93, 1.9 Head question

I've had a hell of a time getting the head off of this car. I have read every post that I can find regarding the heads on this car. I need a little more insight. I have removed the motor mount bracket that bolts to the frame of the car, but not the part that mounts to the engine. Do I need to remove this too? I'm trying to get the plastic cover off of the timing belt. I really am having more of a problem with the alternater bracket than anything else though. If I could get the damn bracket outta the way I could get the cover off, no problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also how do you remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail? I have disconnected the safety wires but cannot pull the damn hoses off. Whats the trick to get them off?

ok, I'm going to try to help you out here. I haven't ever taken the head off of one of these cars, but this is according to the HAYNES manual.

the procedure is with the intake and exhaust manifolds attached...but if you have them off, it will be easier obviously ...ok..here's what it says.

1. relieve fuel pressure from the fuel system(shrader(SP?) valve), drain coolent, disconnect the battery terminals.

2. remove the air intake duct.

3. disconnect the power brake hose from the intake manifold, the PCV hose from the valve cover and the vaccum hose from the bottom of the throttle body(TB).

4. labe and diconnect all electrical connectors including the ground strap, attaching the cylinder head to the engine and vehical.

5. disconnect the Throttle Cable(kickdown cable if you have an auto) from the throttle lever. Detach the cable bracket from the manifold.

6. Disconnect the heater hose that runs to the coolent temp switches at the firewall. Disconnect the radiator upper hose.

7. Remove the dipstick tube nut from the stud on the cylinder head.

8. unbolt the power steering and A/C house brackets from the alternator bracket

9. Remove the drivebelt and tensioner

10. Remove the alternator

11. Remove the catalytic converter inlet pipe(egr tube from header to egr??)

12. detach the starter motor wiring harness from its clip beneath the intake manifold

13. remove the timing belt

14. Remove the starter motor bolt that secures the heater hose support bracket.

(all 1.9)(there was a section here for just 91's...but now back to all 1.9s)

15. Remove the bolt that secures the alternator bracket to the cyilnder head

16. Remove the valve cover

17. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the opposite order of tightening sequence
(the below is the TIGHTENING sequence)
9 3 1 5 7
8 6 2 4 10

18. Remove the cylinder head bolts. :NOTE: keep the head bolts for use in measuring piston squish height. However the bolts must not be reused for finall installation fot he cylinder head, always use new bolts!!!

19. Remove the cylinder headwith the intake/exhaust attached(if they are already removed...eh..ya know) :lol2:

20. Note, the locations of the cylinder head dowels then remove them.

21. Remove all traces of the old gasket material from the head and cylinder block mating surfaces. :NOTE: use a razor blade. remember the block is Aluminum so it can be scratched easy and you don't want that on any mating surface..that would be bad :eek: after you scrape off all the gasket, use a solvent to clean both the head and the block. I would check with a straight edge to make sure the cylinder head and/or block hasn't warped....depending on what happened and why you're ripping the head off.

if you use the same gaskets and did not resurface the head or block, then I doubt you'll need to do any piston/valve clearance tests...if not...just do this to Install it


INSTALL:

1. Place a new head gasket on the cylinder block and then locate the cylinder head on the dowels(If you replaced any dowels, make sure that they are completely seated in the block. Make sure they don't protrude as high as the combined height of the head gasket and the recess in the cyilnder head. If the dowels protrude to far, the head will not seat properly against the gasket.

2. Apply a thing coat of clean engine oil to the treads of new cylinder head bolts...install them in the sequence listed above
sequence for torque'n them down(this is messed up)

Cylinder Head bolts:
step1. 30 to 44 ft-lbs
step2. loosen 2 turns (don't ask...i"m just telling you what the manual states)
step3. 44 ft-lbs
step4. tighten 1/4 turn from step3
step5. tighten 1/4 turn from step4

3. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal steps.

4. Run the engine and check for leaks.

I've had a hell of a time getting the head off of this car. I have read every post that I can find regarding the heads on this car. I need a little more insight. I have removed the motor mount bracket that bolts to the frame of the car, but not the part that mounts to the engine. Do I need to remove this too? I'm trying to get the plastic cover off of the timing belt. I really am having more of a problem with the alternater bracket than anything else though. If I could get the damn bracket outta the way I could get the cover off, no problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also how do you remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail? I have disconnected the safety wires but cannot pull the damn hoses off. Whats the trick to get them off?


I don't think you have to mess with the motor mounts.

There is a grounding wire you have to remove, usually its braid'd...at least on the newer cars it is

The timing belt cover I think comes off after you take all the other stuff off the engine...re-read my previous post. I can't remember that far back me = :loser:

Alternator bracket might be on there pretty good. spray some WD40 into the bolt holding it, let it soak 20-30 minutes spraying it a few times and try again. Again, I don't have a flashlight to look at the engine bay in the dark.

Fuel lines from the fuel rail...its dark outside and I don't have a flashlight, but usually there is a plastic peice in the line itself you can push together and in a direction(away from the rail usually) to disconnect it. Its sometimes a pain in the butt and I know my mechanic friends use a little plastic "clip" tool but I just used my hands.

I'm not sure what you mean by the safety wires?

If there's anything else I can help with, email me at darkblueta@aol.com (Darkblue = AIM also) but I might be able to snap a few pics of the engine bay and use photoshop or something to help you out if you need.

good luck

I didn't know I had to remove all of the other stuff to get the plastic cover off. As far as the fuel rail connections.....I have a neighbor that has had to disconnect those before. I think he said he basically made a tool from some plastic to get those off. If I need anything else, I'll shoot you a email.
Thanks again for posting the stuff from the manual!

I didn't know I had to remove all of the other stuff to get the plastic cover off. As far as the fuel rail connections.....I have a neighbor that has had to disconnect those before. I think he said he basically made a tool from some plastic to get those off. If I need anything else, I'll shoot you a email.
Thanks again for posting the stuff from the manual!


Yeah, the fuel rail/line disconnect is a little plastic clip..blue in color..at least my friends was.

Yeah, no problem. I try to help out when I have a chance and have time. Good luck!

Just dont forget about the one bolt behind the alternator that attaches from the braket and into the head.
Any parts store should have a fuel line remover for only a few bucks, just tell them it's for a ford, they'll know what you need.
Or you could just leave the intake manifold in the engine bay and just oull the head.

Just dont forget about the one bolt behind the alternator that attaches from the braket and into the head.
Any parts store should have a fuel line remover for only a few bucks, just tell them it's for a ford, they'll know what you need.
Or you could just leave the intake manifold in the engine bay and just oull the head.

I got that bolt out, it's finding the rest of them thats going to be a pain in the arse. Looks alful tight to get them out, let alone getting them back in, with those pulleys being in the way.
I left the intake on, seems like it would be easier to pull the head with it, than try to reach of of those nuts.

I've just replaced the head on this car. But I can't get the teeth to line up with the timing belt. I know that I'm at TDC with the number 1 piston, cause I lined it up before I bolted the head back on, also the marks line up. I put the belt on the cam pulley and it will fit about half of the teeth of the pulley but not the rest of the teeth. Any ideas as to how to do this? I have fooled with this thing for about 2 hours. I called the parts store to make sure I've got the right belt, and it does fit, just not quite like it should. Any suggestions?

I've just replaced the head on this car. But I can't get the teeth to line up with the timing belt. I know that I'm at TDC with the number 1 piston, cause I lined it up before I bolted the head back on, also the marks line up. I put the belt on the cam pulley and it will fit about half of the teeth of the pulley but not the rest of the teeth. Any ideas as to how to do this? I have fooled with this thing for about 2 hours. I called the parts store to make sure I've got the right belt, and it does fit, just not quite like it should. Any suggestions?
If it's a different head then what you had, you could have a mixture of square teeth and round teeth T-belt pully's. The heads are the same from 91-96, but the pully's switch back and forth a few times.

I got the old pulley off, and put it on. I got it all back together today. Started on the first turn of the key, and purr's like a kitten.
Thanks for everyones help.

just pulled head today on '99 2.0.
pulled exhaust and intake together, one thing not in book, had to unbolt small bolts on small tube that runs from thing just under the exhaust that crosses underneath the pvc and runs to firewall side of head, then pulled/bent the pipe so that it cleared the pvc bracket.