thing. hey if you guys ever need any thing here is his site. his name is john.........you gotta see his crx with turbo type-R.

http://www.lhtperformance.net/sample.hondas.html

Thats cool, so the SAFC runs like what $400.00? i'm pretty sure that it will work. i called this guy that does all honda acura stuff and he said the same thing. hey if you guys ever need any thing here is his site. his name is john.........you gotta see his crx with turbo type-R.

http://www.lhtperformance.net/sample.hondas.html



They should run around $200 try looking on ebay I have seen a lot on there. ;)

thank you good sir

one more thing, i saw in another thread you have STR cam seals. Do thay work alot better? Do i need to remove the can to put them on? Where did you get yours?

(sorry for the nebie ?) just never done this before and it needs it.

thank you good sir

one more thing, i saw in another thread you have STR cam seals. Do thay work alot better? Do i need to remove the can to put them on? Where did you get yours?

(sorry for the nebie ?) just never done this before and it needs it.
Yes the STR cam seal uses rubber O rings to seal so they last a really long time. The stock units will start leaking at around 20-30K miles. All you have to do to install the STR seal is take the vlave cover off and take the last cam cap off. Then you pop out the old seal and clean up the area and just drop the STR seal in and then torque the cam cap bolts and reinstall the valve cover. Do not put any type of gasket sealer or anything on the STR seal, it needs to be installed dry.

Let me know if you need any more help with it. It is really simply to change. ;)
Oh and I got mine at a local shop, you can find them anywhere on the internet. However they will not look the same as mine, they changed the STR logo, but the rest is the same. If you want to see a pic of it look in the "how to" thread.

thank, you have been a big help.

just for your info if you look in the back of the scc mag or hondatuner, not sure witch one. there is an add for hondata that says OBD1 upgrades and OBD2 upgrades. so i guess i can use them. right?

Well i don't have vtec, it's an LS. If you keep hitting that switch your gonna fry that vtec solenoid and it can't be your bitch anymore.

Please excuse LSfrankie, no one hugs him...
As far as your car goes, there is only one camshaft for an LS IMO... Crower 62403!!!

LOL you think (needs rolmodal?)

crower is what i am gonna look into now. I am kinda thinking about going turbo.