No Clue What Is Wrong?

I have a 1989 2.0L 4 Cyclinder Corsica and I was wondering if anyone else has had my problem.

It will idle just fine but once I get above 55 on the highway and then slow down to about 30 in the city it sucks. It almost sounds like it is hunting for gas and today it backfired and then died when I gave it gas. I don't know what it is and was wondering if any has had the same problem as me.

I have replaced the fuel filter and I had the throttle body and fuel injectors cleaned out about a year ago.

Any suggestions would be great.
--SilentAssassin

due a search on IAC motor cleaning. There are some really good discriptions of this procedure here. Sounds to me like it sticking.

I have already had my Throttle Body cleaned and the fuel injectors cleaned. I replaced the fuel filter about a week or two ago and the injectors and TB were done about 7 to 8 months ago. It was doing it before then and then they were cleaned and it still did it. Do you think it could be the fuel pump or a leak somehwere in the vaccuum lines? I am lost so any help is welcome and appreciated.
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

The IAC still needs to be removed and cleaned on it's own. They will carbon up badly over time. If your car does this after warming up, you might look at an electrical problem, such as crank sensor and ignition module. Both very common items to fail or act up when warmed up. Vaccum leaks can be a problem, including cracks or holes in air filter assy hose. No computer codes being set? Doubtful it is fuel pump, but that is another weak link on Corsicas. be sure gas filter changed every year or so. I have a 91 with 168K on it. runs good, but Iv'e had all of this replaced at one time or another, including transmission solenoid(causes car to stall at stops, won't restart until cooled down) since I've owned it.

I bought a new pcv valve last night and anyone with a 4 cylinder know what I am talking about when I say that it sucks replaceing because I snapped off the little adapter for the hose and no one sells any anywhere. I checked at Autozone and Oreilly's and they don't have it. I am going to look at a junk yard but I have to have a ride to do that. Anyone know where I can look on the internet and find one?

I also bought some new spark plugs and put on order a new set of wires and a new O2 sensor. I am going to replace these and if that does not work then I will be back for some more help. I am hoping it is the O2 sensor because that has never been replaced and it is only $21.99 :2cents: :2cents: but my time.

where is the IAC located? Is it hard to get to? And how much do you think it would cost to change?

do you know anywhere that has a picture of the firing order from the solenoid to the spark plugs. i think i got a couple of wires backwards and now when I start it it almost sounds like it is missing. I got it out of my garage and down to the end of the driveway, about 10 feet, and it died. I give it gas and it still tries to die as if I am almost not sending it gas. I replaced the PCV valve, the O2 sensor, spark plugs, and the spark plug wires. Do you have any idea of what it could be? Any help would be wonderful because right now I do not have a car to get to and from work and I am having to pay for gas for someone to take me very week. I need all the help that I can get.

Does the car restart after stalling? Or, does it just die because it is not idleing enough? Sounds like the ignition module and or crank sensor if not restarting. First though, if this a matter of just poor running at low speeds, try these things first. Don't rush and spend money on IAC as these rarely go bad. Look at all of your vaccum lines first. Make sure there are no loose connections. Will cause poor idel, rpms to fluctuate, and stalling. Replace any cracked ones. Clean the IAC, it is on your throttle body and require you to unhook a wire and two screws. It should be black. Clean it, but don't squeeze the spring on it. Just spray with carb cleaner and wipe with a cloth. Clean the area inside the throttle body where it goes as well. (Be sure to unhook your battery first before doing this). When installed again, start and let the car idle for 5-10 minutes, and don't give it any gas. Let the computer relearn the idle. I will check and see what your firing order is and let you know asap, but if was wrong your engine would shake badly and most likely would not run. Another thing that could cause poor running at low speed is your map sensor. Should set a code but may not. Utilizes vaccum and can cause problems as well. It is failry cheap to replace and easy. It is square and has a three wire plug on it. Again, if it stalling and not starting, sounds like ignition module or crank sensor.

This is just a suggestion. There is a plug under your air filter. This plug is part of the transaxle. You could be having a TCC problem with your solenoid. Unplug the plug that is underneath your air filter compartment and see what happens.

I have a 89 corisac 6 cylinder and it would stall after I drove it a bit. Once I unplugged the plug that leads to the transaxle case the car ran fine without stalling. One the thing I do know is that I have to replace the solenoid, because it has and affect on my speed and how hard the engine works. Disconnecting the plug won't hurt the car and is good for city driving. Eventully like I said, you'll have to get the solenoid replaced. See if this resolves anything.

I going to see if I can replace my solenoid by myself I just have to find out where is the easy place to get at it. I believe from reading some of these post on here I have to get from the driver's wheel side.

I hope this helps and gets you rolling.

i got it all running again but it still does stutter upon acceleration. it does not do it all the time. Yes it is able to restart after stalling without any problems. It is like it just lost all the fuel so it died, then i restart it and it does fine. I don't know what is wrong with it. When I went home i realized that I forgot to hook up the last wire. I had it on the plug, but it just needed pushed down all the way. I felt really stupid and I hit my head on the wall about 10 times.
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Then I got a headache...but anyway now it will run again :lol2: but I am back at the beginning of my problem. Stalling at random times without any problems restarting.
I replaced the O2 sensor, sprak plug wires, spark plugs, and the PCV valve and the adaptor for the PCV valve on my valve cover.

i forgot to say that I had a diagnostic test done by a friend of mine and he has a Snap On computer diagnostic. He ran it and nothing came out that was odd or wrong. No codes or anything...but my dumb ace forgot to have him do it before i disconnected the batter. I had already taken it off then I remembered he was going to run a check, then I just gave up and just finished working on my car...i was mad...but i didn't hit my head on the wall ths time.

Check ALL of your vacuum lines. Check for loose, cracked, or rotten hoses. Then clean the IAC valve. I think yours has the vaccuum style EGR valve on it. If so, clean it as well and I bet a lot of this will stop. If you have no idea how old the gas filter is, replace it as well. You can have the filter replaced for 20-25 bucks most any shop(if you don't, figure 200-400 dollars for a new fuel pump later). Highly suggest you pick up a Haynes manual for 15 bucks or so so it can point out these things for you. Buy that, some injector cleaner(aerosol type), some in-the-tank injector cleaner, and a gasket for your EGR valve. If your vaccum lines look old, replace them. All of this is a cheap way to try and get the car running smoother and stop stalling. If nothing else your car needs this anyway. Run the car for a while and see if any check engine lights pop up. Can deal with it then if you get one. A MAP sensor can cause some of this as well, but don;t replace it until you try the other. Even though it is fairly cheap at around 25-30 bucks, these may help.
As for the TCC solenoid mentioned eariler, it does the following - car runs OK, but when it gets warm it will sudder and stall at stop signs. Will restart, but will stall AS SOON as it is put in gear, front or reverse. If this ever happens it is an easy fix(unhook it) and go on until you can afford to fix it (at 150-300 dollars many don't). Good luck.