FAQ Thread!

At the request of one of the Integra forums' more senior members, KrNxRaCer00 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=53432), I am creating this sticky thread in here specifically as a questions/suggestions box.

If you can't find an answer to your the question you have in mind in here, feel free to post it. The senior members of this forum have already volunteered to answer these questions as best as they can.

The purpose here is to prevent all kinds of different threads from popping-up, all asking similar questions. A question will be asked here once, and answered here once.

Members seeing threads with questions that might be better suited to be in here, feel free to re-direct the poster to this thread.

Any suggestions you have for the forum or for this thread, feel free to post it in here.

PLEASE: NO stupidity, and NO flames in here...I, or another mod will just delete them.

carrrnuttt -

:worshippy:worshippy:worshippy:worshippy:worshippy :worshippy:worshippy Carrrnuttt I am so glad to see a mod back in this forum. This should haelp alot.
Thankyou. :bigthumb:

:worshippy:worshippy:worshippy:worshippy:worshippy :worshippy:worshippy Carrrnuttt I am so glad to see a mod back in this forum. This should haelp alot.
Thankyou. :bigthumb:

haha...i got tired of it, so i PM'd him.

anywho...on topic.

FAQ:

Q: "what i/h/e set-up is the best and how much hp should it free up?"
A: honestly, it depends. for the money, most people are going to say that a generic CAI, with a DC sports header and some custom bent 2 1/4 in piping w/ ur choice of muffler would be the CHEAPEST way to go while still freeing up the most power possible.

however, if ur state is strict about the CARB stickers, then u'd most likely want to choose either the AEM or INJEN or bigger brands like that for ur intake, and brands such as Tanabe, Greddy etc for ur exhaust.

on our integras, we'll prolly only free up around 10-12hp IF WE'RE LUCKY (all depends on ur motor condition etc...) from these simple bolt-on's.

if u've got the money, go w/ the bigger names and keep it legal. if ur more strapped for cash, then go the cheaper route.

Q: "cheapest power"
A: The cheapest way to add power is nitrous, plain and simple. a 50 shot for around $500 shows gains that no other will for that price tag.

if u don't like the idea of happy gas going through ur motor, then turbo would be ur next bet (i'll answer more about turbo's in the next FAQ.)

if u STILL don't like that idea, then the standard i/h/e/cams/ecu would be the way to go. u'd only see gains of around 20-25hp for about $2500 tho, so its definately VERY expensive.

Q: "best teg for turbo"
A: ah...love this q. basically, the b18c1/b18c5 (gsr/itr) are both high compression motors, therefore making high boost numbers more difficult. they can usually handle around 6-7 psi (prolly only 6 tops on the b18c5), with the right tuning. the b18b1/b18a1 are cheaper to turbo and see higher boost numbers. with their lower c/r, u can boost 10-12 psi safely, and not have to build ur internals etc (still is a good idea to, but u have more room for error than w/ the others.)

Q: "how much hp stock/1/4 mile times..."

2nd gen tegs: ls/gs/rs (b18a): 130hp/125trq (until 91), then 92-93 came w/ 140/126trq. usually run low 16's to high 15's (depends on drivers)
gsr (b17a1): 160/116
fastest gsr made, runs around a 15.1-2
3rd gen tegs: ls/gs/rs/special edition (b18b1): from 94-96 142/126, 97-up 140/126 (obdI vs obdII) usually run high 15's, low 16's
gsr (b18c1): 170/128 obdI (94-96) run around 15.2-3/obdII run 15.3-4
type r (b18c5 97-up): 195/130 14.7-9

if any of these trq numbers are off, let me know, i was doing this off the top of my head.

Q: "can my car beat this car..."
A: honestly...there are too many variables to figure out (tire condition, motor condition, drivers skill, good tank of gas etc...).

Q: "differences between the ITR and GSR"
A:lets start w/ exterior:

type r front lip
type r wing
shaved side moldings
5 lug
bigger brakes
97-98 only offered in champ white w/ white rims
00-01 came in black/yellow w/ gun metal rims
stickers
muffler
1/4 in lower stock vs stock
no sunroof
lighter hatch

interior:

carbon fiber gauges
carbon fiber center console
type r shift knob/boot
type r storage lid
type r floor mats
recaro seats

motor:

b18c1 block w/ p&p b16 head
better flowing intake
2 1/4 in exhaust
molybdenum coated piston skirts
larger throttle body (62mm)
LSD tranny
shorter gear ratios
higher redline (8400)
lighter, stronger flywheel
raised c/r to 10.6:1

hrmmm...thats the basics atleast...


Q: "integra chassis codes?"
A: 2nd gen Integra coupe DA9
2ng gen Integra sedan DB1
2nd gen Integra GSR DB2
DC2 refers to VTEC 2 door Integras
DC4 refers to NON-VTEC 2 door Integras
DB8 refers to VTEC 4 door Integras
DB7 refers to NON-VTEC 4 door Integras
Rsx is dc5

Q: "wut is VTEC and wut does it do?"
A: Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 7:11 am Post subject: VTEC: What it is

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Daryl Krzewinski

VTEC is Honda's trademarked acronym for Variable valve Timing and Electronic lift Control. Put simply, it's a method of directly altering the cam profile that valves "see", so that the optimum grind can be utilized at either high or low rpm. Honda currently has three different VTEC systems for sale in the U.S., but the primary differences are: level of complexity and design purpose. Since the high performance version is the most oft discussed, I'll describe it:

The high performance VTEC system, which made it's debut in the Acura NSX, is also available on the Integra GS-R, Prelude VTEC and del Sol VTEC. Using radical cam grinds to improve engine horsepower is certainly nothing new, but the problem lies in driveability. The very aspects of a cam grind that work so well for horsepower (high lift, long overlap, etc.) do so by creating an ideal situation for a high air flow at high engine speeds. Unfortunately, what works well for that situation has the inverse affect on low speed torque and driveability. Perhaps at one time or another we've all heard the V-8 hot rod that has a cam grind so radical that it can't even maintain an idle, and the driver must constantly goose the accelerator to keep the engine running.

What to do? How about two different cam grinds, each optimized for a different half of the rpm range. Honda achieves this with a rather simple method.

Picture, if you will, one cylinder of a DOHC, 4-valve per cylinder engine. There are 4 cam lobes, each directly operating a valve (two intake, two exhaust). The VTEC system has two more cam lobes, in between each pair of the other respective sets. These two can then be our high-rpm lobes, while the other four are the low-rpm lobes.

The low-rpm lobes in this case then actuate the valves through a set of rocker arms, so that the mechanical connection can be broken if desired. The third, high-rpm lobe also has it's own follower, but it is in a freewheeling state, flopping around and not contributing anything. As our engine accelerates through it's rev range, it passes through the power peak of the low-rpm lobes. Then, at the engine speed and throttle position programmed into the computer's memory map a signal is sent which electronically opens a spool valve, which then directs oil pressure to a mechanical sliding pin. This pin locks the rocker arms actuating the valves to the follower on the high-rpm cam lobe. As this grind is steeper and higher then the other four cams it will supersede them. In a few milliseconds you have completely altered the valve timing and the engine's power band begins anew.

The obvious benefits to this are the high-rpm power associated with a radical cam grind, but with little or no negative affects on low speed idle, driveability or torque. Just changing a fixed timing engine to a cam grind equal to the high-rpm one used in the VTEC would produce an engine which is utterly gutless below 5000rpm.

Clearly, this system is intended to improve performance first, with little effect elsewhere. But such a system can be used differently, as that in the Civic VX. In this instance, the low-rpm lobes give a staggered timing, where one valve opens fully but the second cracks just a bit. This is to induce a high swirl rate into the chamber to promote better combustion, which, when combined with a computer-actuated lean burn helps to achieve high mileage. The high-rpm lobes in this engine are a more conventional grind associated with a sixteen valve 4-cylinder, to provide extra power in cases of passing or merging. The VTEC system used in most Civics (EX, Si and the del Sol Si but NOT del Sol VTEC) is a little closer to that in the NSX, etc. The difference being that this system is vastly simplified and operates on the intake valves ONLY. The exhaust valves are actuated conventionally, which reduces the effect somewhat from the full VTEC system. This is partly to reduce costs, and partly because this engine is a SOHC, and the complex system of rocker arms to actuate sixteen valves is prohibitive to the full VTEC system. The VTEC on the Accord is close in design to that on the Civics as well, optimized more for a smooth power delivery then high horsepower.

The negative effects? Very few, really. Obviously it's very expensive, with many complex parts involved. The biggest drawback is the limitation to only two "modes" of valve timing. Most engineers are still seeking ways to obtain unlimited variance of the valve timing, so that it can be optimized to any engine speed, not just high or low rpm. BMW's system approaches this method with a completely different method of varying the valve timing. It is almost infinitely adjustable *within it's range*, but alas it has a much smaller envelope between the two extremes of it's variability than is possible with the Honda system.

(from clubintegra.com)

well, thats all the basic FAQ's i can think of, feel free to add things guys.

Wow that is a nice list KrNxRaCer00 :thumbsup:

Seeing how I get so many emails ,PM's and AIM'S about nitrous I will explain about that so that hopefully any questions can be answered here :biggrin:

Q: How does nitrous work?
A: Nitrous supplies the extra oxygen needed to burn extra fuel, which creates more hp. Nitrous is 2 nitrogen atoms and 1 oxygen atom held together by a chemical bond. When the nitrous enters your combustion chambers, the heat makes the nitrogen release the oxygen that is needed to burn the extra fuel that is being supplied.

Q: What are the different types of Nitrous kits?
A: There are two basic kinds, 1 being "DRY" and the other being "wet".
Lets start with the "DRY" kits. A dry kit is a nitrous kit that supplies nitrous only into the intake tract of the motor, usually the intake pipe. The extra fuel that is needed to create the extra hp is supplied by the stock fuel injectors, the dry nitrous kit increases your fuel pressure to accomplish this. These kits are the easiest to install, but provide questionable power gains. They are good for up to 75hp.

Now lets talk about a "wet" nitrous kit. A wet nitrous kit supplies both nitrous and the extra fuel together in one nossle. This nossle mixes the nitrous and fuel together so that it becomes a mist of nitrous and fuel. Now a big difference between the dry and wet kits are that the wet kit can be upgraded to unlimited amounts of hp. There are two types of wet kits also you have a single nossle fogger and you have a direct port kit. The single nossle kits are the most common kits used, it is one nossle that is installed into your intake pipe, no closer than 6". The direct port kits are ( for our application) 4 nossles that are plumbed into your intake manifold. One nossle goes in each runner on the intake manifold. The single nossle foggers are good for 25-80hp, some have pushed alot more, but above 80hp you should really get a direct port kit it will be safer because it distributes the nitrous more evenly to the cylinders.

Q: what does NOS stand for?
A: NOS is not a term used to describe nitrous. NOS stand for Nitrous Oxide Systems, which is a company owned by Holley that makes nitrous kits. PLease reframe from typing in NOS for anything other tan Nitrous Oxide Systems topics. You can use N20 or Juice or spray etc.

Q:How big of a shot can my car take?
A: Depeding on the condition of your motor, you can go by a 20hp per cylinder calculation. This is for motors that are in good condition. So for tegs it would be 80hp. Now my personal opinon on this is that anything above a 55 hp shot of nitrous should be a wet kit, but alot of people will disagree and alot will agree. I just feel that the way the dry kits supply the extra fuel is questionable. My :2cents:

Q: Nitrous and high C/R
A: Nitrous loves high C/R. Unlike turbos and superchargers nitrous can be used on motors that have high compression ratios. But it must be tuned more percise, than if you were using a lower c/r.

Q: What do I need to do to prepare for nitrous?
A: The absolute things are non-platinum sparkplugs, doing a compression check of the motor, and making sure you timming is set to the stcok specs. For anything 50hp and under you need to also retard the timming 1 degree. For 50-75 you need 1-2 degrees retard and one step colder sparkplugs, and for 80-100 hp you need 2-4 degrees retarded timming and 2 step colder sparkplugs. Some things that will need to be upgraded to accomidate the nitrous better are an aftermarket intake sytem, header, exhaust, motor mount inserts, new clutch, better tires. For hp mevels greater than 75 you also need to install a high performance fuel pump, Walbro makes a nice 190lph and 255lph and they are rather cheap in price but good quality. An adjustable fuel pressure rgulator will also be needed with anything above a 75hp shot.

Q: Best plugs for nitrous.
A: I have found that NGK plugs are the best plugs for nitrous. Some people like the ZEX brand but I perfer the NGK ones myself.

Q: Where should I install my nossle?
A: for the single nossle wet kits you should install it approx 6" from the throttle body. For Dry kits you can mount it up to 6" away from the throttle body and as far away as the airfilter box (if you still have one). For the direct port kits you need to make sure you get a trained person to install these for you unless you ahve the knowledge to do it your self. A direct port kit installed wrong can cause serious problems.

Q: Do I need a bottle heater?
A: If you are going to be using the nitrous more than 2-3 times in one night then yes. Or if you are going to be using it when the outside temp is low then yes. If you have a wet kit the you absolutely need one. It is needed to keep a constant bottle pressure. Bottle pressure should be no lower than 800 psi and no higher than 950-1000 psi.

Well that is about all the time I have for now but this post will get longer and more information will be added. If anybody has any questions that they need ansered just PM me and I will answer them both here and pm you back with a answer.

This may not be as technical as the previous two posts but, it is something I think we can all agree on...

THERE IS NO "BEST" SOUNDING EXHAUST.

it all comes down to personal preference when it comes to an exhaust note.

And also this isnt the for sale or looking to buy section, but if you must post one in here, atleast put as much info as possible including location, details, price and maybe why its for sale.

I read a post that made me think of this.

Q: What do you consider rice?

Thats been asked a lot, so just search. Its also hard to answer because everyone has a thousand different things that could constitute ricey, and not everyone will always agree.

Seems like if you have a lot of $$ and soup up your car will not consider rice? And ppl that have tried so hard to earn "some" hard $$ for their car will consider rice? Engine parts do cost a lot guys.......

thanks guys, this thread is really helpful for all the newbies.

I think that another thing that is important and should be touched on is engine heads. (gains, types, what is best, etc. etc)

Q. Which turbo is best for my car?

A. Most people on this forum agree that a custom made kit is the best way to go. It is usually cheaper and offers more performance gains than a bolt on kit if done right. However, if you are insistent on purchasing a pre-fab kit, then Drag or RevHard have some respect around here whereas Greddy doesn't seem to get any at all.

Q. LS/VTec or Turbo?

A. LS/VTec won't touch a turbo in the power department. The amount of money that goes toward an LS/VTec conversion could be put to use in a turbo kit that will ofer much more performance gain. The low compression of the LS makes it turbo friendly over its VTec siblings. If you have money, LS/VTec AND Turbo will be nice.

Remember, forced induction is the only real way of ADDING horsepower. Everything else basically FREES UP horsepower that your engine was already capable of producing but was just restricted from doing so. If you find any inaccuracies in my post please correct me, but without any criticism or rude flaming please.

A question people PM me a lot is........
Q: Why do you think the LS/v-tec is bad for reliability?

A:If it was all that great, Honda would have done it in the first place. Submitted for your approval, my thesis on why LS/VTEC is a bad idea.

What is LS/VTEC?
Why would Honda do that?
What is R/S?
Why a low R/S is bad for reliability
What is power, exactly, and how do Hondas make it?
B Series, by the numbers
How VTEC works, and why it lives at high RPMs
Why it doesn't all fit together


What is LS/VTEC?


A quick tutorial for anyone who doesn't already know.

LS/VTEC is using a B18A or B18B block (referred to as an LS block, even though it was found in the RS, LS, and GS) and mating it with any of the DOHC VTEC heads- the B16A, B17A, or B18C. The principle is to use the larger displacement of the LS block (READ: higher torque) and mate it with the high end power of VTEC. I'm also sure you've heard of CR-VTEC, which is a very similar idea. It uses the B20Z block of the CR-V (NOT the B20A of the Prelude Si, for reasons that will become obvious later) to achieve the same effect, only on a grander scale. What you end up with is an engine commonly referred to as a "Frankenstein" setup, and it's all the rage these days.


Why would Honda do that?


So why in the world would Honda put us in such a situation- having to build these incredible motors all by ourselves? Why would they knowingly decrease displacement and torque in a car being manufactured to be faster than its lower-trimmed breathen?

Look at it, too, from a manufacturing standpoint- Honda is already making the higher displacement B18A and B blocks (blocks are identical, only difference was in the head), so why go to the extra time and expense of developing and manufacturing a separate block, especially if it will decrease output?

The answer is easy: R/S.


What is R/S?


R/S is the abbreviation for rod to stroke ratio. It is the ratio of the length of the connecting rod to the length of the piston stroke, or the distance the piston travels from the top to the bottom of its stroke. As the ratio gets lower, the amount of stress on engine internals increases exponentially, killing long-term reliability. The higher the number is, the slower the piston is traveling, killing power output.

The ideal R/S is 1.75:1 (Three cheers for the B16A, at a near-perfect 1.74:1!).


Why a low R/S is bad for reliability


A low R/S means the rod will be closer to a horizontal angle on its upstroke. This means that more of its force will be pushing the piston horizontally, rather than vertically. What does this mean for your engine? Two things.

1. There will be more stress on the sides and in the center of the rod, rather than on its ends, leaving the rod more vulnerable to breaking. Picture a straw. This is no special straw, just an ordinary drinking straw. Is it going to be easier to bend this straw by applying pressure onto its ends, or at its center? Now think of your poor connecting rods.

2. There will be more stress on your cylinder walls. Once again, the rod is pushing the piston at a more horizontal angle- right into your cylinder walls, rather than up and through them. The risk here is double: A. Putting that piston right through the cylinder wall. B. The cylinder wall will actually flex under the pressure, causing the shape to turn from a circle to an oval or oblong shape. This causes the loss of the seal created by the piston rings. What happens? A small amount of oil could slip past into the combustion chamber. Bad things happen from here: The oil gets combusted, leaving nasty carbon deposits in your combustion chamber and exhaust ports- not a good thing for flow or valve sealing.

It's also important to note that as the RPMs increase, so does the amount of stress on your engine's internals.


What is power, exactly, and how do Hondas make it?

Warning: Once you see this, you will never look at horsepower and torque readings the same again, especially after you think about it.

P= (TR)/5252

P= power, in horsepower
T= torque, measured in lb/ft
R= Engine speed, in RPMs

Therefore:

Horsepower= (torque x RPMs) / 5252

Try it- pull out a dyno and see what you get.

So from this, we can conclude that if we increase torque or engine speed, we will get more power, right?

Remember that, it's important...

Now how do Hondas make power? Our tiny little 1.6-1.8L engines aren't exactly oozing spare displacement and creating gobs of torque, are they? Hondas make power through revving, and revving high. So why does everyone place so much emphasis on creating torque? It's because all these bolt-ons you see advertised won't raise your redline, but they will increase torque. There's nothing wrong with squeezing every last ounce of torque out of your engine- you should. But trying to get torque from more displacement in a Honda is like trying to fill a swimming pool using a squirt gun. You'll never get enough for it to be useful.


B Series, by the numbers


Let's take a closer look at the B series engine blocks.

In the B18 blocks, Honda increases displacement by using a larger crank and increasing stroke (the B20Z also has a slightly larger bore, which is bad for reasons I won't go into here). This, of course, lowers the R/S, since the rod length remains (almost) the same.

B16A:
Rod length: 134 mm
Stroke: 77 mm
R/S: 1.74:1
Displacement: 1587.12 cc

B17A:
rod length: 131.87 mm
Stroke: 81.4 mm
R/S: 1.62:1
Displacement: 1677.81 cc

B18A-B:
Rod length: 137mm
Stroke: 89mm
R/S: 1.54:1
Displacement: 1834.47 cc

B18C:
Rod length: 137.9 mm
Stroke: 87.2 mm
R/S: 1.58:1
Displacement: 1797.36 cc

B20A (Older Prelude Si)
Rod length: 141.7-142.75 mm
Stroke: 95 mm
R/S: 1.49-1.50:1
Displacement: 1958.14-2056.03 cc

Now you see two things: Why Honda decreased the displacement from the B18A-B to the B18C, and why the B20A is widely regarded as a not-so-great engine. Honda decreased the displacement in the B18C by decreasing the stroke, improving the R/S. This allows the B18C to rev higher, and (Hey!) increase output.

Making sense? I bet you can see where this is going. But wait, there's plenty more...


How VTEC works, and why it lives at high RPMs


A quick crash course for anyone unfamiliar with VTEC:

VTEC stands for Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control. The premise is that at low RPMs and at idle, a less aggressive cam grind is necessary to prevent "loping." Ever hear a pro drag car staging up at the gates? Sounds like it's about to stall. It's because he's running aggressive camshafts, and since the cam is spinning more slowly at idle, the intake valve is still open after combustion has completed. That's what causes loping. At higher RPMs, a more aggressive grind is desirable. The idea is that you want to cram as much air and fuel mixture (A/F) into that combustion chamber as possible, so that when it's ignited you get as grandiose an explosion as possible. So what is good at low RPMs is bad for high RPMs. So what do you do?

If you're Honda, you invent VTEC. What VTEC does is simply to employ different cam grinds at different RPMs. A less aggressive grind at low RPMs for a smooth idle and low to mid range power, and a more aggressive grind up high to produce that high end pop. At a strategically placed "VTEC crossover point," the camshaft switches grind from the less aggressive to the more aggressive.

What determines this point? Hours and hours dyno testing and tuning. If it is set too low, the more aggressive grind will kick in early, bogging down the engine (think "loping" at 3500 RPM). Too high, and the engine is missing out on valuable time it could be spending with the VTEC engaged. So all those fools who spent on a VTEC timer running stock camshafts just so they could get their VTEC to kick in earlier- they're idiots. They just cost themselves a ton of midrange power. The stock crossover point is optimized for stock camshafts.

So when is a VTEC timer necessary? Easy- when you're no longer running stock camshafts.

If you want big power all motor, you go with one of the big players in the cam game- Toda Spec B and C, or Jun Stage 2 and 3, and you accept no substitutes. All (or at least 95%) of the 225+ all motor whp B18s are running these camshafts.

How does this relate to VTEC crossover point? Well, the VTEC grinds on these cams are so aggressive, that the VTEC point needs to be moved up- way up- usually to 6500-7000 RPM. These cams will also make power to 9500+ RPM (READ: Built motor). Run these in conjunction with high compression pistons (at least 10.5:1), and you'll have yourself an all motor wonder. And this, friends, is where torque in Hondas comes from.

Why it doesn't all fit together
So here's what we've learned:


The LS/VTEC suffers from a bad R/S, due to the fact that it utilizes an LS block with a R/S of 1.54:1.
A bad R/S is bad for the engine, especially at high RPMs
Hondas make power through revving, and high power through revving higher, high compression, and aggressive camshafts

Because of its R/S ratio, it is not recommended that you rev an LS/VTEC past 6750 RPM on stock internals- the redline of a stock B18A-B. With a fairly built bottom end, it is still not recommended that you rev an LS/VTEC past 7800 RPM.

As we just discussed, in order to get any considerable power out of an engine, aggressive camshafts are a must. In order to get any benefit from aggressive camshafts, the ability to rev the engine high is a necessity. What good is VTEC if you can only use it for the top 1000 RPM of your powerband?

LS/VTEC is a fad, and I predict that it will be all but a pleasant memory in a few short years. As soon as kids start snapping rods and putting pistons through cylider walls, they'll realize how important good engine geometry is. Add that to the fact that they're running stock cams (because it's all their engine can safely handle) and getting burned by kids running Todas, or Juns, and they'll wish they had just stuck with their trusty B18C. Like I said, if it was all that great, Honda would have done it in the first place."

wow, i read that same article.... :biggrin:
(if ur going to copy/paste an article, atleast give credit to the real author plz and edit out parts that ppl have already covered "what is vtec")

i'd have to disagree tho w/ u. i don't think of ls/vtec as a bad thing at all. has honda ever released a turbo motor from the factory? yet, how many ppl would agree that is the #1 way to produce power from our small motors.

jus because honda didn't do it, doesn't mean it isn't right. the ls/vtec can be a reliable motor IF u have it put together by someone who knows their hondas. IF u do check-ups/maintence on the motor OFTEN. it can last a long time if u do it correctly, or u could blow it w/ in a couple of months if u do a shit job.

really, don't knock the ls/vtec, it isn't jus a "fad" its too strong of a motor to be that.

foxfai:

rice has too many variables. u defend that ppl don't have the money, well if they didn't spend $200 on neons, then thats $200 saved. they go out and spend $1000 on the ugliest rims possible, then another $100 for a spoiler straight off of the boeing line-up. these ppl still are spending money, so that IS NOT a defense for them.

This is where I chime in and tell everyone here how useful this thread was :iceslolan This is the newbie place I guess, so why not just put a whole GS-R engine in a LS? Are there any limiting factors (other than money ;-) ) that would make it difficult to put a GS-R engine into a LS? Just thought I'd ask, flaming to a minimum please.

This is where I chime in and tell everyone here how useful this thread was :iceslolan This is the newbie place I guess, so why not just put a whole GS-R engine in a LS? Are there any limiting factors (other than money ;-) ) that would make it difficult to put a GS-R engine into a LS? Just thought I'd ask, flaming to a minimum please.

not that difficult, but...why not jus pick up the gsr to begin with?

each has a ton of potential, and the ls will handle higher boost numbers on the stock motor, but the gsr will end up being quicker in the end (with more money.)

really...its jus wutever u'd like...turbo with a budget, go ls. turbo w/ no budget or all motor w/ no budget, then go gsr.

A question people PM me a lot is........
Q: Why do you think the LS/v-tec is bad for reliability?

A:If it was all that .......



You have lost some respect on this article copy and paste is fine but credit needs to be given to the oringinal person like KrNxRaCer00 said.

p.s also "A question people PM me alot is....." ? No ofense but seeing how you have been a member here 2 months I find it hard to imagine that you have to deal with 1/4 of the pm's and email ppl like me and KrNxRaCer00 do. My :2cents: Also this is not a flame just an opinon.



And to add usefull info....

Q: 4-2-1 vs 4-1 headers

A: 4-2-1 headers give low to mid rpm power and the 4-1 give mid to high rpm power basically. So in a racing situation you will only be in the lower rpm range in 1st gear then it will all be high rpm range, correct? So which one would you want? Now 4-1 headers will take away some low end tq but it willnot be anything drastic, but if you are the type of pewrson who does alot of stop and go driving I would think about going the 4-2-1 route.

Q: Ceramic coated vs Stainless Steel

A: The ceramic coated headers weigh less and disipate heat better. The SS headers are heavier, but they have that "bling" look. As far as power gains they are about the same I have not seen anything showing a significant difference.

Actuall WHTTEG, I have heard that stainless steal last longer vs the ceramics that can crack more easily. I cant remember where, but I do remember hearing that...

Also...
Whats a good car to start with?
Honestly, for speed Id say a CRX or maybe a hatch. Integras can be made quick, but it takes a little more. However IMO, they look much better than a CRX.

Whats better All Motor or Turbo?

All motor is more reliable and can be quick, but is much more expensive. Forced induction is the best in my opinion. It has less limits and is cheaper. Money not being a factor you can combine the two and get an awesome setup.

How do I get X car to go Y fast?

It varies. Heres a calculator. http://www.wheelspin.net/calc/calc8.html I saw it in another thread. It uses power to the wheels I think. It is a rough estimate however, but may give you a general idea. Tires, tranny, weather, climate, track conditions and drivers ability etc. may affect the outcome as well, so try and take that into account if you can. I think that the estimates it provides are rather generous and you may need to add some time to its numbers. However, the only real way to know what a car will run is to get out there and run it.

If you need technical help, be as specific as possible and it will make it that much easier for some of the more knowledgable members who can actually help you(I'm not one of them).

yes, I do, but the guy did not leave any names, or from at least what I saw... I get about 5 pm's a day asking for advice, but I know that is nothing compared to you guys receive a day.. Sorry bout it guys..

yes, I do, but the guy did not leave any names, or from at least what I saw... I get about 5 pm's a day asking for advice, but I know that is nothing compared to you guys receive a day.. Sorry bout it guys..

hey, don't be sorry bout it man...jus want the real author to get credit is all.

as for the pm's, then u get more than i do. i only get 5-6 a week IF that. but thats over, let the thread get back onto topic...

What all is needed to do a auto to 5 speed conversion, and how much will it cost (all prices are what I would charge for the least expensive, yet high quality used parts,LS)...
-tranny(cable,under 50k) $300
-Flywheel $30
-shift linkage $30
-ECU $85
-peddle assembly $50
-axles (GS-R,Si)(none in stock) 75 ea.
-Resovour, slave cylender, cable, ect $75
-new clutch www.summitracing.com
this is an extremely difficult swap and took me 2 weekends with all the proper tools(and 2 people), and I will never attempt it again, but will ayso increase you machanical knowledge. And therefore having the ability to do futher modifications in the future

A post I have feen seeing quite a bit reacently is "What lowering springs should I put on my car?"

IMO if you want to lower your car, do it right or don't do it at all! If you want your car lowered 3.5 inches, and get out of it as cheap as possiblethen do it, but it's going to ride rough as hell(and considered a ricer).

Are the coilovers on E-bay good?

No, they are crap! they corrode, and ride rough as hell, ayso they slip and springs are not uncommon to snap due to weight.

What should I do to properly Hammer my car?

IMO 1) Bushings 2) Camberkit/Alingment 3) struts and springs 4) Swaybars 5) Strutbars

What springs and strut combo is the best?

It is all in what you like, I prefere the Eibach prosprings on Koni yellow for the bang for you buck. then as soon as that is performed, it's not nessicary for an alingment, but I hightly recomend it...

And remember that lowering your car is to increase your cornering, braking, and acceleraion performance, so what the heck is the point of droping your car 2" and having -2.5 degree camber? The suspention will make or brake a car so choose wisely....

what's the ranking (highest to lowest) of these models & difference? (also, are some not available to Canada? ex: SE, LS).

GS/GSR/LS/RS/SE/SPECIAL EDITION/SPECIAL EDITION LS/TYPE-R

For specific info on any car. HP, Tq, MPG , Weight.

http://www.autotrader.com/research/model_info/index.jtmpl?restype=used

what's the ranking (highest to lowest) of these models & difference? (also, are some not available to Canada? ex: SE, LS).

GS/GSR/LS/RS/SE/SPECIAL EDITION/SPECIAL EDITION LS/TYPE-R


i think it went like this highest to lowest~
Type R, GS-R, GS, SE, LS, RS.


and why do you have special edition listed 3 times? I thought there was only one? (SE = Special Edition) All essentially a LS with leather interior.

For specific info on any car. HP, Tq, MPG , Weight.

http://www.autotrader.com/research/model_info/index.jtmpl?restype=used

:werd:

thas usually where i'll double check a car that im not as sure about as the teggy's stats...

Q: Which is better short ram or cold air?

A: Both are going to show approximately the same power freed up.

obviously the CAI would be inducting a bit colder air than the SRI because of the location of the filter. most cai's have the filter outside the motor bay near the front right tire, compared to the sri which would induct warmer air.

they say that for approximately every 11 degrees colder u can get, u free up AROUND 1% h/p.

SRI is nice for winter/water conditions if u live somewhere that rains a lot.

Some CAI come w/ a "by-pass valve," but this doesn't even work unless the filter is completely submerged anyways. therefore...water could still get into the motor.

EDIT: wanted to add that a sri will free up around 2-3 hp, compared to 3-5 for the cai (really depends on condition of motor, how dirty ur old filter was, the temperature outsite etc...)

i think it went like this highest to lowest~
Type R, GS-R, GS, SE, LS, RS.


and why do you have special edition listed 3 times? I thought there was only one? (SE = Special Edition) All essentially a LS with leather interior.

I didn't realize "SE" = Special Edition, hence the repitition. I just noticed several people refering to these models (using the 3 nicknames) thinking they were separate models. Where I live, only the Type-R/GS-R/GS & RS exists. I assume the LS and SE were either renamed or was never brought to the west coast (Canada).

thanks for the info!

i'd have to disagree tho w/ u. i don't think of ls/vtec as a bad thing at all. has honda ever released a turbo motor from the factory? yet, how many ppl would agree that is the #1 way to produce power from our small motors.

jus because honda didn't do it, doesn't mean it isn't right. the ls/vtec can be a reliable motor IF u have it put together by someone who knows their hondas. IF u do check-ups/maintence on the motor OFTEN. it can last a long time if u do it correctly, or u could blow it w/ in a couple of months if u do a shit job.

really, don't knock the ls/vtec, it isn't jus a "fad" its too strong of a motor to be that.

Since you asked...

Honda hasn't made a turbo car because because Honda doesn't build drag racers. It isn't just because they can't figure out how they work. Road racing requires predictability and reliability. Turbo motors offer far less of both. For instance, compare how often DSM's break down compared to Hondas. And also consider that you are coming out of the apex of a turn at the limits of the car's road holding ability. You're in the gas accelerating for the coming straight stretch. Then, just before the car has settled up the boost spikes and your race rubber goes spinning (if you've never run on R-compound tires you can't understand). NA engines offer very smooth and predictable power delivery. Also, of a FI and NA engine setup puting out the same power, the NA will be faster. Since Honda makes road racers they use the engines better suited for that purpose.

Honda DID build an LS VTEC. It's called a B18C! :eek7: It's foolish to think that Honda hasn't explored all of the options at their disposal when building performance engines. I think they're doing pretty well considering they still hold the title for the two highest hp/liter engines in the world (NA) Type-R and the S2000. Honda put enough effort into developing "LS VTEC" to know that it wasn't a simple head swap. Higher rpm required a different rod ratio. So they sacrificed a little displacement, added some oil squirters and a knock sensor, raised compression a little, oh yea and added a cam lobe. That netted them a 30hp gain. That's better than most aftermarket companies can do while still keeping gas mileage, engine longevity, and noise pollution in check. Even better than that, they tweak IM's, cams, and compression a little more and come up with another 30hp! I'd say Honda did a pretty good job. And I'd also say that it's foolish for a couple of hobby enthusiasts like us to think that we know better than Honda.

That being said, the reason to modify an engine is when your goals don't line up with that of the engine manufacturers. For instance, we want more power in place of fuel economy, noise pollution, and engine longevity (maybe some, not me). So what goals does an LS VTEC meet more efficiently than other Honda engine packages? The only one that really comes to mind is a random tuner that happens to have a lot of VTEC heads and non-VTEC blocks laying around. Otherwise, a B18B turbo or a B18C NA package can still get better gains cheaper (assuming that the builder would spend the money to make a reliable LS VTEC. FWIW, the longevity of a well-done LS VTEC is 30-40K miles. Poorly assembled units will only last 10-20K miles. That's why sometimes they are referred to as race engines. Race teams don't mind blowing an engine every other week as much as the average consumers do.

Since you asked...

Honda hasn't made a turbo car because because Honda doesn't build drag racers. It isn't just because they can't figure out how they work. Road racing requires predictability and reliability. Turbo motors offer far less of both. For instance, compare how often DSM's break down compared to Hondas. And also consider that you are coming out of the apex of a turn at the limits of the car's road holding ability. You're in the gas accelerating for the coming straight stretch. Then, just before the car has settled up the boost spikes and your race rubber goes spinning (if you've never run on R-compound tires you can't understand). NA engines offer very smooth and predictable power delivery. Also, of a FI and NA engine setup puting out the same power, the NA will be faster. Since Honda makes road racers they use the engines better suited for that purpose.

Honda DID build an LS VTEC. It's called a B18C! :eek7: It's foolish to think that Honda hasn't explored all of the options at their disposal when building performance engines. I think they're doing pretty well considering they still hold the title for the two highest hp/liter engines in the world (NA) Type-R and the S2000. Honda put enough effort into developing "LS VTEC" to know that it wasn't a simple head swap. Higher rpm required a different rod ratio. So they sacrificed a little displacement, added some oil squirters and a knock sensor, raised compression a little, oh yea and added a cam lobe. That netted them a 30hp gain. That's better than most aftermarket companies can do while still keeping gas mileage, engine longevity, and noise pollution in check. Even better than that, they tweak IM's, cams, and compression a little more and come up with another 30hp! I'd say Honda did a pretty good job. And I'd also say that it's foolish for a couple of hobby enthusiasts like us to think that we know better than Honda.

That being said, the reason to modify an engine is when your goals don't line up with that of the engine manufacturers. For instance, we want more power in place of fuel economy, noise pollution, and engine longevity (maybe some, not me). So what goals does an LS VTEC meet more efficiently than other Honda engine packages? The only one that really comes to mind is a random tuner that happens to have a lot of VTEC heads and non-VTEC blocks laying around. Otherwise, a B18B turbo or a B18C NA package can still get better gains cheaper (assuming that the builder would spend the money to make a reliable LS VTEC. FWIW, the longevity of a well-done LS VTEC is 30-40K miles. Poorly assembled units will only last 10-20K miles. That's why sometimes they are referred to as race engines. Race teams don't mind blowing an engine every other week as much as the average consumers do.

I never said that honda couldn't figure a turbo motor out (don't know where u got that from,) but i agree w/ u that they believe they don't need a turbo motor'd automobile yet.

Honda has never built an ls/vtec. the b18b1 and b18c1 don't share the same block. the b18c1 and c5 do w/ the b16 head being the biggest difference (obviously internals etc, but being general here,) but i've yet to see an ls/vtec from the factory. (maybe not seeing exactly wut ur trying to say.)

You talk about reliability, thats going to be a tradeoff for ANY modified motor, simply as that.

what goals does the ls/vtec meet? its not that expensive (can be done well for under 3k...cheaper than the b18c1), and if u turbo it, then its by far a stronger motor/turbo combination than the ls/turbo. its almost like a middle ground between the c1/b1.

also, stock u have the lowend torque of the ls, w/ the topend pull of the vtec head.

no, we don't know better than honda...but we do more than they do for 1/4 times.

JDMDB7

You seem to be giving alot of bullshit to people and you are new here, dont make enemys now because you will never get any help from anyone.

I don't give out bs. And I'm not trying to make enemies. I'm not asking for help, I'm trying to offer it. Sometimes that means correcting some misinformation.

I never said that honda couldn't figure a turbo motor out (don't know where u got that from,) but i agree w/ u that they believe they don't need a turbo motor'd automobile yet.
Not accusing you. Just a bad choice of words. Sorry.

Honda has never built an ls/vtec. the b18b1 and b18c1 don't share the same block. the b18c1 and c5 do w/ the b16 head being the biggest difference (obviously internals etc, but being general here,) but i've yet to see an ls/vtec from the factory. (maybe not seeing exactly wut ur trying to say.)
I was being a little figurative. The B18A was the first 1.8L Honda engine. The GSR (B17) was developed a couple years later using the 1.8L non-VTEC as a starting point. I think this was the debut of VTEC in America, but I'm not sure about that. As they developed the new VTEC engine they realized that it wasn't just a simple matter of changing out the head. There were other things that required attention, namely the rod ratio. So as they fit the new head technology onto the block they also adjusted the bottom-end components. In the past couple years we have, in a sense, retraced Honda's footsteps. We're trying to reinvent the wheel. The reason that LS VTEC hasn't come futher than it is now is because more modification would cost more than a GSR and that's basically what you would have when you're finished. It's kind of like if after the invention of cell phones someone came along and said, "Hey, how about a 900mhz chordless phone so you could walk from room to room inside your house?" There's no point, we've already got better technology.

You talk about reliability, thats going to be a tradeoff for ANY modified motor, simply as that.

what goals does the ls/vtec meet? its not that expensive (can be done well for under 3k...cheaper than the b18c1), and if u turbo it, then its by far a stronger motor/turbo combination than the ls/turbo. its almost like a middle ground between the c1/b1.
Reliability for my motors is far greater than the expectation of an LS VTEC. I stated in another thread that I plan my engine packages around an 80K mile service life. No frankenstein motor can touch that.

GSR swaps cost $3200-$3500 with tranny. Without the tranny it's about the same as the LS VTEC or maybe a little less. And that $3000 price tag gets you an unmodified LS VTEC which means maybe 15 more whp than a GSR. The service life of a GSR can easily be 150k miles. That would take 3 LS VTECs to get that longevity. All of the sudden you're at $9000 for an extra 15whp and the same engine life.

As for LS VTEC turbo, compare apples to apples. If I had $6000 I could build an LS that could handle 25+ psi that could waste a frankenstein turbo that would only be able to boost 8-12psi without blowing up.

It is middle ground, but at a price comparable to a GSR. And at the end of the day you still have an LS tranny. That's a problem.

also, stock u have the lowend torque of the ls, w/ the topend pull of the vtec head.

no, we don't know better than honda...but we do more than they do for 1/4 times.
Since you can't rev as high as a GSR that topend addition doesn't help you out as much.

Agreed. Honda definitely isn't a straight line company. And fwiw, I look at the world through road racing glasses as well.



I didn't bother with smileys, but you should all know that I didn't write all of that in an arguementative tone. It's merely a discussion. No ill will intended.

nono, i didn't take it as a bad thing. i like someone w/ an arguement and an actual intelligent rebutle.

as for the b17 being the 1st VTEC motor in america, nope. the 1990 NSX rocked the V6 VTEC motor. hence, it was actually the 1st introduction of VTEC to the american world.

an ls/vtec is a much more aggressive approach to straight line racing, but i think its positives CAN out-weigh the negs. a stock ls vtec can be putting down 170-180 to the wheels, compared to 150-155 for the gsr (obdI gsr that is.)

i think we both can agree it isn't a motor that should be taken lightly, and most of the time, i'd suggest that a newbie stay away from it. it requires a lot more work, yes, and it MUST be kept up, or it will goto shit. but MOST turbo motors will not run to 80k. most will have an expectancy of around 40-50k (if driven hard.) if the ls/vtec was driven daily, it very easily could reach the 80k mark, if kept up and not beaten on constantly (which is true about stock motors as well.)

no, it IS not as reliable as a stock motor. no motor put together by us lowly honda-heads will EVER be as sturdy as the OEM ones. but i think ppl over-emphasize it's weakness. it can be a reliable motor, ppl jus need to realize that it isn't a normal motor from the factory and it won't take the abuse a stock one will.

i've seen ls/vtec swaps w/ an s80 tranny (b18c5,) for under 3k. thats a stronger motor AND stronger tranny for less than the gsr (numbers-wise, not talking about reliability)

the arguement about the ls/turbo being faster than the ls/vtec turbo really doesn't only pertain to the ls/vtec. w/ only 6k to spend, that ls motor would be faster than a b18c1 OR b18c5 turbo'd motor. the motor simply takes more money, but in the end, has greater potential than the ls/turbo ever could. i do agree if turbo is the route and money is an issue, a stock b18b1 motor is the way to go (i'll never argue that.)

the ls/vtec can be build to rev, simply takes time/money to do. its all about the build (just like reliability is.)

side note: i look at it through the same glasses...ITR com'n now, there's no other way to go :biggrin: .

Here's the only dyno I could find of a "stock" LS VTEC.
http://www.importreview.com/dyno/1.8/uslsvtec6.jpg

This is a great site that I just found with tons of B-series dynos on it.
http://www.importreview.com/d_1.8.html

There are other LS VTECs on there that make more power, but they have upgraded pistons and cams. Keep in mind the same upgrades can be made to a GSR for better power. The dyno posted above is what you would get for $3000 if you built the motor correctly. You could do it cheaper or you could get upgraded cams/pistons for the same price, but then your reliability is going to suffer. I'd give that dyno an engine life of 50K. But pretty much any shortcuts for that setup will quickly drop you under 20K miles.

There will always be a huge debate about whether turbos or NA is more reliable. I see it this way, if you have an NA 12:1 engine you're going to see 10:1 dynamic compression on every single compression stroke that the engine makes. On a turbo motor your max dynamic compression may be around 11.5:1. But you will only have dynamic compression that high 50% of the time on a race day and 10-20% of the time for daily driving. I feel that the turbo motor is actually putting less stress on the components.

Before you say that I contradicted a previous post, for road racing I was referring to the NA reliability *during the race*. Turbos have more little things that can go wrong, but in general will put less wear on combustion chamber parts.

Coming from another performance angle, the LS doesn't have to be merely an LSVTEC or turbo platform. If your power goals are 170whp or less you can cam the engine much cheaper than an LSVTEC swap. A Crower 62403 swap can get you to 155whp pretty easily with just the basic bolt-on support. That's just as good as a basic (and reliable) LSVTEC setup for under half the cost!

ok, well...lets delve deeper into that website.

on the same site, it shows a gsr w/ i/h/e and cams putting down 173.

then if u scroll down, there is a lsvtec w/ only i/e and cams putting down 185. this sorta goes against "put the same money into the gsr, and u'll have more power..." it CAN be stronger, but it depends on each motor. as we both know, some motors are simply manufactured better (either ls/vtec or oem.) they are pretty even motors overall, unless u can show me a link on that site (since u brought it up) that shows me the gsr making a lot more power from the same mod's.

i understand not all ls/vtec's are going to be as strong as the one's on this page w/ only those mod's, but then look at the ls/vtec w/ the b18c1 head. its putting down over 200 hp w/ only a free'd up exhaust and cams. there are no gsr motors that come close to these numbers. yes, some of the numbers are closer than these, but...is there one n/a gsr motor stronger than the top ls/vtec motor on that board (usdm)?

even the greddy turbo @ 7.5 psi only puts down 205.5 w/ a down-pipe. that is hardly more than the basically STOCK ls/vtec w/ a b18c1 head.

as for the ls motor. so u buy an ls motor (around 1k...) simple bolt-ons are going to cost u upwards of $2000-2500 (to go from 120 up to 155.) i'm not seeing how it's half the cost here? even to get to the 140 to the wheels mark that the LOWEST ls/vtec is making stock...to gain that 20 hp, ur looking at over $1500 in mod's. how is that half?

i'll allow one more post from u to respond to wut i jus wrote, then we need to change the subject. feel free to list all the things that can go wrong w/ one, and the con's of it. BUT after that, PM me if u'd like to further debate this.

plz...others feel free to add other things (since we sorta took over the thread.)

I don't really have time at the moment to spend an hour writing out an end-all be-all post on LSVTEC concepts, but I'll make just a few more points.

I would have been happier if that site had more straight VTEC head swaps without the upgrades. That would have given a little better idea about what just the head does. It's also of note that different VTEC heads (B16/B17/B18C1/B18C5) will all yield different compression ratios when mated to an LS block.

I didn't go back and review the dynos on that page, but there are two key things to note about those LS VTEC charts... Adding Pistons is a $1000 option. So throw out any graph with that upgrade. Second, An LS VTEC should not rev past 7000rpm unless it's been sleeved (another $1000 option) so you shouldn't look at power gained after that point...unless you want to submit that the engine will only last 10 or 15K miles. In which case, I'd throw it out anyway since it's not really practical for a street car.

If you do want to compare a $5000 LS VTEC to a GSR you would need to find one with a cam upgrade and a full Hytech exhaust system. That's what I would do with $2000 and a GSR. And the reliability would still stretch into 150K+. The Hytech system alone has been know to pull 30whp out of a near stock B18C. BTW, if you're in the market you should look into this system for your R. It's by far one of the best parts that you could ever bolt up to your car.

As for modding an LS... Assume both cars are prepped for head modification. I mean that they have intake, catback, and piggy backs already in place. Whichever direction you take, you'll need this stuff. From this point a basic LS VTEC conversion is $3000. That $3000 buys you, basically, the graph posted above. Or $1100-$1200 will get you the Crower 404's with springs installed and tuned for roughly 155whp. A moderator from anothe Honda board did this mod a few months ago and got 170whp with the same basic setup.

Let's also not forget that whp doesn't win races. I am confident that your car slightly modded would have no trouble with 85% of the moderately built LS VTECs out there. The Type-R has smooth power delivery with a good curve. These frankenstein motors aren't quite so flowing, and the powerbands can be peaky instead of broad. And even beyond that, poweband shape doesn't even give the whole story. The very nature of the construction of these engines throws off the well-balanced relationship of the various components. That can cause parasitic losses in transient response that don't show up on dyno horsepower ratings.

I think it would be helpfull if someone would make a list of all comon terms used to help out the super newb's, i know what most of them are but some may not know TB stands for Throttle body and what not. so if a list was compiled and added in the F&Q's i think that would be very helpful, thanks

-i/h/e=intake/header/exhaust
-s/c=supercharge
-t/c=turbo
-n/a=naturally aspirated (non-turbo/supercharged/nitrous motor, think all motor)
-FI=forced induction (turbo/super/nitrous)
-teg=integra

hrmmm...those are the basics. feel free to add to them.

ITR = integra type R
CTR = civic type R

SRI = short ram intake
CAI = cold air intake

TLC-tender loving care
Rex-CRX
CRV-tec -B20/v-tec head frank motor
RHD-right hand drive
JDM- Japenese Domestic Marker(Just Damn Magnificent)

I am new to this forum. I am trying to figure out exactly what I need to change my Tranny into a manual. hence where can I get all the interior parts and how hard it is to install the linkage. I have some friends that will help me out but mostly I want to tackle this myself. I want to just put a regular old LS tranny in. I am not looking to spend alot but want to make sure this gets done. I plan on upgrading the motor but for now want a Manual shifter. I would also like to know if there are Air shifting kits available for Integra's. Thanks alot. let me know something ASAP as I want to get this out of the way for the summer.

what about OT what the hell does that mean ??

TLC-tender loving care
Rex-CRX
CRV-tec -B20/v-tec head frank motor
RHD-right hand drive
JDM- Japenese Domestic Marker(Just Damn Magnificent)
be careful with using Rex, its a common term for the WRX.

OT means Off Topic.

I don't see an OT in my post...I just want to change my Integra from an Auto to Manual shift and possibly add an air shifting kit if they are available. if you could give me some info on a link to go to or how to go about this then let me know. Thanks!

And you drive what year integra?

I have a 94 Integra RS

You are going to need a pedal assembly, clutch resoviour, clutch mastercylinder, the line that runs from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder, the tranny, new tranny mounts, new ecu P75 OBDI, shifter, shifter boot, the plastic trim around the shifter, shift linkage, and I think new axles as well. You need to find a donor car in the junk yard and strip it of anything connected to these parts etc.

You don't nessicarly (can't spell worth a shit) center console. I have done the swap and it is bunches easier to just buy a new car.

good thread highjack integra_believe, not to be rude, but this is the Frequently asked questions thread, as your question in the actual fourm area

Ok sense I saw this topic in another forum and it never got answered I assume nobody knows this so here goes.

CR defined

Ok so you have 11.0:1 CR well what does the numbers stand for?
The first number is your chamber volume at BDC and the 2nd number is your volume at TDC.

So what does this mean?

Well a simple short answer is: The higher the first number the more the air/fuel mixture will be compressed, which will equal a cleaner burn which will increase HP. The higher the first number is will alsoincrease cylinder pressures too as a result of the air/fuel mixture being compressed more.

But you can only get so high a compression on street gas. Any higher could result in detonation, because the high compression rate could result in premature/spontaneous ignition, which is why GSRs must use atleast 91 octane gasoline, while LS/GS/RS/SE can get away with 87 or 89.

Yeah the limit is around 12.0:1 with really good tuning and more like 11.5-8:1 for safety.

But you can only get so high a compression on street gas. Any higher could result in detonation, because the high compression rate could result in premature/spontaneous ignition, which is why GSRs must use atleast 91 octane gasoline, while LS/GS/RS/SE can get away with 87 or 89.
91 Octane is Premium right?

91 Octane is Premium right?

In some states it depends on where you live here we have 87,89,and 93 most common and sometimes you can find 99,101 but it is $4.xx a gallon :sly:

hmm, thinking about when i went to the gas station the other day premium was 87 . but under it it saidsomething like +2.. odd?

(i have a 98 eclipse GSX, it needs to run premium)

hmm, thinking about when i went to the gas station the other day premium was 87 . but under it it saidsomething like +2.. odd?

(i have a 98 eclipse GSX, it needs to run premium)

Cali gets screwed over man(assumin thats where you're from, cause i am) I've only filled up ONCE with 93, everything else has been 91. I heard its thanks to all our rich folk who like to make sure their Bimmers and Benz's all get the good stuff. There are just too many with LA, Friso Sac Town, you name it. Anyways, its about 1.99 a gallon for 91 where I live. I'm pretty sure they're working on some additives that are more environmentally safe, cheaper and also increase the octane rating.

So if you have Nitrous, turbo, or any other forced induction, use the highest quality gas you can get.

I am a newb here, And I am so anxious to post a couple of pics in my signiture, and I would like to know how this is done.

Also a newb here, but I do have a copy of a list of abbreviations from another place I frequent...

AFAIK = As Far As I Know
AFK = Away From Keyboard
AIM = AOL Instant Messager (a chat thing)
AOL = America On Line, a vast wasteland
BBL = Be Back Later
BRB = Be Right Back
BBIAB = Be Back In A Bit
BTW = By The Way
Bench Racing = trying to claim a victory based on specs in magazines
ECU = Electronic Control Unit - the car's 'computer'
Flame = Angry and insulting response to a question given online; some people consider it an artform.
Gag = Remove posting priveliges from a user
GTG = Got To Go
Heh = The line is to be considered delivered with a laugh; used to indicate IT’S A JOKE!
HTH = Hope This Helps
IANAL = I Am Not A Lawyer (I dunno, it sounds to me like "I'm ..something..)
IIRC = If I Recall Correctly
IMO = In My Opinion (which most things here are anyway)
IMHO = In My Humble Opinion
KISS = Keep It Simple, Stupid (words to live by)
LMAO = Laughing My *ss Off
LOL = Laughing Out Loud
LTFD = Learn To Friggin Drive! -
OBD = On Board Diagnostics - a standard for the computer codes that the EEC spits out.
OTOH = On The Other Hand
PEBCAK = Problem Exists Between Chair And Keyboard
PIA or PITA = Pain In The A**
PM = Private Message (from the Prime Minister?)
Rice = cars (and their drivers) with lots of 'decorations' that pretend to be fast without actually being fast.
ROFL = Rolling On the Floor Laughing
ROFLMAO = Rolling On the Floor Laughing My A** Off
RTFM = Read The Friggin’ Manual
SWAG = Scientific Wild *ssed Guess (is that an oxymoron?)
SWAG = Stuff We All Get (goodies given away at events, e.g. Stickers - aka "Booty")
Troll = Someone who posts inflammatory remarks just to start an argument - best left ignored.
TTFN = Ta Ta For Now
TY = Thank You
WAG = Wild *ssed Guess (also what most things are here)
YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary (i.e. "Don't blame me if it doesn't work for you")

i.e. = Illustrative Example
e.g. = Example Given
"Time for a new keyboard" or "You owe me a keyboard" = that was so funny I spit my soda on the computer

Using letters and other 'netspeak' is frowned upon:
'4' instead of "For"
"ur" instead of "you are"
"OIC" and "C-U L8R" are right out.
Mostly they are just lame, and make you look like a 12 year old.

Typing slang words gets into a grey area;
"Ya prolly don' wanna do dat too much, m'kay?"

BTW & OTOH, IMHO go easy on the acronyms; KISS, OK? YMMV. GTG, BBL, TTFN TY, HTH.

It's ok to have a signature, but if it's bigger than your post, you might want to rethink it.



Now for more newbie integra questions:
Can somebody sort out all the alphabet soup on the motor descriptors?
B18 = 1.8L, I get that.
But which ones are Vtec? Which ones mate to which vehicles, Which ones require specific transmissions, ECU's etc?
Thanks!

i have a question about the very first pic posted by KrNxRaCer00, with the bunch of integras Type R's in the "post ur tegs here..." post, since it said no replies there, i'll ask here.

the first row with the red head lights Left end and the Right end with the carbon hood/white car in the same row.

I want to know if the Front lip on the black hood/white car teg is the same as the one with the red head lights because the front bumper is different.

my '95 front bumper looks like the carbon hood/white teg and i want a front lip, so will they fit on mines? i have the sedan model