I have access to a bender and a welder as well as the equipment to make the flanges and was wondering if this would handle the heat of the exhaust and the extra heat thats gonne be radiating form the turbo with no problem.

was just gonna cut a flange and keep bolting it to the head and test fitting it til its port matched, then cutting/bending exhaust pipe, 1-3/4 maybe, and weld it together having all 4 collect into another custom flange to fit my IHI turbo, and then cut a flange again for the downpipe and use 3" piping and run it ot the cat, drill a hole in the top and weld in a nut for the O2 sensor to bolt into. no need for a wastegate as my IHI has an internal wastegate already.

and I am gonna bend my charge pipes so if exhaust pipe is acceptable for all this I will be able to do this really cheap.
and I am gonna just get a used FMIC and then a new FMU and BOV off ebay and some other stuff but my main concern is if the exxhaust pipe can handle the heat?


Im sure its gonna discolor but will anything else happen.

pipe is pipe. Exhaust gases aren't going to change temp much from your manifold to your muffler and it's all the same type of pipe pretty much.

alright I figured that but I have heard that turbos get so hot that at night they may glow red...

sao I figured that is some SERIOUS heat and wasnt sure what would happen with red hot metal right up against exhaust pipe.

hopefully pretty soon I can start rebuilding my ZC and find an old civic for cheap.

I dont wanna boost any of my B series right now since ones not finished but will be about 11.3:1 static

one has 176k on it and the other has around 135k on it and the trannys case is cracked.

getting the manifold and downpipe ceramic coated isn't a bad idea.

using steel? you sure you can make the runner lengths pretty much equal? good welds? i dont think the heat is going to be the problem. i think it will contribute to a cracking manifold if the welds are not done good. i think your best bet in making this work is to custom a bracket to support the turbo, so less stress will be on the manifold. the thickest steel piping you can find will be a good help too.

please post results :)

oh the bending I am sure I can do and get them to sit where they need to be and get them equal. and for the weld, I am gonna have the muffler shop guy sitting therre watching my first few welds to make sure Im doing it good, and he is a good welder, has been doing it since we went to his dads shop back in the 6th grade. and weve been out of school for a few years so its been a while and he knows what hes doing.

I would worry about the cracking as well... remember to tack the seams at 1 inch intervals and then tack the seams.. better yet... Tig it.. you can actually buy the manifold flange for the engine, and the turbo mount. or machine your own flange. I suggest getting a thicker than stock flange for the engine flange. Also I would suggest new gaskets for flange as well.. they're cheap.. as for the pipe I would get a high temp steel alloy... coating the pipes with a ceramic is not really that great of an idea.. bet bet is to get insulating heat tape.. the object of having ceramic coating is to keep engine bay temps down has nothing to do with keeping the turbo cool.. that's what the oil lines are for in the turbo. yeah remember you have to weld a bung into the oilpan.. and tap into the oil pump feed lines.

well, I know all that, and actually my yturbo I got is water and oil cooled, at leasat I am almost positive about that, has a total of 3 banjo fittings and one regular nipple, I was told two are for oil(obviously) and two others are for water.

and the oil pan return nipple is peice of cake, the oil lines I will T off the oil pressure sender just like if I was gonna do a vtec head swap.

also if I did the head swap and the turbo can a B20 or B18(mayge the same but I dont know) oil pump handle both???

it probably can, but I would look into getting stronger oil pump cogs.. and look at the stock oil pump specs..