i got a 95 GSR and im about to turbo it. Heres what i want to know. I heard from a guy that you can lower the compression to 9.5:1 and u can use boost and vtec?! Hmm sounds fishy to me. Anyone know if this actually works, and if it even lasts on the engine? Also what turbo kit is a good tubo kit i want something that will put me in the 240 Horsepower range. What internals do you guys recommend and how much should i lower the compression to? My final question can you supercharge the gsr aswell as raise the compression to atleast 11:1? Im looking to run low 12s What would be the best way? Sorry for the ignorance but this is my first honda. I had an Rx7 before this. Thanks for all the help

well GSR comes stock with 10:1 compression ratio.. which you can drop it down a bit with a thicker head gasket, and reduce it even more with lower comprtession pistons.. DO NOT stack head gaskets to reduce compression... buy a gasket that will handle the boost you plan to run.. I also recommend putting in some ARP bolts on the head while you're in there. but the best way to lower compression is to get lower compression pistons.. and you might as well build the bottom end a bit, and get some extra insurance that your motor won't throw a stock rod. as for how low you should push the compression ratio.. it all depends on the boost level you choose, and if you are running N/A or turbo.. Turbos perform well on low compression and high boost on pump gas... if you want high compression you will have to tune for race fuel
(100+ octane).. racing gas gets expensive. as far as between a turbo and a supercharger... I believe a turbo would be your best bet for lower times and more power at top end. running a compression ratio of around 7-8:1 and running 8-15 psi boost (depending on bottom engine build) you can easily get some decent numbers. it all depends on how built your engine is.. crankshaft knife edged, blueprinted, and balanced, forged pistons, and rods, valvetrain upgrade (springs,a nd retainers), and a sleeved block are among the top on the list.. but the list goes on and on.. down to more agressive cams, port and polish for turbo application, definitly a fuel management system to handle the fuel needs.. if you are wanting a truely built motor I suggest going to a engine tuner and ask them what works for your area (parts and tuning).. what it's going to cost to build what you want..

for 240HP I would recommend the greddy, or revhard turbokits on www.turbokits.com it's all in how much you want to spend on the kit, and how much power you want to put down.. also an awesome upgrade to your tranny to get all that power to the ground is a LSD. but look for kits that come with the electronics such as the Apexi VAFC, and greddy e-manage, and other boost timers. and included injectors. best bet is to get a kit without injectors and buy 4 400-500cc injectors yourself..

what exactly is sleeving the block isnt that expensive?

running a compression ratio of around 7-8:1 and running 8-15 psi boost (depending on bottom engine build) you can easily get some decent numbers.

Are you fucking insane? I mean that as seriously as possible.
7:1 compression? You can't be serious. On 10:1 compression 15 pounds of boost on pump gas is very reasonable. On 9:1 compression 20+ is within reach. Don't forget this isn't a big block chevy with iron heads and a 4.5 inch bore, it's a small bore modern engine with a huge VE and massively efficient cylinder heads. You don't need super low compression to run good amounts of boost.

Sleeving the block is when you replace all or part of your stock cylinders with thicker, more performance built ones to take more power. Not really needed till past 400 WHP.

While I will agree that 7:1 is quite low I wouldn't really mess around in the 10:1 area at 15 PSI, at least not in a street car. The fact is that not all fuel is created equal. You might be pumping 91 octane, but that doesn't mean you won't get detonation. I have gotten slight detonation with my GTC on some 91 octane fuel. It runs an 8:1 compression ratio. Just think what would happen on a 10:1 if you decided to get on it. Chances are you would crack a piston or a ring. Perhaps if you have a weak bottom end you might even throw a rod through your block.

That is just something I wouldn't mess with unless you were using the car as a track only car and running 110+ octane race fuel.

Personally, on a street car I would keep the compression between 8:1 and 9:1. You can run more boost safely. Also, I would say it depends on the engine block when you should change your sleeves. For some engines it would be long before 400WHP.

i see. So far i ordered a fluidyne radiator and Fal electric fans cause i hear the cars run hot with turbo. Well ill probably sleeve the block and after reading up on turbos i decided on lowering it to 9:1. Im gonna build up the motor the right way cause i refuse to spend money on turbo to have things blow and break, or over heat.

I wouldn't lower it to 9:1 if you're going to sleeve it - you can easily tune out 9.5:1 with a fat snail on a GSR motor. You'll also have a lot better driveability (not having to floor it to go) on the street, almost like stock. If you're going to do it all and do it right, you'll be spending a lot of money - the end product will be a monster that just begs for more. Check out my friends website: http://civic.ibadesigns.com. The info is a little outdated, as we pulled the motor out and had it sleeved by AEBS with custom Ross 9.5:1 pistions and Pauter rods. At 20psi on 550cc injectors (95%+ duty cycle) it made 390whp and 302tq. With larger injectors and a lower fuel pressure level, it would bust 400whp with no problem.

damn thats nice

search

My friend and i are installing an 8psi jackson racing sc on my gsr in about a week. I've been really scared of detonation issues and the only things im doing to avoid it are colder plugs, a colder thermostat, a boost timing controller, and to always run 93 octane. Would it be worth it to install a thicker head gasket, and also what exactly is a fat snail?

My friend and i are installing an 8psi jackson racing sc on my gsr in about a week. I've been really scared of detonation issues and the only things im doing to avoid it are colder plugs, a colder thermostat, a boost timing controller, and to always run 93 octane. Would it be worth it to install a thicker head gasket, and also what exactly is a fat snail?
Good luck with the JRSC - I hope you're happy with it! A "fat snail" is a big turbo.

yeah good luck,watch out for the stock oil pump to fail on you!

My friend and i are installing an 8psi jackson racing sc on my gsr in about a week. I've been really scared of detonation issues and the only things im doing to avoid it are colder plugs, a colder thermostat, a boost timing controller, and to always run 93 octane. Would it be worth it to install a thicker head gasket, and also what exactly is a fat snail?

I ran 9.5 psi with my jrsc on JR band aids for a little over a year and a half. no water injection and just the JR FMU on 91, ngk cold plugs gapped at .038. no problems here, but, i never really needed going past 6psi, so i never abused it (i still dont abuse it even with the hondata................four years of jrsc boost, and still running good) the jrsc gave out before the motor, rebuild and it was brand new again. if you plan on beating it every day on just a BTC and without water injection at least, you may have problems :evillol: As for changing the head gasket, your oem one will work just great. if your really paranoid with detonation and cant afford the hondata right away, go get one off ebay for $200. Water injection will take your detonation paranoia away.

My friend and i are installing an 8psi jackson racing sc on my gsr in about a week. I've been really scared of detonation issues and the only things im doing to avoid it are colder plugs, a colder thermostat, a boost timing controller, and to always run 93 octane. Would it be worth it to install a thicker head gasket, and also what exactly is a fat snail?


My bro had a '95 GSR and put a JRSC on it and he went through 3 ECU's. Spent more money on ECU's than anything else. So he just sold the car.


But I wanted it...! :banghead:

I wouldn't lower it to 9:1 if you're going to sleeve it - you can easily tune out 9.5:1 with a fat snail on a GSR motor. You'll also have a lot better driveability (not having to floor it to go) on the street, almost like stock. If you're going to do it all and do it right, you'll be spending a lot of money - the end product will be a monster that just begs for more. Check out my friends website: http://civic.ibadesigns.com. The info is a little outdated, as we pulled the motor out and had it sleeved by AEBS with custom Ross 9.5:1 pistions and Pauter rods. At 20psi on 550cc injectors (95%+ duty cycle) it made 390whp and 302tq. With larger injectors and a lower fuel pressure level, it would bust 400whp with no problem.

A full point in compression is worth a 3-4% drop off in power. Do you think you're going to notice a difference between a half point in compression on the street? NO!

You don't need to "floor it to go" on the street with low compression, you've been buying into the recent high compression hype. If a stock B16 with 110 ft-lbs of torque can drive from stoplight to stoplight and take me to the supermarket every day just fine, a GSR motor at 8:1 compression will make more low end torque than that. I'd rather have 40 WHP more on the top end with 9:1 or 8.5:1 compression instead of having 5 more horsepower at part throttle so I can gently take off from stoplights that much quicker :uhoh:

nobody has touched this point yet... do you raise compression or lower compression to make a supercharger work better/faster. I mean does it work hand in hand with the Vtec can you supercharge a gsr and still feel that umpf that vtec gives? Or does it not affect the car that much since its being overpowered by a supercharger? THanks!

you don't change compression ratio for a supercharger.. you change the compressor pulley to a smaller pulley for more revs/min on the supercharger turbines.. thus creating more boost.. reducing the compression ratio reduces the risk of detonation.. and sorry I was incorrect about the 7:1 CR I meant to type 8-9.5:1 CR was up really late the night before I wrote that. anyways lowering the compression ratio, and running higher octane fuel is to ensure you don't have detonation or pinging.. water injection is an excellent way to avoid detonation on moderate levels of boost. both need to be tuned for the water injection, and the fuel management. inject too much water, and you lose power.. inject too little, and you risk detonation.. works on the same principle as a nitrous system 125PSI nozzle sprays a fog/mist into the intake other than the water adheres to the insides of the cylinder cooling the cylinder reducing risk of detonation as the cylinder goes into compression stroke. water injection does not add power to your vehicle like nitrous it is not introducing any O2 to the fuel/air mix. the water injection reduces the risk of detonation only, and lowers engine temps a bit as well.

A full point in compression is worth a 3-4% drop off in power. Do you think you're going to notice a difference between a half point in compression on the street? NO!
Weren't we saying how you were an asshole earlier? Yeah, you have no fucking tact.

You don't need to "floor it to go" on the street with low compression, you've been buying into the recent high compression hype.
Is there a "hype"? You seem to be the master on the local consensus about imports, so there must be. My car is at 8.1:1 compression, so I believe I have a little more influence about low compression than you do. I also have PERSONAL experience about compression differences, unlike yourself who bases their data on others from Honda-Tech.

My bro had a '95 GSR and put a JRSC on it and he went through 3 ECU's. Spent more money on ECU's than anything else. So he just sold the car.

What problems was he experiencing that he could not find an ECU to fix?

he sold the car because he went through 3 p72s?

what exactly is sleeving the block isnt that expensive?

Sleeving the block is putting a new cylinder wall in. There are three types of sleeves, dry sleeves, flanged sleeves and wet sleeves.

Dry sleeves are pressed in place into the old cylinder after the old cylinder is bored out. They are pressed in and can't be removed since they are an interferance fit...same size as the cylinder, but they freeze the sleeves and press them into the block. Then when the sleeve expands, it can't move.

Flanged sleeves fit in the same way as dry sleeves, but they have a groove on them so they not only fit tightly, but since the groove is there, there is less of a chance it is going to slip out. Flanged sleeves are for cylinders that are in worse shape than a cylinder needing a dry sleeve.

Wet sleeves get their name because they sit in the coolant. They are interferance fits with grooves on either end. The grooves work two ways, they stop the sleeve from moving, and they prevent coolant from escaping. This type of repair is usually found on expensive engines or hard to find engines (Model T). It is also used on engines that have a piston go through the cylinder wall or for some reason have a hole in the cylinder wall. The entire cylinder is removed before a wet sleeve is inserted. Then the wet sleeve is fit in place. A wet sleeve is much thicker than the OEM cylinder wall. The other benefit of using wet sleeves is that they are removeable if they become damaged. They can be taken out and a new sleeve inserted. Dry and flanged sleeves need to be bored out and have a new one pressed in.

As for being expensive, i guess i don't really know.

For your engine, i would just build up the bottom end and call it good. If you plan on running more boost than what you do now, i would rebuild the bottom end and the valve train. I would also have the bottom end of the engine blue printed and balanced. It is kind of like getting insurance on the new parts you put in by having them doublechecked and balanced properly. Having this done should also allow you to rev higher and do it safer.

ah... i see the light now.. I understand now. I am one with my B18. Lol sorry im bored.. its sunday. thanks for the help.