1998 Ford Taurus --Transmission problem---

Then I am driving my car and everything seems fine. I come to a stop light transmission jumps out of gear. Then I have to hit in reverse and then to drive; and car starts moveing with no problems until next stop.

Some ideas? Vehicle has 3.0 liter engine with 150k.

My car does the same thing. I purchased it this past summer, and had no problems for about 3,000 miles. Then I started having trouble when I had to stop for a traffic light or stop sign. I didn't change to reverse gear, though--I just sat there, and after a couple of seconds it would all of a sudden jump into gear and take off. It did this to me in a very random manner for a couple of weeks, then stopped. It has about 103,000 miles on it, and I would like to know what is going on, and how many others have the same problem.

I think i need another transmission...

yes, this is the typical AX4S transmission failure, it is caused by one of the pistons inside the transmission warping. be happy though, 150k out of an AX4S is really good!

how i hind out which tipe of transmission is in my Taurus: AX4S or AX4N ?

if your transmission pan has an AX4N, then you have an AX4N, if it says anything other than AX4N, then you have an AX4S

How much usually costs to replace transmission and where can i buy it?

Dont want to get oily? The Vehicle Certification Label on the drivers side door jam identifies the auto type. Under the "TR" code, L = AX4S, X = AX4N. At least on my 99 Taurus.

Thanks LarryKL, I found that my transmission is AXAN (like you said i looked at thr label on the drivers side door).
Maybe somebody knows approximately how much is to put new trans?

a remanufactured trans is about $1800-$2100 with install depending on how good the warranty you get is and where you live.

I think< drdisque> that 1800-2100 is to much, i saw remanufactured trans on ebay for 650, plus labor, so i think it will be around 1100, maybe less....

Great. Mine is doing the samething.

Gods of Ford Taurus's:

Is there anything else this could be?

nope, not really. The only symptom remotely transmission related thats a quick fix is surging accompanied by a violently moving speedometer, this just requires a new VSS.

If you have some basic tools, this is something you can repair and save yourself $2000. You can buy a lot of tools with the $2000 you save.

That's what I did. I used this as an excuse to buy some better tools, and I had never touched a tranny before. It took me about a day to get the valve body out of the engine compartment. Once the valve body is out, you could even pay someone else to fix the valve body for a couple hundred. It only took a few hours to put the car back together.

You don't need to remove the engine. You loosen the driver's side main cross member (but not from passenger side), and remove the transimssion/engine motor mount (frame) and isolation pad. (With the engine supported of course.)

The Haynes manual will help you get the motor mount and isolation pad out (with a good picture of it too). Find a small tranny shop and see if they will show you what the valve body looks like and where it is located. Once you see it out of the car, it will be easier to understand where it is in your car.

The most frustrating part for me was getting all the little crapp out of the way from above the engine. (battery box and wiring harnesses).

Before I had started, I was fairly sure that a $5 retaining clip was at fault, as this is very common on the AX4N. It turns out my pump self destructed. I bought a used valve body (including pump, solenoids, and new pump shaft) for $200.

Oh, I almost forgot. Most tranny shops will connect your car to the computer for $50 and pull out the tranny codes. I actually found an AAMCO shop that pulled the codes for free. Plus the guy showed me the valve body (and suspect retaining clip).

Your car needs a postion sensor and this is a common problem and only costs around $50. It is a device that tells the tranny what gear you selected. If broken it will change gears sporodically

this was a common prob in 91 to 96 models not sure if this might have carried out to the newer cars.

Hi

I am having the car (96 LX) not moving unless I start in 2nd and then it will go into 3rd and 4th OK when I move the transmission control to D. When I come to a stop it requires me to move the lever again to 2nd to get rolling again. Reverse is normal.

Encouraged by your post I was looking at the possibility of removing the main control valve body to see if that would hold the solution to my problem.

I photo copied the Motor Auto Repair Manual pages at the library. However when I remove the battery holder it seems there is not enough space between the transmission and frame to permit removal of the cover.

Do the internals of the main control valve body not protrude more than 2 7/8"? The cover is about 3 1/4" deep.

Also did you have to jack up the engine/tranny to get the cover to clear the frame?

Thanks and best regards,

Al

ps I designed the LM386 audio amp for National Semiconductor in 1972....

I hope I'm not breaking a forum rule, but I recently wrote complete instructions (including pictures) for removing the valve body out of the tranny without removing the tranny.

The instructions are posted at the Taurus Car Club of America forum in the drivetrain section.

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=13884

My transmission started making some noises (like something broken inside).

Thanks LarryKL, I found that my transmission is AXAN (like you said i looked at thr label on the drivers side door).
Maybe somebody knows approximately how much is to put new trans?
hey la-z-boy were you able to find a tranny (ax4n for your car yet or did you sell it ) i had the same problem you had so i went to my locale salavage yards and found one for $450.00 +$150.00 core so what im trying to say is that for a little less than $900.00 my car runs fine w/out any problems and all work was done by me with alittle help from a haynes repair manule

Thanks LarryKL, I found that my transmission is AXAN (like you said i looked at thr label on the drivers side door).
Maybe somebody knows approximately how much is to put new trans?
hey la-z-boy were you able to find a tranny (ax4n for your car yet or did you sell it ) i had the same problem you had so i went to my locale salavage yards and found one for $450.00 +$150.00 core so what im trying to say is that for a little less than $900.00 my car runs fine w/out any problems and all work was done by me with alittle help from a haynes repair manule

Did you pull the whole transmission or just the end cover (is the valve body under the end cover)? I have been trying to drop my transmission for a couple of days now and can not get it to come out. I have removed ALL motor mounts and shoved the front of the engine against the passenger wheel well and can still don't have room for the tranny to drop out--is there a secret method I am not privy too? The end cover on the drivers side is hanging up the tranny. I can probably get that off, but am afraid to put the repaired tranny back in with the cover off---

Can any one lead me to the correct tranny drop procedure?

1997 Taurus


If you have some basic tools, this is something you can repair and save yourself $2000. You can buy a lot of tools with the $2000 you save.

That's what I did. I used this as an excuse to buy some better tools, and I had never touched a tranny before. It took me about a day to get the valve body out of the engine compartment. Once the valve body is out, you could even pay someone else to fix the valve body for a couple hundred. It only took a few hours to put the car back together.

You don't need to remove the engine. You loosen the driver's side main cross member (but not from passenger side), and remove the transimssion/engine motor mount (frame) and isolation pad. (With the engine supported of course.)

The Haynes manual will help you get the motor mount and isolation pad out (with a good picture of it too). Find a small tranny shop and see if they will show you what the valve body looks like and where it is located. Once you see it out of the car, it will be easier to understand where it is in your car.

The most frustrating part for me was getting all the little crapp out of the way from above the engine. (battery box and wiring harnesses).

Before I had started, I was fairly sure that a $5 retaining clip was at fault, as this is very common on the AX4N. It turns out my pump self destructed. I bought a used valve body (including pump, solenoids, and new pump shaft) for $200.

Oh, I almost forgot. Most tranny shops will connect your car to the computer for $50 and pull out the tranny codes. I actually found an AAMCO shop that pulled the codes for free. Plus the guy showed me the valve body (and suspect retaining clip).

I have a 1998 taurus and i am trying to decide if i should get it fix or trade it in. I was driving and the car would be trying to change gear and jerk so i thought it was the type of gas i put in it so i changed the gas and it was driving ok until i got home and tryed to back my car up into the driveway at first it didnot want to go into gear but then it went into gear and i was able to back it into my driveway. But once i parked it fluid came out of the bottom of it and i have not moved it since. I have talked to about 3 people and everyone is saying it sound like my transmission is gone. Some one please help me in making a decision also it was just rolling over to 160,000miles on my car...HELP!!!!!

I have seen the VSS wire cause jerking and posted my fix.
Jerking Transmission.
THe VSS is what is telling the car when to shift. if its bad, Well you get the PIX.

I would think a bad trannie mostly slipps not shifts.

Good luck

I wouldn't expect the VSS to affect the transmission going into reverse (as an open VSS would report the car is not moving) and it would be even less likely to cause a leak when the car is stopped.

Pull the transmission dipstick and check for signs 1) of fluid still in the transmission and 2) little flakes (or chunks) of metal.

If it appears there is no fluid in the tranny, get under the car and take a look for where the leak is coming from. If there is a crack in the case or something similar, I think you know what the major problem is. If you don't see anything obvious, then pull the pan and check for chunks.

Or, have it towed to a tranny shop for an estimate.

-Rod

Sorry if this is out of rule, but I just want to say goodbye!
My trani went off due to a bad sevice done at Jiffy Lube. I had a 96 3.0 Gl with 101 000 miles, when 80 thousand miles I had to rebuild the trani, and now 20 thousand miles later gone! but I don't think it was the trani, as I said before service badly done! So I got myself a Kia :) so I'll be posting in the other room. Have a great time and take care.