1987 Wagon, curious no-run problem

1987 Custom Cruiser Wagon with computer controlled carb. The car used to start fine in all kinds of weather. Back in September, it started stalling after running about 5 minutes. Usually it stalled just as the traffic light would turn green. I figured the carb float was probably saturated after all this time. I rebuilt the carb, and it cured the stalling. But I created a problem. On very cold days it would not start anymore. I got a Check Engine Light, but didn't pull codes until I had replaced the carb with a professionally rebuilt one. I got the acr started one day because it was slightly warmer. I drove it around the block, and the engine kept wanting to stall. Giving it gas I could feel it hesitating. I barely got it back before it stalled again. After I installed the "new" carb, the car started up fine. A little rough maybe. I ran the car for a while, and when at idle, it just seemed that the engine was laboring very slightly. I checked all vacuum lines, etc, but found nothing wrong. I let the car idle for a while to warm up, and as I went to move the car, it stalled. It would not start after repeated attempts. I'm getting fuel to the carb, and I'm getting a spark. I decided to see what the CEL code was, and it is a 23, which is Mixture Control solenoid. I strongly suspect that this is the code generated by a fault in my old carb, and not due to the rebuilt now on the car. I will clear the codes. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm guessing that since I have spark, the control module in the distributor is OK, but I don't know anything about these computer controlled 80's engines. I sure could use some help. Thanks.

Have You Checked Your Spark Plugs,wires,and For Vacuum Leaks Around The Carburetor?

Yes, plug wires are OK, other wires look OK, and all hoses appear tight. I am getting spark. I'm wondering if I'm getting spark at the right time though.

Did a compression check on Number 1. 60 psi...way too low. Also removed distributor cap, watched rotor while rotating crank ccw. There was at least 20 degrees of crank rotation before the rotor started to rotate. Diagnosis, bad timing chain. Pulled it apart, and saw a very bad timing chain. There was probably 2 inches of play in the chain, and some of the plastic came off a few teeth. One new chain set later, and all is good.

please tell me you didnt put the plastic gearset back in if there was a steel one available! that plastic one is known to shear off again!

Just say no to plastic. I put the all metal set in. The wagon is back to doing 35 second quarter miles now! :smile: