This has only happened once, but that is enough for me. I was beginning to accelerate after having applied my brakes and my vehicle started shuddering. I had a long ordeal with my transmission being replaced and thought it might be going out again. I took my foot off of the accelerator, then tried to accelerate again and all seemed well... for a couple miles on the highway. My vehicle started shuddering again, so I pulled off into the emergency lane. My vehicle stalled before I even came to a complete stop. I rolled up my electric window to make a call and cut on my hazard lights. Then, I turned the ignition switch on to roll down my window and could not get the window to work. The hazards were still flashing and the clock came on. I tried starting the vehicle, but nothing happened. I tried this a few times with no luck. Several minutes later, I tried to start my vehicle again. It started this time, but sounded very rough. Determined to get off of the side of the highway (I was only a mile from the next exit), I revved the engine several times and pulled out into traffic and accelerated with no problem. Does anyone have a clue as to what happened? I've only driven it short distances since then with no problem, but I don't trust my vehicle anymore. I have noticed a strange little moaning sound when my vehicle shifts from first to second. The sound seems to be coming from inside the engine compartment behind my stereo, which doesn't pick up radio stations anymore.

It sounds like your torque converter clutch solenoid is acting up this will cause your car to stall like a clutch not working in a manual trans. Not sure about your electrical problems . If it happens again put it in nuetral when it shudders if the shuddering stops it is most probally the TCC.

Thank you for responding! I've had a few incidences where my vehicle has downshifted when I felt it should not have. Would this, too, be a symptom of a bad torque converter clutch solenoid? Is there a fool proof way to diagnose a bad torque converter clutch solenoid? My transmission is still under warranty, which is good for me, but if it is the transmission, I will be hoppin' mad! Long story on the rebuilt transmission and $1925.40 and 8,000 miles later, I am still bitter. Grrrrr!

Newest development: picked up Jeep from being serviced... had new exhaust manifold installed. The mechanic coudl not get the Jeep to act up. While driving on the highway, my vehicle had a brief burst of shuddering. I let off of the gas and resumed accelleration without incident. I exited the highway and drove a little... maybe a quarter of a mile without stopping. I slowed to a stop on a low uphill slope and my vehicle started sputtering. I put it in neutral and revved the engine until I could pull into a parking lot. Once I put it in gear and started moving, all was well. Does this still sound like the TCC?

My vehicle has been doing ok for a couple days. I was coming to a stop and it shuddered and stalled. Then I could not get it started. It would turn over but not start. I finally got it started by depressing the gas pedal, but it acted liek it wanted to stall again. I drove it into a repair shop across the street. The technician said it sounded like the IAC (I think that's right - little thingie near the injector), but that wouldn't make sense if it shuddered on the highway while the accelerator was depressed. I've taken it to the transmission shop and they drove it around and could find nothing out of the ordinary. Could this be a fuel pump? Any other ideas?

after first reading this to me it sounded really similar to my shuddering then stalling which i believe is my IAC, but i haven't ever had it still while driving, only when idling... i also have the low moaning sound at 1-2 shift,, if its IAC, i would direct you toward dksob, he seems to know alot about the IAC

Did you replace your IAC? It looks to be a fairly simple replacement, but I don't want to replace it if that's not the problem.

i haven't yet replaced it, it doesn't give me much trouble, if i had the time and the spare money i would, but apparently its really easy to replace, just 2 screws to take out an eletrical cable and then disconnect the battery also

KT - does the shuddering/stalling happen under low foot pressure or any pressure?

The first time it happened, there was moderate foot pressure. The other times, there was no foot pressure. I was coming to a stop. None of the technicians I've spoken with have really been able to figure it out and it won't misbehave while they are driving my vehicle.

well the no foot pressure and stall I would associate with IAC, but if it happened with pedal pushed then it couldn't be the IAC.

Is the Throttle Position Sensor a complicated replacement? And, you don't think the fuel pump could be the culprit?

TPS - is not hard to replace (2 T25 torx bits scres holding it on and a 3 wire electrical connector). but I don't think it's the TPS, if the TPS was bad it would cause you to lose power to the engine but not stall, just no reaction from the pedal.

It could be the Fuel Pump - but when the pump goes bad, it will overheat and shutdown, and won't ussually start right away (have to wait a few minutes before it will start) - this is also goes for the ignition coil.....

Have you tried to clean the Throttle Body?

the 'Breif burst of shuddering' could been caused by a bad TPS.

I have one more question (I wish I would have read every post you had before making any statement) Did you notice how much fuel you have in the tank when this shuddering/stalling occurs (I'm not saying it was empty).

It does seem to drive a little sluggish. I have had to let it sit a little while before getting it started. I don't recall the fuel level for the first two times, but I did have a full tank yesterday. The fuel filter was changed last Spring. I have not cleaned the throttle body and would not know how to begin to do that. When I had my vehicle in the shop for the exhaust manifold, the starter and charging systems were checked and found to be "good."

if it stalled with a Full-Tank of gas, Then I don't believe the problem to be the Fuel Pump.

to clean the throttle Body: there are 2 ways 1 is to get a can of Throttle Body Cleaner, and start the engine and run it at high idle and spray short burst of TB Cleaner into the TB (short burst so it does not stall). but the most effective way would be to remove the TB (4 bolts, a couple electrical connectors, and some cables) not hard to do, you may need a new TB gasket tho ($1.50 for a new one) but most of the time you will not need one - then remove all the Electrical units (TPS, IAC, MAP) and clean it thoroughly, along with all the ports. On the 4.0L engines you do not need to worry about removing the MAP Sensor (I believe it is located on the intake manifold itself, 5.2/5,9L engines it's located on the throttle Body).

I think that is way beyond my capabilities. I don't have enough testosterone. ;-) I need to get my oiled changed. Should I just let the oil change place do it for me? I had it done a long while back. I know they'll charge me a pretty penny, but there are few options available for me.

so whats the status of that the droning moaning sound shifting 1 to 2,,, what is that?

I haven't a clue about the moaning sound between 1st and 2nd... have you had your transmission rebuilt?

I put my vehicle in the shop today. I am going to let them take a stab at it. I mentioned the moaning to them. It had been very consistent, but now seems to come and go. For now, I have a rental that smells like a stinkin' cherry. Ick!

This is kind of aimed at dksob81... your question sparks an interest in a problem I am having... when my 98 grand cherokee gets down to the last 3 to 5 gallons of fuel it will stall, but only when turning left. The sending unit has long been out but i keep track of what I put in and use the odometer. I keep leaning towards the fuel pump, but am almost convinced that something is physically loose at the pick up since this only happens when the gas is low and i turn left. any insights, anyone?
i plan on tearing into it this weekend.

I saw your post and thought I'd give an update. I left my vehicle with a service center for two days and nothing was found. They hooked it up to computers, tried to retrieve codes, drove it around (almost 40 miles) and nothing. I drive a quarter mile after picking it up and get shuddering again. I am convinced it is the transmission. It just doesn't feel like it wants to move forward. I left it with the transmission shop today and told the technician who rebuilt my transmission to drive it home and drive it around as much as he wants. It has a full tank of gas. Hmmm... I should drive by and see if it's at the shop. Hehehe! I have this great minivan to drive around town now. I'm paying compact car price for it since nothing was available. How lucky is that?! I will keep y'all posted on my findings.

no ive never had my transmission rebuilt

RBrandon - have you tried replacing the gas cap, the whole turning left - stalling thing has been attibuted to the gas cap going bad. I have seen this happen with three ppl, and replacing the gas cap did the trick. I would also like to NOTE: that someone did replace the gas cap with a MOPAR and it did not solve his problem, not trying to discourage from MOPAR (I don not know what brand of Cap the others used).

my first encounter with this problem was with a women who was having the same problem and she asked me for some advice, and as most of you are I was lost, could not figure out what the problem was, the only thing I could of think of was wiring was bad and while making left turn it was grounding out causing the fuel pump to shutdown. well she replaced fuel pump and had wires checked they were all fine, well that didn't help the very next day it stalled again... I was plumb stumped, couldn't figure out what could possibly cause this to happen.
Well it was time her inspection ran out so she had it inspected and it failed the SMOG test, they traced it back to a loose/faulty gas cap, after she replaced ther Cap her LEFT TURN/STALLING problems were solved.

Thanks a million! you are the second kind person to respond quickly to this issue with the same suspicion. I will pick one up tomorrow (not mopar) and let you know how it turns out in a couple of days when my fuel level gets back down low. i can kind of see where the fuel in the bottom of the spout would hold some suction and then when you bank left it would rush away leaving the entire fueling spout open to let out pressure. I feel silly for not thinking of it, yet strangely happy that it's a cheap fix. thanks again.

Your Welcome - Thats what we're here for.

Bad news... the new cap didn't work. I got the usual left turn, 'almost stall' this evening. I do remember in the past that there was a distinct hiss when I would open the cap and I haven't noticed that lately. So if tank pressure is an issue perhaps there is still a leak somewhere. I will check the bypass hose, main refueling hose, etc this weekend and report back. I also remembered that I cracked the charcoal canister over a year ago when I hit a deer taking my wife to the hospital with our 2nd born son. I don't remember if the problem started around that time or not and i am not sure that it would make a difference since to my knowledge the canister isn't really pressurized. (once again, correct me if i am wronge...)

well sorry to hear about the mishap (dear incident). It could be the EVAP CANISTER. there is also a big thing about the O-RING on the fuel pump assembly going bad, this could be you problem.

Here is an update: I got my vehicle back with 130 additional miles on it. They could not get it to shudder, although it did lose power then pick back up once. The transmission tech scanned the compter for codes and found a code 11 - engine speed sensor. That was replaced for the cost of the part, $100.38. Also, the transmission tech said he added some fluid that would help with shuddering and help the clutch engage more smoothly. He said, too, that when the exhaust manifold was replaced, it was touching part of the engine and making a racket. They adjusted it. My vehicle does seem to drive better, although it still idles a little rough. I still have the moaning between first and second gears. No one has been able to figure out the origin of the sound.

I have seen alot of trouble with stalling not starting and hesitation and little on the coil as a solution. I have owned a 94JGC for 7 years and the coil 2wire plug gave me 3 years of trouble before detecting a cracked wire/plug.

Whato sort of trouble were you having when you discovered the cracked wire/plug?

first time was low on fuel, 6mnths after purchase.had every sign i was out of fuel.had spark but no fuel. (spark was there but not hot enough). i bought a new coil and it started right up, few months later driving home from work had to get towed home, everything pointed to the coil wires looked good, after buying another coil was good for a mnth, started having hit and miss trouble starts and stops. final straw heading back from kentucky with 3000# camper it stalled on freeway for no reason had to call friend out how had same vehicle used his coil it started. all the while wires looked good.after buying 3rd coil found wires in the rubber connecter were loosing connection.this was also somehow shorting out coils.bought ford coil and spliced wires had no trouble since. sorry so long.

Thanks! I'll have that checked and ruled out. It seems to be doing better, but the trust is gone. It may be time to re-Jeep, but I've enjoyed having no car payments and low property taxes.

Did you ever correct this problem?

I have exactly the same problem....

JGC 1997, 5.2l with 200K. Transmission and Torque converter
refurbished 1 year ago.

Regards,

Alex

Interesting, I have the same problem, re - power stuttering while under acceleration to the point of stall out, and have noted that
my CD player is extremely hot when this happens.

Could it be an electrical problem or arcing problem. Does anyone know whether there is any control circuitry that runs close to the radio/CD player?


However, I have tested with radio/CD turned off, and problem persists.


Hmmm the mystery remains....

Here is what I posted on 2/05/05:

"Here is an update: I got my vehicle back with 130 additional miles on it. They could not get it to shudder, although it did lose power then pick back up once. The transmission tech scanned the compter for codes and found a code 11 - engine speed sensor. That was replaced for the cost of the part, $100.38. Also, the transmission tech said he added some fluid that would help with shuddering and help the clutch engage more smoothly. He said, too, that when the exhaust manifold was replaced, it was touching part of the engine and making a racket. They adjusted it. My vehicle does seem to drive better, although it still idles a little rough. I still have the moaning between first and second gears. No one has been able to figure out the origin of the sound."

Everything seems to be fine so far. I had my injecters cleaned and that has made a big difference in the idle. I still have the moaning between first and second and I've noticed a new high-pitched sound, but I haven't been able to isolate it. The engine sounds a little like it is knocking now, too. I think I'm driving on borrowed time!

Where you going up a hill? It probably gives you a whining sound like it is coming from right behind the fan. My jeep made similar sounds, and would suddenly start shuddering when I would go up hills, and eventually lose RPM's and stall. I found it was the fuel pump, mine was operating at 20 psi. it sound be at 40, have it tested. With it making sounds shifting from 1 to 2nd I really don't know. i hate 93-1999 jeep transmissions, too small.

Thanks for the insight.

Will have injectors cleaned and fuel pump replaced.

Will also put on new Mopar gas cap.

As last resort will take back to tranny shop for further tinkering.

Will post results.

Alex_one,

if you are asking me, (these multi threads can be hard to follow..) Yes, i did fix my problem. I installed a new fuel pump complete with a new sending unit (separate problem i had) and strainers. my shuddering got worse and worse to the point where I couldn't use even a half a tank. The two screens on the fuel pump were totally crudded up even though the rest of the tank looked fine. I am willing to bet that the original fuel pump was serviceable but I was curious and dismantled it since I had already purchaced the whole module. The jeep works great now. very responsive and no stalling out.

-ron brandon-

Initially, I was told by the Auto Tech teacher at my school that my shuddering could be the fuel pump. The fuel pump has never been replaced. I had the fuel filter replaced last Spring. I haven't experienced any shuddering since having my engine speed sensor replaced about 1500 miles ago. I question, however, if the transmission was the problem all along and it was repaired without my knowing in order for the transmission tech to save face, given all the problems I had after is was rebuilt. He is the one who found the code and replaced the part. Who knows? I just want a reliable vehicle to transport me and my terriers.

ktcakes,

I had a speed sensor go out on a trip one time and autozone pulled the code for me. I replaced it and it fixed the shuddering assositated with that problem. when it went out the engine drank gas and the shift points were way off. if you are still having problems, see if they persist all the time or if they only start when your gas tank gets to a certain level.

-ronb-