1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE AC/Heater Blower, Relay and Resistor Block Problems 101


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big_vinnyk
12-06-2008, 04:56 PM
Any help out there? I can't let the wife drive the kids in a van with no turn signals and no heat, especially when the temp is 15 degrees out. I'm stuck. Anyone have any suggestions?

Vin

DanielaErler
12-09-2008, 10:17 PM
Hi Everyone!

I just joined the club of 96-Dodge-Caravan-with-messed-up-heating-system owners about a week ago.

I just replaced the blower motor relay. I also wanted to replace the resistor block, but I noticed that the actual problem was with the resistor connecor which was completely fried. I called Napa, but they told me the connector per se needs to be ordered from the dealer himself - I don't believe in conspiracy theories, but I am sure there is one right here - they would only sell me that thing if they were to install the wires themselves, which makes about couple hundred bucks total, which I find ridiculous.

Hence, my question is: where on Earth can I order a resistor connector including the 5 wires... is there a place online? Anything?

Thanks a million for your help!

Cheers,
Daniela

GrandcaravanMan
12-10-2008, 04:06 PM
Hello all,

I have been reading this very informative post and my brain is just frying like an egg. My 2005 GC 3.3 has just lost heat, but, here is the difference.

When I turn my heater on and set the two slides for driver/passenger all the way to full heat, I don't get heat. Now, my fan switch works in all positions, low thru high, and not just in high.The back fan works also.

Although my fan works in all speeds it only blows hot air when I rev the engine up over 3K RPMs. I suspect that that is just engine heat but never the less it's heat.

So, I have everything working as far as the fan blowing in all positions, now does that mean my relays are fine or would the fan/blower still blow if the relay was bad? Does the relay turn the actual HEATING unit on also?

I'm sorry if I'm sounding redundant but it just seems that in my case everything is blowing and working fine but just not blowing hot air.

Could any of this be due to a bad T-Stat?

Thanks,
Jeff

jpb53
12-10-2008, 06:18 PM
Try this site to order parts http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214996 resistor part# 4677180ad wiring pigtail part # 5003316aa

DanielaErler
12-10-2008, 08:37 PM
Thanks for the link!

On Jeff's note: I know this might sound too obvious, but this is just the right time of the year for this to happen: have you checked the level of antifreeze? I just had exactly that problem myself and it turned out I have a leaking antifreeze hose... Sorry I can't give you more input, I am really anything but an expert when it comes to cars...

Good luck!
Daniela

BIGJAY1274
01-08-2009, 02:34 PM
Thanks a lot Headless and everyone that contributed to this thread.
I have an '02 Grand Caravan ES 3.8L, my blower would only work on high and when I tried to turn it off it only blew harder!
I followed what was said here and replaced the resistor block (Part #4885482AA, $79 from the dealer). I wonder what the dealer would have charged me to do this job :mad:
I just replaced it today so hopefully that did the job for the longterm.

P.S. I would have posted a pic of the part but I don't see where I can do that.

BIGJAY1274
01-08-2009, 02:49 PM
I thought my problem was the same. My front blower does not work at all on my 2005 Grand Caravan. I replaced the blower motor and the relay, but it didn't help. I took the resister block out, and it looks brand new. not a bit of corrosion to be seen on either the block or connector. I also checked the fuse several times, and replaced it with another one. The back blower works fine.

I also have a rotten egg smell coming from the front of the car, and I noticed it was really bad under the dash while replacing the blower motor.

Any ideas? I suppose I could replace the resister block anyway, but it seems like it should look at least a little worn.

Don't go by how it looks, I thought the same thing. Mine didn't look worn either but I replaced it anyway and the blower works fine now.

getochkn
01-16-2009, 03:07 PM
98 Caravan Sport SE, 3.3L. So about 6 months ago my heater/ac would only work on high. From reading that's usually the resistor block. Then last week I got no blowing at all. I had to bring it in to get the front end looked at and had them look at the heating. They said the blower motor is completly seized and thats why it wasn't working on lower levels, took a full 12v to get it going at all. Now that its not working, It seems that the circulation button/ac button will turn on even if the unit is completly off. Some other reading said that was a relay. I checked the fuse, fine, swapped the relay with another one (one for the horn I think, they looked the same) horn works, both buttons still work, switched the relays back, horn still works, fans don't, both buttons do. Could a dead motor cause all these problems? What else should I be looking at replacing. I trust the place I brought it to and they said they tested the motor and its seized right up, so I have a new motor to put in along with my tierods. Just wondering if that could cause all the problems or should I just be ready to replace the resistor block and relay as well. I'm having a friend do all the work for me, and we're going to a rent-a-bay place so I don't want to be wasting time having to run out and get stuff when we're paying for the bay by the hour. Where are abouts are the wires for blower motor. I could try and get at them and hook up the new motor I got just to test and see if it works before the weekend when we goto the garage so I can see if its the motor and if the new motor works. Pictures would help. I'm good with electronic electrical so I'm not worried about that, just never done much car work, so I don't know where anything is.

andye43
01-19-2009, 08:15 AM
For the '98 Sport, you find the power plug for the blower motor behind the glove box which is easy to remove or just flip down after you disengage the plastic support "cables" on either side. Sounds like you bought your motor already. I found local prices from $175 to $300+ and bought a new aftermarket on eBay for $60 delivered that works like the original.

HeadlessHorseman1
01-25-2009, 06:51 PM
98 Caravan Sport SE, 3.3L. So about 6 months ago my heater/ac would only work on high. From reading that's usually the resistor block. Then last week I got no blowing at all. I had to bring it in to get the front end looked at and had them look at the heating. They said the blower motor is completly seized and thats why it wasn't working on lower levels, took a full 12v to get it going at all. Now that its not working, It seems that the circulation button/ac button will turn on even if the unit is completly off. Some other reading said that was a relay. I checked the fuse, fine, swapped the relay with another one (one for the horn I think, they looked the same) horn works, both buttons still work, switched the relays back, horn still works, fans don't, both buttons do. Could a dead motor cause all these problems? What else should I be looking at replacing. I trust the place I brought it to and they said they tested the motor and its seized right up, so I have a new motor to put in along with my tierods. Just wondering if that could cause all the problems or should I just be ready to replace the resistor block and relay as well. I'm having a friend do all the work for me, and we're going to a rent-a-bay place so I don't want to be wasting time having to run out and get stuff when we're paying for the bay by the hour. Where are abouts are the wires for blower motor. I could try and get at them and hook up the new motor I got just to test and see if it works before the weekend when we goto the garage so I can see if its the motor and if the new motor works. Pictures would help. I'm good with electronic electrical so I'm not worried about that, just never done much car work, so I don't know where anything is.
I always replace the Blower Relay when I replace the Blower Motor - always. I only replace the Resistor Block when the Blower Motor runs at high-speed only or does not run at all.

HeadlessHorseman1
01-25-2009, 06:55 PM
Hi Everyone!

I just joined the club of 96-Dodge-Caravan-with-messed-up-heating-system owners about a week ago.

I just replaced the blower motor relay. I also wanted to replace the resistor block, but I noticed that the actual problem was with the resistor connecor which was completely fried. I called Napa, but they told me the connector per se needs to be ordered from the dealer himself - I don't believe in conspiracy theories, but I am sure there is one right here - they would only sell me that thing if they were to install the wires themselves, which makes about couple hundred bucks total, which I find ridiculous.

Hence, my question is: where on Earth can I order a resistor connector including the 5 wires... is there a place online? Anything?

Thanks a million for your help!

Cheers,
Daniela
Assuming your Dodge/Chrysler dealer is still in business, he should be happy to sell you the Resistor Block PIGTAIL you need. If not, find another dealer not suffering from dementia. There is a procedure in my original post about how to safely install this replacement pigtail, including marine-grade heat-shrink tubing (including lots of pictures). If you follow it word-for-word, you can't miss.

LiquidPain
01-29-2009, 08:43 PM
Such a resource! Thanks for the info! I swapped out the resistor on my 2001 in below zero weather in about two minutes! The hardest part was making sure I didn't break the plastic of the glove box. Now I have to search for fixes for my wife's car. Thanks again!

coopdavillage
02-03-2009, 11:51 PM
Ok I think I might have a stumper but lets see. I have searched the entire thread and uless I missed it my issue wasnt listed.

The issue I am having is my fan has the standard issue where it will work on all positions but #4 but it also will stop blowing sometimes and it takes a kick to the blower motor housing to get it to start up.
The biggest issue is that tonight when my fan was turned on (dark outside) my gauge needles started flipping out, the odometer blanked out, the headlights were flickering and the stereo was having issues as well. then we stopped and the cab lights didnt come on and there was a clicking under the dash.
My instincts tell me that its possibly the relay but I wanted to get any opinions that might help.
If its all 3 items I think I'm giong to take it out back and shoot it......

thanks in advance

Hanss
02-15-2009, 07:29 PM
I had the same problem with blower motor resistor on my Grand Caravan 2005. The Solutuion for this issue was pretty simple. Just change your TCO (thermal cutoff = thermal fuse). The original TCO has 240V/144C/10A. You can try to find it at any Radioshack Store in the States, but it is problem to find the same one in Canada. I did check all electronic component strores in my area and there is no way how to get the original one 240V/144C/10A.

However I found another solution for Canadian "Dodge Troublesh oters".:smile: You can use another TCO for 250V/141C/15A from NTE brand Part# NTE8139. Technical specs are here: http://www.nteinc.com/specs/8000to8999/pdf/TCOs.pdf (http://www.nteinc.com/specs/8000to8999/pdf/TCOs.pdf))

As far as the amperage for NTE8139 TCO is 10A continuous and original one is 10A also the 15A on NTE8139 is a Max. peak amperage. So it is fine to use a TCO that is higher rated than the one in dodge application but not one that is less. As far as the temperature rating fot NTE8139 TCO is almost the same, because the TCO tolerance is +/- 4C you can use it.


You can easily find it for $1.68 CDN at any electronic component stores or Radio Source stores Canada wide. In Ottawa area you can find it at Reset Electronic store or Active components store (check yellowpages for contact details).

There is no sense to buy a new thermal resistor ($40.00 CDN) because you have no guaranry that it's gonna work for a long time.

HeadlessHorseman1
03-03-2009, 09:33 PM
Just a couple of notes...

First, *thank you* everyone who came back and posted the results of the efforts to resolves their heating problems, especially if you had to create a new Automotive Forums account to do it... your follow up comments are enlightening and add immensely to the overall value of this thread!

Secondly, if you are trying to fix a 1999 Caravan or older and you have not yet replaced your Blower Motor RELAY as suggested, please DO IT! If you don't, worn and pitted contacts of the old relay will eventually provide less than full amperage/power from reaching the blower motor, preventing the motor from spinning at full RPM.

Old Blower Motor RELAY contacts can also weld themselves together in the closed position, causing the blower motor to continue running even after you have stopped the engine and removed the key... if this happens in cold weather, you will either very quickly run the battery dead or have to disconnect the battery to prevent this from happening.

Don't get caught away from home with kids in the car when this happens!

TheDevilIKnow
09-02-2009, 07:48 PM
Thank You HeadlessHorseman1 for your great postings on the HVAC front blower problems. I have a high mileage 96 Grand Voyager with the relay problem for sure as I've replaced the resistor module on the firewall but no change. The classic symptom is that the blower works on all settings then doesn't work. Or will come back on after driving for a while. My problem lies in finding the proper replacement for this relay. Does anyone have the part numbers for the 96 Voyager blower motor relay? I could do a wrecker stop but a used relay seems like good money after bad. The local dealer quoted an astronomical price for this relay that no one in their right mind would purchase for this vehicle. The part number the dealer quoted was 04788010. If there is a cost reference for this or the number is erroneous I would really appreciate a shout back. Regards All!

jpb53
09-02-2009, 09:24 PM
If you look at H H's original post again he gave the blower motor relay part# 4638094. If you go here and put in that number it will give you this #4727370AA which is the new part # and costs $7.48 if you buy it at that site.

TheDevilIKnow
09-03-2009, 12:17 AM
If you look at H H's original post again he gave the blower motor relay part# 4638094. If you go here and put in that number it will give you this #4727370AA which is the new part # and costs $7.48 if you buy it at that site.

Sorry man, I lost you after you said listen carefully!

If I go where? and put in part number 4638094 I'll be able to buy it at what site?

jpb53
09-03-2009, 10:07 AM
Sorry forgot the link!
http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/splash/index.cfm?siteid=214583

TheDevilIKnow
09-03-2009, 11:57 AM
Just a note for folks regarding the heat shrink that HH1 refers to in the posts. My buddy was doing his resistor block connector pigtail splice and he came back with some regular electronics heat shrink that does not have the gummy wax sealer inside. This protects your splice from moisture and oxidation. So when you're on your parts run make sure you get the marine grad heat shrink. This product has a few other names as well that I'm sure someone can add to the posts. Sometimes the devil's in the details.
Regards all!

Soultear
12-08-2009, 05:03 PM
Hello all,

I have been reading this very informative post and my brain is just frying like an egg. My 2005 GC 3.3 has just lost heat, but, here is the difference.

When I turn my heater on and set the two slides for driver/passenger all the way to full heat, I don't get heat. Now, my fan switch works in all positions, low thru high, and not just in high.The back fan works also.

Although my fan works in all speeds it only blows hot air when I rev the engine up over 3K RPMs. I suspect that that is just engine heat but never the less it's heat.

So, I have everything working as far as the fan blowing in all positions, now does that mean my relays are fine or would the fan/blower still blow if the relay was bad? Does the relay turn the actual HEATING unit on also?

I'm sorry if I'm sounding redundant but it just seems that in my case everything is blowing and working fine but just not blowing hot air.

Could any of this be due to a bad T-Stat?

Thanks,
Jeff

Same problem here. Googled my problem and found this site. Great thread BTW.

I almost have the same problem, but I do have alittle heat coming out the vents, but when I rev up the engine to about 2500-3000 RPM also, the blower motor kicks into high gear (Blows faster) and I get more heat out of the vents.

I have read the whole thread
-resister block for variable fan speed
-Blower Motor Relay for proper amps (40A)

Could my problem be the blower motor relay. My problem sounds like my blower motor not getting enough amps to spin at full RPM. Needs the engine to run at higher rpms to power the blower motor.

My second question would be; what does a AC/heat control module acually do? I read about that module somewheres in this thread also.

Vehicle is a 1994 Grand Voyager 3.8L. Great Vehicle besides dumping the tranny pan every 20000km to change the fluids filter. leant my lesson about these trannys when I had to actually replace my last one, $2500, ouch.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

PDModel98
12-08-2009, 07:46 PM
2005 Chrysler Town and Country:
I switched fuse & blower motor relay with the back fan and the back fan still works yet the front fan is still out.
I tried testing the resistor block and the 2 leads going to the blowewr both show hot all the time....any thoughts?

Hanss
12-09-2009, 02:06 AM
Same problem here. Googled my problem and found this site. Great thread BTW.

I almost have the same problem, but I do have alittle heat coming out the vents, but when I rev up the engine to about 2500-3000 RPM also, the blower motor kicks into high gear (Blows faster) and I get more heat out of the vents.

I have read the whole thread
-resister block for variable fan speed
-Blower Motor Relay for proper amps (40A)

Could my problem be the blower motor relay. My problem sounds like my blower motor not getting enough amps to spin at full RPM. Needs the engine to run at higher rpms to power the blower motor.

My second question would be; what does a AC/heat control module acually do? I read about that module somewheres in this thread also.

Vehicle is a 1994 Grand Voyager 3.8L. Great Vehicle besides dumping the tranny pan every 20000km to change the fluids filter. leant my lesson about these trannys when I had to actually replace my last one, $2500, ouch.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

**************************************
Hi Guys,

I had this problem about 2 years ago. Unfortunately It has nothing to do with blower motor or thermal resistor and relay. If you have to rev the engine up about 2K-3K RPMs in order to get heated flow - you are facing another problem.
It looks like the problem with your engine cooling system. I belive you don't have enough coolant fluid (Antifreeze). Based on my experience if
you rev the engine up to 3K RPMs you need to add coolant fluid about 1.0L-1.5L more. That means you are losing coolant somewhere. Just check your coolant level.

When you rev your engine up and running the engine on higher RPMs you increasing the pressure inside your cooling system, that means you increasing coolant circulation inside of cooling system, that is why you can get heated air flow on higher RPMs. Because your heater is a part of cooling system.

There are several reasons for coolant losing: coolant pump, engine radiator, heater radiator, coolant system hoses.
You need to perform a "high pressure test" to find out where is a leak and why you are losing coolant. It's possible only on dealership or prof. automotive mechanic.

AC/heat control module just managing air flow whatever it is cold or hot. Cold air flow comming from AC (if it's ON) or from outside, hot air flow coming from engine cooling system. That is a key factor of your problem.

It's Winter time......, so temporarily solution is just check your coolant level and add more coolant up to level mark. But you'll never know how long you can run on it.
It's better to go to prof. mechanic and solve it.

In my case, after "high pressure test" I've found my coolant pump leaking, replaced it. That's it.

All the best.
************************************************** ******

vandamn
02-16-2010, 07:02 AM
hi
i am having similar heat related problem with my 2005 caravan. the heater blower does not work. believe cause to be from a dead battery. after charge of battery blower would not turn on. could not find info on calibration sequence for this model. looked in owners manual with no luck. can anyone help me with this.
thanks

coopdavillage
02-17-2010, 02:04 AM
you should do what i just did and get rid of it and buy something more reliable ;)

tempfixit
02-19-2010, 02:14 PM
vandamn

Read this thread it may help and also do a search using heater fan control calibration and you should see number of threads pertaining to heater problems.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=658869&highlight=heater+fan+control+calibration

coopdavillage, I assume you upgraded to a recall Toyota.

HeadlessHorseman1
04-07-2010, 04:19 PM
In the 5 years that have passed since I originally started this thread, I have not encountered any problems that would require additional troiubleshooting with regard to heater/blower motor issues... here's a new one... after you have replaced your Blower Motor Relay 3 or 4 times, it may be necessary to purchase electronic contact cleanining spray to remove gunk from the socket into which the blower motor relay replacement is inserted. Do it every time you replace the Blower Moter Relay!!!

HeadlessHorseman1
04-07-2010, 04:31 PM
There's someting else I wanted to say... don't cheap out on your heating/cooling blower motor issues! Remember, if you replace your Blower Motor and Blower Motor Relay together (which you should do!), your success rate will significantly improve. If your fuse is good and you haven't replaced your Resistor Block after 200,000 miles, do so right away and avoid the winter-induced inconvenience.

Take it from someone who now has 301,000 miles on his Dodge Grand Caravan LE 3.8L!!!

That's right... 301,000 miles.

HeadlessHorseman1
04-14-2010, 05:57 AM
There's someting else I wanted to say... don't cheap out on your heating/cooling blower motor issues! Remember, if you replace your Blower Motor and Blower Motor Relay together (which you should do!), your success rate will significantly improve. If your fuse is good and you haven't replaced your Resistor Block after 200,000 miles, do so right away and avoid the winter-induced inconvenience.

Take it from someone who now has 301,000 miles on his Dodge Grand Caravan LE 3.8L!!!

That's right... 301,000 miles.

One more thing... I had to use electrical connection cleaner spray to blow out gunk that has built up in the Blower Motor Relay socket in order for a new relay to work properly. I recommend applying a very light coat of di-electric grease on the relay contacts (with a Q-tip) before inserting a new relay into the newly-cleaned socket.

RIP
04-14-2010, 12:19 PM
Still among the best threads on any forum. A big thanks for constant updates HH.

sugar al
05-17-2010, 01:04 AM
I have a 2000 caravan 3.3 my issue is when running the AC and the blower set on high. Normally when the recirculate button is activated the AC temp coming out of the vents would get colder (max) and you could hear the fans either running stronger or faster. But recently it just started acting different, now the temp never changes nor the fan speed or sound stays constant, but the reciculate button does light up. I'm not sure where to start checking?

TheDevilIKnow
05-19-2010, 02:59 AM
Perhaps you might try removing the HVAC Control Module and check the 21 pin connector on the module. It's easy to get at with only 4 screws. The top 2 screws are readily accessible. Pull the drink tray open and remove the little garnish trim above the drink tray to expose the bottom screws. The trim piece just pops off with spring clips. These connectors have a habit of melting down or come loose then melt down. If you find the connector compromised there is a kit to repair the connection from Chrysler. If you find a problem there you can check out the "poop" on this repair on the Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forum.
Remember this is an electronic control module that sends info over the CCD bus so you have to ensure that all those 21 pins are making good contact. This problem can also cause issues with your rear wiper and instrument cluster to name a few.
:devilsign:
Regards..Happy Motoring

sugar al
05-19-2010, 10:46 PM
Perhaps you might try removing the HVAC Control Module and check the 21 pin connector on the module. It's easy to get at with only 4 screws. The top 2 screws are readily accessible. Pull the drink tray open and remove the little garnish trim above the drink tray to expose the bottom screws. The trim piece just pops off with spring clips. These connectors have a habit of melting down or come loose then melt down. If you find the connector compromised there is a kit to repair the connection from Chrysler. If you find a problem there you can check out the "poop" on this repair on the Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forum.
Remember this is an electronic control module that sends info over the CCD bus so you have to ensure that all those 21 pins are making good contact. This problem can also cause issues with your rear wiper and instrument cluster to name a few.
:devilsign:
Regards..Happy Motoring


Thanks for taking the time for the reply. It makes sense to check out that connector and the contact pins. I'll do that in the next few days and get back with results. Thanks Again!

crotext
06-28-2010, 04:29 PM
:tongue: This article was a sanity saver for me. I had already taken
everything apart and actually retried the relay before finding this.
I was going crazy trying to find a 4 prong relay when all the
replacements were 5. I can't tell you how happy I was to
read the part about the interchange from 4 to 5.

I too would enjoy strangling the engineer who hid the relay
where it is. Even the parts guy at the dealer in Billings, MT
said that relay doesn't exist until I laid it on his counter.

I have a couple color pics of the open dash area if anyone
wants them I can email to them.

Thanks much for the help!

Winot
07-15-2010, 03:00 PM
Thanks so much for the information regarding the resistor. R&R was easy and it was definitely the ticket to the mystery of having only the high a/c fan blower problem. You have certainly made summer driving much more pleasant! Thanks again!

troutponds
07-22-2010, 03:22 PM
HH
The information is spot on. Getting the resistor in and out is a pain but the A/C works on all speeds again. I found the part at my local parts house. $14.50 plus tax. I found the same problem someone else mentioned. The new resistor does not fit as snug into the opening as the old one. Thanks to everyone for posting.

RoyF
07-24-2010, 12:26 PM
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. The blower in my 2000 Chrysler Town & Country stopped working on all but the highest speed. A google search for the problem led me to this thread. The repair was a lot simpler than I anticipated. The resistor block was about $12 at my local NAPA store with AAA discount. I used a bent wire clothes hanger to help pull the old one out. During removal, one of the clips broke off and the other bent making the removal easy except for clearance to pull the part all the way out. Removing the screw that holds the air conditioner hose bracket (as suggested in this thread) gave the necessary clearance. Luckily, the plug and contacts were fine. The plug separated from the part with just a little effort. The failure was a burnt out resistor wire. Installing the new part was literally a snap! :) Roy

ronrule
10-06-2010, 11:49 AM
I'm going to be replacing the blower relay and motor on a 1999 Town & Country soon. If anyone has tips on location that differs from these excellent instructions, I'd love to hear them! Thanks!

davidhbrown
12-08-2010, 09:40 PM
Thanks everyone who's contributed to this thread, especially mudnut for his clear photos of a very similar model and HeadlessHorseman for keeping the top entry organized (until he became HeadlessHorseman1, I guess).

So, add another success for replacing the resistor block to get the slow fan speeds back. 2001 Grand Caravan "Sport" configuration with the 3.3/flex engine. Was able to get the part for $19.99 plus tax in-stock at the local Autozone. Their "Duralast" (captive brand) part number JA1473. The only thing that took any time was reading through this wonderful thread and getting a bit of electrical contact grease on each of those blades.

(At this point, I think it would be cruel to ask for a quote from a dealer. Probably a minimum of $40 for the part, half-hour diagnostic fee, half-hour [hah!] to replace... say $100. Savings at least $75 paying myself zero wage.)

I also need to do the rear, but getting the panels off will be a lot more work then just popping the glove box was. NAPA seems to have the part for about the same $20 (Echlin Ignition ECH BR393; Autozone wants $30 for their JA1474); both sources likely require a special order. EDIT: NAPA online just canceled my order for that part, saying they have no stock and no ETA. Local store doesn't have it either. Will try Autozone next, I guess.


While I admire, understand, and agree with HH's suggestion to do the relay and blower at the same time, just the resistor was so easy and effective that I am going to wait for them to break for real.

Oh, and I should also mention that I took someone's advice on this thread to check the cabin air filter. The filter material wasn't really clogged, but it had trapped a surprising amount of fibrous material which I vacuumed off. (I'll replace the filter for real soon). I suspect we had a mouse nibbling on soundproofing or something. Lack of airflow might have caused the thermal fuse to blow... it is reading infinite resistance across that piece of the resistor block.

tdcorona09
12-14-2010, 10:52 PM
Thanks to the help of this forum! I do believe I need a motor and relay :) Where is the best place to purchase this price wise?

urclueless
12-15-2010, 06:33 AM
Thanks to the help of this forum! I do believe I need a motor and relay :) Where is the best place to purchase this price wise?

The BEST place is where you find the BEST deal. YOU can do the research. www.napaonline.com (http://www.napaonline.com) www.autozone.com (http://www.autozone.com) www.advanceautoparts.com (http://www.advanceautoparts.com) www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com) www.ebay.com (http://www.ebay.com) www.jcwhitney.com (http://www.jcwhitney.com) www.northernauto.com (http://www.northernauto.com) www.pepboys.com (http://www.pepboys.com) www.oreillyauto.com (http://www.oreillyauto.com) www.federatedautoparts.com (http://www.federatedautoparts.com)

HeadlessHorseman1
05-14-2011, 10:25 PM
After 15 years and 301,131 miles my beloved '96 LE safely ushered my wife and four children, I finally retired my Caravan. I wish all of you well and hope that your problems are few and resolutions are quick.

With 75,000+ views and many success stories, I want to thank everyone for contributing to this thread and reporting their successes... for making this thread far better than it was when I kicked it off a few years back.

To everyone, I offer this Irish Blessing...

May the road rise to meet you.
May the wind be always at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face.
And rains fall soft upon your fields.
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the hollow of His hand.

Peace.

-HeadlessHorseman1

PhatBasstard
05-26-2011, 07:51 PM
Not sure if this has come up:
1999 Plymouth Voyager.
Blower works sometimes.
All speeds, but all working or nothing.

When not working, turning the blower switch to the "off" position will not cancel the AC or Recirculate buttons if engaged either.
When blower is running, blower switch activates and deactivates AC and Recirculate buttons (if engaged) as it should.
AC is clearly working (when button engaged) even when the blower is not as you can clearly hear/feel the compressor start/stop.

Checked all pertinent fuses. Replaced the relay (just in case). Cleaned all fuse and relay contact points.
I had a feeling it may be something to do with the AC module/circuit board itself so I took that apart to look for any corrosion or bad solder points and to clean all the contacts and switch. Didn't work.
I'm currently checking the pic a part type yards for a module I can swap just in case it's one of the IC chips or something but have not found one yet.

As I was typing this post I was hard booting (battery disconected for 1 hour+) the vehicle computer and everything fired up as it should. But this has happened before when I thought I had the problem fixed.

Anybody with similar problem/solution.

PS. Did not check the Blower Resistor as it was basically impossible to remove without taking apart some modifications done by my Uncle (previous owner). :screwy::wink:

HeadlessHorseman1
05-30-2011, 09:52 PM
Not sure if this has come up:
1999 Plymouth Voyager.
Blower works sometimes.
All speeds, but all working or nothing.
:screwy::wink:

I remember reading on this board about a way to reset A/C and heater controls by pressing certain buttons together (maybe) and then another button or two to basically cold reboot these controls. I'm not sure where I saw it her, but maybe RIP, the sysadmin of this board can help you. If you can get a message to him (or her), I'm sure you'll get the help you need. Good luck!

HH

PhatBasstard
05-30-2011, 11:09 PM
I remember reading on this board about a way to reset A/C and heater controls by pressing certain buttons together (maybe) and then another button or two to basically cold reboot these controls. I'm not sure where I saw it her, but maybe RIP, the sysadmin of this board can help you. If you can get a message to him (or her), I'm sure you'll get the help you need. Good luck!

HHDid a hard reboot (battery disconnect for 1 hour+) to the whole system a few days ago and messed with the blower resistor a little bit. Not sure what did what, but it's been almost a week and my Wife (her vehicle) said it's been working flawlessly since. Who knows. :grinno:

michfixit
10-22-2011, 02:32 PM
This thread was very helpful to me.

My blower only works on high. I replaced the resistor block. Same results. Now what to do....????

1. Could it be a corroded wiring connector? It doesn't look all that great.
2. Is there only the one fuse for the blower? It does work on high, so I am not sure here. Is there a fuse I should be checking?
3. Please don't tell me I have to replace that awful relay...

I am lost on this issue. Help??

Thanks!

michfixit
10-22-2011, 04:41 PM
This thread was very helpful to me.

My blower only works on high. I replaced the resistor block. Same results. Now what to do....????

1. Could it be a corroded wiring connector? It doesn't look all that great.
2. Is there only the one fuse for the blower? It does work on high, so I am not sure here. Is there a fuse I should be checking?
3. Please don't tell me I have to replace that awful relay...

I am lost on this issue. Help??

Thanks!

Updated info: It *seems* as though this situation of only high-speed blower occurred before and then it went away and all speeds worked fine. Now it is back. This makes me think the connector is bad, maybe causing intermittent failure. Anyway, the new block didn't solve it and when looking at connector it looks pretty rusty. I had to work it a LOONNGG time to get apart and even used vice grips.

Maybe that is my key that I might just solve the problem w/ new pigtail??

michfixit
10-24-2011, 02:35 PM
"Blower only on high" problem is SOLVED!!! Yipee!!

This update might help someone. I have fixed my problem w/ help from this thread, so I hope I can also help someone else out.

I went to the junkyard to rip out another wiring harness for $1, thinking I will have to splice in another and replace mine - rather than paying $30 for a new one. Yes, we are cheap, correct?

Anyway, while tinkering at the junkyard I noticed that the blue colored cap on the harness just pops right off. Hmmmm....This exposes the connectors better, revealing the skinny black prongs you can push back to allow each wire to be pulled out of the harness. Hahahaa...cleaning is all that is necessary - NOT a new harness!!

Two of my 5 connectors on the harness were quite corroded, but w/ some electrical connection cleaner and a really thin screw driver I just did the best I could in hopes of scraping off the corrosion to make good contact. I could not get these 2 wires out of the harness since they must have gotten too hot at one point and melted the release prong to the metal and so they wouldn't come out. The rest came out easily. With these 2 bad ones, I just, like I said, did my best to clean them while they were stuck in the harness. Back and forth in in/out over and over w/ a skinnnnyyyy screwdriver - scraping the crud. This worked ok....since voila! I have all my blower speeds working now!

Remember, try cleaning the wires by releasing each of them out of the harness, or you might also try just spraying down the entire harness w/ cleaner. This took a little time, but it was definitely quicker than splicing in a new harness from the stealership.

Also, I put on some electrical grease to prevent corrosion on my new connection.

So, w/ a new resistor block and a cleaned wiring harness, one can be back in business! No splicing and no stealership ripoff....Hahahahahahahah!!!!!!

:smile::smile::smile::smile:

Alphabravo
10-24-2011, 06:06 PM
Thanks for posting the fix.

Philbert75
01-27-2012, 06:48 PM
I just wanted to tell you that your info on the Blower Motor only running on hi speed helped me to fix the problem. I pried out the resistor block from under the hood of my 98 Plymouth Voyuager with a long skinny blade screwdriver. i stuck the blade under the right side of the block and pried it out gently from that side. I then pulled it out by hand from the left side. I looked at the little coil resistor wire connections on the block and could see were one of the connections was broken loose.. I called my local auto parts store and they had one available for just $10.50. It is a touchy issue to remove it and also put it back in, but if you are patient, it will come out and go back in with little loss of blood. Before you go to the local dealership to buy this part, check with you Autozone, Advanced Auto or O'Reillys autopart stores and you will find it there at a verylow price. Thanks again for all your good advice.

HeadlessHorseman1
02-20-2012, 08:31 AM
...It is a touchy issue to remove it and also put it back in, but if you are patient, it will come out and go back in with little loss of blood.
Hehehe... I lost blood when I replaced the Resistor Block. Everyone, beware! And, btw, congrats on saving yourself around 100 buck$ by fixing this yourself. -HH

case548
04-11-2012, 08:27 AM
I just changed the blower motor resister on my 2002 Chrysler Town and Country mini van. Couldn't have been easier. Open glove compartment, put all of the wife's cosmetics in the box the part came in. Squeeze each side so the front drops all the way down. The resister is staring you in the face. Un plug, un bolt, rebolt, replug. Close the glove compartment. 5 minutes. :licka: Part was $13.50 on Amazon.com :naughty:

RIP
04-12-2012, 01:55 AM
This video shows how to troubleshoot and replace a front blower resistor on 4th generation vans (2001-2007) It has helped many on this and other forums: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsazws_za4k

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