97 Blazer - strange electrical behaviors

I have just been reading this forum and think I am on the way to solving the strange electrical problems I'm having. This all sounds like the IGNITION SWITCH issues surrounding the 97 Blazer.

Key will not turn back far enough to remove it. Must wait for a click under the dash.

Engine dies while driving down the road - it comes back on for now!

Heater motor switch sometimes just clicks when you try to turn it on. Sometimes justs works fine.

To start the vehicle you have to turn the ignition on - let it set for about 5 seconds and then it will start.

I understand that by cleaning the "black box" I can get this working until my mechanic can replace the switch. Where is the box and is a difficult thing to do?

yes it sounds like the ignition switch. I suggest getting a new one because i cleaned mine and it worked fine for a year but went bad again. However I understand you are needing your blazer. I will get the info you need and post it later

Ok here is a post from another user for the replacement procedure. This isn't really hard but you must have some patience I will add some personal notes in Red Good Luck


Sfrid073 []
AF Newbie
Joined: Jun 2004
09-16-2004, 11:58 AM Ignition Switch replacement procedure (Post #1)
This was originally posted by CCCD. Just some minor tweaks to the procedure by me. Hope this helps some of you. This is applies to a 1997 Blazer LT AWD.

First make sure the key is in the “OFF” position. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, and disable the air bag. Do this by removing the air bag fuse and disconnecting the yellow connector at the base of the steering column. Remember to disconnect the negative battery terminal first.

Next remove all the access panels and assess the situation. First remove the lower panel, 7mm Hex fasteners, then loosen the upper panel with 7mm Hex fasteners and torque drive (T25 size).

Now remove the lower steering wheel column cover. It has two T25 torque fasteners that are accessed from the underside. Note the two hooks on the rear of the cover. Now remove the top steering wheel cover. Two E6 series Torx fasteners (I read a std ¼ drive 3/32socket, might work, but I think using the right tools is better) are visible (see explanation below). Note the one on the driver’s side wont fall out after you loosen it, it has a lock nut to keep from falling out.
I read that you don’t need to remove the top cover, but I found it much easier with it removed. I used a Dremel tool to cut a slit just under the key cylinder (A razor knife will work fine too). Now GENTLY spread the plastic enough to come around the approx. 0.75” Dia. key housing. It’s easier with the tilt down all the way. The rubber cover on the lower cover will hide the cut.

Next remove the small white connector from the top of the metal, key “tumbler”. Rotate the switch towards the passenger seat to remove. This gets the small wires out of the way so you can get to the upper left fastener.

Now you’re ready to remove the switch. Reverse Torx fasteners hold the switch in. These are the same kind of fasteners as earlier. They require an “E” series socket. Basically the fastener looks just like the business end of a torque screwdriver. It is an E3, or E4 socket. I found an E4 at Sears Hardware (I used a flat head screwdriver and turned the grooves on the side of the torx screw and a pair of needle nose pliers but if you can get the E3 or E4 socket it is easier but make sure they are deep well). It fit a bit loose but it worked. With some down pressure and slight side pressure they were removed. BE CAREFULL!!! Note the white plastic parts toward the front of the car. For the lower right fastener the white part goes on the outside of the black plastic switch, when things go back together.

This is as far as you need to go if you are goin to try and clean the contacts. If you are repalcing the switch then skip this section.
Be sure the battery is disconnected before going further. On one side of the "box" you will see a group of wires with the metal leads going into the box. on the reverse side is a thin cover. Remove the thin cover but be careful not to lose the springs. next remove the ring around the circle part of the box. now pry the box apart there will be 6 to 8 L shaped metal strips inspect each of them for a black spot. Clean the black off with either sandpaper or a pencil eraser(it does work). be carefull to put each metal strip back wher it goes. The tricky part of this is getting the spring back around the turning part of the switch and putting it back together in reverse order. You may have to use a screwdriver to turn the switch part to get the black cover down in place If so then apply pressure down on the screwdriver. before connecting everything back. connect the battery and turn the switch with the screwdriver to see if you get power and if it will crank. If so put everything back together and oyur good to go.

To replace switch continue here.
Now go back underneath and remove the harness at the main block. Use a 9/32 socket to loosen center fastener (mine was red). There are basically three harnesses in one. The two outside ones are for the turn signals. Remember orientation of the harness block, relieves worry when you go back to install the new harness. These two out side harnesses come out from the bottom/back side of the ignition switch harness. Once loose, cut the zip ties and remove the switch.

Now just put everything back in reverse order. Connected the battery and test the switch before reassembling everything. When the air bag is disabled the air bag light will stay on.

I didn't have this resource when mine went bad the first time so it took me 2 weeks to figure out the problem. I hope you have better luck and by the way save your self some money and replace the switch yourself. its actually easier then cleaning it and cheaper then paying some one.

Having done this three times now, it is a fairly simple procedure and I agree you should replace the harness and do it yourself. Please post back if replacing the harness fixed the problem as I am still suffering these same symptoms after replacing the harness.

I was having a similar problem. My key wouldnt come out of the ignition and i could not get the vehicle out of Park. I took the whole bottom part of the dash apart. Then I started looking elseware. Turned out it was a plug unplugged under the dash near the gas pedal. I plugged it in and everything was great.