94 Camry overheating

I have a overheating problem.???? Water pump was replaced 1000 miles ago with the timing belt. It started overheating a month after that. Water was boiling out the radiator cap. Replaced cap and it work great for another month. So I just replaced the thermostat and gasket. That has not helped. I was looking for an electric radiator fan to see if I could bypassed the switch checking the fan motor and the switch, but it looks like a hydraulic fan for the radiator. (I think??) That seems to rotate but not all that fast and not after the car has been shut down, which if hydraulic would make sense. The car runs excellent so I have ruled out blown head gasket and I am not losing any fluid. What do you think????

I do believe the fans in those years are electric.

I have one fan powered by what appears to be hydraulic tubes, and no electrical wires.

most of the radiators are clog with calcium deposites.

most of the radiators are clog with calcium deposites.Thanks for the thought, I had not considered the radiator, 190,000 miles and original radiator probably. Is there a test you can perform on the radiator or just buy one and hope for the best like the thermostat, (but that was a little cheaper)?

I have a overheating problem.???? Water pump was replaced 1000 miles ago with the timing belt. It started overheating a month after that. Water was boiling out the radiator cap. Replaced cap and it work great for another month. So I just replaced the thermostat and gasket. That has not helped. I was looking for an electric radiator fan to see if I could bypassed the switch checking the fan motor and the switch, but it looks like a hydraulic fan for the radiator. (I think??) That seems to rotate but not all that fast and not after the car has been shut down, which if hydraulic would make sense. The car runs excellent so I have ruled out blown head gasket and I am not losing any fluid. What do you think????


IF YOU SAY YOURE NOT LOSING ANY WATER THEN I GUESS TIME TO BUY A NEW RADIATOR OR HAVE IT REBUILD . ALSO JUST TO LET YOU KNOW..YOUR RADIATOR FAN IS ELECTRIC..

What you think are "hydraulic lines" are most likely conduit that covers the electrical wiring to the fan. I know for a fact that these fans are electrical.

There are additives you can purchase from automotive parts suppliers to help remove buildup from radiator cores. Follow directions for additive and flush the cooling system. Your cooling system may have been neglected for to long for this to work. It could save you considerabel $$ if it does.

they are hydraulic lines, the cooling fan on the 1994 camry 1mzfe v6 runs off the power steering pump

I have a overheating problem.???? Water pump was replaced 1000 miles ago with the timing belt. It started overheating a month after that. Water was boiling out the radiator cap. Replaced cap and it work great for another month. ...

If you replaced the cap and it stopped overheating for a month, then would it not be the cap? Is it still coming out from under the new cap, or is it boiling out of the reservoir tank? When you state: 'overheat', do you see the temp gauge in the car go high or is it just loss of coolant? If the hydraulic fan is always moving slowly even when it is overheating, then there is something wrong with the fan circuit. The fan will only be on when the engine is running.

For the fan circuit:

1. Check the serpentine belt tension.

2. Check the fluid level of the PS pump and its health. Is your power steering being affected at all?

3. Check the connections on the fan temp sensor which I think is mounted on the thermostat housing. If that is not working properly, the fan won't come up to high speed.

4. Check the fan hydraulic solenoid which controls the fluid flow to the fan. May be mounted near the PS pump or on it. You should be able to apply power directly to that solenoid and the fan should come up to full speed. If it doesn't, then it may be shot or the fan is shot. These hydraulic fans though are very reliable and it is very rare they go themselves.

5. It's pretty dumb, but make sure the water pump is actually turning You never know. :)

6. If you want to check your rad for flow, empty the coolant into a tub to recover later and remove the bottom hose and run water thru it from the top rad cap to see how the flow is.

7. I know you have stated that you don't think it is a head gasket issue, but to reassure yourself, you may want to do a block test. When it does overheat, is it only after a good 40 mins of highway driving?

dave mc

This thread is two and a half years old!

This thread is two and a half years old!

Whoops! :banghead: :)

dave mc

The thread is now over five years old, but many of us are still reading it. There is a lot of good information here. Any additional information is always appreciated no matter how old the original thread is. Thanks to all who contribute!

Welcome to AF and we are glad you find our forums very informative.

Yes, old threads are good when posters continue to add more info to the subject. But posts that serve to merely note that the threads is old do not contribute. They only "bump" it to the top of the thread list, which is an annoyance to those expecting the added info.

Reading this, we hope in the future that people will only respond to old posts when they have something new to contribute to the thread topic or wish to revive one that did not have a posted solution. Thank you.

Damn, this thread is old... :)

Damn, this thread is old... :)

I smell sarcasm. Does this mean your unwritten policy has changed because there are a boat load of old threads I can bring out of hybernation and add info to. Something for all of us to do when new or interesting threads are few and far between.

The policy is far from unwritten. We have been advised to allow contributions to threads of any age, as long as there is value in the post. At least that is the way I interpret our new policy.