Amp pulling too much power?


BoNkA10
01-28-2005, 09:41 PM
Alright, I'm looking at possibly running around 1500 watts RMS for my sub's amp (also have an amp for the speakers, but don't currently have the wattage for that). I assume this is going to be too much for the electical system. Basically need to know what I'd have to upgrade (alternator), what to look for, and how much it would cost, as I have no idea about this stuff. Thanks.

TreeFrog
01-28-2005, 11:17 PM
i'm pulling about 1200 RMS. I have a 1 farad stinnger cap, and a brand new 3yr warrenty battery.

I also have the factory premium audio so that stock amp makes the car pull more than it did in my accord. my lights dim like no tomorrow. I'd reconmend getting either a Stinger car audio battery, or at least a 5 farad cap. And make sure if you keep your stock battery that its new and in good shape with clean connectors. don't screw around there. systems are hard on batterys. make sure you have a good one, or some day your car isn't going to start.

You don't need a new alternator, that won't help nothing. Lights dim because they suck my cap dry in a second and the battery is too far away to give them the juice they need fast enough. What's an alternator going to do? You only need those when going to a lot higher level. you could put a second battery in your trunk and still not nessesaraly need a new alternator.

BoNkA10
01-28-2005, 11:32 PM
Well I have a Gel Cell battery I had put in my old Breeze sitting around waiting to be put in the Eclipse, but I'm not sure about the specs on it.

For some reason I thought the alternator had something to do with it. And those 1200-1500 watts I should be pulling (plus the amp for the speakers) is for an amp that's between 60-70% efficient, so it's really pulling more.

soccer_aholic
01-30-2005, 03:22 PM
If you are running that much power it doesn't matter what kind of battery you get, it is still going to draw to much power and kill the battery faster then it should. what you need is atleast a new 140 Amp alternator. you could probably get one for around $400 if you look hard. But yeah get an alternator and then a good battery that will allow you to draw the power you want when you want it.

Urban_Squrill
02-01-2005, 11:20 AM
In my friends grand am he is pulling like 2500rms, he has a second battery in the back and before we put his 170amp alternator it still dimed like a bitch. With that alternator he can jump my car real fast:)

blue94eagletalon
02-04-2005, 10:31 AM
but isnt there a way to just get a bigger alternator so you will have more power and a cap?

bighauns
02-04-2005, 08:23 PM
You need an Alternator!!! Maybe get a battery but a cap is the least of your worries. If you get a cap and no alternator then the alternator us just going to try its damndest to charge the cap after you use it all. And if you get a battery and no alternator then your battery is just going to get worn down fast as well. Just get a high performance alternator number one, and then get a battery next. A capacitor will not solve your problems. You do not need a second battery in the back either, just get a proper alternator. There are units out there that produce full power at only 800rpms as well, so that is cool. The higher the amperage the better, because remember that you are not buying an alternator for only your stereo but the rest of your car as well.

BoNkA10
02-04-2005, 08:37 PM
Exactly. And I do have a battery already.

helliviknow
02-04-2005, 08:42 PM
as far as if you need a new alternator i wouldnt even look at watts. look at how many amps the amp/amps will pull. if it has a 60 amp fuse that means it wont pull mor than 60. and it prolly only goes to 60 on peaks so figure even on cars with 90 amp alternators it shouldnt go over what the alternator produces. what you gotta remember is its not drawing 60 amps continuous, only peak, and your can can produce 90 continuous.

now if its a 80 amp fuse or a 60 and 20 do the math. i used 60 for example. there is more power drawn from other accessories but i wouldnt worry about it too much. caps help a bit too.

BoNkA10
02-04-2005, 08:46 PM
The amp has a max draw of 130 amps, so I need a bigger one.

TreeFrog
02-04-2005, 10:32 PM
i really doubt you need an alternator with that set up, a new alternator is the LAST thing you do, after a second battery ect. it sounds like you WANT a new alternator. go ahead be my guest.

BoNkA10
02-04-2005, 10:43 PM
People are looking at this too many ways. With an alternator, I'm going to have my battery juiced up to run everything in the car, just not the audio. With a capacitor, yeah it'll help the audio but nothing else. And with a 2nd battery, how am I going to keep that juiced? It also isn't really helping the rest of the car.

An alternator makes the most sense in the end as it's the best all around.

bighauns
02-05-2005, 12:52 AM
i really doubt you need an alternator with that set up, a new alternator is the LAST thing you do, after a second battery ect. it sounds like you WANT a new alternator. go ahead be my guest.

AN ALTERNATOR IS NOT THE LAST THING YOU DO!!! An alternator is the beginning point on the whole electrical charging system in a car. Think about it...

If you have an amp that drains the battery, then your alternator (which in case you dont know, charges the battery) will try and try and try to charge the battery up again. If your alternator is not big enough to charge the battery as fast or faster than the amp is going to pull power then you are going to fry your alternator. The same thing goes with a capacitor, all a capacitor does is store power for when the amp really needs it. Then if that is happening all the time your battery is going to try and charge it up again.

As for the 130amps, it will peak higher than that. For example, an Alpine MRD-M500 which is 500W RMS, fused at 60A easlily hits 70-75A. So if the amp can draw 130A you are going to be draining the electrical system.

The only way to solve this issue is by going straight to the source of the electricity which is the alternator. 130A is not a small amount.

He needs an alternator, there is no question about it, do not try and dispute it. That is why people go through alternators like mad, because they think all they need is a deep cycle battery and they are set. But if it continues to die and die and die because of a lack of power then the battery is just going to get shittier and shittier along with the alternator that can not charge it.

People are looking at this too many ways. With an alternator, I'm going to have my battery juiced up to run everything in the car, just not the audio. With a capacitor, yeah it'll help the audio but nothing else. And with a 2nd battery, how am I going to keep that juiced? It also isn't really helping the rest of the car.

An alternator makes the most sense in the end as it's the best all around.

You are definately on the right track!! The only thing I could say differently would be that when you are thinking that a cpacitor is helping the audio, it really isnt, kind of. By having a cap, it will only be so useful on a system like that because of the fact that the battery will not be able to charge the cap and power the amp so you will actually be worse off in regards to audio and overall operation.

BoNkA10
02-05-2005, 12:56 AM
Yeah, I have my eye on a 135A alternator since the max draw from my amp is 130 (shouldn't go higher than that).

bighauns
02-05-2005, 05:47 PM
I had a 140A Alternator with a system that was only pushing 500W RMS and I still had dimming issues at times, very minimal though. And that was at idle. If you can find a bigger one, go for it. Because remember, you are not just powering your system but your whole car.

1stGenRocks
02-05-2005, 05:53 PM
bighauns: a cap will help your dimming issues since a cap holds extra power for when the amp hits hard. mount the cap close to the amp. you will still be draining your battery at idle though since alternators dont put out as much at idle

helliviknow
02-05-2005, 07:56 PM
even if it peaks a few amps past 130 (and it cant for too long or bye bye fuse) its not doing that untill a big bass note. its gonna constantly be spiking from way below 130 to maybe just above. even if it can draw 130 and peak at 145, its gonna average way below 130. With a 90 amp alternator, it would work intermitently. I wouldn't crank it up more more than a few minutes at a time on the stock setup. I definatly think that with a 130 or so amp alternator and a optima deep cycle (even if it does take more than alt puts out wont hurt anything for a while) you would be good to go. I'm not a real big fan of caps. They help a little on the big notes but I don't think it would do any good on a system like this if its under 10 farad. peace

edit: if you use a cap too small and go into a series of very high bass notes it can hurt you too. Because if the amp drains the cap completly not only is it drawing everything from the battery but the cap is also trying to recharge and it would be worse than if there was no cap at all.

bighauns
02-05-2005, 08:43 PM
I as well am not a fan of caps. I think they are kind of like a band-aid, they cover up the problem but really don't fix it. There are more proper ways of fixing issues.

As well, a cap will not necessarly help dimming issues constantly, because after a while the alternator is going to be straining and the cap will not be able to keep up, and then it will be even more difficult to charge it, leading to dimming issues.

But i do see what you are saying, if for short periods of time a cap may be okay, but again...it doesnt really solve it. You dont NEED a cap if you have the rest in place.

Deep Cycle Optima battery is totally the way to go though.

1stGenRocks
02-05-2005, 09:52 PM
actually with a really loud system a cap is almost neccesary. the cap gets mounted near the amps in the back and then on spikes the amp can suck all the extra power from the cap instead of taking it from the battery which is all the way in the front of the car. even with heavy guage power wires there's still loss from the distance.

helliviknow
02-05-2005, 10:01 PM
well a caps main purpose isnt even to supply raw amps. Its to maintain the voltage. When the amp is drawing really high amounts on the bass notes it can drop the voltage (diming lights). Say it gets really bad, and it drop the voltage to say 6 volts. If the amp is suppose to put out 500 watts on that peak it would really only be doing 125 or so. And that would be distorted! The cap is there because it can dispense energy far batter than a battery. It keeps the volts from spiking. But i still say with the proper battery (optima or similar) that discharges far greater than regular batterys at higher cycles and especially if its located in the trunk near the amp, a cap shouldnt be required.

bighauns
02-05-2005, 11:26 PM
Exactly. That is why there is no need for a cap until the rest of the supporting pieces are in place. A cap is most definately not the first thing that should be put in. that is what I am trying to get at.

bk_twistedyouth
05-23-2007, 01:47 AM
Well if i was you i would save the money and buy a extra battery to run off of your factory battery. It cost more but will give you the power you need, plus it will help if you run 0 gague wire. I have 2 L7 12 with a 1200.1 in a hatch back mazda mx3 i hit a 154.9

smoke121212
05-23-2007, 03:15 AM
please do not bring back old threads, you are new but if you do it again the mods will probably chew your ass out.

by the way, welcome to AF.

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