Aftermarket Alternators - You guys were right!

There have been several posts on this forum from Joel and others warning us that aftermarket alternators are prone to early failure. They are right! It happened to me. Unfortunately, I did not see those posts until AFTER I bought a replacement alternator from Pep Boys. Five months later, it has gone bad. (Not completely; it generates less than 14 volts at idle only, causing weird electrical problems at idle.) Pep Boys tested it and said "it works fine, you have an electrical problem somewhere else." I subsequently took it to the local Isuzu dealer, who said "internal alternator failure."

The lesson: Pay the extra $200 or so and have the dealer replace a bad alternator. (Dealer quote = $465 compared to $255 at Pep Boys.)

I've seen these alternators on ebay, are they considered oem, or should they not be used: (cost about $220)

they read as:
Alternator - Hitachi IR/IF

165 Amp, 14.8 Volt Set Point, CW, 6-Groove Pulley

Used On:

(1998) Honda Passport 3.2L

(1998) Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L

Replaces: Hitachi LR160-730, Isuzu 8-97104-101-1, -2

example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944145738&category=33573&sspagename=WDVW

MrMGA- sorry you got bit by that one. Seems like more & more newer cars suffer from this same issue. Sometimes you'll get lucky with a reman alternator (or starter), but it's rare. I have had good luck with Napa products (alternators & starters), but should I ever have to replace my 'zu alternator, it will most definately be a new OEM replacement.
G/luck!
Joel

I checked every parts house and dealer in town (in Orange county, CA) and the dealer alternators are expensive (more than 500 bucks). AutoZone's is a Duralast reman, but lifetime warranty--buying that may mean you sweat when it goes, but won't apy again. PepBoys is a reman Bosch, Kragen/Checker couldn't get me one and NAPA was a reman Hitachi in either the 65, 70 or 90 amp model. I think Hitachi is the OEM so taht's what's going in tonight. 3 year warranty on it (the lifetime adds a hundred bucks). I saw the 165 amp unit on eBay and am sorely tempted, but would rather have the added security of a local store from a national chain honoring my warranty. Any probs, I will report 'em here quick. Does anyone have the skinny on the fastest, easiest way to R&R this thing? I am looking at almost no clearance to work--should I drop the radiator or fan? try to go in from underneath with the skid plate off? Or try to work in from the wheelwell with the tire out? Replies directly to my e-mail would be best, as I am getting greasy this afternoon and leaving for a 350 mile drive I cannot postpone early tomorrow morning . . . I hope 2eyefishclaw sees this . . .

email address?

Think the easiest way is the pull the tire and pull the plastic mud guard thing.

work from the wheel well.

Thanks, Amigo--didn't realize you were the moderator. Congratulations and thank you for taking on the burden. I consult these forums very regularly for this quirky little car, just never needed to psot before. i thought my personal e-mail would be available on a PM response?

I think I got my alternator from NAPA or Strauss Auto...that was a couple of months ago, so far no problems...seems like a crap shoot these things are...

I got the thing in, found it's easiest to come straight up the top, after pulling back the radiator hose (enging to radiator) and taking off the top half of the fan shroud. Fan's really in the way, too, but didn't want to take it off. Put a new belt in, and had a real hard time with that--I am thinking my tensioner is shot. I always use a cheater bar for this type of thing, but I almost bent my ratchet to give me enough room to slip the belt over the last pulley. The alternator doesn't seem adjustable, did I miss something or is this a bad, bad sign from the tensioner . . . ? Truck started right up and no sign of battery/brake lights with headlights, rear defogger, AC and CD player going strong.

I always unbolt them from up top flip it around disconnect wiring and pull it up and out without removing anything else takes 5 minutes

any tips on the +98 rodeo's?

The alternator from NAPA came with a test sheet from the remanufacturer with all the specs, max voltage etc. I am a little more comfortable with that, as it would seem to rule out a shady remanufacturer just throwing things in the good/no good pile without actually breaking them down and rebuilding. Constant voltage was listed as 14.6 with max/cutout at 14.9. Drove almost 1000 miles back and forth to Phoenix this weekend and not a blip--green board all across. Did just exactly what 2eye said, unbolt, flip and disconnect, and reverse to install, only I had to learn it the hard way . . . I think I'd recommend pulling both wires, cleaning up the connections and pulling the alternator ground and cleaing it up before replacing the alternator. That could have been my problem, but I will never know since I replaced the part first.