Stalling Tahoe (again)


sturgut
01-01-2005, 04:37 PM
As winter set's in, my 1996 Tahoe which has been very reliable is occassionally stalling around 10mph...randomly of course, can't be recreated at will. When it stalls I loose all power (no lights on dash, no steering, no brakes). I pull over and turn the key back to stop position, put in drive and it start right up. This makes me think it's an electrical problem. Could it be as simple as cleaning the battery contacts? Or is there some electrical element (like a relay) that is malfunctioning?

Thanks in advance.

Jeremy-WI
01-01-2005, 05:37 PM
Try cleaning the battery connections, have been known to corrode and loosen themselves

95tahoe4x4
01-02-2005, 01:08 AM
K.

Chevy has had a problem from day one since they switched to the side post battery hook ups.

Take a visual inspection of the positive battery cable, if it looks "swollen" right after the hookup at the battery it has corrosion and needs to be replaced. I have traced corrosion by spliting the plastic covering about 24 inches from the battery!

Just for curiosity sakes, unhook the positive terminal (5/16's), see if there is a build up of corrosion. If there is, replace the whole positive wire harness, to the starter and to the fuse block!

Chevy has two positive wires, one to the starter and one to the fuse panel under the hood, it too can be corroded and cause some interesting starting/driveability issues.

Kt

txgearhead
01-05-2005, 07:32 PM
I have the same problem, except it occurs randomly just after starting and I make it about 5-10 feet. It has never done it while driving at speed. When it dies, the engine dies the lights go out, and then everything immediately comes back on, except the engine. like a starter kill cuts power and turns it back on.
Wouldn't corrosion get progressively worse over time? My experience with corroded terms is when they go, you don't get power instantly back and everything starts right back up. Yesterday was the first time in a month it has happened and then it was 3x in 1 day.

95tahoe4x4
01-06-2005, 12:53 AM
Yes the situation will get worse over time, but I have seen some pretty bad cables that still started the truck under the right conditions. Your dash lights and radio do not take as much juice to turn on as cranking the starter. The cables are easy to check and easy to replace, make sure you follow the lead going to the fuse block, it to can cause issues. If it is all checked out as o.k., I would take it to a shop, there are other electrical issues you are dealing with. It could be a relay, but which one? If there is build up inside the side connector, save yourself the headache later and just replace the whole cable, and use A/C Delco parts.

Kt

txgearhead
01-06-2005, 07:43 AM
Sound advice, thank you!

gurrzt
01-06-2005, 10:32 AM
I do not think it is a battery problem, because you say the vehicle turns over, and THEN it stalls, but you can start it back up. Once the battery cranks the starter, its job is done, and the alternater takes over to charge back the battery.

I would guess it is a fuel delivery problem. Have you ever changed your in line fuel filter? This could be the culprit, if it is clogged it will shut you down quick.

SteveC :)

txgearhead
01-06-2005, 11:46 AM
Actually, I just bought it a month ago. So, no I haven't changed the Inline fuel filter. But not knowing when it was last changed, I've got one ready all ready to go. I was curious if it possibly could be a Passlock issue. I never remember to see if the security light comes on though.

sturgut
01-07-2005, 06:02 PM
My mechanic thinks I'm nuts...he doesn't believe if the battery were to disconnect while driving (due to corroded cables) the Tahoe should not lose power. Is that right?...what does everyone think? What else could it be?

supcabman
01-07-2005, 06:32 PM
my terminal got corroded and did just the same thing so tell your mechanic he is crazy it loses connection and it is dead go out and move it around a little and it works cleaned and tightened it and no problem since

Blazin56
02-04-2005, 08:42 AM
I've had that problem before,exept mine won't start at all. I don't believe it's your battery. It is used to start the vehicle,you can unhook the battery while running and it will not die. Many tahoes have problems with the passlock system. The anti-theft will kick in and shut off the fuel pump along with the power. Before it shuts off, the security light should come on. The only way I know of to rectify the problem is replace the passlock system or deactivate it. Check with a dealer and they should give you more info on the passlock system
Good Luck!

txgearhead
02-06-2005, 06:29 AM
I've had that problem before,exept mine won't start at all. I don't believe it's your battery. It is used to start the vehicle,you can unhook the battery while running and it will not die. Many tahoes have problems with the passlock system. The anti-theft will kick in and shut off the fuel pump along with the power. Before it shuts off, the security light should come on. The only way I know of to rectify the problem is replace the passlock system or deactivate it. Check with a dealer and they should give you more info on the passlock system
Good Luck!

I noticed that last time my Tahoe stalled, the security light flashed 3 times ( that I saw ). Simultaneously, I pressed the brake, threw it into nuetral, and cycled the ignition back to OFF. By then, the security light had quit flashing and I was able to start. w\no problems. I also make it a point not to rush through the starting sequence, let the dash lights cycle through and then I start. Theory being, if the Passlock is bad, trying to rush it will defintely not better the situation.

I don't know which to tackle 1st, the EVO or Passlock?!? :bs:

levrage
12-23-2005, 07:09 PM
I have an 01 Tahoe that will stall when I am turning into a parking lot(or turning in general) at low speed usually at 0- 5mph on random occasions. Have any of you found a solution to this problem? Also, Ive had this sound that comes from what seems to be my brake region that sound like something such as a bolt or the likes is loose and moving around making a kind of rubbing noise(metal to metal). Its heard best when Im traveling close to say, a road divider. Any thoughts?

Genopsyde
12-27-2008, 12:14 AM
I know this thread is old, but I really don't care since this problem obviously hasn't been solved.

my 98 just starting doing this same thing tonite. stalling at low speed and and idle, whether it's under a load or in park. I've had it for almost a year now and it hasn't given me any problems at all until now. I will be checking the battery connections first because after driving for awhile and everything is warmed up, the voltage will start to drop to 12-13 volts while running. There is no ses light but I will scan anyway.

and about the whole thing with the car only needing the battery to start and after that you could d/c the battery and it will still run...This is untrue, you ecm and fuse box is connected directly to the battery and if it loses connection the car will shut down, lights and all. I had this issue with a 94 cutlass and the positive cable that ran to the post for the underhood fuse panel was loose, once tightened, it never happened again.

That only works for older non computer controlled cars.

Genopsyde
12-27-2008, 06:57 AM
and about the whole thing with the car only needing the battery to start and after that you could d/c the battery and it will still run...This is untrue, you ecm and fuse box is connected directly to the battery and if it loses connection the car will shut down, lights and all. I had this issue with a 94 cutlass and the positive cable that ran to the post for the underhood fuse panel was loose, once tightened, it never happened again.

That only works for older non computer controlled cars.

disregard that statement, after a bit of thought, I realize it's not accurate.

Jeremy-WI
01-01-2009, 03:23 PM
It pretty much changed when they switched from top post to side post. With top post there was only one positive and one negative clamp and when you disconnect the positive wire when running the alternator could still supply the electrical power to the vehicle.

On my 96 with side posts, there are two positive connectors and one negative, if I disconnect the negative it should still run since the power source is now the alternator and will provide path to ground. But if I remove the positive post it depends on if the two positives keep continuity as to whether the vehicle keeps running or dies. If GM would have bonded the alternator feed to the wire that powers most of the vehicle instead of the starter lead, once started the vehicle would run even if the positive post were removed

maxwedge
01-01-2009, 05:31 PM
Good way to fry an alternator, dicsonnecting the cable while running!!

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