0 gauge for 4

Can I use my old 0 gauge wire on a system requiring 4? Will it cause any problems? Id rather do this than spend the extra $$$ on new wires...

yea

Yes you can use it, it wont cause any problems besides maby not being able to jam it into the amp terminal.

or in other words a simple yea would do

Not really, he asked if it would work then he asked if it would cause problems, "yea" only answered one.

YESNO dammit

well actually, theres a few different problems it could cause... see when you run a 4 guage wire, theres a lot more places, and options for you as opposed to when you run zero gauge wire. Your 0 gauge may not fit, or bend properly for the location you would like to run it, thus causing a problem. As well as the afore mentioned dilemma of having to jam the 0 guage into a 4 gauge terminal... another problem. Yes it would work. Yes it can cause problems. The answer(s) is yes.


(just being an ass)

arse

Im tellin you, that is a middle eastern word

No problems. Dont try to jam 0awg into 4awg amp terminal. trim it down or use a step down device. 0awg will bend just as well as any other diameter wire. The diameter is the minimal radius of hte bend you may use other wise you may internally rupture the wire or stress the caseing.
The good points? well if 4 is all that is required then no major goods are going to come from it. Slightly lowered resistance means a slightly more efficent elecrical system as far as your power wires go.

Well the previous install it was used on was for an amp that didnt need 0awg, so the terminal is already made small. No problems there...After school tomorrow I have to bring my car to the repair shop (brake problems), but friday the install should take place.

Sweetness. Lets see some pics. WHat set up are you getting?

Sweetness. Lets see some pics. WHat set up are you getting?
Well remember....im the one with the two MTX 10" thunder 8000s. I 100% admit they are not the best, but I couldnt have goten better for the deal I got them for. 2 Subs brand new $80 shipped (not eBay). Sure mtx is more spl then quality (which id rather have more sq), but it was either budget system or no system. With the extra money I saved, I can do some front stage (Ford Mach Audio is overrated).
Ill wait for my Better quality system for when I am older. I plan on having (obviously once out of college) a daily driver that is all sounds, and a sports car/weekend driver. As of now Im 17 with an inbetween (Mustang GT daily driver).

Well for a low budget system, and the price i must say not too bad at all. at least you didnt go for walmart Xplod's or Lightning audio. If youve never heard an SQ woofer then MTX sounds good. Wait till the day you can afford a Brahma. You ears will thank you.

If youve never heard an SQ woofer then MTX sounds good.


how true that is

I thought the general tonality and imaging of my system was great, and I also thought my Sony MDR-V600's were great, until I got some Sennheiser hd595s. I have a lot of work ahead of me

I heard brahmas, my ears are not thanking me...they are begging me for more... but they are a bit pricey for what I need as of now. *slaps self for letting finance disappoint himself*

Well have you looked at the Kodas? THey use XBL2 but dont have the xmax or power handleing of the Brahma. All that makes the Brahma sound better than your average normal single feild motored woofer is the BL (diver motor strength) XBL^2 provides along with superior cone controll in high excursions.

not true brahma BL is 15.9 .... look at the xxx for example BL= 17.1 RE series 15.4 treo csx12.22 =24.3 shiva=11.3 tempest=14.2 So yea a higher BL does not mean better SQ its just a measurement of the motor strength .... Generally...not always..... SPl oriented subs and One's capable of producing high amounts of SPL will have a higher BL then one's designed more for SQ like a shiva or tempest.

Ok well before I show pictures of the install (real basic), we need to do some problem diagnosis....

Ok when we did the install, I put in the amp and subs, and my new cd player (Alpine 9825~had for almost a year now). We have run into two problems.
The first problem is while driving, a slight whine is coming from directly in front of the drivers seat, cant pintpoint the exact location, but the whine might be RPM dependent, and very disctint. At first I thought it was an air leak in like the grommet or something, but I dont think so, sounds different then air. What could this be?

Second problem: The subs work great. However I cant listen to my system at higher levels. If I turn the headunit speaker power off (turning off frontstage) and turn the volume up, the subs pound awesome. However, If I have frontstage on the frontstage distorts miserably above half way. I know this could be because I have factory frontstage as of now, but it is also ford's "Mach Audio", not the best, but surely different then normal factory... Is there anything I can do for this? I think it is because the speakers cant handle the new power supplied by my cd player.

help...anyone?!?

Is the wine electrical or what?

As for the distortion. If you are running the front stage off of the head unit it may be the head units fault that it distorts. turn any bass enhancers and equilizers off on the head unit. find the level right about where it starts to distort. if it is distoriton all of the time it may be a wireing problem or a shitty head unit.

Im pretty sure the whine is electrical...it seems to get louder as i accelerate...(and only when HU volume is above 0). The headunit isnt top notch, but it is still an alpine, (9825)...I like it and never had problems before. Ill try turning off all enhancers. later and see if that works...but how about the whine? how could i find a leak?

you need to get an amp for your frontstage if you have some pounding subs. Your head unit will not be able to push your speakers loud enough to keep up without distorting. Maybe yours can w/o all the enhancers, I dont know because I never had that deck, but Id say buy a 4 CH with HPF, and that will make your highs crisp and clean. Mach Audio.. lol. Those are a joke. Okay no they arent. But they cant handle bass at brain exploding volumes. You need to cut the lows from them.

What kinda amp would I need for powering the factory speakers? I cant afford to replace front stage yet, since I just had huge repair fees.
Also my subs dont start to hit until like volume 10-15 (out of 35), and even then quiet, aka the frontstage is always playing louder then the bass-subs. Sounds weird, If volume raises, the subs are pounding, but the frontstage destorts even louder.