how to check for valve seal leaks


GotGrip666
01-06-2005, 09:33 PM
could sombody point me the way in how to check for a valve leak?

kjewer1
01-06-2005, 11:14 PM
Valve or valve seal? Your title and post are asking two different questions :) For a valve leak, a compression or leak down test will do. For valve seals, you're on your own. If its smoking, losing oil, etc, it may be possible. THe only way I have found to know for sure is to look at the tops of the pistons. They will be covered in black crud if you have a decent valve stem seal leak. Hard to do with the head on though. ;) But may be possible. Some black coloring is normal, you're looking for a thick layer of it. I've seen it up to 1-2mm thick. Car knocked like hell too, wonder why :)

tfoti
01-06-2005, 11:35 PM
He can pull his spark plugs out and get his flashlight in there to see the top of the piston. If the piston's "dish" isnt much of a dish anymore then theres another clue.

TreeFrog
01-06-2005, 11:47 PM
i had value seals leaking the other day. dealership saw it when they were changing the timing belt

kjewer1
01-06-2005, 11:50 PM
I'm not sure how valve seals and a timing belt job are related.

tfoti
01-06-2005, 11:58 PM
i had value seals leaking the other day. dealership saw it when they were changing the timing belt

i think you are thinking of the valve COVER seal, not the valve seals

TreeFrog
01-07-2005, 12:41 AM
lol valve something!!! like i have a clue, my dsm is yet to make a machanic out of me!! they said it was leaking oil pretty good and driping on the axle spashing it all over the place.

gthompson97
01-07-2005, 01:00 AM
that would be the valve cover gasket.
unless your running a honda engine, then you could probably have your valve seals leak oil on the back of the block and on the axles and stuff. :evillol:

GotGrip666
01-07-2005, 01:28 AM
idk whats going on but im bringing it to the mitsu dealer on monday

Urban_Squrill
01-07-2005, 01:44 AM
idk whats going on but im bringing it to the mitsu dealer on monday
Wish I hade one with in a few hours of me.

george536
01-07-2005, 01:55 AM
my closest one is half an hour away

Urban_Squrill
01-07-2005, 01:56 AM
I think mine is like 6.

GotGrip666
01-07-2005, 02:22 AM
mines like 5-10 min

TreeFrog
01-07-2005, 11:56 AM
10 mins from here :)

joemathews
01-07-2005, 04:17 PM
Back on topic...the dealer will charge you close to $1000 said and done for labor and parts. I just flew Jake (EclipseRST) down here to do mine, and it wasn't really that hard. I think I could probably do it myself next time, although it would take much longer lol.

There is a VFAQ.com article on it--you need a special valve spring compressor to do it though. My valve seals caused the car to only puff smoke when taking off from a stop, or revving in neutral. And yes, as Kevin said, there was a TON of nasty black buildup on my pistons :(. They are much happier now :).

kjewer1
01-07-2005, 10:41 PM
To continue that thought, after cleaning my piston tops during a HG change (used to blow them out all the time before I started installing the studs "more" correctly, as seen in that RKO post) I had no more knock. I raised boost from 20 to 25 psi, on pump gas. And no knock. The crusty piston syndrome came back over time and it was knocking like hell. I finally got a head builder that could get me a head that didnt burn oil, and never had trouble with this again. The new seals are teh first step, but if the guides are bad they wont last long. So keep an eye it it still. :)

GotGrip666
01-07-2005, 11:54 PM
i have apr studs allready
my cars pretty worked im running high 11's right now

GotGrip666
01-07-2005, 11:54 PM
im just scared to do any internal work my self

kjewer1
01-08-2005, 11:03 AM
Well, I dont blame you. But you cant go through life with an 11 second DSM and avoid learning how to do the internal stuff ;) Read the vfaqs, use the manual, and take it slow. The best way to learn is to just do it. Have fun :)

joemathews
01-08-2005, 01:30 PM
Ideally, try to have an experienced friend nearby to help you, or watch him/her do it once. I know watching Jake do my valve stem seals just clarified the entire process, and it is unbelievably easy! Still very worthwhile having watched someone experienced do it.

Kevin, are the valve guides pieces or seals that are replaceable, or are they actually a molded part of the head? In other words, if the guides go bad, you need a new head? I didn't notice another seal inside the head when my valves came out, so just wondering....

GotGrip666
01-08-2005, 03:17 PM
Well its my only car right now and its to cold up here to ride my ninja, and i gotta work make that paper for my daughter

kjewer1
01-08-2005, 03:19 PM
They are press fit into the head. Some shops heat the head to change them (takes a long time and costs a fortune) and other just beat them out (potentially some risk involved but cheaper). Lately I've been replacing the guides just to be safe. My machinist is very reasonable, dissassemble, clean, replace any less than ideal valves, 5 angle valve job, resurface, new guides and seals, reassemble, still comes out to less than 300 bucks.

The guides themselves do stop oil as well as the seals. In fact the seals have to let a touch of oil by to lubricate the guides. If the guides are way out though the valve stem moves around and screws the seal. So replacing the seal will fix it for a little while, then the movement will take out the new seal. It seems that whenever I got a head that was just rebuilt, it would burn oil after ~100 miles, so I just started replacing the guides so I dont have to worry about it.

GotGrip666
01-08-2005, 06:03 PM
well im probally going to get a 1g 4g63t motor this summer and take the whole thing apart and rebuild it with all racing parts

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