I have an 89 B2200 with manual steering, i want to change it from manual to power steering.
All what parts do i need.

I figure i need the
PS Pump
PS Gearbox
The hydraulic lines from pump to gearbox
bracket to hold Ps Pump and AC to engine

Do i also need the pitman arm.
Do i need anything else

Any Help Is Appreciated

When I did the same thing on my truck, I just went to a junk yard and bought the whole power steering assembly from a wrecked B2200.
Make sure you get the pump with pulley, pump and a/c bracket, gearbox with pitman arm, fluid lines and hoses, fluid cooling loop and brackets.
Make sure your crankshaft pulley has an extra groove for the power steering pump drive belt. If not, you have to get it too from the donor truck.
The gearbox already came with a good pitman arm so I just put it in.
It really depends on the condition of the used parts you are getting.
Make sure the gearbox is dry and free from traces of power steering fluid.
The whole assembly cost me $150.
It took me a four hours to install it and do a front wheel alignment with straight edges and tape measure.

Very true what 89b2200 says and I have also upgraded to p/s on my truck but I rec taking to an alignment shop $60-$80 and have it done on an alignment rack because a non p/s truck has less castor than a p/s truck to make it easier to steer. where as the p/s needs more castor so that it returns to the straight ahead position among other reasons.

That's interesting to know and could be true Mazdatech.
The caster can be increased and tweaked by adding same amount of spacers in the front of the upper control arm.
Then adjust the toe-in/toe-out using the tie-rod adjusters.

However,my wheels return pretty much straight after a turn.
I've driven mine for about 30k miles with very even wear in the front.
I am amazed at this truck because the front suspension geometry barely changes even if you drop the ride height compared to a ford ranger where the toe and camber drastically changes with ride height.

Ture true. I have done a lot of alignment work and in the alignment machine it askes u if it is p/s or not and the only difference is the castor spec when I compared the two. The returning to staight or steering to fast was an assumption on my part from prevision experiences with alignment tweaked to benefit racing and stuff.

Also good to know is castor is a non wearing angle but will cause a pull where as camber and toe are a wearing angle, and toe also causing a pull /drift where as camber can cause a pull/drift only at exteme angles.