i finally got all the parts i needed(head, all gaskets,timing chainetc.) i got the truck back wednesday form the garage and they couldn't get it running good. first of all to start it it sounds like the timing would be off cause it takes a while to start, and i have to press the gas(seams like takes time to build up pressure)just like if the timing is off or something. also if i remove the hoses from the valve cover there is alot of blowing air. they told me that the block was finished. what i find weird is that the engine ran with out any problems before with the old head on untill the chain jumped. so can it be that the chain was put on wrong. or will a bad block cause the starting problems.oh an the check engine is on.
thanks for any help

also once it is running it has barely any power before 2000 rpm. once it get into 2000-3000 it is so so. and after 3000 it pulls great. so would a damaged block run great after a certain rpm or is it just the timing that can cause that. it feels like i have a vtec. lmao oh and for the guys that doesn't know i changes the head due to warpage after overheating it..could the heat damage the block?
thanks guys

What's your fuel pressure? needs to be near 45lbs

What's your fuel pressure? needs to be near 45lbs
not sure but why would it be different from befor??

Oh it should NOT be different but something is!
Right?

Yes heat can affect the block.
When you say there is a lot of "blowing air" when the hoses are disconnected, what hoses? there should be the normal vacuum but if you block the PCV then there should be very little.
What is your compression on every cylinder?
Did you witness the work being done? head gaskets properly intstalled?

Why did it overheat? Blown headgasket?
The only thing that normally causes the "blowing air" in any engine is blow-by due to worn out rings.

It does sound like the cam timing is off to me. Without hearing the motor, or seeing it run, it's hard to tell though.

check out that check engine light first thing... see what you've got...

I was given this link recently, wonderful - might help you.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

oh yeah, I'm seeing similar symptoms, except I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with a bad knock sensor (code 52)

oh yeah, I'm seeing similar symptoms, except I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with a bad knock sensor (code 52)
it overheated cause there was a hole in the rad. the air blows out out the oil cap. ya i am hoping it is the timing that would be bad. would that cause the engine light to go on. cause a bad block won't cause a light right??
thnaks

would a bad block cause to have little power befor a certain rpm or would the power loss be throughout the rpm range.

a bad knock sensor (I'm assuming that's what you mean) would retard the timing to prevent you from harming the engine... it won't have bad power throughout the range, it mostly just won't get to those higher important rpms. : )

find a paper clip (to use as a jump wire : ) and 5 minutes and follow that diagram - as long as you can count, you'll know exactly what it's saying in no time. : )

a bad knock sensor (I'm assuming that's what you mean) would retard the timing to prevent you from harming the engine... it won't have bad power throughout the range, it mostly just won't get to those higher important rpms. : )

find a paper clip (to use as a jump wire : ) and 5 minutes and follow that diagram - as long as you can count, you'll know exactly what it's saying in no time. : )
but how and where from will it read the codes?? i am kinda confused. thanks man

oh ok i see

got it? the check engine light will blink out the codes...

let us know when you figure it out : )

The knock sensor shouldn’t cause as much power loss as you are experiencing.
I can't get past the fact that there is excessive blow-by. This is a major issue especially with an engine that just had a major performed. The codes that will be logged may well be erroneous due to the mechanical issues, air fuel mixtures that the ECU has attempted to automatically correct.
The codes are generated with a best effort algorithm assuming that everything else is sound, crank and cam aligned properly.
Blow-by, if there is an excessive amount or more than there was before the head gasket job is a mechanical problem nothing electrical/electronic will cause this. Plus running an engine with an improperly timed cams can result in more damage.
This is difficult to do without being there. So start at the basics with the items that need to be looked at without the engine running.
A quick compression check will tell you a lot, it will even explain a rough idle and blow by if it’s worn rings but you say it ran fine before.
Check the timing belt timing it doesn’t take too much work to get the covers off just the damper will require a puller sometimes.
This is the easiest: check the MAF on top the air cleaner make sure it is not binding and the rest of the intake conduit, free of blockages clean air filter.
Exhaust, how old? Not blocked? Had a muffler fall apart internally and the pieces collapsed the exit tube it caused a lot of backpressure.
Just some ideas “in the dark”
Brin R. and Angella always have good sound suggestions, so keep trying, keep asking.
Good luck keep us posted when you find out.

ya i am gonna take a look at the timig chain tonigt. hopefully it is just that. but i ahve a feeling that there is more too it. the head was replaced so maybe there is something wrong with it, i dunno. and i really doubt that the exhaust is blocked. it only has the stock resonator with a strait pipe.so i doubt that would be the problem. lol
thanks guys i will let you know what happens.

hey guys i took a look at the check engine light it i found the codes 5,6,11,12. what the heck does this mean. it can't be that good..

I don't think those codes mean anything until you have correct valve timing. Like 4Wheel said, fix the big problem (along with your ignition timing if it is off) and then erase the codes and see if they reoccur.

You'll be wasting a lot of time and money chasing those codes unless you get that engine running better. forget the codes right now, what is your compression. Reading those codes is like taking the pulse on a body with no head.

The knock sensor shouldn’t cause as much power loss as you are experiencing.
I can't get past the fact that there is excessive blow-by. This is a major issue especially with an engine that just had a major performed. The codes that will be logged may well be erroneous due to the mechanical issues, air fuel mixtures that the ECU has attempted to automatically correct.
The codes are generated with a best effort algorithm assuming that everything else is sound, crank and cam aligned properly.
Blow-by, if there is an excessive amount or more than there was before the head gasket job is a mechanical problem nothing electrical/electronic will cause this. Plus running an engine with an improperly timed cams can result in more damage.
This is difficult to do without being there. So start at the basics with the items that need to be looked at without the engine running.
A quick compression check will tell you a lot, it will even explain a rough idle and blow by if it’s worn rings but you say it ran fine before.
Check the timing belt timing it doesn’t take too much work to get the covers off just the damper will require a puller sometimes.
This is the easiest: check the MAF on top the air cleaner make sure it is not binding and the rest of the intake conduit, free of blockages clean air filter.
Exhaust, how old? Not blocked? Had a muffler fall apart internally and the pieces collapsed the exit tube it caused a lot of backpressure.
Just some ideas “in the dark”
Brin R. and Angella always have good sound suggestions, so keep trying, keep asking.
Good luck keep us posted when you find out.
ya thats true. i took a look at the timing chain and it seams to be off half a link. is that possible. also there seems to be a loose in it like when i turn the crank the cam doesn't follow right away.i would say that i have to turn the crank about an inch befor there is any movement from the cam. so can that be the problem.. also for the compression i got a cheapo from walmart, and it sux lol. i can't get it to have a decent seal with the head. i did get a reading on the number one cylinder and it was around 110. i wasn't enough place to look at the other ones(i have to get a better tester).so i would assume that the psi would be a bit higher.

Reset the timing chain so the marks all line up as they are supposed to. Also, sounds like the chain tensioner is not doing its job. Check it for binding and tension.

Reset the timing chain so the marks all line up as they are supposed to. Also, sounds like the chain tensioner is not doing its job. Check it for binding and tension.
so is that a whole other problem or could a half a notch be cause the problem

I think they are related.

Sounds like your trying to turn the engine the worng direction clockwise only. Only ever then recheck the alignment marks.

Sounds like your trying to turn the engine the worng direction clockwise only. Only ever then recheck the alignment marks.
ya i was turning it both ways . if i turn it colckwise the mark on the cam is pointing a bit towards the left. is there a way to check the chain with out looking at the links of the chain. lets say by setting the crank pully to 0 and set the cam in a certain direction.
thanks

Did you say the chain was new?
There should be no "play" in the links it's hard to actually see but there would have to be a lot of "play" to make a difference at the cam.
When turning the engine manualy always turn so the tension is between the crank and the cam not through the tensioner.

Did you say the chain was new?
There should be no "play" in the links it's hard to actually see but there would have to be a lot of "play" to make a difference at the cam.
When turning the engine manualy always turn so the tension is between the crank and the cam not through the tensioner.
ya its new. it cause i was turning the crank the wrong way. so if the crank is set to 0. where is the mark supposed to be on the cam gear

You will want to consult the manual for this for you exact engine and year. I do even when i "KNOW" then I take a picture just so when you start talking yourself into that it must be wrong all you have to do is look at the picture!

Good luck

You will want to consult the manual for this for you exact engine and year. I do even when i "KNOW" then I take a picture just so when you start talking yourself into that it must be wrong all you have to do is look at the picture!

Good luck
ya well all it tells me is that i have to ligne up the links with the marked ones on the chain. so i have to take the timing cover off. or i am gonna see if i can find anyone who know these engines well

well that is all you will need, you will find two marks on teh chain those marks should coincide with the "dimples" or "marks" on the cam and crank sprockets.