92 Park Ave. No Start
12-08-2004, 05:21 PM
I have a 92 park avenue and it will not start.The fuses all have voltage,and it has proper fuel pressure.from what i can tell the ignition module has voltage,as well as the computer .With the key in the on position,all electronic components having to do with dashboard accessories,and exterior lights all work.When you switch it to start the voltage never reaches the solenoid.If i put the ignition switch into on position,and jump the solenoid with a screwdriver,the starter spins and the engine starts,but dies immediatly.This was a great running car until this problem developed.What the heck is the matter with this thing?
12-08-2004, 05:24 PM
it has the security key setup on it.i was thinking its fault may be in the security system.
12-08-2004, 09:47 PM
12-08-2004, 09:52 PM
see thats whats wierd about mine the fuel pump,ecm,and computer all are getting power.
12-08-2004, 09:59 PM
thanks for the input.300 bucks tho whohoo.thats probably what i would charge if i could charge for this headache.Its already had wiring problems.Im about to just replace the entire steering column,and see how it likes that
12-08-2004, 10:00 PM
maybe it can be bypassed with a switch.im not hard to please
12-09-2004, 03:09 PM
Did you try a different Key. These keys have the resistors in them. If they short or fall out then the car won't start. Also I wouldn't put it past the security system.
12-09-2004, 11:27 PM
hotrod there is a thread here in the forum on how to bypass the security, I looked at the old key cylinder today at the shop. you can measure the resistance on the chip on the key then find two very then white wires running from the ignition down through the steering column. go to radio shack and get a resistor that is the same ohms resistance as the one on your key and splice it between the two wires down by the firewall. It will fake the security relay into thinking it is the resitor on the key. I tried to tell my mechanic that before all this crap but he thought he knew more than me. just read the security threads here in the forum and learn more. I would have done this myself but the car was broke down in the next town over and it was raining cats and dogs when the car broke down right next to this guys shop. we live and learn
12-10-2004, 03:37 PM
dant 2003 is correct in the fact that you can put a resistor in the vats connector to bypass it. I am a mechanic and while we don't do it that way and we fix it right I have done it to my own car.
12-10-2004, 03:45 PM
the dealership said the key was bad and gave me another one.could they have messed up making it?how can they tell what the key is suposed to do,if it isnt working right to begin with>
12-12-2004, 04:39 PM
okay so on the plug under the column,i found two little white wires,and they run right next to each other on the plug,and they run up into the center column.im getting voltage from one of the wires but not the other.they little white wires are smaller in diameter than the others on the same plug.,so thats how i identified them.If i start talking this thing apart,is the air bag going to b*tch slap me?
12-22-2004, 09:30 AM
I had the same problem and found out that the crank sensor was bad. It didn't show up on the computer readout but an astute mechanic suggested I try replacing it. I replaced the crank sensor and it started immediately.
12-28-2004, 10:45 AM
It was in the ignition.One of those two little wires got cut in half,due to bad routing.Chevy was total dummies for routing the wires against sharp moving objects...Some say a picture is worth a thousand words,well this one is worth 90 dollars,cause thats what it costs to fix.It Runs great again,for a buick with 250k on the odo.I thank those who took the time to reply.http://images5.theimagehosting.com/vats2.jpg
12-28-2004, 10:48 AM
Sombody had routed alternate power to the fuel pump and ecm due to a bad relay,wich confused my diagnistics.i wasnt sure it was the vats,cause it still had fuel pressure,and power to the ignition mod.
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