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P0113 "IAT Sensor"


BlackSnake2001
01-12-2005, 10:09 AM
I've done some searching on here in regards to this problem that keeps popping up on my car. It just started over the past 2 days.

I'm getting a P0113 code. It refers to the IAT sensor. From what I have read on the net, this can be caused by the sensor or the wires that go to the sensor. Does anyone have any input on this matter? The wires look great but I haven't unwrapped the black tape around all of them to see if there is a break in the wire. I'm sure there is a procedure I can do to test them but I haven't found that information anywhere.

Let me know if you can help.

BlackSnake2001
01-14-2005, 04:16 PM
Anyone? Any way I can test this?

cadaman
02-10-2005, 10:11 PM
I've done some searching on here in regards to this problem that keeps popping up on my car. It just started over the past 2 days.

I'm getting a P0113 code. It refers to the IAT sensor. From what I have read on the net, this can be caused by the sensor or the wires that go to the sensor. Does anyone have any input on this matter? The wires look great but I haven't unwrapped the black tape around all of them to see if there is a break in the wire. I'm sure there is a procedure I can do to test them but I haven't found that information anywhere.

Let me know if you can help.

I have the same problem, developed after very cold snap here a few days ago. Car would not start, backfired, finally killed the battery. When things warmed up had the car towed in and they replaced coil, wires, plugs....basically very expensive tune-up. Ever since I got the car back, has PO113'd. replaced AIT sensor !3 bucks, & erased codes....no luck still get same code after short warm-up drive....says something about high sensor imput.

Any advice?

BlackSnake2001
02-11-2005, 08:15 AM
I fixed mine shortly after posting this.

The wires inside the connector breaks.. I took the connector apart, re wired it with new wires and soldier and all is well.

You can test to see if it is in the wiring by using a volt meter. try probing the wires with a meter and you should get 5V across them with the Key On car off. If you don't, wiggle the wires and see if you do. If you still don't.. Go up the wire about 6-7" and slice off some of the outer wire so you can expose the core and test there. When I did the last part I had 5 volts... So I knew the problem was in the connector.

Shawn

cadaman
02-12-2005, 05:20 PM
I fixed mine shortly after posting this.

The wires inside the connector breaks.. I took the connector apart, re wired it with new wires and soldier and all is well.

You can test to see if it is in the wiring by using a volt meter. try probing the wires with a meter and you should get 5V across them with the Key On car off. If you don't, wiggle the wires and see if you do. If you still don't.. Go up the wire about 6-7" and slice off some of the outer wire so you can expose the core and test there. When I did the last part I had 5 volts... So I knew the problem was in the connector.

Shawn

Snake

Thanks for giving me the MAC-DADDY of all advice!

You were dead-on with the harness....I didn't quite believe it at first but went out, picked up the multimeter, and the voltage across the terminals was all over the place with the key on/off.

Took off about 2 inches and put the connector back on NO CODES!.

When you consider that the harness is kind of tight in the throttle area and the aircleaner is mounted solidly to the body...with the amount of relative movement 'tween the engine and the aircleaner, it all begins to make sense why the wires crack....especially on very cold days. All the cranking and the backfire probably did it in.

Appreciate the Help!
Bud

cadaman
02-12-2005, 05:25 PM
I fixed mine shortly after posting this.

The wires inside the connector breaks.. I took the connector apart, re wired it with new wires and soldier and all is well.

You can test to see if it is in the wiring by using a volt meter. try probing the wires with a meter and you should get 5V across them with the Key On car off. If you don't, wiggle the wires and see if you do. If you still don't.. Go up the wire about 6-7" and slice off some of the outer wire so you can expose the core and test there. When I did the last part I had 5 volts... So I knew the problem was in the connector.

Shawn

Snake

Thanks for giving me the MAC-DADDY of all advice!

You were dead-on with the harness....I didn't quite believe it at first and have always been at an absolute loss with electrical gremlins but went out, picked up the multimeter, and the voltage across the terminals was all over the place with the key on/off.

Took off about 2 inches and put the connector back on erased everything and NO CODES!.

When you consider that the harness is kind of tight in the throttle area and the aircleaner is mounted solidly to the body...with the amount of relative movement 'tween the engine and the aircleaner, it all begins to make sense why the wires crack....especially on very cold days. All the cranking and the backfire probably did it in.

Appreciate the Help!
Bud

BlackSnake2001
02-12-2005, 09:56 PM
That's great to hear man!!

It's great to get in the car and not see the light on :)

bearcatdon
09-09-2006, 02:37 PM
I fixed mine shortly after posting this.

The wires inside the connector breaks.. I took the connector apart, re wired it with new wires and soldier and all is well.

You can test to see if it is in the wiring by using a volt meter. try probing the wires with a meter and you should get 5V across them with the Key On car off. If you don't, wiggle the wires and see if you do. If you still don't.. Go up the wire about 6-7" and slice off some of the outer wire so you can expose the core and test there. When I did the last part I had 5 volts... So I knew the problem was in the connector.

Shawn

Great advice…It got rid of my IAT and MAF sensor errors. In my case, I actually got 5V when I first probed it due to intermittency. If you run into this issue I would remove the water seal on the back of the connector and give the wires a good tug. Once I did that one wire came off and the other was later found bad when checked for continuity. Bye Bye Check engine light.

joatphoto
09-25-2006, 05:31 PM
YEESSSS!!!
Wow... worth the free registration already.. lol
Thanks for the posts... Took hours of searching and nothing even came CLOSE to telling me what might be the problem... Was going to buy a new sensor (what a total waste that would have been). Thanks again.

Joe

JoePete
10-24-2006, 12:41 PM
Where is the IAT Sensor located on a 98 malibu? I know where the MAF sensor but do not know where to find the IAT sensor. I would like to see if this is where my errors are coming from.

maxwedge
10-24-2006, 02:36 PM
Plugged into the duct from the air cleaner box to the throttle body, 3.1 I assume.

JoePete
10-24-2006, 03:46 PM
Yeah its a 3.1 v6

cheerios1
01-22-2007, 08:03 AM
I know this is an old topic, but Blacksnake u are d'man.....
lazy as i am, emission time, light engine on and replaced everything, cleaned the throttle body for combustion even replaced the EGR valve thinking it was probably throwing the IAT sensor warning and viola....read this forum.
98 Malibu .....removed the water seal as noted in this forum, found the cable split in the connector. Called around no one had this connector, called chevy they wanted $85 to look and test, I'm like what, I know the code and issue and u still want $85 bucks....asked for connector price, they wanted $25 bucks....nevermind that, went the guns....slit the cord and soldered to the connector and put it back all is well.
IT IS VERY GOOD NOT HAVING THAT STINKIN ENGINE LIGHT ON......i've had it on for 7 months.....:)

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