I also have a problem with my left blinker and my break lights. My right blinker works just fine, but my left blinker and break lights will not come on unless I pull the blinker switch forward a bit- as if I'm going to turn my brights on. Is it a short in the stearing column, or is it a problem less expensive to fix?

you need a new turn signal switch. It's a fairly common problem on Luminas. Make sure you tell your parts store whether your car has steering wheel controls for the radio & cruise.

Thanks for your reply. I talked to my mechanic about the problem, and he says he thinks it may be a short because the blinker still works if it's rigged a little. But he also says he's not too sure because he's not a pro on new Chevy's. Everyone I've talked to can't figure out what it is. If the problem can be fixed with a new blinker switch, can I install it myself, or is it one of those parts that will have to be dealt with by a pro?

I've had my 96 lumina since this past summer so I'm not an expert on these cars either, but I had a similar problem with mine and a new turn signal switch fixed the problem.

My brake lights would work intermittently as with my turn signals. Sometimes messing with the hazard switch would change it, and sometimes the blinker lights would even work reversed (left = right blinker and vice versa). My third brake light always worked though.

The switch was about $40 at autozone (w/o wheel controls) and I changed it myself. It was a bit of a pain b/c I didn't have all the right tools. You will need a steering wheel puller, a snap ring tool and there was one more tool, but I don't remember what it is called (the one I didn't have). It's very similar to a steering wheel puller. Total cost of the tools is probably about $30. You should get a haynes manual if you don't already have one, it will guide you right through it.

It took me about 90 minutes to complete the procedure, but if you have all of the tools, it should only take about 60 minutes.

Hope that helps!

I swear the guys at Auto Zone think girls are total idiots! I went in to see about getting a new turn signal switch. The guy told me the switch is about $120 and there is no way I can do it myself. He said all together, it's going to cost me about $400 for parts and labor! :eek2:
I think I'm going to go to O'Reilley and see if I can get better assistance. I'm getting a little frustrated with this whole fixin my car thing. :swear:

Thanks again!

Hi ya
Just had the same trouble with my 96 Lumina.The switch cost $65. with tax and I bought a Haynes manual to guide me through.Got them both at auto zone. C.A.P wanted $120 bucks for the same switch .Some auto parts places confuse radio control with cruise control.Cruise control runs through a seperate circuit.So cruise or not takes the same cheaper switch.Radio control you must buy the more expensive switch.The manual tells you which tools you will need and you can rent them through some auto supply stores.The lock plate removal and wheel puller are a must for the job as are torx bits.

I am not an auto mechanic but I didn't find the job hard just tedious.I found the plugs a little frustrating to unplug mostly because my body and hands don't flex like they used to.To remove the plug for the switch you must first remove the small 5/32 bolt in the center of the pack and seperate it.

I know it's a little late reply for you Rachel but this may help someone else

The only issue with doing this yourself, is the air bag. Even with the fuse removed and the battery disconnected, there is a small chance that built up static electricity could set off the air bag. That small chance, if it happens, can cause severe personal injury if the air bag goes off.

Hey thanks richtazz.I should have said something about that.As I have said,I'm not an auto machanic, but I have dabbled in electronics.After reading the warnings in the haynes manual and using logic,I wore a ground strap while handeling the airbag.I was working in a heated dry environment with cloth seats.Prime for static.I grounded to the house ground and not the car.

For those of you that don't know,a ground strap is a device used by electronics people to take that static snap out of your body.That annoying snap ranks into 1000s of volts, believe it or not,and can toast electronic components in your system .Not through your car obviously but when you handle the individual components.Or set off that air bag.Even if ya don't get hurt physically it will hurt your wallet.

Eddie, and Rich, thanks. I was wondering about this job and you guys covered it perfectly. Like the advice about ground strap, Eddie I'll keep that in mind.
Thanks again!

For any one else who has this problem:

Options: Have dealer replace switch $300 or more.
Do it your self ... switch costs $70 to over $100, need a steering wheel puller, have to pull the air bag, yada yada yada

Fix it your self with less than $10 worth of parts: Go to a junk yard and get a light pigtail from most any GM product about the same year. I got several and was charged $1 each. Pull your tail light. Look just inside of the original light and there is a "V" that is wide enough and has the clearance for your new pigtail. Take one of the pigtails you just got and using a dremel tool, cut off the "tangs". Use this as a guide to make the whole for it (about 1" if I remember). Once you have the hole about the right size, use your dremel tool to make the holes for the "tangs". Put a screw in the rear of the trunk where the light attaches and ground the new pigtail. Run a wire from the third brake light to each new pigtail and ... you're done ... FOR EVER. From the rear, it looks like exactly like the original set up.
I can provide more detailed instructions and can provide pictures if anyone wants, just email me.

Sounds like a major danger signal to me.When a switch is bad ,it's bad!!!!!!!!!!NO TYPE OF PIGTAIL WILL FIX IT PERIOD!!!!!!!!!!!If you wish to keep the car,fix the switch.Cobbjobs always fail unless your an expert and this sight is not for experts.

I can see where the jumper idea would be an interim fix, but doesn't address the turn signals not working, and it seems it would cause the 3rd brakelight to flash with the signals, which I have seen on a few cars, and suspected that's what they did....

Anyway, you'd be running 3x the current off the hot side of the 3rd light's supply...probably not enough to set it on fire, but warm enough to melt insulation and cause a short that COULD cause a fire or worse electrical problems...not sure I could be comfortable with it as a permanent repair...

Wow, just trying to help those cure their problem temporarily, never thought it'd generate all this.

If this were a classic or something, I guess I'd feel the same way. But a $70 or more switch not counting the special tools required is a lot.

In my case, the turn signals are working fine. My main brake lights were not. I can see when my turn signals aren't working by watching the blinker, but I can't see that my brake lights weren't working. After almost getting rear-ended a couple times, I knew I needed to fix the brake light problem.

As far as the third brake light "blinking", it's impossible. The third brake light is wired directly to the brake light switch, the main lights are wired through the turn signal switch. As for overheating the wiring, the third brake light had 16 gauge wire going to it, virtually the same as that going to the regular brake lights. If it were going to overheat, they wouldn't have used it for the regular brake lights. The car that I removed the pigtails from had 3 lights wired using the same gauge wire. I don't see that as a problem what so ever. But, it is a cause to consider ... I'll keep an eye on it.

I have had a similar problem with my 96 lumina 3.1L. The main brake lights don't work if I push on the brakes, but the running lights work as well as the turn signals. I don't know if the turn signals work all the time or not, but they did when I checked them last night.

I just wanted to make sure this was also the case with the above mentioned vehicle. I appreciate the info that has been shared. It will save me a lot of frustration and time knowing the right tools that I need. Knowing that replacing the switch has fixed the problem for a couple of you is encouraging.

garnold84

Thought I'd update my post of Sep 2006. Everybody was figuring that I'd burn the car up or there would be major problems with my cheap fix.

Well, way over two years now and everything still works as it did when I did the fix and nothing has "burned up".

I'm sorry, but this is one cheap fix that does the job. The turn signals still work, the brake lights work (and the third brake light doesn't "blink with the turn signals ... as I said this is impossible). This is a daily driver used over 30 miles every day.

I stick to my story, fix it for under $10!

I have had the same annoying problem with my '97 lumina, the rear brake lights only work when I wiggle the turn signal switch. I actually have a spare steering column for a 1998 Lumina with a used switch inside.

I am opting to splice into the third brake light for now. I read an earlier post of that actually being done with success. I bought 2 tail light harnesses from the junk yard for 10 dollars and will drill / dremmel some holes.

The only problem I see with this is that the brake lights are intermittent so from time to time 2 brake lights will be lit up - per side, which will be brighter. Also if the switch deteriorates further and the signal lights fail, I will be forced to replace the switch with a new one.

It sounds like it is much more common for only the brake lights to fail and have had no problems with turn signals personally so I hope to get a few years out of this quick fix.

Yes, this is a temporary fix. Yet, I did mine in September of 06 and now it's June of 2010, and mine is still working just fine. I'm sure that eventually the switch will completely fail, but the turn signals will tell me that. At least you will still have brake lights, far more important.

As for the brake light being slightly brighter, I had friends follow me and tell me that since they knew what they were looking for, they could tell ... but it was so slight that if they didn't know what to look for, they would never have known.

It works. Glad to see someone else had it work for them.

This is the most helpful and comprehensive thread on replacing the turn signal switch, especially the comment from eddiek, because I have done it all with the right tools but the haynes manual does not tell you about the 5/32 bolt to unplug the switch cables. Thanks all.

"I am not an auto mechanic but I didn't find the job hard just tedious.I found the plugs a little frustrating to unplug mostly because my body and hands don't flex like they used to.To remove the plug for the switch you must first remove the small 5/32 bolt in the center of the pack and seperate it."

Please read back about tying into your 3rd lite. there was a problem and the switch is not that hard to change.Many auto places loan tools to do the work.Just take care with the air bag and use a grounded wrist strap when dealing with it because a static charge can set it off!

Hi Eddie, Etc

Where exactly is that 5/16th screw to unplug the ribbon cable plugs? - I have a 1993 though, and I have it down to the two switches, and just want to replace the turn signal switch - it looks like the ribbon is fed through the column though, and I have the kick panel open - can't seem to find the end of that plug! - is it inside the steering column? I think I might see the one for the lever, at least I see what I think is the ribbon cable for the lever, but can't see the one for the turn signal switch... any help here would be great!- thanks...

on my 1999, it is just above the kick plate. it can't go too far because the turn signal cable is not that long. there are two plugs and cables into the bolted plug (side by side).