water temp gauge


MJTrippy
01-09-2005, 03:47 PM
just today all the sudden the temp gauge doesnt move past 110, and i have been driving it for about a hr now and still doesnt move, normal in this weather it goes to 190 but now it doesnt move, checked fuse, (not blown).... dont know what to do and what can i check to fix it????

ricksza
01-09-2005, 05:03 PM
Check you coolant level. Do you have normal heat out the vents? If you have normal heat, but low temp readings, probably temp sensor. If low heat also, probably bad thermostat.

MJTrippy
01-09-2005, 05:08 PM
yea it still has awesome heat i mean it blows like normal hott air but the gauge still reads low, where is the thermostat? and the temp senser? and yes the coolent level is where it is suppa be thanks....

blazee
01-09-2005, 05:50 PM
If you heater is working good it's probably your temperature sending unit and not the thermostat.

FYI:

The thermostat is in the housing where the upper radiator hose enters the top of the engine.

And I believe your temperature sending unit should be on your driver side cylinder head right above the number 3 and 5 sparkplugs. It will have a small wire connector going to it.

MJTrippy
01-09-2005, 07:56 PM
If you heater is working good it's probably your temperature sending unit and not the thermostat.

FYI:

The thermostat is in the housing where the upper radiator hose enters the top of the engine.

And I believe your temperature sending unit should be on your driver side cylinder head right above the number 3 and 5 sparkplugs. It will have a small wire connector going to it.


hello now where is the sending unit like how many wire's are going to it? and whats it look like from the outside


thanks

BlazerLT
01-09-2005, 07:59 PM
just today all the sudden the temp gauge doesnt move past 110, and i have been driving it for about a hr now and still doesnt move, normal in this weather it goes to 190 but now it doesnt move, checked fuse, (not blown).... dont know what to do and what can i check to fix it????

Thermostat needs to be changed.

It is stuck open.

MJTrippy
01-09-2005, 08:08 PM
where is the Thermostat and now the temp droped to 100 wile it was off and wont even move now no mater how long the motor is on

blazee
01-09-2005, 08:20 PM
Thermostat needs to be changed.

It is stuck open.

You didn't read the whole thing it's not the thermostat, it is the sending unit.

BlazerLT
01-09-2005, 08:23 PM
You didn't read the whole thing it's not the thermostat, it is the sending unit.

I read the friggin post.

Just because there is heat doesn't mean the thermostat is not stuck open.

MJTrippy
01-09-2005, 08:26 PM
ok now where is the sending unit, like what does it look like i cant see it? how many wires it got on it..... and how do i test it

blazee
01-09-2005, 08:28 PM
I read the friggin post.

Just because there is heat doesn't mean the thermostat is not stuck open.

did you read the part that says his heater blows hot and the temperature gauge doesn't move? Yes if the thermostat is stuck open it will run cooler, but the temperature gauge will show more than 100.

MJTrippy
01-09-2005, 08:32 PM
ok it blows cool air when fist turned on but after about 10 min after driving around like any other day the heat gets hott and temp would read about 190 and blow hott, now still blows hott after driving around 10 min but now the temp gauge dont move now, wont move off of 100

blazee
01-09-2005, 08:45 PM
"your temperature sending unit should be on your driver side cylinder head right above the number 3 and 5 sparkplugs. It will have a small wire connector going to it." If you take a look it is pretty easy to see, it is a few inches above the back two sparkplugs on the driverside and about half way between them. looking down it will look like a stud (almost like a sparkplug) with a wire harness plugged into it.

Turbocpe
01-09-2005, 08:59 PM
It would be good if you could have someone hook up a scantool to your Blazer so that they can read what temperature the engine is reporting to the computer itself.

Sure would save replacing parts that aren't needed.

Judging by the info here, I would suspect the sending unit or gauge, especially if you have "awesome heat" still.

BlazerLT
01-09-2005, 08:59 PM
did you read the part that says his heater blows hot and the temperature gauge doesn't move? Yes if the thermostat is stuck open it will run cooler, but the temperature gauge will show more than 100.

That in no way takes a stuck openthermostat out of the equation.

I am not saying that it is not the sender, but let's not jump to conclusions and state that the stat is fine.

Turbocpe
01-09-2005, 09:02 PM
Hold on here. BlazerLT, you need to take the same advise yourself. You jumped to conclusions and said


Thermostat needs to be changed.

It is stuck open.


Having the guy replace something that isn't needing not only costs him money, but time.


...but let's not jump to conclusions and state that the stat is fine.

blazee
01-09-2005, 09:04 PM
Thermostat needs to be changed.

It is stuck open.

When you replied you didn't state that any other component maybe at fault. I was clarifying that there were more likely causes to the problem.

Hell... it may not be either one.

blazee
01-09-2005, 09:06 PM
It would be good if you could have someone hook up a scantool to your Blazer so that they can read what temperature the engine is reporting to the computer itself.

Sure would save replacing parts that aren't needed.

Judging by the info here, I would suspect the sending unit or gauge, especially if you have "awesome heat" still.

That sounds like a good idea.

BlazerLT
01-09-2005, 09:14 PM
It would be good if you could have someone hook up a scantool to your Blazer so that they can read what temperature the engine is reporting to the computer itself.

Sure would save replacing parts that aren't needed.

Judging by the info here, I would suspect the sending unit or gauge, especially if you have "awesome heat" still.

Very true, that would be an excellent reference and would point out the problem immediately.

Great idea Turbo! :D

mtrotter70
01-10-2005, 08:43 AM
I would lean toward the thermostat being stuck open.
I had the exact same symptoms - temp would not go above 110 and
heater worked but not as quite as hot as usual.
Changed the thermostat and problem fixed.

BlazerLT
01-10-2005, 12:00 PM
I would lean toward the thermostat being stuck open.
I had the exact same symptoms - temp would not go above 110 and
heater worked but not as quite as hot as usual.
Changed the thermostat and problem fixed.

Yea, me too, when it happened to me, the temp would only get up to around 100 in my truck.

New stat and voila! everything was fine.

Turbocpe
01-10-2005, 12:10 PM
Well the poster is in NY (I'd imagine a little cold up there) and he says he has "awesome heat". A stuck t-stat sounds less likely based on the poster's description, which only he knows for sure since this is his vehicle and he is working on it.

I've had stuck open t-stats before so I do have some direct experience, but never had "awesome heat" with any of those stuck t-stats. Especially not within 10 minutes like the poster says.

Just my take on it. Nothing more.

Still would be best to get a scantool on it and view the live data and see what temperature the sensor is reporting to the computer itself.

BlazerLT
01-10-2005, 12:12 PM
How exactly do you judge awesome heat?

100 is still very warm.

Turbocpe
01-10-2005, 12:23 PM
Well, I don't belive 100F is "awesome" heat, nor very warm. But that is an opinion. Plus, only 10 minutes to warm up is not a good sign of a stuck t-stat. That is a short period of time for the engine warm up, especially when you consider that the anti-freeze will be flowing through the engine and radiator right away (stuck t-stat).

It would be nice if people weren't resorted to replacing things at random to fix the problem. I don't like when people are told to replace things, without further testing and diagnostics. That is simply guess work. Sure it may be working, but I call that luck :)

I'd rather not argue, which is why I've deleted a few of my past posts, or held back from posting, whenever I've seen people on here flat out told to replace X part, without further diagnostics or asking questions to further isolate the issue. That is the wrong way to work on vehicles. It costs the person time and money, and that is something I've seen on this forum in my time here (sorry to say). It is also something that is a frequent problem with people working on vehicles.

I may have a newbie title, but I'm not new to working on my own vehicles, nor am I new to any of these message boards.

The best way is to verify that the temperature gauge is reporting the proper temperature as I said in my other reply. Until that is done, nothing here is going to help further, other than speculations.

Anyway, again, I want to make it clear that I'm not wanting to argue, not with any one person. I'm obviously trying to help with the small knowledge and supply of information I have.

Thanks.

scholzee
01-10-2005, 12:47 PM
Its easier and cheaper to replace a T Stat then to find, purchase, or pay someone to hook up a scan tool and read the sending unit, especially if the T Stat has never been replaced or unknown when it was last replaced. If you do not want to spend any money and test the sending unit, start a pot of boiling water, disconnect the wire, unscrew sending unit, hook wire back up, put the threaded end in boiling water, turn key on and watch gauge, it should be close to 190- 212 definitely will go higher than 110 if it is working properly.

Turbocpe
01-10-2005, 01:08 PM
Doesn't AutoZone read codes for free? Never used them as I have my own scanner, but do they use the cheap scanner that only reads the trouble code digits? Or do they have the Actron ScanTool (they sell this item, or atleast used to) that displays a few lines of data (live data and trouble codes)? If the later, you should have no problem.

I don't know why you'd have to pay someone to show you one value from the computer. There may be someone he knows that has access to a scanner and would do it for free.

It could be the t-stat and it may not be. Since it isn't a high dollar item and is fairly easy to replace for most people, it isn't as big of a deal in this case as other cases. However, I'm just saying, it just isn't the proper way to work on vehicles and WILL cost the owner more money and time than needed by replacing items without further diagnostics. I don't think that most people care to burn money and time. Maybe I'm wrong.

blazee
01-10-2005, 01:47 PM
I, too, made my judgement based on him saying he had "awesome heat" leading me to believe that the thermostat isn't the culprit. 100c would be "awesome heat" but not 100f, it is less than 2 degrees more than your body temperature, 100f air blowing on you would have more of a cooling effect.
I used to have an old 70's model Wagoneer, when the thermostat went out I took it out and it would take at least twenty minutes before it was warm enough for me to feel the heat and I live in Florida.

I believe the engine is getting up to operating temperature but the gauge isn't showing it. This could be the sending unit, gauge, or even a loose wire.

All these parts can be tested if he can't find a place to scan it for free:

To test the thermostat take it out, look at it, (Is it open?) put it in water on the stove, it should open around 195 degrees

To test the wires and gauge, ground the wire to the sending unit with the key on, the gauge should read full scale.

To test the sending unit, according to Haynes:
1. Remove the sending unit from the engine and clip ohmmeter leads to the sending unit body and the terminal. Place the sending unit in a pan of water on the stove, with a cooking thermometer in the water. On a cold (50-80 degrees F) sender, the resistence should be 5,700 to 2,200 ohms. When it has warmed up to operating temperature (170 to 200 degrees F) the resistence should drop to 200-300 ohms.

MJTrippy
01-10-2005, 10:33 PM
ok sorry about saying awesome heat, i beleave its the t stat, the heater blows not that hott anymore after all this, i mean it blows heat but not as good as it used to, and after driving for about 30 min the needle moves off a 100 to 110 maybe(bearly moves), and it looks very hard to get the t stat off and check it, any tricks to get it off without a hasle????

thank you

BlazerLT
01-11-2005, 12:23 AM
ok sorry about saying awesome heat, i beleave its the t stat, the heater blows not that hott anymore after all this, i mean it blows heat but not as good as it used to, and after driving for about 30 min the needle moves off a 100 to 110 maybe(bearly moves), and it looks very hard to get the t stat off and check it, any tricks to get it off without a hasle????

thank you

Do you have any automotive or repair experience at all?

MJTrippy
01-11-2005, 07:29 AM
yes some i;m pretty good with cars

BlazerLT
01-11-2005, 01:29 PM
The thermostat is in the housing where the top hose coming from the rad goes to the top of the engine. At the end is the thermostat housing.

If and when you change it, make sure you have the right tools, getting to it can be a pain.

Buy the housing gasket and the thermostat itself.

BTW, what year do you have?

Turbocpe
01-11-2005, 02:22 PM
ok sorry about saying awesome heat... the heater blows not that hott anymore after all this

I just want to add that those two things make a very big difference in this case. Those two things alone changes the direction to solving this issue. People can only help based on the input from the owner of the vehicle who has the problem, since none of us have access to it.

Not trying to be negative, just stating that things like that can make a huge difference in how to tackle the problem, unless you just want to throw money and time at it, needlessly, by replacing random things (very bad and poor approach when working on vehicles...do it RIGHT).

Good luck with changing the t-stat and hopefully that will clear things up, as now it does seem to be the most likely problem.

As far as BlazerLT asking about the year, the profile of the user shows it is a 1995.

On a side note, it may help if one of the Admins here adds the Vehicle Information below the poster's avatar, making it easier for people to see the vehicle in question, at a glance, without having to go to the profile to read the information. This can easily be done with this vBulletin software. It is a simple template change.

BlazerLT
01-11-2005, 02:29 PM
If it is a 1995, it will be a pain the the bum.

Hard to access the housing and getting around the front throttle body.

Just hope he has a good socket, extension and flexible elbow set.

mike2004tct
01-11-2005, 04:58 PM
If it is a 1995, it will be a pain the the bum.

Hard to access the housing and getting around the front throttle body.

Just hope he has a good socket, extension and flexible elbow set.

Just wondering, how much harder than a '97.

On my '97, I removed the plastic air cover shroud over the TB (held on by a large wing handle-nut, removed a wire clip from a stud on the T-stat housing, then removed the two studs (13mm ?) holding the housing to the manifold. Out with the old, scrape the old gasket off, put on new gasket,in with the new T-stat, about 20 minutes tops. I used a box wrench because of the stud height.

Are the '95s that much different of a configuration?

BlazerLT
01-11-2005, 08:16 PM
The front intake is what gets in the way.

imnprsd
01-18-2005, 02:04 PM
That in no way takes a stuck openthermostat out of the equation.

I am not saying that it is not the sender, but let's not jump to conclusions and state that the stat is fine.


PERSONAL EXPERIENCE: My 97 Blazer's temp gauge wouldn't read above 115 and the mechanic quickly changed the sending unit. NO CHANGE... Then changed the thermostat. That was the problem!

Note: My heater was alway very hot.... Now, with the thermostat working properly, it's like I have a fire inside with I set it on high heat so I have to reduce the control to the mid-range and run the fan on low so I don't burn up. Is that normal? It's a question of working too good... could be bad.

Turbocpe
01-18-2005, 03:00 PM
I hope that the mechanic didn't charge you for the new sending unit and labor to replace it, since you didn't need it. In my opinion, a *good* mechanic should have easily been able to eliminate the sending unit by verifying if the temp gauge was reading correctly (such as using a scan tool to verify the temperature gauge) without resorting to replacing parts without actually diagnosing the problem. If the mechanic doesn't have access to such, in this day, you pretty much need a scantool if you're going to be working on these types of vehicles. Cars continue to be more "computerized".

My own personal experience, I've never had a vehicle with awesome heat when it had a stuck open t-stat, let alone one that warms up in 10 minutes in the Winter season with a stuck open t-stat, such as the author of this thread. I've had failed t-stats in the past.

At what temperature or position of the temperature gauge reading does it stabilize and usually read at?

The heater in my '98 Blazer gets very warm as well, enough to turn down the fan when it is single digits outside.

BlazerLT
01-18-2005, 03:04 PM
It is always smart to work from the simple to the more complicated.

The last thing I thought of when my stat stuck open was to change the sender.

Turbocpe
01-18-2005, 03:16 PM
It is smart to first properly diagnose the problem before jumping in and replacing parts. A good "mechanic" should have done this, honestly, to prevent having the owner pay more for a fix than what was needed. This is what they are paid to do, to know how to properly do the work and do it.

But that is just my small opinion.

Unless your Blazer is running too hot, I would not be concerned about the heater's output being hot.

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