Another window problem

I've read almost all of the other posts for power window problems and none of them seem to be quite what my problem is...or they might be. My driver side window (97 Accord LX) will not go up. The problem started out with both front windows just going up slowly. Then the driver side window started to get stuck occasionally if it was cold. It has no problem going down though. I've tried the silicone spray to no avail, and besides, I'm pretty sure its not binding anywhere because when I try to make the window go up the motor doesn't even try. Is it possible that only one direction is dead on the motor? Or could the up component of the switch have died on me? I've even tried pressing the button and pulling the window up...hard...still doesn't budge. If anyone could help me figure out what in the world is wrong with my window it would be greatly appreciated...especially since its starting to get cold and driving with 20º wind blasting in the car isn't real pleasant.
Thanks
-Dylan

If the motor works in one direction it is good in both directions and the fact that it goes down means you have power. You probably have a bad switch. However you can test the motor by applying 12 volts to the red/yellow and ground to the red/blu. The motor should move. If it goes in the wrong direction, jujst reverse the leads.

If the motor works in one direction it is good in both directions and the fact that it goes down means you have power. You probably have a bad switch. However you can test the motor by applying 12 volts to the red/yellow and ground to the red/blu. The motor should move. If it goes in the wrong direction, jujst reverse the leads.

Thanks, I'll check it out as soon as it stops raining here.

same thing just happened to me a few hours ago on my 86 lxi hatch went down real slow but will not go back up and doesnt make a sound so ill try the same thing when i get out of school tomarow.

It turned out to be the switch was burned out. Expensive little bastard but it's now a lot less windy and arctic in my car so I really cant complain.

What happens on these window switches is ithat if the window drags on the way up or down, the motor takes extra current to move the window. This extra current heats up the switch and when you release it, a large arc can burn the contacts. So it is important to keep the window channel lubed up with silcone spray and don't hold the switch in the on position when it reaches the top or bottom. The motor doesn't have a torque switch inside, so it doesn't know when it has reached the top or bottom. (Except for the drivers side which will release the auto down function when the high motor current trips the hold on switch.)

What happens on these window switches is ithat if the window drags on the way up or down, the motor takes extra current to move the window. This extra current heats up the switch and when you release it, a large arc can burn the contacts. So it is important to keep the window channel lubed up with silcone spray and don't hold the switch in the on position when it reaches the top or bottom. The motor doesn't have a torque switch inside, so it doesn't know when it has reached the top or bottom. (Except for the drivers side which will release the auto down function when the high motor current trips the hold on switch.)

Great post, you just solved my problem, I believe. That was what I suspected to begin with....I can't believe they didn't put torque switches inside of these motors....That's the obvious root of this common problem with Accords. One more question though, can I only get this from a dealer?

You can get one from a junk yard. You will probably get the whole bezel but with the wrong color. That can be changed by pulling the switch module out of the bezel and using your old bezel. It may cost about $70.00.

I had a 91 Accord that had the same problem. I took apart the driverside window switch and cleaned off the contacts. Then I put a drop of solder on each contact that looked like it was melted. It worked and never had a problem since.