Greetings,

Does anybody else wonder how come various sized engines for newer Chevy 1500 series trucks get about the same mileages?

You'd think a 6 cylinder would be much better.

You'd think a small V8 would get better than a larger V8.

You'd think a Colorado should be much better - but it isn't.

Often Rear Wheel Drive isn't much different than 4 x 4.

Auto versus 5 speed?

So maybe there are things to be done to improve the mileage levels without hurting performance.

Now I've heard many say - "I get whatever I get - thats just life, I'm not going to count nickels". Well sure, thats true - but at the same time - with $2.00 a gallon gas - $45.00 at the gas station comes too often for most of us. So what is wrong with trying to make it a little longer between fillups or a little cheaper at each one. I still want a full sized half ton truck, a Colorado just won't do.

I'll tell you mine - you tell me yours :-)

I have a 1500 series 2004 V8 Vortec 6000 high output (SS type of engine). Extended cab, automatic transmission - its REAR Wheel drive - so I know - it helps a bit compared to 4 x 4 (about 400 pounds lighter plus less mechanicals).

Highway, I'm getting 20.5 mpg but I think with another 5,000 miles added it'll be better (currently 3300 miles). Some say thats good mileage - but why shouldn't it be better with more ideas?

I use premium gas because of my higher stock compression ratio of 9.8 to 1 on the high output Vortex 6000 (versus the standard Vortex 6000 on the 2500 series).

1. I used Slick 50 (added at 1,000 miles). I figure anything that helps improve lubrication doesn't hurt me :-) (have used Slick 50 for many years in cars, trucks, and motorcycles.) Is there a better product?

2. Axle ratio is a key. I wanted my power band in the comfortable 1500 range - so I got a 3.73 axle ratio. 55 mph is 1400/1500 rpm.

3. Proper tire pressure and a hard folding tonneau cover to help air flow.

4. At break-in, I changed oil at 750 miles and again at 2500 - just to clear any new break in particles out of the system. Now I'll go to every 2500 miles changing and using Purolator oil filters (no Fram oil filters or Fram produced oil filters).

Possible upcoming efforts will be a Fram Air Hog permanent air filter and maybe some other suggestions.

Failed efforts? I tried the Tornado. Interesting concept - but actually reduced my MPG instead of improving it. Who knows - maybe the Vortec engines have it already designed in as stock :-)

Would love to hear other suggestions - as long as it doesn't mean hurting normal stock performance.

White Lightening

I have a 99 4x4 with the 4.8 vortec v-8, last time I checked it I was getting close to 17.5 hwy. Since then I've put on a solid hard tonau cover. Haven't really took it on a long hwy. trip to see what I get now.

I have a 2wd, 5.3 v8 with the mods listed in my sig below. I'm using Castrol Syntec 10w-30 and wix filter with a 4-4500 mile change interval. I'm averging 16-17 mpg.

I got a 1500 2wd, 5.7L auto 3.73 gears.It gets around 22-23mpg highway and around 17-19mpg city/combined. Friend of mine has same truck with 5.0L and gets a solid 27mpg highway. Maybe something said for the older smaller engines

Greetings,

Does anybody else wonder how come various sized engines for newer Chevy 1500 series trucks get about the same mileages?

You'd think a 6 cylinder would be much better.

You'd think a small V8 would get better than a larger V8.

You'd think a Colorado should be much better - but it isn't.

Often Rear Wheel Drive isn't much different than 4 x 4.

Auto versus 5 speed?

So maybe there are things to be done to improve the mileage levels without hurting performance.

Now I've heard many say - "I get whatever I get - thats just life, I'm not going to count nickels". Well sure, thats true - but at the same time - with $2.00 a gallon gas - $45.00 at the gas station comes too often for most of us. So what is wrong with trying to make it a little longer between fillups or a little cheaper at each one. I still want a full sized half ton truck, a Colorado just won't do.

I'll tell you mine - you tell me yours :-)

I have a 1500 series 2004 V8 Vortec 6000 high output (SS type of engine). Extended cab, automatic transmission - its REAR Wheel drive - so I know - it helps a bit compared to 4 x 4 (about 400 pounds lighter plus less mechanicals).

Highway, I'm getting 20.5 mpg but I think with another 5,000 miles added it'll be better (currently 3300 miles). Some say thats good mileage - but why shouldn't it be better with more ideas?

I use premium gas because of my higher stock compression ratio of 9.8 to 1 on the high output Vortex 6000 (versus the standard Vortex 6000 on the 2500 series).

1. I used Slick 50 (added at 1,000 miles). I figure anything that helps improve lubrication doesn't hurt me :-) (have used Slick 50 for many years in cars, trucks, and motorcycles.) Is there a better product?

2. Axle ratio is a key. I wanted my power band in the comfortable 1500 range - so I got a 3.73 axle ratio. 55 mph is 1400/1500 rpm.

3. Proper tire pressure and a hard folding tonneau cover to help air flow.

4. At break-in, I changed oil at 750 miles and again at 2500 - just to clear any new break in particles out of the system. Now I'll go to every 2500 miles changing and using Purolator oil filters (no Fram oil filters or Fram produced oil filters).

Possible upcoming efforts will be a Fram Air Hog permanent air filter and maybe some other suggestions.

Failed efforts? I tried the Tornado. Interesting concept - but actually reduced my MPG instead of improving it. Who knows - maybe the Vortec engines have it already designed in as stock :-)

Would love to hear other suggestions - as long as it doesn't mean hurting normal stock performance.

White Lightening

i am getting about 19.5 but thats not staight high way miles thats a little city too though about 75 % of my daily driving is highway so i am pretty happy with what i get. i have an 02 Z71 ext. cab with the 5.3L and 3:73 gears and auto tranny. all i have done to my truck as of now is remove the screen in front of the MAF sensor. and modified my air box and duct to the intake. no seat of the pants increase in power but mileage was a little improved as well as throttle response.i think the biggest factor on mileage is driving style. jack rabbit take offs from red lights really suck the fuel. i know i used to take off like in a race and stop last minute...change my driving habits and gas (and brake pads too) last a bit longer now.

I have an '03 5.3L extended cab stock except I have put a K&N FIPK II and a hard tonneau cover. I get 14.5 mpg in the city and close to 20 on the highway.
It may surprise you to know this, but my brother has an '03 extended cab 4.3L 6 cylinder, and he gets almost identical mileage to me, if not worse. I know driving style may account for this, but it makes sense to me that the 6 cylinder has to work harder to move around a truck of approximately the same size and mass.
What do you all think?

i agree. I had a '78 firebird with 400 bigblock and it was the best vehicle I've had for mileage, 21 +/-. The only other vehicle that came close was my '91 ranger with the 4.3l v6. 20-21 mpg.

I have a 2004 silverado. I thought the bigger V8's 5.3 and 6.0 have a cylinder displacment feature that turns off 2-4 cylinders when the engine is at cruising speed. that could explain why the smaller V8's get the same gas mileage as the bigger ones.

I have an 04 ext cab silverado with the small v8. on the road, I will range from 22 mpg to 24.5 mpg depending on the speed I'm driving and the road I'm on. The 24.5 is at about 65 mph on the interstate and the 22 is at about 75 on the interstate. I had a 99 grand marquis with a v8 and I got 27 on the road at 75 mph

I'm just a bit amazed at some of the comments. It appears Chevy Truck mileages aren't too bad compared to some other truck lines. I had expected the range to be slanted more to the 13-14 mpg range for highway because most trucks (at least in Western WI) are all 4x4.

Also - in my 3500 miles of driving mine - I find that my optimum speed range was around 50 to 62 mph. When my speed is 65 to 70, my mileage seems to drop about 8% to 10%. Again - I attribute that to my axle ratio and engine combination (where the torque and power bands are). I have a 6 liter high output engine with a 3.73 axle ratio - I just wonder why the SS has the same engine with a 4.10 ratio. I was told it was so it would be good as a "stoplight" takeoff benefit - but it seems it would penalize the mileage and power band curve greatly (be like a tractor - all low end "granny gear" type).

I don't understand why full size Chevy 1500 series trucks with V8s should be getting similar mileages as Colorados and Rangers and Dakotas (in fact - Dakotas and Durangos seem to get 16, 17 range).

Would love to know how someone gets 22 to 25 in a small V8. My driving style is good for getting decent mileage - I just like the idea of tweeking it up a few notches in mpg. don't know about anybody else - but I got alot of "why would you get a full size truck, they are such gas hogs?" type comments when I bought - yet my highway mileage as a rwd truck is the same as my Explorer AWD was (20.5). Very much liked the Explorer - but love my Chevy Truck.

White Lightening

The average for the last 10 fuel ups is 14 mpg that is city/hwy. My highest single fuel mileage was 19 mpg ciyt/hwy. Not too bad considering the 33" tall tires and a heavy size 13 :biggrin:

Here is a article that was e-mailed to me:


the last several weeks many of you have emailed me about techniques
and tips to improve gas mileage. Let's make that this week's topic.

Today's cars and trucks are designed to run with the best mileage, power
and emissions possible, and they do a great job of it. So what can you
do to save at the pumps in your vehicle? Here are some tips.

Buy cheap. Don't pay for "premium" unless your manual recommends it.
Unless you're driving a Corvette or turbo-charged car, the odds that you
need premium are slim-to-none. There's no upside to using higher octane
fuel than necessary. Some name-brand fuels may have better additive
packages than no-name fuels. I don't have any hard evidence one way or
another that it would affect mileage or maintenance, but it is worth
noting.

Check your tires. Both for safety and economy. Keep a tire gauge in your
car and check your tires every time you fill your tank. Use the pressure
recommended for your car (look in the door jamb or under the truck lid
for the manufacturer's recommendations).

Put your car on a diet. Don't keep extra weight in your vehicle.

Keep in tune. Keep up with the recommended replacement schedule for
ignition components such as spark plugs. Keep a clean air filter. Be
sure your fuel injectors are clean (an occasional bottle of injector
cleaner additive isn't a bad idea). Use AutoTap or another scantool to
be sure that you're not having problems with misfire.

Don't use the brakes! Don't take this one too literally, but there is
nothing you can do that hurts your mileage more than pushing the brake
pedal. Every time you push the accelerator you've made an investment in
your car's momentum. Every time you brake you throw that energy away.
(This and the next tip are worth 10 times all the rest!)

Watch your top speed. At highway speeds, small increases in speed
require much larger increases in power. Slowing down a few mph on the
highway will save you dollars. If you own AutoTap, try monitoring the
"Percent Load" parameter at a couple different speeds on a flat highway
and you'll see what I mean!

What about all the fuel-saving devices that are marketed so aggressively
today? Total waste of money on fuel injected cars and trucks. That
certainly doesn't prevent them from selling huge quantities of these
high profit-margin products. But, don't mistake profitability and
celebrity endorsements for science! The fact that we'd all like to
believe that they work doesn't change the rules of physics.

So how do they get away with their outrageous claims and "proven"
results? One answer is the use of weasel-words. Remember "Up to 10%
Savings" includes the number zero!

Another answer can be revealed with AutoTap. Some of these devices add
an airflow obstruction in the intake. While I haven't tested any of
these devices, I have seen test results on another engine modification
that performs a similar function. The results? The intake air becomes
turbulent as it passes through the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. When the
air flow is turbulent the sensor gets confused. On some vehicles, this
causes the engine to run temporarily lean. This could improve mileage
(at the expense of emissions, durability or power). However, if you
remember our previous emails about oxygen sensors, you'll recall that
these sensors will detect the lean condition, then "learn" how to
correct it. What does this mean in real life? For a short time, there
could be a small improvement (and this would be a good time to make
measurements for advertising claims!). But, give it a week or two and
the computer will tune the fuel mixture back to where it belongs, and
any gains will disappear. Monitoring the long term fuel trim parameters
with AutoTap reveals this behavior.

So don't help fuel that snake-oil industry. Use some of the practical
tips in this week's email to improve your economy. Will you see huge
improvements? Not likely. But small improvements can add up!

Happy Repairs,

Mike Fahrion
www.autotap.com <http://www.autotap.com

There are a few things you can do to save a few ounces of fuel here and there, but the bottom line is that it takes x amount of energy to provide y amount of momentum to a vehicle. That's why the V6 isn't a whole lot better than the V8s - it simply takes a certain amount of energy to move a vehicle. The only way to get big savings is to get a smaller car!

I just filled up 2 hours ago. I got 15.5 mpg. Not too bad considering I hardley drive under 70. That included a few times turing around last night in the road (cops aint got nuthin on me!!) I gotta buy 93 octane though, b/c of my tune. It's worth every penny though. Fill up cost me about $40 - $46 .

97 K2500 454 ext cab long box (8600GVWR) 13-16mpg 7000lbs+ (yes, with topper bed mat, and 280lbs of sand in the back for winter it tipped the scale at over 7000lbs).
03 K1500HD Crew cab short box with 6.0L 13-16mpg weight unknown.
Winter gas here in Minnesota does decrease mileage.

There are a few things you can do to save a few ounces of fuel here and there, but the bottom line is that it takes x amount of energy to provide y amount of momentum to a vehicle. That's why the V6 isn't a whole lot better than the V8s - it simply takes a certain amount of energy to move a vehicle. The only way to get big savings is to get a smaller car!

Greetings Ape0r,

I'm not sure I agree. Although there are physical restraints of course, it seems different manufacturers seem to get different results in about the same vehicle sizes.

Lets take as an example comparing the extended cab Dodge Dakota with the V8 Magnum engine and RWD, with the Toyota Tundra ext. cab with V8 and RWD and the Chevy Silverado V8 5.3 liter engine with RWD. Physically the Chevy is considerablly a larger vehicle in size and weight than the other 2 - not to mention the engine is a larger displacement and higher torque. Yet all three will get about the same mileage with the same driver. I think that means physical is less important than design and engineering. Then the next step after that is a combination of the driver and any driver enhanced activities (add-ons, gas selections etc.).

Personally - I think there are reasons why some get better mileage than others beyond just driving styles. Choice of tires, tire inflations, additives etc. all can play a part. While your post mentions "a few ounces here and there" - I see a considerable variation in poll responses - which indicates much more than just a few ounces here and there.

One of the reasons why I'm interested in this topic is not just saving money, but fuel savings is generally an indication of operating efficiency of the vehicle. If performance doesn't decline and ways are found to improve mileage - it is likely the vehicle is running more efficiently and with more longevity of its parts and components.

White Lightening

Ok, im sure this is simple, and I think someone has told me how to before... But what do I do to find out what my MPG is? Im guessing thiers a certan equasion i have to go with?

When you fill up next, reset your trip meter to '000' or write down your miles. Then next time you fillup take the miles you've driven divided by the gallons you put in. (example) 200mi / 10gal = 20 mpg.

remember, you have to start with a full tank and fill up to figure mileage. cant just put in $10 here and $8 there.

Ok, im sure this is simple, and I think someone has told me how to before... But what do I do to find out what my MPG is? Im guessing thiers a certan equasion i have to go with?

Greetings Nigel,

Well of course Jeep's answer is quite accurate. For many newer Silverado drivers however - its much easier. We have the Driver information system that comes standard on many 2003 and 2004 Chevy Silverados. If you have it - its right on the dash under the speedometer and tachonmeter. It automatically calculates your average mileage from whenever you reset it (not to maneiton a pile of other features). It isn't on the "work truck" model - but it is on most other models of those years and beyond.

White Lightening

I am sorry here but, who cares what gas mileage you get.

When you buy a truck you do not buy a truck based on gas mileage.

If you are worried about gas mileage go buy a scotter.

You suppose to buy a truck because you need to care heavy/big things from point a to point b.


The mileage on the car tag is always 10-12 % overstated. Why: they set up those numbers based on the vehcile driving on rollers.

Yea, I dont have that thing. Is their any way to install one on an older model like mine? or is it not worth the trouble?

After reading these posts Im wishing I went with a bigger V8. The only reason I got the 4.8 is because I thought it would get better mpg. It seems that the 5.3 is getting just about the same mpg.

Dang, I'm getting 12 highway and i drive like grandmother, a younger grandmother on 8 cups of coffee but a grandmother nonetheless. I reckon it might be time for a tune up...not that the service engine light wasn't a giveaway or anything.

I'd give my left nut to get 16 mpg again.

poor guys, im getting 26+ mpg on highway. i have a 2002 2500HD Crew Cab 4x4









oh yeah, i have the Duramax, Hypertech PP3, FIPK2

you rat bastard!
I dident do the math yet, but i know im not doin that good in my 1500 2wd. Plus.... most of my driving is in the city, so i donno how i would get an accurate highway reading. When I am on the highway, its usually no further than 10 miles or so.

poor guys, im getting 26+ mpg on highway. i have a 2002 2500HD Crew Cab 4x4

oh yeah, i have the Duramax, Hypertech PP3, FIPK2

Greetings Limited,

Well thats what diesels do - they get good mileage, last a long time, and have high torque but cost considerablly more to own to start with.

I run premium in my high output V8 6000, strangely diesel fuel is more expensive than my premium here in WI.

P.S. Wish I could get 26 in my gas - but it isn't too likely LOL.

White Lightening

Dang, I'm getting 12 highway and i drive like grandmother, a younger grandmother on 8 cups of coffee but a grandmother nonetheless. I reckon it might be time for a tune up...not that the service engine light wasn't a giveaway or anything.

I'd give my left nut to get 16 mpg again.

Greetings Grimace,

Just a couple suggestions from my feeble tech knowledge.
1. Think air filter - change it - likely starving that poor thing.
2. Put a quality fuel injector cleaner in it (something that is sold in an aluminum container LOL - like Slick 50 brand Injector cleaner etc.).
3. Gas quality - don't use ethanol - try a different gas brand/vendor.
4. Tire pressure? or Wheel Bearing drag?
5. Last tuneup?

If you drive like a grandmother - you may have cludged up the engine "a might bit" - if that is the case, number 2 above should help that. Also may want to look at wheel bearings etc. for lubrication/greasing needs if you suspect "drag".

Also you indicated "to get 16 again" which implies you used to get 16. If you used to get 16 - you should be able to again.

Just some ideas - hope they might help.

White Lightening

Yea, I dont have that thing. Is their any way to install one on an older model like mine? or is it not worth the trouble?

After reading these posts Im wishing I went with a bigger V8. The only reason I got the 4.8 is because I thought it would get better mpg. It seems that the 5.3 is getting just about the same mpg.

Greetings Nigel,

When I was looking at trucks this spring and summer - I also thought the same. In fact my original thought was the 4.2 V6 Ford F150. Pretty funny that in the end I come up with a Chevy 1500 with high output Vortec 6000 V8, yet get the same highway gas mileage. Ford's 4.6 V8 and 5.4 V8 each share about the same EPA mileages even though they are different sizes and horsepower too. Turns out the 5.4 F150 in 2004 was improved while the 4.6 stayed the same.

the point in starting the thread wasn't for someone to feel better or worse than someone else - but rather - so that owners could get an idea what is real world levels - AND - how they might improve what they are driving.

Cheers - you've got a good engine.

White Lightening

I am sorry here but, who cares what gas mileage you get.
When you buy a truck you do not buy a truck based on gas mileage.
If you are worried about gas mileage go buy a scotter.
You suppose to buy a truck because you need to care heavy/big things from point a to point b.
The mileage on the car tag is always 10-12 % overstated. Why: they set up those numbers based on the vehcile driving on rollers.

Greetings Gschretter,

But I disagree with your viewpoint in several ways. People by trucks for many reasons today - and only one of them is carrying big items. Regardless of what size truck or what sized engine - all vehicles are machines - and when properly run - they can be maximized for performance, efficiency, and durability.

I change my oil often - not only because it helps gas mileage - but also because it helps increase the lifetime use of the vehicle - as well as maximizing performance (less pollutants means less wear means more performance). I use decent gas for the same reason.

Getting "the most" from your vehicle - for some - means engine modifications and expensive alterations to the vehicle. For others like myself - I find it a challenge and a benefit to outperform manufacturers estimates and to get better efficiency and performance from my vehicles. I don't think it is more "manly" to suffer 14 mpg when the exact same vehcile with better care and attention could get 18 instead. I don't believe in "babying" a vehicle - but at the same time - there's something about knowing you're doing "the best you can" to get out whatever the vehicle has to offer.

I didn't buy a Vortec 6000 high output 1500 to get scooter mileage - but I do expect that I should put my best effort into getting as many of those 345 ponies to run with the most efficiency and longevity as I can figure out (without modifications). After all - someday - I'll sell this vehicle - and if I did right by it in maintenance and efforts - it will reward me with a better resale value too. And in the meantime - attention to the trucks needs and efficiencies keeps all 345 ponies running instead of trotting LOL.

Not a racer or stop light junkie - I like durability, power when I need it, and longevity with maximized efficiency.

White Lightening

i got 22mpg from here in oklahoma all the way to mississippi in my old truck
2000 Silverado 2500 Heavy Duty (Not HD, Long Story) 6.0 reg cab long bed 2wd. i Had K&N FIPK2 Hypertech PP3 manifold back dual 3" with x-pipe dual flows dumped in front of axel and a custom burnt chip from my local speed shop. he asked what my priority was and i said gas mileage, $140 and one week later free install. i also had a soft snap bed cover. 15.92 was my best e.t after everything. it started at 17.10 at 82 mph stock.
i used premium on my trip and got 712 and 690 something miles to the tank both fillups were around 31 32 gallons

I can't believe that anyone still uses this snake oil; read for yourself >>>

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/07/slick.htm

I can't believe that anyone still uses this snake oil; read for yourself >>>

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/07/slick.htm

Greetings Edsbox,

Thanks for bringing up this link about Slick 50. I was very familiar with this article from July 1996. What's interesting to note - is that the Federal government did not end up levying a fine on Slick 50 as they said they might - nor did they force Slick 50 to do refunds nor did they require Slick 50 to alter their product. And Slick 50 did do additional tests that proved most of its claims were supported. In fact - the packaging and statements Slick 50 makes today is essentially the same as it was back in 1996 - except that they also offer a 50,000 mile warranty that didn't exist in 1996. In short, the FTC was wrong in a majority of their assessment of Slick 50.

Slick 50 may or may not be everyone's choice - we all decide for ourselves yet from personal use - I've seen considerable benefits from it. Specifically for my wife - who checks her car's oil levels far too infrequently. Her previous car was saved on more than one occasion - by the use of Slick 50. Even with 2.5 quarts of oil low - her vehicle did not overheat - well worth the investment in Slick 50. I prefer Slick 50 with normal Havoline oil and a good Purolator oil filter over synthetic oils and synthetic filters at this point.

I know there are also other products similar of which I don't know their result - Prolong, DuraLube, and others. Maybe other readers can comment on those products if they have any experience.

I also don't have the same view as the article you linked to - that oil changes at recommended manufacturer levels are okey-dokey. If I have a new vehicle (truck, car, or motorcycle) - the first oil change is ALWAYS done at 750 to 1,000 miles. Chevy says first and every one at 3,000. When I changed my oil at 985 miles - it was visually obvious that it was a very good idea that I didn't wait an additional 2,000 miles. That is just how new engines are - manufacturing impurities, and initial wear/fit metal dust is natural in any and all engines.

Anybody have experience with Prolong or Duralube or other brand engine oil treatments (gas treatments is a whole different story)?

White Lightening

the gas you get is realy bad these days. its like you onley are get fumes when you fill up. i have 2000 silverado and gas mileage stinks.

1997 Suburban 5.7 13mpg city

the gas you get is realy bad these days. its like you onley are get fumes when you fill up. i have 2000 silverado and gas mileage stinks.

57Chev,

Have you tried different gas stations? I have found if I use gas from certain chain gas stations, I get worst gas mileage in my truck.

I've put taller tires on my truck and noticed that my milage dropped by 5mpg, but yet the time between fill-ups has not decreased. I believe that the drop in milage was due to the speedo being off by about 7-8mph. Does this not also throw off the odo? The tire and wheel combination i used on my truck was actually lighter than my stock wheels and tires. I have 255/85R16 mud brutes on my truck. Anyone have a conversion chart so i can figure out how much my speedo and odo is off?

I've put taller tires on my truck and noticed that my milage dropped by 5mpg, but yet the time between fill-ups has not decreased. I believe that the drop in milage was due to the speedo being off by about 7-8mph. Does this not also throw off the odo? The tire and wheel combination i used on my truck was actually lighter than my stock wheels and tires. I have 255/85R16 mud brutes on my truck. Anyone have a conversion chart so i can figure out how much my speedo and odo is off?

Greetings Jake,

Its all about the circumference of your tires. Many drivers incorrectly believe that size of wheels and tires is the measurement - it is not. My 20" wheels and tires may have a larger or smaller circumference than your 16s. Circumference is the number of inches/feet travelled in one full revolution of the tire. Lets use a quick example. If your speedo was correct with your old tires/wheels and they were 5 feet of travel for one revolution and your new tires are 5 feet 6 inches - that means they are 10% larger (5.5 feet/5 feet = 1.10 or 110%). So if your mileage is now 15 mpg - you are actually getting 16.5 (15 x 1.1 = 16.5).

Myself - I'd get your speedo/computer reset - you're also going 10% faster than the speedo says you are and that could mean tickets.

How to measure the circumference you ask? Tape measure around the outside of the tire (not exact but real close).

White Lightening

I've put taller tires on my truck and noticed that my milage dropped by 5mpg, but yet the time between fill-ups has not decreased. I believe that the drop in milage was due to the speedo being off by about 7-8mph. Does this not also throw off the odo? The tire and wheel combination i used on my truck was actually lighter than my stock wheels and tires. I have 255/85R16 mud brutes on my truck. Anyone have a conversion chart so i can figure out how much my speedo and odo is off?


Try this link....all kinds of useful info... http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/brochure/info/tmpInfoTireMath.jsp

I have a '98 4.3L (V6) only gettin' 20mpg at best. My truck is very well maintained-oil changes every 3000, fuel filter every 6K to 9K, K&N gets cleaned @ same time, maintain 32 psi, good tread, aligned, wheel bearings inspected-repacked/replaced as needed about every 12K, touneau cover only varies milage about 2mpg (so 18mpg w/cover off). I too have noticed a difference with different gas stations so I personally use only Mobil/Exxon or Fina and ALWAYS use 89 octane (mid) since most engines are engineered to run off of 88 octane all though owners manuals will say ATLEAST 87 is ok. With all this said and done, I wish I had a 5.3L or an older 5.7L seeing as how gas milage is very nominal. Thankx eveyone for your input.

FP60 (aka Fuel Power) and LC20 are the 2 top cleaners on the market and if any additive is going to give better mpg it is these 2. www.lubecontrol.com

Read up at www.bobistheoilguy.com and don't put any of that other crap in your car.

Recently I was reading about Royal Purple after someone suggested I consider it for my truck use. I went their website and after reading it for quite awhile - it occurred to me - its sounds much like Slick 50 - except a synthetic base. I've used Slick 50 for years and great success. I don't believe there has been an oil additive more "examined" and tested by doubters than this product. On 2 occasions the government did testing after they claimed Slick 50 didn't work. After the testing in both cases - the government "quietly" recalled its claims of non-effectiveness.

Now Royal Purple seems to show on their website a similar bonding agent and durability benefit - exactly like Slick 50.

Anybody have experiences with it?

Regarding fuel quality. I whole heartedly agree that fuel is a problem at many outlets. Not only is there a difference of quality - but there are differences in "other contaminants".

Ever been fueling and suddenly the pump handle jumps or the hose and handle move or the pump makes a funny noise? I'm told that is sediment or paraffin based globs coming through (paraffin - as in wax like Pennsylvania oils have).

Fuel additives by many names available for $1 or $2 a bottle just seem effective only for de-icing etc.. Every 2500 or 3000 miles I use one of the fuel additives that comes in an aluminum can (not plastic). I've been told that all the good fuel additive injector cleaners must come in metal cans because they soften the plastic containers. If it comes in plastic - I'm told it won't do much for you.

And trial and error has proven it true. I notice dramatic difference in my vehicles after using the $5 to $9 cleaners in aluminum - and no difference at all with the plastic bottled $1 to $4 cleaners.

I got almost 17.5 mpg this weekend!! WooHoo!!!

Does anyone know how accurate is the MPG gauge in the drivers information center?

I went on a trip this weekend, 350 miles of open road driving, and it said I got 21.7 mpg. I drive an 04 silverado, ext. cab with a 5.3 engine, and that sounds a little too good to be true.

All the tires and everything are still stock, but I did add a tonneau cover.

Greetings Dr Love,

Nothing beats the manual process of fill-to-fill gallons divided into miles calculation - just like the old days. But the D.I.C. should be relatively accurate assuming the following:

1. If your vehicle is a rwd. A 4x4 seems a bit strong at 21.7. Or you could have had the wind at your back :-)

2. If your tires are not worn down. Smaller tires will effect mileage calculations.

3. If you reset your d.i.c. before you left on the trip.

On the highway, with tonneau cover and rwd and a steady accelerator foot and no pulling load - I get 20.5 to 21.5 with my Vortec 6000. So 21.7 doesn't sound too out of line.

White Lightening

My truck is 2WD and the tires only have 8,000 miles, and I did reset the DIC right after I filled up the tank, before leaving for the trip. So, I'll fill it up again tonight to double check the DIC. Thanks.

Well, I filled the tank tonight for the first time since the trip I mentioned earlier and my actual mileage was 20.5 mpg. Its not as good as the 21.7, but still pretty good. All told, I went 373 miles on 18 gallons. I guess the dic is fairly accurate but not exact.

I am envious of all you guys. I get right around 12mpg give or take a half. 2500 4x4 with 6.0, and it can pull into a gas station all by itself. Gas does make a difference though. I will not let any vehicle in my family be filled up with generic gas. BP, Amoco, Citgo, Exxon, or Texaco for us, and primarily Amoco and Exxon. I had too many old carbs rebuilt because of bad gas.

I am envious of all you guys. I get right around 12mpg give or take a half. 2500 4x4 with 6.0, and it can pull into a gas station all by itself. Gas does make a difference though. I will not let any vehicle in my family be filled up with generic gas. BP, Amoco, Citgo, Exxon, or Texaco for us, and primarily Amoco and Exxon. I had too many old carbs rebuilt because of bad gas.

Greetings DCarson,

No need to be envious - every vehicle has its purpose. I have a good friend who advised me not to get the Chevy truck I ended up getting - if gas mileage was a concern for me. He has a 2003 2500 4x4 std cab long bed with the 6.0 and he claimed at the time that he never ever got more than 13, usually it was 12 or so. When I got my truck, he was a bit frustrated that I was getting so much better mileage than he was - so I bet him I could increase his by 15% and we'd measure it AFTER two tankfuls of gas had been run thru - then the third one was the measurement. Did it. Ended up just under 16 - and he was both happy it could be done - and ticked that he lost the bet to me :-)

White Lightening

well then don't be a darn tease. How did you do it?

well then don't be a darn tease. How did you do it?

Greetings DCarson,

It was a series of things:
1. Ran the gas down to low level - then required specific gas station fillups (to assure good gas).
2. First tank of gas - use one of the cheap fuel cleaners (plastic bottle)
3. Second tank of gas - use good fuel cleaner in an aluminum can (I used Slick 50)

Reasoning to this point - first tank had to soften any accumulated crud in the fuel system (injectors etc.) - then the "real" one (Slick 50 version) is free to do its thing.

4. Tire pressure - all 4 tires.
5. Had someone check/inspect wheel bearings and pack/lubricate if needed.
6. Required driver to keep tailgate down on highway (to simulate a tonneau cover or cap to improve wind resistance).
7. Changed out air filter.
8. Did an oil change and used Slick 50 oil additive.
9. Washed and waxed the truck.
10. The "measurement" tank of fuel was the third tank of gas. He drove a highway route that he often drives but the rule was - no driving faster than the speed limit. Normally he gets about 12 to 13 mpg on this trip - instead he got just a hair less than 16.

For reference - 2500 HD 4x4, 6 liter V8 gas, 8 foot box, standard cab 2003 model.

Note: I recommended he switch to a FRAM Air Hog air filter instead of standard - but he didn't want to spend the money on it.

Note: He drives fast - my guess is had I been driving instead - we'd have kept that speed limit rule "a little tighter" and probably gotten to nearly 17.

White Lightening

i have a 2001 ext cab short bed with the 4.8 V8 and get 19 city 24.5 hwy
i also have a 2004 reg cab long bed 4.3 V6 company truck that i get 14 city 15 hwy

the V6's have to work way to hard to pull around these full size trucks ... that is my guess on the gas millage

White litnin'
sounds about like me. I bought the truck used, so first thing I did is have a thorough service. That actually included buying new set of bfg's, run three tanks of premium gas with red line total system fuel cleaner in the first one, and chevron in the next two. I also run a bottle of fuel cleaner in about every third tank of gas. Oil was changed when I got the truck, and again in another 1500 miles just to check everything out. My truck has to stay washed and waxed because I have an aircraft detailing company and it looks bad if my stuff is dirty. Actually waxed with a straight teflon sealant. I need to keep the tailgate down more often. I do whenever I can, but I often forget. I have a new purolator air filter in, but am planning to switch to eithr a kn, green, or one of the new sponge racing filters.

1999 2500 4x4 6.0 ext cab. I am getting 12 and on the hwy with gate down can get about 13.5 I have started driving my nissan more now.

Greetings,

I didn't want to get off on a different subject with this thread - however I did have a question about which grade of gas to use for my truck. If anyone has an opinion - I'm all ears at the following thread.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=353128

White Lightening

i got like 18 MPG this last weekend in my 02 5.3L doin like 90-95 the whole 4 hours.....also found my Govenor at around 99 mph.......

i get a bit more than 22 mpg. i got a 5.3 v8. i change my oild with mobil 1 with a kn filter, every 4000 kilometres, sorry guys i am in canada. my diffs have always used the royal purples max gear oil which gives it more horsepower and better mileage. i recently changed my trans oil, also royal purple and installed a oil cooler and a 3 quart pan from b&m, this gave it a smoother shift and it kinda feels like i have more horses under the hood. i have a kn filk kit installed, for better air flow. plus a soft tonneau cover which really helped me out. all in all when i bought the truck it wasn't good, i have had many problems with it, probably close to everyone listed in this forum but i love this truck.... it's is all in the matter of how you guys take care of it, and how you drive it...

i get a bit more than 22 mpg. i got a 5.3 v8. i change my oild with mobil 1 with a kn filter, every 4000 kilometres, sorry guys i am in canada. my diffs have always used the royal purples max gear oil which gives it more horsepower and better mileage. i recently changed my trans oil, also royal purple and installed a oil cooler and a 3 quart pan from b&m, this gave it a smoother shift and it kinda feels like i have more horses under the hood. i have a kn filk kit installed, for better air flow. plus a soft tonneau cover which really helped me out. all in all when i bought the truck it wasn't good, i have had many problems with it, probably close to everyone listed in this forum but i love this truck.... it's is all in the matter of how you guys take care of it, and how you drive it...

Greetings Silverdoking,

I'm curious. It sounds from your post, like you have put Royal Purple in your differential and also plan on putting it in your transmission.

My understanding is that for Royal Purple to be used - you have to eliminate the prior oil based product so there is no contamination etc.. Tranmissions are difficult to understand how you could purge the past regular trans fluid - because dropping the pan doesn't eliminate a good percentage still in the transmission. So how do you get the fluid ALL out of entire transmission system. And I would think purging the diffential fluid would be similarly difficult. I'm considering doing what you did but I can't figure out how to get it switched out without diluting the Royal purple with the original fluids (or contaminating the performance of the expensive Royal Purple product).

1. What was your procedure for each?
2. What kinds of costs did you spend to accomplish it?
3. What kinds of benefits or improvements did you notice?

White Lightening

Maybe on the rear end I would flush it with diesel, but then wouldn´t the royal purple get contaminated with the diesel? do you flush out the diesel with gasoline and let evaporate?? hmm...

Just for your information..... When I changed my rear diff for example, I drained the fluid, then took the cover off, cleaned up, put a new gasket.... and put cover back... I then filled with the royal purple....now because it is just about 2 in a half quarts, I did not buy any cheaper fluid( I'll explain later). I put the royal purple in, then drove for about 50 kilometres, drained again the fluid and filled it again with royal purple.... I will change it again in 20, 000 kilometres, since I like to take care of it so much....the rear diff cost me about 5 quarts- $60.00 bucks canadian, and the gasket cost about $15.00. Almost the same for the front diff, minus the gasket..... For the transmission fluid it was a little more expensive, or a lot more.... but I feel with the improvements and money that I have spent is well worth it... I believe that my transmission will last me for a VERY, VERY, VERY, long time....I drained the pan, replaced filter.... At this point I was debating whether to flush it out, or not but with all the stories I have heard I decided to stick with my plan.... I also changed those little, dawm pieces of plastic... then put pan back... and filled with some cheap transmission fluid, as long as ut's new it doesn't matter... 5 quarts.... drove for a little while and did the same again... drop pan, change filter again... and out 5 more quarts cheap fluid.... drove a while.... and then only drained the fluid, the fluid this time..... I did this one more time... for a total of 20 quarts cheap fluid and two filters.... now the good part drain again.. this time fill with royal purple....I did this 5 times, and the last time using a brand new filter.... it cost me 3 filters--- $30.00 bucks each = $90.00 + 20 quarts cheap fluid $30.00 + 25 quarts royal purple.... I think it cost me around $210.00 Grand Total---$330. 00
I also added a transmission cooler, and the B&M pan for $200.00 ..... yes, it was expensive but well worth it.... now I will keep changing it every 30,000 kilometres... so it better dawm last me forever... I hope.....

I forgot to tell you that there was definately a performance inprovement, GAURANTEED smoother shifts.... I was very impressed... That is why I switched almost every thing to Royal Purple, just don't change your transfer case fluid to Royal Purple, actually there is no specificcally made for transfer case fluid from royal purple.. but the syncromax is supposed to go there..... but don't do it.... Auto Trac II is the only fluid for these trucks.... sorry for the long post.....

One more... that is the only way I could think about changing these fluids.... I did this all within my abilties....so I hope that the money, time, and care make this truck last forever??????? But I recommend that you change the rear diff at least to royal purple.... you can actually feel the difference, more horsepower thats for sure....

I have a 99 silverado wiht the 4.3 vortec and a 5 spd stick with the 8 ft bed, depending on how I drive and the weather conditions i get anywhere form 900 to 1200 kms per tank of fuel. I have a 128 liter tank I think thats about 33 gallons. so its about 23 mpg or for the canadians out there around 10 liters per 100 km

Running on propane i got 11.8 mpg, at a cost of 7 cents per mile, I just run out of propane and switched to a full tank of gas, give me a while to see what cost I get...

Running on propane i got 11.8 mpg, at a cost of 7 cents per mile, I just run out of propane and switched to a full tank of gas, give me a while to see what cost I get...

Greetings Silveradoman,

I take it you have a vehicle with the "gas tank" mounted in the truck bed and you have a customized engine for burning propane ?????

I thought those units then didn't have the ability to use gasoline anymore. Can you give us a bit more of a description of your vehicle configuration?

White Lightening

Well, the system is setup to run on either gasoline or propane, by the flip of a switch, I can be running on propane at 60mph and flip the switch, the truck will loose power like if I let go of the gas pedal, and 2 seconds later you will feel the engine literally "kick in" with the other fuel. The system addons are:

1 OBD II controller PN 5929 from Dual Curve
1 IMPCO mixer
1 IMPCO gas pressure regulator
1 propane filter
1 200 liter gas tank (you can get them smaller, I wanted the autonomy of running 1,500 miles or more without seeing a gas station).
1 Dashboard selector switch
1 fuel sending unit (so the propane gas level will read out on the stock dash fuel gage indicator)
hoses, fittings and bla bla bla.

The OBD II controller will modify the timing and monitor/control the fuel ratio while running on propane, I installed a fuel ratio gage just as a precaution to see if the controller crapped out and I was sending to rich a mixture into the engine, this never happened. Flip the switch and open up the mixer throttle body with the lever (in the picture the switch is behind the lever) to function with gasoline, when I do this the fuel pump in the tank turns on, the inyectors turn on and a shut off valve cuts off the propane. The OBD II controller also bypasses so your PCM will revert the timing back to work on gasoline. On the picture looking into the hood there is a lot of contrast from the sun (lower 60's today, sorry about that you snow buried northeners).
Flip the switch again to shut down the pump & inyectors and turn on the 5929 controller, propane flows thru the shut off valve, goes into the pressure regulator which lowers the pressure from 300some psi down to ONE psi (coolant lines run through the regulator so it doesn´t freeze) and from there it goes to the throtle body thru a 1.5 inch hose to the top of the mixer (serves as a carburator) that replaces your stock housing right on top of the throttle body. The idle mix is controlled in the mixer with a servo and the full throttle mix is controlled on the regulator (you can see the two wire harness going into the regulator).

Fun ain´t it! The last picture I just took it because the cloud over the mountain looked awesome.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/222846switch-med.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/222846tank-med.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/222846controler-med.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/222846equip-med.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/222846IMAG0127-med.JPG

I have a question... I'm suspecting that my cats are stopping up, but I dunno how to prove it. My mileage has went down over the last few months, even before my tune, and it seeme like it used to have more power....is there any way to make sure they are stopping up before I cut them? This will also make me loose some low-end power if I eliminate them?

If you are going to eliminate them, take the whole catback off the truck, and go in through the top of the cat by cutting along the length of the cat and take the guts out, then close it up again. It will pass inspection (they´ll see the canisters) and you´ll get the extra power! :lol2:

I don't have inspection here :D never have, hopefully never will. This is the first vehicle I've left the cats on. I just wanna know if I do cut them off, will my low end torque suffer....I don't want that.

It seems as though many truck owners in this forum spend hundreds even thousands of dollars modifying their pickup to save a few mpg. Is it really worth it? I am looking at doing some mods to my 2002 Z71 (air intake, exhaust, programmer)...but I am doing it for the extra HP-better mpg will just be a biproduct. How much will you have to save at the pump to recoup all the money spent on improving mpg? Just a thought.

It seems as though many truck owners in this forum spend hundreds even thousands of dollars modifying their pickup to save a few mpg. Is it really worth it? I am looking at doing some mods to my 2002 Z71 (air intake, exhaust, programmer)...but I am doing it for the extra HP-better mpg will just be a biproduct. How much will you have to save at the pump to recoup all the money spent on improving mpg? Just a thought.

Greetings Jzurita,

I can understand your viewpoint, but I think you may be missing a more important reasoning for fuel savings. When you look at machinery - whether it is a truck engine or a metal lathe or a table saw - the less resistance you have to "spin it", the more efficient it operates. Because it operates more efficiently - it also maximizes its power abilities (within reason). What I think you're seeing by many of the posters here - is they are working at ways to improve lubrication, improve performance, and reduce "drag" issues. All that - shows up in improved gas mileage and improved vehicle longevity in my opinion - and it also gives you better performance.

It doesn't mean the effort is ONLY about saving an extra gallon or two a week (or 3 or 4 or 5) - the MPG is a measuring device also - measuring how efficiently your engine is operating. Take your own engine/truck - find methods of increasing its MPG - and the chances are - it will lengthen the usable life of your engine/truck also.

To put it another way. If I'm "capable" of walking 5 miles a day - and then I work on being able to walk 10 miles a day - chances are - the "ability" to improve will mean I'll be much healthier in the long run. Just my viewpoint.

White Lightening

It seems as though many truck owners in this forum spend hundreds even thousands of dollars modifying their pickup to save a few mpg. Is it really worth it? I am looking at doing some mods to my 2002 Z71 (air intake, exhaust, programmer)...but I am doing it for the extra HP-better mpg will just be a biproduct. How much will you have to save at the pump to recoup all the money spent on improving mpg? Just a thought.

I spent 1000's and still get the same mpg. 11.5
Looks like I have to get a S10.

Anybody hear how the 2005's are for gas mileage compared to prior years? Any technology improvements?

Anybody hear how the 2005's are for gas mileage compared to prior years? Any technology improvements?

Crap No, They told me that my new 2005 4.10 rear end would get the same gas mileage as the 3.73. That was bull. I was looking for the average gas mileage when I ran across this forum. I love my truck except the gas mileage. I have a 2005 Silverado z71 4.10 rear end, 5.3L, 4500 miles, stock tires, live on flat land, live in a small town so its not stop and go, and I driver a couple of miles on the interstate daily to go to work and I'm only getting 13-13.6 miles per gallon. Straight HWY no stops 17-17.5. Honestly, I would not have bought it if I new I'd get 13 miles to the gallon. I wish there was a way I could give it back. I haven't read the whole thread but will as time allows. Any helpful advice on improving my situtation would be appreciated. I've thought about putting a K&N air filter in it. Here as pic of my nice looking gas gussler.

http://xbleagues.com/uploads/1106457238/gallery_62_10_1110397798.jpg

Crap No, They told me that my new 2005 4.10 rear end would get the same gas mileage as the 3.73. That was bull. I was looking for the average gas mileage when I ran across this forum. I love my truck except the gas mileage. I have a 2005 Silverado z71 4.10 rear end, 5.3L, 7000 miles, stock tires, live on flat land, live in a small town so its not stop and go, and I driver a couple of miles on the interstate daily to go to work and I'm only getting 13-13.6 miles per gallon. Straight HWY no stops 17-17.5. Honestly, I would not have bought it if I new I'd get 13 miles to the gallon. I wish there was a way I could give it back. I haven't read the whole thread but will as time allows. Any helpful advice on improving my situtation would be appreciated. I've thought about putting a K&N air filter in it. Here as pic of my nice looking gas gussler.

http://xbleagues.com/uploads/1106457238/gallery_62_10_1110397798.jpg

Sorry, but there's nothing you can do to improve mpg.that I know of.
Maybe change your gears to 3.42.

Crap No, They told me that my new 2005 4.10 rear end would get the same gas mileage as the 3.73. That was bull. I was looking for the average gas mileage when I ran across this forum. I love my truck except the gas mileage. I have a 2005 Silverado z71 4.10 rear end, 5.3L, 4500 miles, stock tires, live on flat land, live in a small town so its not stop and go, and I driver a couple of miles on the interstate daily to go to work and I'm only getting 13-13.6 miles per gallon. Straight HWY no stops 17-17.5. Honestly, I would not have bought it if I new I'd get 13 miles to the gallon. I wish there was a way I could give it back. I haven't read the whole thread but will as time allows. Any helpful advice on improving my situtation would be appreciated. I've thought about putting a K&N air filter in it. Here as pic of my nice looking gas gussler.

http://xbleagues.com/uploads/1106457238/gallery_62_10_1110397798.jpg

Greetings Falcon z,

I'm really surprised that your Z71 would have a 4.10 axle ratio. That is what they use in the SS because it gives better "redlight" quick-off-the-line performance. It also effects the gas mileage too.

What you can do from present? First thing - you can make sure you have a tonneau cover - as this changes wind resistance. I have a HARD but folding unit (folds to 4 sections) - and it improved my mileage by 2 mpg on the highway. Also my experience is that if you break the truck in properly - you will notice improved gas mileage after the first 5,000 to 10,000 miles.

the thread also mentions a number of other ideas (using slick 50, airhog air filter, premium gas, etc.).

White Lightening

Thanks for the advice, I check into the things you listed. I think there are quite a few 4.10's running around in the 2005's. When I was told that it would get the same gas mileage as the 3.73 I fell hook, line, and sinker. I did call Cheverolet and they said the truck could break in between 5000-7000 miles. *fingers crossed* But I've heard of one case where it did and he's driveing a Ford now. Just curious doesn't anyone think that me raising my torson bars an inch effected my mpg?

hmmmm.. As a last resort I wonder how much it would cost to change out to 3.42 or 3.73 gears?

Thanks for the advice, I check into the things you listed. I think there are quite a few 4.10's running around in the 2005's. When I was told that it would get the same gas mileage as the 3.73 I fell hook, line, and sinker. I did call Cheverolet and they said the truck could break in between 5000-7000 miles. *fingers crossed* But I've heard of one case where it did and he's driveing a Ford now. Just curious doesn't anyone think that me raising my torson bars an inch effected my mpg?

hmmmm.. As a last resort I wonder how much it would cost to change out to 3.42 or 3.73 gears?

I'm going to put a a gear vendors overdrive unit in mine.
They say you can get 5 to 8 mpg more with it.

Hey White Lightning

I've found the best way to improve my Silverado mileage is to sneak over to my neighbors when he's sleeping and syphon a little off the top. Not to much, but just enough to get by from day to day. :)

For those of you reading this....I happen to know White Lightning so don't get upset.

Chazbo007

Why would someone get upset? If someone were to get upset, I would smack him...This is supposed to be a fun forum...one of the best....And I might give that a try, since gas prices are giving me a headache......laugh, and ye shall be free......freeeeeeeee, I say.......

Hey White Lightning

I've found the best way to improve my Silverado mileage is to sneak over to my neighbors when he's sleeping and syphon a little off the top. Not to much, but just enough to get by from day to day. :)

For those of you reading this....I happen to know White Lightning so don't get upset.

Chazbo007

Greetings Chazbo007,

Sounds like a good plan - just remember - if you have a Go-Kart be sure to pick a Go-Kart to get the right fuel. Don't want any rocket fuel in a motor that can't handle it :smile:

White Lightening

Greetings Chazbo007,

Sounds like a good plan - just remember - if you have a Go-Kart be sure to pick a Go-Kart to get the right fuel. Don't want any rocket fuel in a motor that can't handle it :smile:

White Lightening


Hmmm.....maybe that's why my 5.3 has been spitin and sputerin....just a low grade fuel issue. :evillol:

Follow the link in my signature, the one about the acetone. It is definately making a difference in my gas mileage, but I have yet to be able to calculate the exact MPG increase. Somewhere between 25% and 50%. I just put glasspacks on, so my foot's still a bit heavier than normal, I just love that deep rumble :)

Follow the link in my signature, the one about the acetone. It is definately making a difference in my gas mileage, but I have yet to be able to calculate the exact MPG increase. Somewhere between 25% and 50%. I just put glasspacks on, so my foot's still a bit heavier than normal, I just love that deep rumble :)

Yeah, but isn't you engine carbureted? If you read on that page (or maybe it was a page linked out of that page), it also says it wouldn't make that mch difference in a fuel injected engine.

Well, I've got my everyday mpg up from 13.6 to 16-17 just by driving like grandpa. I still hope it will break in because I shouldn't have to driver like this. If not, I can't keep shifting at 1600 RPMs. But I will do it for now since the gas is so darn high. If my truck never breaks in, I'll change to synthetic oil and change the air filter.

Yeah, but isn't you engine carbureted? If you read on that page (or maybe it was a page linked out of that page), it also says it wouldn't make that mch difference in a fuel injected engine.

My engine is carbureted. I don't recall reading that, but I figured that would be the case since fuel injection is much more efficient. The guy who wrote the page that I linked to drives, I believe, a 98 neon. He said he is getting 52(?)MPG. I don't know what they get normally, but I'm sure it would be low 40s at best.

acetone doesn't seem like a good deal to me since the last time i bought it, it was $12.50 a gallon just a few weeks ago when i was doing some painting

My dad has a 2000 3/4 ton 6.0l pickup with 40,xxx miles on it, and it only gets 11.2 mpg with a K&N drop in filter and grandma driving. We took the back brakes apart since we felt some drag, and the rotors were all rusted. This has to be the culprit for the horrible mileage. Now that the warranty is up, we have heard other people compaining of bad, rusted rotors. It seems that all the metal is junk, rusts, and swells, causing the e-brake, and regular brakes to hang up. Hopefully this gets fixed in a few days, then I'll report the mpg. Shouldn't Chevy be held responsible for these junky, $125 ea. dollar parts? I think he is going to call a dealer tomorrow and see whats up. Hopefully they replace them since Chevy put out junk metal. Get this, 1 of the rotors is perfect, with no drag. I suppose it came from a different batch of rotors... :screwy:

My V6 with 3.42s gets about 18 highway. Shit if you ask me. I want a 6.0L!

I recently scored 18 with my 2003 4.8L on a cross-country trip (it was over the Rockies). Now, the good part: I have a 6" lift and 315's with stock gears. MUCH better than I expected. My best freind has the same truck with a 5.3L. He averages 14 on the highway. Probably driving style, but who knows, maybe that .4 liters matters?

Greetings Fellow Gas/Diesel users,

Many good ideas and topics have and are being covered on this thread. On another thread - I started asking about the Nelson Tune custom chip and Westers Tune custom chip. I did this because it seems mileage can be improved on your truck withthe use of these custom chips. But rather than just opinions from those of us who read about them - Ithought it more practical to get actual owners comments instead. Words and advertising aren't nearly as good as actual live experiences.

The purpose of this specific thread was to get comments from existing Nelson and Westers tune chip owners - about how it improved their gas mileage and performance. If you're interested in one of those areas and comments from actual owners - this link may be of interest to you as well as the thread you're already on.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=403748

Keep the ideas coming - improving gas mileage or reducing the costs of fuel allow each of us to spend the money on something else instead.

White Lightening

Just figured my MPG for city travel, nowhere near the highway... 14.22 MPG

Greetings,

Have you noticed that more than 210 votes have been cast regarding us truck owners highway gas mileages for our Chevy 1500 series trucks? Great response to date - but there are more votes out there still to come. Obviously people are reading this thread - hopefully many have gotten new ideas or insights from the combined efforts of many.

I recently observed that Chevy is saying they improved the gas mileage on the 2005 1500s versus the 2004 and prior. Considering they are using the same engines - I'm wondering how they did that. Its not a big amount - about 1 MPG city and 1 MPG highway. Still - the body seems identical, engine does too, did they change the shift points or gearing?

Updating my truck performance. Originally I got about 20 or 20.5 mpg on the highway during much of my first couple thousand miles (after switching gas caps, tonneau, Slick 50 etc. etc.). But now - after 5,000 miles on the odometer (and after my 3rd oil change now) - mileage has improved to 21.5 or above on the highway (still no changes or alterations other than mileage on the odometer). I figure this isn't too bad for a 6 liter engine - apparently "break in" period is now showing some positive results.

Has anyone else tried some of the suggestions mentioned in this thread? Many contributors have added a number of great ideas. I know I've used several of them - all for the positive - I still haven't done a tuning chip (I'm told by Nelson to expect another 1 to 2 MPG while adding about 30 HP of performance too).

For those who might think MPG isn't importent - I continue to disagree. Its not so much the cost of gas (though that makes an effect too) but Efficiency of any machine - can be determined by the power required to make it operate PROPERLY. I'm not talking about starving or stripping performance away or measuring under only "perfect" conditions or with the smallest engine. With a 345 horsepower V8 engine in a full size 2wd 2004 extended cab 1500 truck - I haven't lost a bit of performance or handling.

When I left the Chevy dealership with 32 miles on my new truck - I had a big smile on my face - a new monthly payment to make - and I got 17.5 mpg on the highway. I believed from the day I left the dealership - that I could improve on those numbers - just as I had with other past vehicles. Since focusing on how to improve the mileage - it has gone up and up - to now - with 5200 miles on the truck - I'm getting 21.5 and better (one trip was just over 22). And as per my theory - my performance has kept equal or improved. My theory is virtually all vehicles can experience improvements if the owner is willing to make the small efforts to do it. Factory mileage levels - like factory performance levels - are the beginning - not the absolute - and as many of you modifiers will attest - improvements are possible from GM's "average" settings.

Many threads on the automotive forums seem to have complaints or negative comments on their vehicles. I have none on mine to date (knock on wood). The idea of this thread isn't to complain - but to improve - to make it better for each and all of us - regardless what you do get - can it be better?

Most of us use our trucks for work and pleasure combined - so they need "to be a truck". I'm pleased so many others of all years and conditions - have seen it the same way and have worked on making this thread a positive one. Keep the ideas coming - we can use all the help we can get to improve our vehicles. Saving nickels and dimes - now has turned into saving dollars at the gas pump - and just as importantly, improving the performance and longevity of our vehicles - seems a great investment of time and effort - to me.

Nothing is too small of an idea that can't be discussed - your suggestions all can be equally valuable to some of us readers.

White Lightening

I got a question how about a smaller truck with a big engine would that truck have good gas milage the only one I can think of is the dakota r/t with the 5.9 engine it would take alot less to push a smaller truck right???

I got a question how about a smaller truck with a big engine would that truck have good gas milage the only one I can think of is the dakota r/t with the 5.9 engine it would take alot less to push a smaller truck right???

I have a couple friends with Dakota extended cabs with the V8 Magnum engine. I just don't understand it - Dodge trucks seem to get lousy mileage. Their Dakotas (my friends) - each get about 17 mpg on the highway (they drive alot of highway) and don't have the opportunity to hammer the throttle. A full size Dodge with the same engine in it gets the same or even a hair better mileage. There "ought" to be a benefit to driving a Dakota over a full size - their "ought" to be a benefit to a Ranger over a F150 - but it doesn't seem to be much if any difference for comparably sized engine performance/power.

White Lightening

sad

I've heard tell that using E-85 gas (fully ethanol) - although lower in price per gallon - nets out less MPG - so that many don't really end up saving much money by using it. Any others aware of such similar circumstances?

I guess the 2002 thru 2005 5.3 liter engines in the Silverado can use it - my 6.0 liter LQ9 supposedly is flex-fuel also - but with only 13 cents seperating premium gas from unleaded - I'll choose premium over the even cheaper E-85 - just not worth the risks to me.

e 85 is a good thing helps local econmy not arabs
made from corn
if ur truck is a flex fuel be shure us it ive been usin it my truck seems to have more power but i do get a little lower mpg i say use it

e 85 is a good thing helps local econmy not arabs
made from corn
if ur truck is a flex fuel be shure us it ive been usin it my truck seems to have more power but i do get a little lower mpg i say use it

If the motivation to use E85 is saving money - it doesn't seem logical. If you save 25 or 30 cents a gallon - but get less MPG - your net cost may actually be higher. Additionally - ethanol - from what I've been told - is more abrasive or "harder" on engines and components. Time will tell - I'm sticking with premium until more evidence exists to counterbalance the multiple potential disadvantages of E85. Maybe if they come out with an E93 - it might get a little more interesting :licka:

e 85 is a good thing helps local econmy not arabs
made from corn
...


I can't comment on the technical aspects of using ethanol, but us taxpayers sure have been suckered by the corn and ethanol industries. Our tax subsidies have artificially propped up this industry, when we could be spending that money on other energy programs that would truly reduce our dependence on foreign oil.

IMHO, that part of the local economy doesn't deserve its special status, as it hasn't delivered on promises to reduce foreign oil dependance nor reduce air pollution. It was a sham from the beginning. If you really believe what you've stated then you've been breathing their fumes for too long.

Sorry for the rant, it's just one of my many pet peeves.

I can't comment on the technical aspects of using ethanol, but us taxpayers sure have been suckered by the corn and ethanol industries. Our tax subsidies have artificially propped up this industry, when we could be spending that money on other energy programs that would truly reduce our dependence on foreign oil.

IMHO, that part of the local economy doesn't deserve its special status, as it hasn't delivered on promises to reduce foreign oil dependance nor reduce air pollution. It was a sham from the beginning. If you really believe what you've stated then you've been breathing their fumes for too long.

Sorry for the rant, it's just one of my many pet peeves.

I also agree with several of your points. The idea is supposed to be - to produce a product that is at least as good (or better) than what we have now. I'm told that the actual total cost of production of a gallon of E85 is well over $3.00 a gallon (well over) - and we are subsidizing that gap (and have for years) with our tax dollars. Pipeline companies and refiners have had a heck of a time too - as the transmission of Ethanol based product requires special handling because of its corrosive/caustic effects. Our gas prices would be lower - if refiners didn't have to jump thru all the ethanl hoops they do now.

To date - testing shows E85 will propel some vehicles. But so does rubbing alcohol or Jack Daniels - but that doesn't mean its a smart thing to do. As yet we don't know what E85 actually does to vehicle engines and catalytic converters over time and many miles of use. If E85 turns out to harm or prematurely age these items - then that means more resources wasted because more vehicles and parts have to be produced than would have the other way - and more land fill products etc. etc.. And air quality?

Environmental benefits and energy efficiencies come when we can measure ALL the impacts - not just a few.

White Lightening

the reason that it is not doing any good is because people like u dont give it a try and dont research what the stuff is befor u bash it
oh yeah this stuff dosent hurt a engine it is good for it it cleans it as u drive it and the alt fuel that hurts engine parts it methanol

quick question how much better does the 4.3 do better on gas?? and does the 5.3 have better mpg then the ram 1500 02 and up??? how about vs the fords mpg???
Thanx

no matter what engine you have in the truck, the gas mileage is just about the same.

quick question how much better does the 4.3 do better on gas?? and does the 5.3 have better mpg then the ram 1500 02 and up??? how about vs the fords mpg???
Thanx

Quick answer for you. I know several people with 03 and 04 Ford F150s or Dodge 1500's. My 6 liter Silverado seems to get much better gas mileage than either of those groups (currently mine is 21.5 to 22 mpg highway driving).

White Lightening

Plus, GM is the only full size truck manufacturer to recommend 87 octane. The other trucks recommend higher octanes.

Plus, GM is the only full size truck manufacturer to recommend 87 octane. The other trucks recommend higher octanes.

wow I did not know that only gm??? if thats the case it would cost more to own a dodge or ford

yup

hmm... looks like I was wrong, at least about the ford. ford also recommends regular unleaded. guess that was something else the sales guy was lying about when I bought my truck...

are you wrong about the dodge too???

are you wrong about the dodge too???

I'm not sure. I got the Ford info from Ford's website, but Dodge did not have any fuel recommendations I could find on their site.

so how could you make a statement like that without proof???

like I said, that is what my sales guy told me, read the previous post

o im sorry your right do you use 87 octane???

i do

o im sorry your right do you use 87 octane???

Several of you talking about regular versus premium. Most of the Ford F150s suggest 87 but the new 5.4 liter engine (as of 2004) they suggest premium. Nissan can run 87 but suggested premium also - as is my 6 liter Chevy Vortec H.O.. Vortec 5.3 and 4.8 and 4.2s are all 87 normally.

Technical determination? If your compression is 9.3 or less - use 87 if it is more than 9.3 then premium may help you.

Incidentally - premium gas in a higher compression engine will give you better gas mileage than using 87 in the very same engine. Literally - it is cheaper to use premium gas in a higher compression engine.

For the same cost as a hypertech tuner and the superchip tuner I got a great tune that covers all my needs and gets some great gas mileage in the city and awesome mileage on the highway. No matter what aftermarket parts I get my Nelson tune can be upgraded to make it better. GM aftermarket products make better gains and then the Nelson tune can make a better gain on that. Go to th LS1TRUCK site and you will see some awesome testimonials. No matter what the octane you run the Nelson tune can get you better mpg AND better driveability.

For the same cost as a hypertech tuner and the superchip tuner I got a great tune that covers all my needs and gets some great gas mileage in the city and awesome mileage on the highway. No matter what aftermarket parts I get my Nelson tune can be upgraded to make it better. GM aftermarket products make better gains and then the Nelson tune can make a better gain on that. Go to th LS1TRUCK site and you will see some awesome testimonials. No matter what the octane you run the Nelson tune can get you better mpg AND better driveability.

I second that. Plus Allen, the guy who owns Nelson Performance, is a super nice guy.

i just got my new 2005 2500hd. it has the 6000 mtor and according to the owners manual it suggests high octane, but says 87 octane is ok... anyone experimented with both to find wich one gives the best mileage? i haven't gone through the first tank of gas yet to figure my mileage, but i'm guessing it's gonna be close to th e11-12 range. it has 550 miles on it (came with 450) what can i do now to help in the future? any help appreciated.

i just got my new 2005 2500hd. it has the 6000 mtor and according to the owners manual it suggests high octane, but says 87 octane is ok... anyone experimented with both to find wich one gives the best mileage? i haven't gone through the first tank of gas yet to figure my mileage, but i'm guessing it's gonna be close to th e11-12 range. it has 550 miles on it (came with 450) what can i do now to help in the future? any help appreciated.

Hey man, check this out: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=3161852&goto=3161852

i just got my new 2005 2500hd. it has the 6000 mtor and according to the owners manual it suggests high octane, but says 87 octane is ok... anyone experimented with both to find wich one gives the best mileage? i haven't gone through the first tank of gas yet to figure my mileage, but i'm guessing it's gonna be close to th e11-12 range. it has 550 miles on it (came with 450) what can i do now to help in the future? any help appreciated.

Timinkc,

I have the 6 liter high output engine. my compression is 10 to 1 while yours is about 9.4 to 1. I found that using premium gas gives me better gas mileage - making the extra 12 cents I pay per gallon - a good payback. Also - as gas prices rise - premium becomes a better deal all the time. that same 10 or 12 cent gap was a big deal with gas at $1.00 - much less at $2.00 - and even less at $2.25.

Just got back from a road trip - travelling at 60 on the highway and a bunch of around town driving at each destination. Averaged 21.9 MPG with my 2 wd Ext. Cab with the 6 liter V.H.O..

I expect to do better once I get a Nelson Tune :smile:

The reasoning behind what you have stated makes sense to me. Right now anyway.... I think I just might try a tank to two of premium the next time I fill up just to do some of my own comparison. I'm dont know what stock compression on an '01 5.3 but I can experiment for just common knowledge.

I'm trying to understand the logic of using Octane Booster. On a 26 gallon tank- why would someone spend $4.00 to do the very same thing that going from Unleaded regular to Premium accomplishes for 12 cents more per gallon?

$.12 X 26 gallons = $3.12

The difference is only less than a buck. I am not sure but I thought the octane booster would increase the octane above that of premium.

$.12 X 26 gallons = $3.12

The difference is only less than a buck. I am not sure but I thought the octane booster would increase the octane above that of premium.

No, I think good octane booster only treats up to 25 gallons a bottle and only increases the octanes by 1 or 2, so dumping that in a 26 gallon tank is running it a little thin. Where are you finding premium that is only $.12 a gallon higher than regular? It usually runs about $.20 a gallon higher than regular here in Atlanta. Also, where are you finding octane booster for $4? The "cheap" stuff I find is about $6.50 at the auto parts. Now, I have a dual octane 87/89 octane Nelson tuned PCM, and if I were to need to do any towing, and I had my usual 87 octane in the tank, I'd just go get a bottle of octane booster. When I have used octane booster in the past, this is what I used:

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=50&catid=2&loc=show

That stuff is wonderful, but I've always been very satisfied with Lucas products.

Greetings Blender,

Many gas outlets here in my 60 mile radius are selling gas as of Friday July 1 at 2.17 for unleaded regular and 2.29 for premium.

State highway gas taxes play a big part in what we all pay for gas - each state has their own amounts added to the price. Minnesota (versus my state of WI) are about 6 cents a gallon less because of state highway gas taxes.

As far as gas boosters - Fleet Farm or Farm + Fleet both sell gas boosters starting at $3.89 a bottle plus tax (don't remember the names ).

What about the products that clean the "gum" out of your fuel injection system? Does this improve your gas mileage?

What about the products that clean the "gum" out of your fuel injection system? Does this improve your gas mileage?

You might see some slight change in gas mileage - but you should definitely see an improvement in performance/drivability. I've had particularly good results with the Slick 50 Gas Treatment product I use about once every oil change. Then AFTER I've used the product and put in ANOTHER new tank of gas - I notice mileage is improved somewhat too.

What about the products that clean the "gum" out of your fuel injection system? Does this improve your gas mileage?

I always use this:

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=26&catid=2&loc=show

But again, lucas stuff has never let me down and has come highly recommended from ssome mechanics of mine.

I'll have to try the products suggested. This has been very educational. Cool!!

does anyone think adding a 160º thermostat would help the MPG?

does anyone think adding a 160º thermostat would help the MPG?
wouldn't change it, might throw off other sensors!!!

wouldn't change it, might throw off other sensors!!!

Not if you had your PCM set for the new therm... :nono:

I have read this entire thread, and there is a big spread in MPG, but the only common denominator is "Chevy"!!.
To get a more accurate reading, I believe that people should be posting the mileage that they are getting, and also their truck configuration.

I used to have a 98 Suburban 1500, 5.7 Vortec 2wd with 373 gears, and it got 18.5 MPG on the highway driving at 80 mph, and it would get 15 in town.
I currently own a 2005 Silverado LS 5.3L, 1500 crew cab, 323 gears, and seem to get about 17 highway; it seems to me that the 373 gears woked better?

At least this would help in identifying if there is a combination of rear end and engine size that produces the best MPG.

Great thread

I have read this entire thread, and there is a big spread in MPG, but the only common denominator is "Chevy"!!.
To get a more accurate reading, I believe that people should be posting the mileage that they are getting, and also their truck configuration.

I used to have a 98 Suburban 1500, 5.7 Vortec 2wd with 373 gears, and it got 18.5 MPG on the highway driving at 80 mph, and it would get 15 in town.
I currently own a 2005 Silverado LS 5.3L, 1500 crew cab, 323 gears, and seem to get about 17 highway; it seems to me that the 373 gears woked better?

At least this would help in identifying if there is a combination of rear end and engine size that produces the best MPG.

Great thread

Also, your Tahoe was more aerodynamic. The bed/tailgate combo creates a lot of drag. You may be losing your MPG there. Also also, give your new truck some more time to "break in"... the MPG's tend to go up a little after the engine is broken in.

I will give it time, and at the same time, I will continue to look for areas to improve mileage, and create my shopping list.

Thanks

I will give it time, and at the same time, I will continue to look for areas to improve mileage, and create my shopping list.

Thanks

Greetings WBS,

You are correct that engine and axle combined make a difference. If you have an engine with great torque - but if your traveling speed doesn't allow you to be in that sweet spot of the torque range - then mileage isn't going to be a benefit- or power or both. As I described on one or more past posts long ago - my engine (6 liter VHO) combined with 3.73 axle ratio and 20 inch wheels gives me a real pleasant crusing speed of 60 mph at 1500 rpm. for me - thats a great rpm/torque combination. If I had the exact same engine but differenet axle ratio - that sweet spot would move. I've found (with factory PCM) that my best mpg area is 40 to 63 (very consistent mpg in this range with air running etc.) - however if I drive 65 - the mpg drops. That small little change must just move out of the sweet spot. With the D.I.C. you can notice the changes and monitor it pretty easily.

White Lightening

I agree, there is a setup for whatever use you intend on giving your vehicle, and I did notice that you and some of the other members listed what their setup is, but a lot of others don't, making it difficult to diagnose why they get the mileage that they are getting.
As for the DIC, I don't have those functions on mine; the window sticker on my truck said that it had a DIC, but all it displays is Odometer, Trip Odometer, and engine hours!, can't get it to display any other functions, so I just figure out my consumption the old fashioned way, at fill-up time.
By the way I just filled up and got 17.6mpg, combined city/highway driving.

As for the sweet spot, you are correct, my wife has a minivan with a DIC in it, and you can see a drastic difference between 70 mph (25mpg) and 80 mph (21mpg).

.......... As for the DIC, I don't have those functions on mine; the window sticker on my truck said that it had a DIC, but all it displays is Odometer, Trip Odometer, and engine hours!, can't get it to display any other functions, so I just figure out my consumption the old fashioned way, at fill-up time. .......

I'm curious about this comment - as my understanding was in the 2004 and 2005 Silverados - you either had the DIC or you didn't - no "limited" or "reduced function" versions that I knew of. Personally - I'd take it to the dealer - and have them test it. On mine - my steering wheel mounted controls - lower left side - those two buttons control the DIC (except reset function) - Lowest button toggles between options in that mode (Odometer, Trip meter, oil usage, fuel available etc.) upper of the two buttons toggles between "modes" which gives you mode for cummulative totals etc. and mode for setups of mirrors and defaults on signals, seats, etc.). Many functions to the DIC. I've seen "work trucks" which don't have a DIC at all - but the only other variety I've seen is the full DIC capability. Again - you may be correct - or it may be some new limited option for 2005 - but I'd get it checked out at the dealership. The DIC is very very useful for many different purposes - including engine efficiency/mpg in my humble opinion.

I just pulled the paperwork on my truck, and DIC is listed as standard equipment, the only thing that I don't have is the remote steering controls, and that may be the reason why I can't access the other functions, unless there is something wrong with it, or I just haven't figured out how to access the info?

Man, I wish someone would close the poll or something; I'm tired of this thread popping up showing it has new replies only to find that it is just someone else who voted :swear:

Man, I wish someone would close the poll or something; I'm tired of this thread popping up showing it has new replies only to find that it is just someone else who voted :swear:

Greetings Blender.

And I on the other hand - am just pleased to see that poll continuing to increase. Currently 240 truck owners have already placed their mileage number on the poll. Just think - beyond just placing their number - many are reading some or all the posts you and many others have contributed. In the Automotive Forums website - Silverado truck category - it is the largest viewed thread by far. It shows the power and interest by many truck owners - to improve and benefit their trucks efficiency and operation. Lets hope that many more in future months - place their milegae number on the poll too - and read the posts - and contribute their input too. The whole goal that many contributors have grasped about this thread topic - is that if there are low cost ways to improve the performance and longevity too for the trucks they get from GM - and save money by doing it too - eveybody wins.

White Lightening

Maybe, but do you really think anyone is actually getting 26 MPG? I kinda doubt that. Also, I tend to believe that the reason this thing has the most views of any topic, is that everytime someone votes, it pops up as having a new post, updates the date/time of the last post, and people are mistakenly coming in here and looking at it. 240 votes?!?!?! We don't even have that many people in here with Silverados. How much data do you want? What do you need it for?

Just got a new truck, my dealer decided to replace my truck, since it was a demo, and the salesmans behaviour with the truck was somewhat questionable, they decided to replace it.

My new truck has 3.73 gears w/5.3 engine and driving at 65 the DIC was reading 19.5 mpg, and at 80 mph it was reading 18.1 mpg
So this seems to be better than the 3.23 gears, but not as good as some of the postings for those with 3.42's, which I don't know how they got them since I did not see them as an option?

As for the DIC, if you don't have the remote option on the wheel, you don't get the rest of the functions; I think this to be a bit misleading by GM, to advertise the DIC as a standard opiton if it isn't fully functional without the Steering wheel buttons!!

Walter

Just got a new truck, my dealer decided to replace my truck, since it was a demo, and the salesmans behaviour with the truck was somewhat questionable, they decided to replace it.

My new truck has 3.73 gears w/5.3 engine and driving at 65 the DIC was reading 19.5 mpg, and at 80 mph it was reading 18.1 mpg
So this seems to be better than the 3.23 gears, but not as good as some of the postings for those with 3.42's, which I don't know how they got them since I did not see them as an option?

As for the DIC, if you don't have the remote option on the wheel, you don't get the rest of the functions; I think this to be a bit misleading by GM, to advertise the DIC as a standard opiton if it isn't fully functional without the Steering wheel buttons!!

Walter

Too bad it wasn't available on my truck :swear: Those can be really nice to have; my dad's Lincoln has it.

Maybe, but do you really think anyone is actually getting 26 MPG? I kinda doubt that. 240 votes?!?!?! We don't even have that many people in here with Silverados. How much data do you want? What do you need it for?

Greetings Blender,

I think you are missing the whole point. "Do I think someone is getting 26 MPG in highway mpg" - yes I absolutely do. But the point is - many other people don't - and you can improve your vehcile performance and efficiency if you want to - rather than just give up and say "that's the way it is". I personally am at 22 MPG with my 6 liter engine full size truck before my Nelson Tune - I'm told I should be around 23 or near 24 after I get the tune. Thats on an extended cab full size truck with 6 liter motor and auto transmission. Someone with a manual transmission and a Nelson tune could/can get 24, 25, or 26 MPG or more in a full size truck.

You see - - - - - - part of my goal in starting the thread - was to get people to see just what a big range is possible - based on engine, rear end, transmission, driving style, truck size and cab, etc. etc. etc.. When only half a dozen people showed their mpg it could have been no benefit - but after dozens did - it started to be believable - then it became more than 200 and its still climbing. Lots of people don't post but they do read this forum.

Ask 6 people what they would guess their new truck might get - and they'll tell you a number - a guess. But ask a couple hundred what they actually are getting and you have a much more valuable series of answers based on the variables.

You don't think we have 240 people reading this silverado forum? I'd guess its much much more than that - they just read - and learn.

But the real point is - mileage is more than just a money issue - and its important to many truck owners how they can extend the longevity and efficiency of their vehicles.

White Lightening

Alright, I've got a 5.3L ECSB, auto tranny, G80 rear end with 3.73 gear ratio, and 32,000 miles on the odometer. I have a Nelson 87/89 dual tune, Royal Purple 5w30, corvette servo, and a TB "coolant" bypass (no need to heat up the air going into the intake). I've been getting ~14.5 MPG in city driving. Anyone want to chime in here and tell me how there is such a big gap between my city driving and these people who "absolutely" get 26 highway MPG?

Alright, I've got a 5.3L ECSB, auto tranny, G80 rear end with 3.73 gear ratio, and 32,000 miles on the odometer. I have a Nelson 87/89 dual tune, Royal Purple 5w30, corvette servo, and a TB "coolant" bypass (no need to heat up the air going into the intake). I've been getting ~14.5 MPG in city driving. Anyone want to chime in here and tell me how there is such a big gap between my city driving and these people who "absolutely" get 26 highway MPG?

Greetings Blender,
As I posted prior - it is possible to get 24, 25, or 26 mpg depending on your vehicle configuration and driving methods. And as I had posted also - to get 26, you'd probably want a manual transmission and 2 wd.

I don't know if you have 2wd or 4 wd but this will make a difference of a couple MPG. You have an auto trans. - so that makes a difference right there. Using Royal Purple is probably a smart thing - and you have a Nelson tune - another smart thing. Proper tire pressure? That makes a little difference. But I notice by your picture that you don't have a tonneau cover - that makes a difference in MPG.

Next - you're trying to compare city mileage and highway. Everyone knows city mileage is much lower than highway mileage on ANY vehicle. You have to compare apples and apples or it doesn't work. My truck gets 21.5 to 22 on the highway while it gets 15, 16, 17, or 18 in town (because there are so many variables in city driving - mine changes often depending on what kind of city conditions I have to deal with). What do you get in highway mileage? 14.5 for in city driving doesn't seem out of line for your vehicle combination.

But lets look at your driving style. Here's a link to a post you did showing your mileage and fillups. You fill up often - often 3 to 8 gallons at a time - implying you do A LOT of stop and go stop and go stop and go - and don't think anything of it. If you have that pattern with all your city driving it kills mileage compared to driving steady city with few stops requiring restarting the truck.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=419627

Ands then there is the accelerator. On the highway - a steady foot takes less discipline. Are you as disciplined in city driving - or do you hit the hammer at each red light and stop sign? Does your Nelson tune prompt you to use your accelerator more aggressively?

My desire isn't to get your mileage up or tell you what to do - only to show other readers and yourself - that IF YOU WANT TO IMPROVE your mileage - you can. If you don't want to - continue your current method. I know others who have posted here have helped me and contributed a bunch to this thread - and I've done some of those things - and will be doing a couple more yet - and its helped.

Lets hope more readers choose to post their ideas and contributions also. More opinions and ideas only serves to benefit all of us.

White Lightening

Currently 39% of respondents on the poll are getting 18 MPG in actual highway driving - or better with a full sized Chevy/GM truck. And almost 19% report getting 20 or better. I think its interesting that many competitor products in SMALLER sized trucks - like Dodge Dakotas etc. don't get as much as 39% of the Chevy owners responding here do. Just goes to show - not only can Chevy haul it, and "bring it" (in power), but it can do it efficiently too.

Greetings,

Does anybody else wonder how come various sized engines for newer Chevy 1500 series trucks get about the same mileages?

--You'd think a Colorado should be much better - but it isn't.




you know I would like to know what you guys think of the I-5 engine that gm has out do you think one day there will be an I-6 for the silverado??? and you said the gas milage on the I-5 engine is not that much better then a silverado with a 5.3 litter engine if thats true how so?????

Greetings Blender,
As I posted prior - it is possible to get 24, 25, or 26 mpg depending on your vehicle configuration and driving methods. And as I had posted also - to get 26, you'd probably want a manual transmission and 2 wd.

I don't know if you have 2wd or 4 wd but this will make a difference of a couple MPG. You have an auto trans. - so that makes a difference right there. Using Royal Purple is probably a smart thing - and you have a Nelson tune - another smart thing. Proper tire pressure? That makes a little difference. But I notice by your picture that you don't have a tonneau cover - that makes a difference in MPG.

Next - you're trying to compare city mileage and highway. Everyone knows city mileage is much lower than highway mileage on ANY vehicle. You have to compare apples and apples or it doesn't work. My truck gets 21.5 to 22 on the highway while it gets 15, 16, 17, or 18 in town (because there are so many variables in city driving - mine changes often depending on what kind of city conditions I have to deal with). What do you get in highway mileage? 14.5 for in city driving doesn't seem out of line for your vehicle combination.

But lets look at your driving style. Here's a link to a post you did showing your mileage and fillups. You fill up often - often 3 to 8 gallons at a time - implying you do A LOT of stop and go stop and go stop and go - and don't think anything of it. If you have that pattern with all your city driving it kills mileage compared to driving steady city with few stops requiring restarting the truck.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=419627

Ands then there is the accelerator. On the highway - a steady foot takes less discipline. Are you as disciplined in city driving - or do you hit the hammer at each red light and stop sign? Does your Nelson tune prompt you to use your accelerator more aggressively?

My desire isn't to get your mileage up or tell you what to do - only to show other readers and yourself - that IF YOU WANT TO IMPROVE your mileage - you can. If you don't want to - continue your current method. I know others who have posted here have helped me and contributed a bunch to this thread - and I've done some of those things - and will be doing a couple more yet - and its helped.

Lets hope more readers choose to post their ideas and contributions also. More opinions and ideas only serves to benefit all of us.

White Lightening

I have a 2wd. I have stopped (as per your "request") filling up when I need 2 gallons of gas. This made ZERO difference in my MPG.

I have a 2wd. I have stopped (as per your "request") filling up when I need 2 gallons of gas. This made ZERO difference in my MPG.

Greetings Blender,

I think you misunderstand my point. The point is that stopping to buy 2 gallons of gas is not efficient. If you like stopping for some other reason - then maybe that makes sense - but the idea of MPG is all about being efficient. Stopping or not stopping for gas - on its own - is no big deal - but it is a symptom of a bigger issue. Let me give you an example. A friend of mine was crabbing about his cost of gas for his vehicle - his mileage was bad - the expense was higher - yadda yadda yadda. So then we needed to go somewhere and I road with him. He stops for pop - leaves the truck running and goes inside. He stops at a friends house - gets out and leaves the truck run - for 15 minutes. We made 5 stops - HE NEVER shut the truck off even though it sat and idled I bet 45 minutes total.

Now he couldn't understand how that would be so bad for his mileage. I made him shut the truck off when he went to get gas. No - he didn't drive the truck hard - but he idled it hard - kept the air running the whole time - and doubtless wasted a couple gallons of gas in the process too. If thats what he wants to do - thats fine - but then he should crab about his gas mileage and gas costs either.

I don't think 14.5 mpg in city driving is bad at all for you - but if you think it isn't good - then cutting down on any inefficient activities will likely increase your result also. By the way - what do you do on the highway?

Greetings Blender,

I think you misunderstand my point. The point is that stopping to buy 2 gallons of gas is not efficient. If you like stopping for some other reason - then maybe that makes sense - but the idea of MPG is all about being efficient. Stopping or not stopping for gas - on its own - is no big deal - but it is a symptom of a bigger issue. Let me give you an example. A friend of mine was crabbing about his cost of gas for his vehicle - his mileage was bad - the expense was higher - yadda yadda yadda. So then we needed to go somewhere and I road with him. He stops for pop - leaves the truck running and goes inside. He stops at a friends house - gets out and leaves the truck run - for 15 minutes. We made 5 stops - HE NEVER shut the truck off even though it sat and idled I bet 45 minutes total.

Now he couldn't understand how that would be so bad for his mileage. I made him shut the truck off when he went to get gas. No - he didn't drive the truck hard - but he idled it hard - kept the air running the whole time - and doubtless wasted a couple gallons of gas in the process too. If thats what he wants to do - thats fine - but then he should crab about his gas mileage and gas costs either.

I don't think 14.5 mpg in city driving is bad at all for you - but if you think it isn't good - then cutting down on any inefficient activities will likely increase your result also. By the way - what do you do on the highway?


<sigh> I wish more of my miles were highway, but I RARELY have occasion to get on the interstate. Maybe your friend is used to driving a diesel? I think it's supposed to be easier on the engine by just letting it idle instead of off and on.

Man, I wish someone would close the poll or something; I'm tired of this thread popping up showing it has new replies only to find that it is just someone else who voted :swear:


Unsubscribe.

Unsubscribe.

Ummm... yeah. I'm not subscribed, but every time you log in, the thread goes straight to the top nd shows it has new posts if someone votes.

Right on! lol

Greetings Fellow Truck Owners,

The real goal and purpose for most of us to be reading and spending time on this A.F. is to learn new things or better understand what we already know. While every week I learn at least one thing new reading other people posts in the many threads here - today was one of those special gems.

I linked below to differnt type of GM forum where a senior engineer who works for GM's lubrication division discusses the reasons and technology used in the GM Oil monitor that we all may take for granted. The link will take you to a summary post of his - but then I continued reading the followup posts for several dozen posts.

He isn't talking theoretical - or opinion - but rather - he deals with the actual testing and performance results from their continuous testing and R & D activity.

In these posts was discussed using petroleum based oils versus synthetic - and how the GM Oil monitor handles each of them - for EACH SEPERATE vehicle. If you're an AMSOL fan - you may be very interested. It also supports my theory that using blanket mileage measurements to change oil is not a reasonable method. The post also discusses the reason why GM specs 5w/30 oil for both cold and hot geography regions alike - and how it improves fuel economy over using 10w/30 etc..

I learned alot that verified many things I currently do with my truck and did in past decades too - maybe some of you will learn something too. And here I thought the GM oil monitor was like the ones Ford had - what a surprise for a former Ford guy :smile:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010523;p=0

Greetings Fellow Truck Owners,

The real goal and purpose for most of us to be reading and spending time on this A.F. is to learn new things or better understand what we already know. While every week I learn at least one thing new reading other people posts in the many threads here - today was one of those special gems.

I linked below to differnt type of GM forum where a senior engineer who works for GM's lubrication division discusses the reasons and technology used in the GM Oil monitor that we all may take for granted. The link will take you to a summary post of his - but then I continued reading the followup posts for several dozen posts.

He isn't talking theoretical - or opinion - but rather - he deals with the actual testing and performance results from their continuous testing and R & D activity.

In these posts was discussed using petroleum based oils versus synthetic - and how the GM Oil monitor handles each of them - for EACH SEPERATE vehicle. If you're an AMSOL fan - you may be very interested. It also supports my theory that using blanket mileage measurements to change oil is not a reasonable method. The post also discusses the reason why GM specs 5w/30 oil for both cold and hot geography regions alike - and how it improves fuel economy over using 10w/30 etc..

I learned alot that verified many things I currently do with my truck and did in past decades too - maybe some of you will learn something too. And here I thought the GM oil monitor was like the ones Ford had - what a surprise for a former Ford guy :smile:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010523;p=0

I was a good article, but the one thing I wish he would have touched on is the "varnishing" or "deposit build up" in engines with synthetic vs. conventional oils. That was a big reason I switched over to Royal Purple... I used to use a can of motor flush at every oil change in my Honda, but this was before I knew the benefits of synthetic

I was a good article, but the one thing I wish he would have touched on is the "varnishing" or "deposit build up" in engines with synthetic vs. conventional oils. That was a big reason I switched over to Royal Purple... I used to use a can of motor flush at every oil change in my Honda, but this was before I knew the benefits of synthetic

About once every 3 or 4 oil changes I do use Motor Flush. Though I'm sure Royal Purple is a fine product - I still like the idea of removing dirt and contaminants from the engine system every 3000 miles or so. By changing oil and oil filter when the oil monitor indicates (or 3000 miles) - it seems that one rids the system. With synthetic - you keep dirt and contaminats in the system for thousands of miles longer. Even if you change the filter and keep the same fluid - those 6 quarts of fluid still carry dirt and contaminents in them even though lubrication continues.

White Lightening

About once every 3 or 4 oil changes I do use Motor Flush. Though I'm sure Royal Purple is a fine product - I still like the idea of removing dirt and contaminants from the engine system every 3000 miles or so. By changing oil and oil filter when the oil monitor indicates (or 3000 miles) - it seems that one rids the system. With synthetic - you keep dirt and contaminats in the system for thousands of miles longer. Even if you change the filter and keep the same fluid - those 6 quarts of fluid still carry dirt and contaminents in them even though lubrication continues.

White Lightening

Nah, with synthetics, you're supposed to change the filter every ~3,000 miles. The synthetic oils have a certain detergent quality, and, if you keep your filters changed, will purge your engine of build ups

Help!!

We have an 2002 2500 HD gas V8 that was getting 12-13 mpg on the highway. My husband went up a size in tire and now we are only getting about 9 mpg. What is the best way to improve this? Besides throwing the larger tires in a ditch!

THANKS!!

Our GM dealer was wanting us to bring the truck in to "reset" the computer. But the more my hubby talked to him, he kept trying to "sell" him on other things. What do you think? Should we bother?

Help!!
We have an 2002 2500 HD gas V8 that was getting 12-13 mpg on the highway. My husband went up a size in tire and now we are only getting about 9 mpg. What is the best way to improve this? Besides throwing the larger tires in a ditch!
Our GM dealer was wanting us to bring the truck in to "reset" the computer. But the more my hubby talked to him, he kept trying to "sell" him on other things. What do you think? Should we bother?

Boy oh boy - going from 12 or 13 to 9 would sure be a big change caused only by switching one size up on tires. I'm suspicious because 1 size larger for highway driving should actually increase mileage I would think - but could hurt city driving mileage. The dealer reset sounds like they thought the speedometer/odometer was NOT properly measuring speed, distance, and MPG. Lets assume that is possible. That would mean you're actually driving faster than you think - which could effect mileage some - and it would mean you're going further than your truck "thinks you are" - which would also give you wrong MPG info.

Others here on this forum are alot sharper on this type of thing than I am - but it seems hard to imagine a single tire size increase could do that much difference. Maybe those tires are actually more than a single size bigger - or he changed rims too. A reset/recalibration of the speedometer/odometer shouldn't cost much I wouldn't think.

White Lightening

I got a question is it possable to get over 25 miles to the gallon I saw some votes on that and up city driving????

and one more thing I found this thread on a guy using acetone and it helps his mpg by up to 50% I think you guys should check this out http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=258335&highlight=gas+milage

De-screening your MAF is not good, and all the mileages on this page are highway, read the poll. You need to buy something by Monday

jlsutter,

I think that what the dealer wants to do is to reprogram the computer, so that it matches the tire size.

If you installed a larger tire, bigger in diameter, it will make your speedometer read slow, and it will register fewer miles that you actually drove, also equating to a higher consumption.
So go to the dealer and have them reprogram the computer to match your tire size, and then do your mileage check, I think that you will se some improvement.
I don't know how your truck is geared, but I'm assume that it is set up for heave hauling/towing so it would be geared accordingly.

Good luck

Wlater_b

id like to hear more about the propan idea

how much did that cost to set up?

id like to hear more about the propan idea
how much did that cost to set up?

Greetings 98,

Propane is not numerous pitfalls. Propane users typically are fleets and have someconnection or easy access to propane stations (as a result utilities in some states use propane as a duel use vehicle fuel). And to justify the considerable costs of installing propane - it requires tax credits (again why fleets use them). Then you have to add in the considerable extra space that propane requires for the tank etc. which comes out of your bed - and you have to add in a hefty surcharge for most insurance companies to cover a propane equipped vehicle.

Who benefits the most from such a dual fuel use? High mileage drivers that move in a 75 mile radiius of their base and are part of a utility fleet (gas, water, and power utilities or city/county government vehicles). Remember - its only good if you can find a fueling station - and there aren't many that are not direct owned for their exclusive fleet use only.

White Lightening

De-screening your MAF is not good, and all the mileages on this page are highway, read the poll. You need to buy something by Monday

I agree about the descreening. I've de-screened mine, and now wish I had a frickin' screen to put back in it...its supposedly screws with the air readings and makes the truck run funny....just my luck

I agree about the descreening. I've de-screened mine, and now wish I had a frickin' screen to put back in it...its supposedly screws with the air readings and makes the truck run funny....just my luck

Couldn't you get a screen from EBay or a junkyard ???

I have a 92 3500 with the 454 with the 4l80e tranny and 4.10 limited slip rear end I get 8 around town and 14 on the hwy I do uderstand the power to weight and gas mileage so when I tip the scales at 7800 lbs empty I understand I am not going to get much better but I will try anything cause I have a big tank and the fillups are over 100$

I am new to this board and just read the first post in this thread. I just purchased another Z71, had a 2000, now have a 2005.

While shopping, I looked at the Colorado, wanted a 4x4, crew cab, Z71 package. It was only rated at 22mpg highway. Really poor for an in-line 5, 3.5 liter engine with V V T (variable valve timing).

The Z71 I purchased is a crew cab, 5.3 liter, 3.42 rear end and it is rated at 19mpg highway. Only 3 mpg worse than the Colorado.

Also, the Colorado almost cost as much. Go figure.......

The Colorado may be a truck without a market.

I am new to this board and just read the first post in this thread. I just purchased another Z71, had a 2000, now have a 2005.

While shopping, I looked at the Colorado, wanted a 4x4, crew cab, Z71 package. It was only rated at 22mpg highway. Really poor for an in-line 5, 3.5 liter engine with V V T (variable valve timing).

The Z71 I purchased is a crew cab, 5.3 liter, 3.42 rear end and it is rated at 19mpg highway. Only 3 mpg worse than the Colorado.

Also, the Colorado almost cost as much. Go figure.......

The Colorado may be a truck without a market.


I agree that truck is cool but the gas and price cost are way off maybe gm made it so they can sell the silverado even more ????

What all engine could you get in the colorado

do they still make the 4.3

I am new to this board and just read the first post in this thread. While shopping, I looked at the Colorado, It was only rated at 22mpg highway. Really poor for an in-line 5, 3.5 liter engine with V V T (variable valve timing).

Also, the Colorado almost cost as much. Go figure.......

The Colorado may be a truck without a market.

Texan, I agree - at least for me - a Colorado didn't compute. Some people think of a Silverado as "big and cumbersome". They want something smaller and more nimble and they think of smaller as being "sportier". That is the market for Colorado buyers. To me - I get 22 on the highway now with my 6.0 liter 1/2 ton. True - my turning radius - at 46 feet - isn't the most "friendly feature" of the Silverado. But the cab space, comfort, hauling capacity, and crash standards all make it a much better size - even if it does take up a few more square feet when parked in the garage or parking lot :smile:

do they still make the 4.3Not for the Colorado. Theh offer a in-line 4, 2.8 liters (I think) and the in-line 5, 3.5 liters.

Not for the Colorado. Theh offer a in-line 4, 2.8 liters (I think) and the in-line 5, 3.5 liters.

Yep, If they'd put the damn 4.2L I-6 in it, I might have considered a Colorado. WTF is up with that anyway? Colorado is the most underpowered truck in its class... and the 4.2 would put it on or above par with everything else in its class. Not to mention, all the offer in the H3 is that I-5. WTF is wrong with the engineers in charge of engine choice for these vehicles? The Colorado and the H3 would have been sooo awesome if offered with the I-6. Hell, the I-6 is rated at 16/21 MPG, which is only 1 MPG less than the I-5, and GM cited fuel economy as the reason they went with the I-5 in the H3

New learning for me - about the sweet spot.

We all know all of our trucks have sweet spots - each a bit different than the other. Well over the last 2 days I really got a chance to test my truck's mileage potential.

2 identical long trips - all highway - several hundred miles per trip. First trip - I was late - driving at 68 mph - on cruise. 17.7 MPG was the result. Then same day - second trip - I was not late and I didn't have to hurry - so normal driving speed of 55 mph - on cruise. 21.6 MPG was the result. A 22% improvement under IDENTICAL conditions except for speed. By driving 55 (on cruise - no foot and accelerator issues) instead of 68 (on cruise - again, no foot or accelerator issues) - a 22% change. Obviously the RPM and axle/wheel combination at 55 is preferred over 68 for my truck.

ttt

So what were the rpm's turned at each different speed? What gears does your truck have and what tire diameter is it?

So what were the rpm's turned at each different speed? What gears does your truck have and what tire diameter is it?

RPM wise - at 55 mph I'm at about 1500 RPM and at 68 mph I'm about 1950 to 2000 rpm. Axle ratio is 3.73. I have 20 inch tires and wheels with a 6 liter v.h.o. V8 gas engine using premium gas. 4 speed automatic transmission.

ttt

During my trip I would get better mpg above 2000 rpm, 80 mph with stock diameter tires versus 1750 rpm, 70 mph with 3.42 gears, 5.3 nelson tuned. Go figure?????

During my trip I would get better mpg above 2000 rpm, 80 mph with stock diameter tires versus 1750 rpm, 70 mph with 3.42 gears, 5.3 nelson tuned. Go figure?????

Jethro, I would think after the last 3 weeks - you'd be tired of the truck seat by now :smile:

I've heard that some vehicles have "dual zones" where they run well - a lower zone with best performance (maybe like 50 to 60) - then an upper zone (maybe like 75 to 85) that isn't as good as the lower zone - but better than the in-between area. Did you get a chance to see how mileage was in the 50 to 60 range compared to the 80 range?

In this part of the country - we don't have any areas to run steady 80 like they do out West.

Also - did your Nelson Tune get optimized for a certain cruising range?

Welcome back to the work-a-day world. P.S. Say that truck of yours is getting some miles on it now - how many more trips before you start thinking about those 2wd SS options again :smile:

90k miles on it and I still love my toy :biggrin: . 50 mph was my dad in stop and go traffic in Yellowstone park, 20mpg :wtf: . That is correct, 20 mpg in stop for animals get to 50 and stop for the next animal.

Twin six year olds, 5K miles in 20 days, and off from the night of July 14th until the morning of Aug 8th! And yes all came back alive and sane, great kids no matter what good compliments others have to give :biggrin2: ... I would do it again once I get back to 180 hours of vacation by Dec '06. I must have a tumor to like driving that much :uhoh: .....

Slick 50 is poison for a engine. Thats why its been very low key now. What happened was some company tested it, and found out that the engine ran dry with the slick had terrible bearing damage. And the engine ran dry without and treatment, had only minor bearing damage. True story, I just remembered who did the test, it was briggs and straton. And slick was sued and lost. And then bought out by pennzoil.

Some 8 months ago I started this thread because I thought gas mileage was a significant issue to be discussed, learned, and shared with others. My original thought - was both saving money AND increasing the efficiency and performance of vehicles by proper maintenance and mileage-related thinking.

Some laughed - saying that a truck isn't about gas mileage - its a truck - and the difference in mileages just weren't a big issue - a little money - no big deal. I know, I know, - it wasn't a gear head or wrench type topic - not big time technical - some thought it was a "fly weight" type of issue. But happily - other posters turned my little idea into a bigger capability - a reference spot for many different ideas on gas mileage and the improving of truck vehicle efficiency.

Now its mid-August - and we all see the start of concerns and comments about gas prices being mentioned on many other parts of this forum. $50.00 U.S. no longer fills the Silverado gas tank in many parts of the country. Posters are making alterations to their driving amounts, distances, driving styles, and octane choices to compensate. Meanwhile - thanks to many other contributors - there are many ideas that don't have to be thought up now - they are already here - just a case of "read and heed". I personally have used several of the ideas mentioned here with good success.

Its become alot of responses and posts made by many. My opinion - don't give up the driving you love - but maybe, just maybe - each of us can be just a wee bit smarter by using other ideas mentioned here to counterbalance some of the impact that these higher gas prices have created. Lets hope more readers come here - bringing their ideas and thoughts too. We can all use any help we can get to keep our fuel costs lower and our vehicle efficiency higher.

Topics previously covered here included using Acetone, oil additives, fuel treatments, bed and other aerodynamic additions, air pressures and air filters, and many other maintenance or alternative actions to increase mileage and reduce operating cost while still enjoying the power and performance we all desire. Lets hope the next 8 months posters continue to see and add just as many new and additional ideas or input into existing ideas already mentioned. These next 8 months are sure to see it "at the pump" - we've got the motivation
:smile:

Well, My 01 ext cab 2wd silverado 5.3 got me 14.8MPG. this is a 3/4 city and 1/4 hwy use. I was hoping for more. The truck only has 39K on it. I have a truck tool box on back so a tonnaeu cover is not an option. Tires are tip top. Its GM certified, no problems.
I guess I will look into a FIPK maybe.
BTW, am I supposed to be using 89 octane? I just filled up with 93 Octane Super Unleaded at Exxon.
Could someone clear that up before I ruin something!!!

The higher octane won't hurt but it's not needed. Just stick with the cheap stuff.

The higher octane won't hurt but it's not needed. Just stick with the cheap stuff.

Ok thanks. WHat you think of my MPG? Is that bad for this truck? I averaged 14.8mpg. I dont drive too fast either. Maybe it need a little breaking in yet?

I'm no expert but for as much city driving as you say it's probably about right.

No matter how you slice it or dice it, the biggest fuel saving device is the driver. I've noticed a big differance between conservative and more aggressive driving. It amounts to about 1.5 to 2.5 mpg. Mutiply that times a 25 gallon tank and it makes a big differance. My recent performance changes have seemed to help. Recently I took my 20' travel trailer to Lake Tahoe. Going up the hill I got abou 10-11 mpg and comining back down about 12-13 mpg hauling about 5500 lbs. That's an impovement of about 1.5 to 2.0 mpg from before. I'm really satisfied about that as next Summer I'm planning a trip to Missouri, then Texas and back pulling the trailer (about 4 weeks of camping and traveling). We're starting to put the money aside now. Some of the performance and miledge tips I received on this borad lately have really helped a lot. For that I thanks everyone!!!
Since I have the Hypertech tuner now, I'm conducting a comparison between low and high octane with reprograming to see which is more effecient and cost effective. I'll report on it when I'm finished in about 3-4 weeks.

Well, My 01 ext cab 2wd silverado 5.3 got me 14.8MPG. this is a 3/4 city and 1/4 hwy use. I was hoping for more. The truck only has 39K on it. I have a truck tool box on back so a tonnaeu cover is not an option. Tires are tip top. Its GM certified, no problems.
I guess I will look into a FIPK maybe.
BTW, am I supposed to be using 89 octane? I just filled up with 93 Octane Super Unleaded at Exxon.
Could someone clear that up before I ruin something!!!

Hanibal, I think you can do better - but that is just my opinion. City driving numbers don't mean anything - because my city and your city may be the difference of 10 traffic jams versus none. The only way to know how your vehicle is doing - is by using highway driving measurements and calculations. Your vehicle is EPA mileage rated for about 16 city and 20 highway - so either you have a lead foot - or you are sitting in traffic jams alot or something needs attention in your vehicle. If you have a 2001 - I'd start with a new air filter (if you haven't changed yours in the last 12,000 miles) - and then I'd use some good quality fuel system cleaner (something that comes in a metal container - not plastic container. Then there are many things listed here on this thread as ideas. Normal m.p.g. expectations for your truck (a 2 wd) should be at or better than the EPA estimates. Just my opinion - a better m.p.g. means a smoother and more efficiently running vehicle - which means more power, longer life expectancy, and less wear and tear frustrations.

By the way - Premium gas won't harm your 5.3 - and could help improve power or gas mileage a little - it likely can't help a 4.3 or 4.8 engine. And - because you use good gas - doesn't mean you don't need to use a fuel treatment cleaner once in awhile. I use a plastic container type every 3 or 4 tank fuls - and a metal container type treatment at least once or twice every oil change (3500 to 4000 miles).

I have to agree with the fuel cleaner. I've started using some and that may be another part of why my truck's performance and effeciency is better. I like to bicycle and about a year ago I rode with someone with top shelf components, but his bike didn't shift worth a tinker's d@mn!!! He knew it wouldn't because they were cloggged with dirt and not been taken care of. Sometimes it's the simplest and cheapest things that can make it work right.

Ok Thanks white Lightening. I have had the truck for 1000 miles now. All required service was done to it before I bought (oil change, and the premium GM fluid service, lube, etc) SO I will keep up with all required maintenance from here on out. I am going to look for some fuel treatment because I just filled the tank and I can start the fuel system maintenance now.
Thanks for input. I will post any results I see from fuel additive. I am also going to consider an FIPK as budget permits. Right now, I am in the process of installing an Alpine system, so my allowance is kinda low :)

Ok Thanks white Lightening. I have had the truck for 1000 miles now. All required service was done to it before I bought (oil change, and the premium GM fluid service, lube, etc) SO I will keep up with all required maintenance from here on out. I am going to look for some fuel treatment because I just filled the tank and I can start the fuel system maintenance now.
Thanks for input. I will post any results I see from fuel additive. I am also going to consider an FIPK as budget permits. Right now, I am in the process of installing an Alpine system, so my allowance is kinda low :)

Well - the fact they did the fluids - doesn't mean they did the air filter. And if your air filter is quite dirty - you're mileage will be negatively affected. You could get a regular air filter for $12.50 or a FRAM Air HOG (lifetime performance filter) for about $45.00. If your air filter is dirty - putting in a clean one would give you more power and greater m.p.g.. Hope your allowance grows :smile:

Well - the fact they did the fluids - doesn't mean they did the air filter. And if your air filter is quite dirty - you're mileage will be negatively affected. You could get a regular air filter for $12.50 or a FRAM Air HOG (lifetime performance filter) for about $45.00. If your air filter is dirty - putting in a clean one would give you more power and greater m.p.g.. Hope your allowance grows :smile:

I was thinkking the same thing. I am going to look at air filter tomorrow. I will be doing an amp install weather permitting (109F :eek7: ) tomorrow so It may be a good time.

Don't clean the Air Filter...get one of these!!! (Click below)

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=46813&password=&sort=1&cat=500

Don't clean the Air Filter...get one of these!!! (Click below)

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=46813&password=&sort=1&cat=500

Hey Bones, Is that a cold air thing I am hearing about? I looked on ebay and there were a lot of them. WHich one do you have GENI GENII or GENIII? I think there are some different types of these and I wasnt sure which one. There was one that had power for upper band, but I dont need that.
Thanks for the info!!

That's the K&N FIPK (fuel injection performance kit) Gen II. For the 5.3 (2002) they retail about $250-$270. I got mine on eBay for about $205 delivered (sealed in the box from the factory. It took about 40 min. to install with minimal tools..EZ to do. I was really impressed with the extra kick it gave (especially if you have dual exhaust). It also allows you to keep your stock air mass flow indicator and is street legal. If you go to the K&N site, you can do a vehicle search to get the right kit. I was really impressed when I towed my travel trailer the first time after getting it. Good stuff!!!

I was thinkking the same thing. I am going to look at air filter tomorrow. I will be doing an amp install weather permitting (109F :eek7: ) tomorrow so It may be a good time.

Many posters talk about the K&N filter and the FIPK performance kit to go with it. But you need a big allowance to use that system (performance kit and filter runs about $250 or more.).

Though I don't use FRAM oil filters - I do think their new Air Hog air filter is very competitive to the K & N system - and it costs only about $45.00 for a lifetime filter that adds performance, economy, with safety of good filtration. It doesn't have or offer a FIPK - but then I wanted improvement - not race level benefits. The link explains the product. First introduced and produced in early 2004 - this is Fram's new technology - not past technology. And it is designed for 250,000 miles of use - where K & N recommends theirs for 150,000 miles.

http://www.framairhog.com/

.

Does the FIPK kit come with a K&N filter or is that a seperate part?

Before I installed the FIPK, I had a K&N Air Filter with the stock intake box. That did help, but replacing the entire box with the FIPK was even much more significant. I discovered why after removing the stock intake. The air flow is much more restricted with the standard box. No filter, Air Hog or K&N (and I put more trust in the K&N filter whcih cost about the same as the Air Hog) can compensate completely for that restriction. I really believe the full FIPK system is worth it if you can swing it. It's cheapest on eBay, but if you do enough research on the net, you may find a decent deal there as well. The FIPK comes with the air filter you'll need for that system.
Also, if you replace your stock T-stat with a 160 degree T-stat, that'll help as well keep the temp down and is much cheaper than replacing the fan. You may need to check with a more specialized performance store to find the T-stat. At least here in Sacramento, Kragen, ETC didn't carry them. I had to go to a place called Tognotti's which was more specialized. Mt truck runs 30-40 degrees cooler with the new stat. Good for the engine and performance. Also be aware the t_stat may cost $30 or more. In my '02 with the 5.3, you have to replace the housing along with the stat as both are one.

This article seems to show that putting in a 160 degree thermostat is not a good idea and can increase wear on the engine.

http://www.speedomotive.com/cooling%20hints.htm

Yeah, I just saw that. I may have to think about going back the other way, but I'll do more research until then. The thing is, I'm still running at about 190 degrees with the stat. Time to meditate!!!! Oooommmm!

My truck came wth 4.10 rearend. Once I get about 60 mph my mpg start to drop. at 80 mph I've dropped aboutr +2 mpg. Lightning you said you don't run a Hog filter. I considered buying one, but what filter do you have?

Before I bought the K&N ilter for my '05 Malibu (the Superado has had one since the start) I went to three different auto parts stores and compared the K&N to the Air Hog. Both were priced about the same and work about the same. All three felt the K&N was probably a better quality (I sometimes have a hard time trusting Fram). You can get a good deal shopping around on the net or even maybe score a new one on eBay for about $15-$20 less.

Yeah, I've never known anyone who knew cars that had anything good to say about Fram

Many posters talk about the K&N filter and the FIPK performance kit to go with it. But you need a big allowance to use that system (performance kit and filter runs about $250 or more.).

Though I don't use FRAM oil filters - I do think their new Air Hog air filter is very competitive to the K & N system - and it costs only about $45.00 for a lifetime filter that adds performance, economy, with safety of good filtration. It doesn't have or offer a FIPK - but then I wanted improvement - not race level benefits. The link explains the product. First introduced and produced in early 2004 - this is Fram's new technology - not past technology. And it is designed for 250,000 miles of use - where K & N recommends theirs for 150,000 miles.

http://www.framairhog.com/

.

my k&n has a million mile warranty never heard of the whole 150,000

Yeah, I just saw that. I may have to think about going back the other way, but I'll do more research until then. The thing is, I'm still running at about 190 degrees with the stat. Time to meditate!!!! Oooommmm!
:1:

Well - the news for Labor Day weekend and the week following it doesn't look too bright for us drivers.

Commodity prices on gasoline (not crude oil) currently are looking to be in the $2.65 to to $2.70 range. Based on middle man and end location prices (even at minimum markup state mandated levels) - we could be seeing about a 50 cent price rise in the next few days to a week.

Time to re-read the posts here I guess - crude oil stocks are high - but gasoline stocks are low - and it doesn't appear they will increase stock and reduce price much for some time to come.

Get ready - its coming. But the good news - most of us will only be paying higher prices for gasoline and natural gas for our homes and businesses - those in Lousisianna and Mississippi and Alabama are going to be paying and paying and paying - money, lost possessions and homes - and then there will be the price gouging and looters. For many home owners insurance won't pay or cover flood damage. An entire metroplitan area is underwater and temperatures are 90 degrees and humidity in the upper 80s and 90s. No water, no power for weeks, no gasoline, and few law enforcement and many looters in the 3 to 12 foot deep waters.

I guess if gas prices are $3.25 or $3.50 - I can live with that gladly - compared to what others have to deal with in those states for months to come.

Keep the foot light on the gas - and a smile on your face - we're lucky. Maybe we can send a little of our luck to them :smile:

You know what man, it's all a matter of perspective. After living in Japan for 2 years and visiting Korea, I don't have a problem riding this out. I have a Great wife, a nice house, a very secure job and a really b!+chen truck...What else could a man ask for!!!! :lol: :cwm27: :lol2:

I know I posted this graphic in another topic, but I feel like it actually belongs here. Here is a chart of my before and after MPG pertaining to installing a Nelson tune. You can see that my gains are not a fluke, but are quite consistant. Looks to be about a ~1.2 MPG increase with the tune. That doesn't sound like much, but your wallet will notice!
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a5/BlenderWizard/83105MPG.jpg

I dunno, why am I only getting ~14 MPG, which is a +1.2 MPG gain after the tune? What am I doing wrong? My truck is a 5.3, FYI. I actually just sent these numbers to Allen, and, while happy with the increase in MPG (He told me to expect a 1-3 MPG increase with the tune, and I definitely got that) since he tuned it, he says we need to do more to help my MPG. I installed the 160º t-stat in mid July, and you can see it did nothing bad for my MPG (or good for that matter), of course that is not why I installed it. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

I dunno, why am I only getting ~14 MPG, which is a +1.2 MPG gain after the tune? What am I doing wrong? My truck is a 5.3, FYI. I actually just sent these numbers to Allen, and, while happy with the increase in MPG (He told me to expect a 1-3 MPG increase with the tune, and I definitely got that) since he tuned it, he says we need to do more to help my MPG. I installed the 160º t-stat in mid July, and you can see it did nothing bad for my MPG (or good for that matter), of course that is not why I installed it. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Greetings Blender,

As I recall - you have a 2wd right? If so - 14 mpg sounds "below expectations" to me. Even factory epa says it should be about 16 city and 19 highway if I am not mistaken. Then factor in you have a tune etc..

1. Do you do alot of idling or are you sitting in traffic jams a great deal?
2. Do you do all or almost all city driving? If so - you may have dirty injectors which need a quality fuel cleaner treatment (or two).

3. How many miles on your truck? Air cleaner filter?

4. Have you tested your mileage in an all highway trip of a few hundred miles? City driving has many variables - but highway driving at 55 or 60 mph (use cruise if possible) has considerably less variables. A 2wd 5.3 (depending on axle ratio) should expect 19 to 20 mpg at the above mentioned speed (that is how EPA tests are done) and if not heavy loaded or trailering anything. And you have a tune besides - the numbers I'm writing are for stock 2wd trucks with 5.3.

If your highway driving is getting 19 or 20 - then it would seem its your driving style or driving location that is the cause.

Just my amateur opinion.

White Lightening

I do about 90% of my driving in the city, not much in traffic. The truck is a 2wd that I have had for about 6 months and I did about 3 or 4 treatments with Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner right off the bat when I got it at the end of March. It has almost 33,000 miles on it. I did a lot of driving on the highway in April, but that was right after I got it, and I don't have any records as far as fuel consumption. Is there a better injector cleaner I could use?

I've had good results with either Slick 50 or Duralube fuel system cleaner.

By chance - you aren't using an E-85 type fuel or something like that?

I ask this because if you have good power - and if your tune is working right - I would think you would be doing a fair amount better on the MPG. So I'm trying to think of things that could drop your mpg yet still give you normal power. "Drag" things like brakes slightly dragging or bearings/wheels etc. slightly dragging or something that would be holding you back - I would think you would notice power decreaes - not increase.

I'm assuming you aren't a heavy foot. If you are - then your MPG is how it goes. I don't know that there are many advancements between your vehicle compared to mine. I have a bigger engine (6.0) with 2wd and the same ext. cab in my 2004. I'm not a heavy foot - and my in town is probably 16 to 17 and my highway at 60 is just about 22 (with Tonneau). But remember - I don't have a Nelson tune yet either.

White Lightening

I think the lead foot is probably it; everyone tells me I should "lighten up" on the pedal. it's not my fault - it's the first v-8 I've had in 10 years. I'll see about the dura lube. I'm going to try another lucas treatment first (I bought a large bottle of it).

Well I am just about to finish my third tank of gas in my 01 silverado LS 2wd ext cab (5.3). Here are the results thus far:

1st tank: 93 octane, 14.5 MPG Range: 338 Miles

2nd tank: 93 octane, 13.7 MPG :22yikes: Range 310

3rd tank: 87 Octane, Currently have 389 Miles on tank after adding 25 Oz. (almost 2 15 oz metal cans) of Berryman's B-12 cleaner. That makes my current MPG estimated at 16.5 MPG.

My fuel gauge reads about 1/8th tank (low fuel light came on quite early IMHO). I am going to drive the tank down lower, then fill up and use another treatment of the berrymans b12 cleaner. I may try the sea-foam cans (it costs more and is in a metal can). I will post my final MPG after I fill up again tomorrow.

This is a bone stock motor with no mods, 5.3L V8, and 3.73 rear end, stock size tires and wheels.

In my 2000 silverado i use two bottles of chevron techron everytime i change the oil and i get about 17.5 - 19 mpg. I think a key factor could be the 10w-30 mobil1 oil.

real curious about putting 2004-2005 taillights on my 2000, anyone have any ideas???

real curious about putting 2004-2005 taillights on my 2000, anyone have any ideas???

JEverett's done it. I think he said something about changing out the wire harness in the bed to the taillights to make it work just right.

In my 2000 silverado i use two bottles of chevron techron everytime i change the oil and i get about 17.5 - 19 mpg. I think a key factor could be the 10w-30 mobil1 oil.

real curious about putting 2004-2005 taillights on my 2000, anyone have any ideas???

Is that "synthetic" mobil1 you use? I havent changed my oil yet, but its coming soon.

JEverett's done it. I think he said something about changing out the wire harness in the bed to the taillights to make it work just right.

do you or JEverett know where i can get that wire harness that i need because i just found the lenses.

Is that "synthetic" mobil1 you use? I havent changed my oil yet, but its coming soon.

yes that is the full synthetic mobil1 10w-30 its cheaper at wal-mart if you buy the gallon jug plus an extra quart

I use Mobil 1 5/30 and get mine at Costco for $24 for 6 quarts.

I use Mobil 1 5/30 and get mine at Costco for $24 for 6 quarts.

no costco local here


anyone tried the tornado thing that goes in the air intake tube? can buy at auto-zone

no costco local here


anyone tried the tornado thing that goes in the air intake tube? can buy at auto-zone

Hey man, http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=451520

Hey man, http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=451520

thanks man

anyone tried the tornado thing that goes in the air intake tube? can buy at auto-zone

Here's what I posted about my experience:
"Failed efforts? I tried the Tornado. Interesting concept - but actually reduced my MPG instead of improving it. Who knows - maybe the Vortec engines have it already designed in as stock :-) "

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=335161&page=1&pp=1

I increased my tank range by almost 25% by using Berryman's B-12 additive. My low fuel light is coming on so I will have an exact MPG calculation this afternoon. Mind you, that I was getting 13-14 on a 2wd 5.3 ext cab. SO It was apparent that a injector cleaner was in order. :) I hope it stays that good. I really need to be in the 16-18 MPG range.

I increased my tank range by almost 25% by using Berryman's B-12 additive. My low fuel light is coming on so I will have an exact MPG calculation this afternoon. Mind you, that I was getting 13-14 on a 2wd 5.3 ext cab. SO It was apparent that a injector cleaner was in order. :) I hope it stays that good. I really need to be in the 16-18 MPG range.

I would think that once your injectors are cleaned - you could reduce your use of the additives - maybe using them just once every 1000/1500 miles or so.

White Lightening

From what was said earlier, Berryman's has Acetone in it. I'm currently trying 100% pure Acetone at the rate of 3 oz/10 Gal. So far on my first tank, my OD shows 140 miles were I normally show 110-120 miles. One thing about the straight Acetone is that I bought a gal which means I can treat a tank of gas for about $.87 at the rate of 8 oz/tankfull. :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16: :icon16:

B-12 chemtool contains: Toluene, Methanol, Acetone, Mixed Xylenes, Methyl Ethyl Ketone,
2-Butoxyethanol and Isopropanol

I got 15mpg on my 2000 5.3 k1500 until I replaced the muffler with a Borla turbo. The mpg jumped to 17.

Things are looking up :smile:

Gas prices are dropping and miles per gallon is increasing. :smile:

White Lightening

Amen Brothers and Sisters, keep those nickles, dimes and quarters coming in!!! Gas has gone down in some stations as much as $.08 over the past week. Let me see now...Hmmm... that's 2 bucks a fill-up.

I just left a supplier here in south tx and Copper wire has almost tripled in 3 years beginning with war in Iraq!! It has jumped another 30% since Katrina. I scrapped about 175lbs of #1 copper last year (when it was supposed to be at a peak) for over $1 per Pound!!! Electricians were like
"CHA-CHING!" I bet it is at $1.50 now!! (and I have no copper to scrap :(
I try to explain to customers and they go off on the economy while they write me a check :)!!

Oops, btw I am glad gas is coming down too!!!

I just left a supplier here in south tx and Copper wire has almost tripled in 3 years beginning with war in Iraq!! It has jumped another 30% since Katrina. I scrapped about 175lbs of #1 copper last year (when it was supposed to be at a peak) for over $1 per Pound!!! Electricians were like
"CHA-CHING!" I bet it is at $1.50 now!! (and I have no copper to scrap :(
I try to explain to customers and they go off on the economy while they write me a check :)!!

Oops, btw I am glad gas is coming down too!!!

Greetings Hannibal,

Copper prices have not increased because of IRAQ - they've increased because of China. China entered the World Trade Organization in 2004 and began heavy imports of all metals and energy as of late 2002 and 2003. Silver is up from $4.50 in mid 2003 to 7.15 now. Copper was 85 cents in mid 2003 and now is $1.65 or more. Gold is now $467 and in mid 2003 it was $350.00. Consumption and manufacturing are at an all-time high for world volumes. Thats why China was trying to buy Unocal - they import piles of natural resources of all types and kinds. Too bad you sold copper when you did - most I know were buyin gitat that time in a big way.

White Lightening

Well, I ran a tank of Berryman B-12 ChemTool. Fortunately, I was not doing it to gain mpg, but, judging by the chemical makeup of it, it looked like a good injector cleaner. I feel relatively sure that my injectors are, in fact, clean, but I saw a gain of ZERO MPG while using it. Just thought I'd report back

Greetings Hannibal,

Copper prices have not increased because of IRAQ - they've increased because of China. China entered the World Trade Organization in 2004 and began heavy imports of all metals and energy as of late 2002 and 2003. Silver is up from $4.50 in mid 2003 to 7.15 now. Copper was 85 cents in mid 2003 and now is $1.65 or more. Gold is now $467 and in mid 2003 it was $350.00. Consumption and manufacturing are at an all-time high for world volumes. Thats why China was trying to buy Unocal - they import piles of natural resources of all types and kinds. Too bad you sold copper when you did - most I know were buyin gitat that time in a big way.

White Lightening

The week they invaded Baghdad, a roll of 12/2 NMSE went from $17.49 to $33.00. It just jumped to $45 The week of Katrina. It's all about supply and demand I guess :dunno:

The week they invaded Baghdad, a roll of 12/2 NMSE went from $17.49 to $33.00. It just jumped to $45 The week of Katrina. It's all about supply and demand I guess :dunno:

What do you mean you guess????? you know !!! the law is the law no matter how "out of this world" it is

Im just happy to say my gas prices here in Hawaii have gone down 30 cents since this weekend :grinno: . Hoping to see some more decreases, I ran some injector cleaner in my truck to see if its going to make a difference, but as of lately its takin me a long time to get through a tank of gas. And after the 1st of next month i'll be hopefully running some AC Delco Iridiums, instead of my bosch platinum +4s. As per your suggestions on the other post. and hopefully we'll see some difference.

Get ready. Its September 22nd and if Rita hits the Gulf in 36 hours as direction shows - gas prices will rise substantially. We're talking 75 cents to a $1 a gallon across the board in as short a period as a week or less on a national basis (this will be different than Katrina if Rita hits Texas as currently projected).

Maybe Rita will miss the refineries - and that would be really good - but all the crude in the world doesn't do us any good without the refineries. Should the refineries get hit (25% of all refinery activity in the entire country is there) each of us can still enjoy our trucks - but it further means a focus on fuel mileage and miles per gallon improvements.

When I first started this thread 10 months ago, gas prices were up to $1.65 in my area. Now they are DOWN to $2.65. A week from now - who knows. I hope you all take the same attitude that I have:

1. I love my truck and I'm going to keep driving it
2. I'm going to use my truck
3. I'm going to be reasonable and use the common sense I should have been born with
4. I'm not going to hurt my truck to save a few bucks - but I'm not going to be wasteful either. :smile:

Many of the ideas others have offered in these pages - has helped put money in my pocket - the list of posts is long and gettting longer. I think that reading or re-reading many of those posts on this thread can save you money. Because it is many pages - means its more likely something on those pages can benefit what you are currently doing.

In addition - I've linked below a couple other threads that also talk about some ideas. If gas is $2, or $3, or $4 - I'm still going to use my Chevy truck - maybe just a little differently depending on price.

Keep the foot light and enjoy the ride :smile: :smile: :smile:

Here are those other links too:


Other Mileage improvements
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=456090

Gas treatments and additives
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=453382

Gizmos to save gas
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=451520

Lets hope a week from now - this post looks like the concern never happened and it was overreaction to the news - and gas prices still sit at $2.65.

I guess i got excited too quick, If things go like everyone is predicting my gas prices are going to be outrageous. We are generally 10-15 cents higher than the mainland with the exception of parts of Cali. My driving habits have definatly changed since the gas prices have been going sky high. I dont drive the truck as much and I dont drive it far by any means. If I can avoid taking the truck over the mountain to the other side of the island I do. I have been driving the wifes car alot more to hopefully save a little bit of money. Her car averages 22 MPG give or take. Im just hoping the two storms coming at us dont hit, but if they do its like a double whammy for me. Our prices get higher just because im here and if we got hit with a bad enough storm, I dont know what gas prices would do. :disappoin . I must say though if we do start getting bad weather from all of this the new car will definatly be parked in the garage. The truck is better suited for the task.

Fix dragging brakes.

Before I redid my front brakes, I noticed that the front wheels were always hot, in fact, almost too hot to touch after an easy drive with very little brake use. This is one of the reasons I did the brakes.

I noticed that the rotors were quite hard to turn due to dragging brakes due to not being lubed on the sliders and hanging up. Now, how much horsepower does it take to turn four wheels at several hundred or 1000 RPM with dragging brakes. Heat is expensive to generate because it takes a lot of energy. Have you ever seen a heater run off a battery?

Not sure how much it affected my mileage but it can't hurt to have this fixed.

White... your links didn't work; the link that came up in the browser still had the ... right in the middle of it

Fix dragging brakes.

Before I redid my front brakes, I noticed that the front wheels were always hot, in fact, almost too hot to touch after an easy drive with very little brake use. This is one of the reasons I did the brakes.

I noticed that the rotors were quite hard to turn due to dragging brakes due to not being lubed on the sliders and hanging up. Now, how much horsepower does it take to turn four wheels at several hundred or 1000 RPM with dragging brakes. Heat is expensive to generate because it takes a lot of energy. Have you ever seen a heater run off a battery?

Not sure how much it affected my mileage but it can't hurt to have this fixed.

Yikes BCMaxima - are you lucky. People have been known to burn up their vehicles with brakes dragging (or parking brake on). The heat gets hot enough to start the tires on fire - and once that happens - it is difficult to get the fire put out quickly enough. My wife's car developed an episode where the parking brake didn't fully release. Drove only 8 miles like that. Wheels were so hot I couldn't throw cold water on them - I had to use hot water - the steam would have burned me or fractured the wheels. This is nothing to play with - the heat levels can become very dangerous very quickly.

White Lightening

White... your links didn't work; the link that came up in the browser still had the ... right in the middle of it

Thanks for mentioning it Blender. here they are again - but corrected


Other Mileage improvements
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=456090

Gas treatments and additives
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=453382

Gizmos to save gas
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=451520

White Lightening

dad blast it!

I have:

1992
Extended Cab
454
3/4 ton
Towing Package

I get 14-15mpg

I love this truck, I take care of it. Its been one of the best trucks I have had.

I had 127,000 miles on the first set of General Tires (factory)

92,000 on the 2nd Set.

I have 287,000 miles on the truck at this time. Looks good as new :)

www.Lotto-Pro.com

What about changing the computer chip to get better gas milage?

How about not buying a Pick-Up truck. I mean if you want better gas mileage, buy a Toyota Prius. I'm so sick of people complaining, it's a full-size truck, what do you expect, I bet at least 50 % of you people don't even need a truck. Just my two cents.


http://tinypic.com/ay7o5c