I just got done replacing my PCV valves and it took forever. i got em in the mail today and i just had to put em on right away. it took a few hours and my back kills.. it was pretty tough and complicated, well more so than i expected it to be, and i drove it through downtown columbus to see how she was doin and makin sure all the lines and such were conected back up right and it ran a little smother and idled better and it just seemed to help the car run better, if any of u r thinkin about doin it its only like a 40 dollar set for the two valves and the 2 tubes, if any of u have any questions about doin it like complications id love to help u and save u any frustrations..

good job!!! it seems everytime i change something in my car it makes it run smoother and better. :D

they would be a bitch to replace if you don't have the plenum off, i replaced them with the plenum off when i was replacing one of the fuel injecotrs, pretty easy. i should of replaced the freaking detonation sensor while i was under there though.

-Jared

lol yeah, i did it with the plenum on and those tubes were rock hard and the vlaves looked like really old sludgy spark plugs, hey quick question about that detonation sensor...some times if i shift fast and i give it any gas before the clutch is all the way out my car boggs down ( i think th computer backs the timing off) and then it knocks ???? would that be the detonation sensor or knock sensor or what would cuase this and how can i fix it ??? thanks alot

the detonation sensor and knock sensor is the same thing, just different names. i would do an ecu diagnostics to see if it gives you any codes.

-Jared

it doesnt give any codes

if the detonation sensor is bad, it should send a code. clean all your sensors (i.e. MAF, TPS, Detonation, ect.)

-Jared

clean the conectors, or like take each sensor out and clean it, >?? cuz i can clean the electrical plugs easy but i dont even know how to get to the detonation sensor, let alone clean it, and so on...??? this sux, if u guys can help me out at all id be awesome. do u guys think that it could be the fuel temp sensor, engine temp sensor, or maybe one of those relays in that fuse box under the hood, (on the drivers side)....maybe the ignotion coil relay is a little off or corrodid ?? i dont know but im runnin out of ideas and i can drive my car fine, but its annoying...please help

the detonation connection is right behind the plenum in the center, it is sitting vertical. just take the connection apart and clean it with electrical cleaner.

-Jared

cool thanks alot ill do that tomorrow, is there anyting else u can think to check ? ill use electrical cleaner on the tps and maf connector too.

how do i clean the detonation sensor, its under the plenum on the block,or is there an electrical connector u meant that i should clean ??

yeah, the electrical connection is what you want to clean. it is the connection that is right behind the plenum in the middle and it sits vertical.

-Jared

so yeah ill check all those things tomorrow, but besides all those things os there a way to actually clean teh MAS sensor ir is it tooo delicate ???? and the issue with my car losing power and then knocking....if its not a sensor would it be caused by my car running lean, i am running a jwt popcharger, and no aftermarket ECU to compensate the fuel to match the air, i plan on gettin a Z1motorsports ECU really soon, do u think this would fix the problem, and do any of u know what EXACTLY the Z1 ECU does, like i know JWT opens up the rev limiter to 7300 rpms, and speed limiter is off, and the fuel curve is fixed, so if someone could share what the guys at Z1 do it would be very helpfull...

well, a single popcharger shouldn't mess up your fuel/air mixture, it is when you get a dual popcharger when it starts to mess up everything. i have heard that the MAF is a pretty delicate part and is pretty expenisive, so i wouldn't try it.

-Jared

yeah dont even touch the sensor itself, just clean the connection...

if you say its bogging down, that usually means its running rich...but it only does it when your switching gears and you step on the accelerator before the clutch is released??? and then when does the knock sound come in???

it could be running rich and then cause a backfire pop in your exhaust...thats what it sounds like to me. i would check your coil pack connectors and clean those while your cleaing all these connections. also you may want to check your plugs, atleast this will tell you by the condition they are in, if you are running rich, lean, or what...

yeah when i give it gas before letting the clutc all the way out all the power i would get by pressing down the gas pedal doesnt change, i dont acelerate at all and then then engine knocks and then i get power back and accelerate again. i was thinkin maybe coilpacks cuz i just changed my plugs, so ill clean the coil pack connectors

hm...still sounds like it is running rich for a split second. a sensor might be sending the wrong signal to your ECU causing your ECU to inject way more fuel in your engine then needed. i dont know...

its wierd that it only does it when you push the accelerator before the clutch is fully released...

when did it start this???

im not really sure when it started nothin really jumped out at me cuz it rarely happens and i havent really changed much on it, but w/e ill clean all the sensors and plugs and all that jazz and see what hapens...thanks guys

hey, Ive been told that my knock sensor is going on my '96. the engine light is on. Ive seen a lot of posts about replacing the sensor so i am assuming its pretty common with the z32's. should i just try cleaning the electrical connection, if so how should i clean it, if not, is it really that hard to replace the sensor its self. should a amateur machanic try and do it himself? thanks

Sicky:

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