H23 vtec horsepower?

I am trying to decide if I would rather put the H22 head on my H23 block or just swap an H22. I have been in the process of saving for quite some time and still have not made up my mind. Has anyone ever seen dyno results from an H23 frankenstein or know what kind of horsepower I would get out of this? Assuming both H23 block and H22 head are bone stock. What are some suggestions? H23 Frankenstein or H22a swap? If this has been covered in a previous thread, I appologize but my internet connection is jacking up and I didn't get that far.

I also am considering selling my 18" Graphite Konig Holes wrapped with Toyo Proxe FZ4's from my 4th gen for a decent price to get the engine project on the road if anyone is interested. The tires only have about 5,000 miles on them. The rear ones are in perfect shape and I have been running the fronts on about 1.3 degrees negative camber and are wore about halfway on the inside but would be fine on a straight car. Thanks.

I have heard that a h22 conversion is a long a tedious process and isn't worth the time. But I can't say I have done it. I would assume it would make a little more horsepower than an h22, just a guess though. I think that you would be better off getting an h22 and saving yourself alot of trouble. They aren't very expensive I have seen them advertised for like $1500 or about $2200 with tranny.

hey nice nick (:

anyways - I would recommend against the frankenstein - I think it's just too much work for minimal gains (and no i have no account of what i'm saying, because I haven't dyno'd one but..) - unless you really plan on doing stuff to the bottom end of the h23 later what's the point? - if you just want to run it stock you'll have a lot of issues getting the vtec running because there are no oil ports (or the ports are pinched or something) on the h23 where the head from the h22 will mate. You can't just take your handy dandy dewalt and unport the holes either - that shit has to be machined so I mean if you are willing to deal with this sorta stuff, and take it from shop to shop - it could be an interesting affair - but if you want something that's not really a headache - i would highly suggest against frankensteining. Once again, like anything it's about money and time, and most of all patience (: - i'm sure the procedure is well documented somewhere on the internet so look about and see what stuff you're going to have to go thru. I imagine you'll also need some form of customized fuel maps/ecu too.

have you considered a REAL jdm h23 vtec? i'm not sure what that would run, but i think they put out 215hp. but even so i digress because an s-type jdm h22 puts out 220hp ...

dropping a jdm h22a in is almost effortless - and you can still use your h23 trans.. to me it was clearly the way to go. when picking one - ask for compression numbers... best of luck.

I have done alot of research on the frankenstein and the oil ports you are talking about, I think are just plugs you can pull out(if we are thinking about the same thing). You also have to change everything that touches the timing belt and install oil squirters in the block for reliability. I'm pretty sure I'm leaning toward the H22a swap like you said. Easier and probably more reliable. I also heard the bottom end's longer stroke can't handle the stress of 7500 rpms for too long.

Can someone explain what exactly makes the H22 so much faster than H23 even though the H23 obviously has more displacement? Is it higher compression pistons and better head work, or does vtec(variable valve timing) produce those extra 30 horses? Or combination of some of these? Thanks for the input. :)

Yes, it is a combination of the three. The H22A head flows noticeably better than the H23A, resulting from variable valve timing and head design. If you notice, torque between H22A and H23A are roughly identical; VTEC just lets H22A safely produce power a little bit longer than H23A. Essentially, more displacement does not necessarily equate to more power as long as the cylinder head itself is the limiting factor. This is why some people were contemplating putting the more efficient H22A head on the H23A block. With the H23A alone, the larger displacement gives you more low end torque, but the torque curve will fall faster on it versus on the higher revving H22 and power will be the same. Without the head, H22A and H23A are roughly equals.

Thanks alot Aces! Much help with understanding! :)

also a possibility:
if u do decide to just get an H22, then you could swap the crank, rods, and pistons from u'r H23 into the H22 and u'll have a 2.3L H22. basicly it's easier than swapping the H22 head onto the H23 block, and u still get the 2.3L.

Actually, if you did that you would end up with a 2.2L non VTEC block that has a high compression. The difference in the 2.2 and 2.3L of H23 and H22 is stroke, and the pistons from an H23A in an H22A would... well, it would not be good.

So whats the difference between a H22 and H23? Just wanted to know, cuz i've never really heard too much about the H23

H23 is in the S and Si preludes, 160ish hp in the Si, either 130 or 140hp in the S, not sure. H22 is the vtec engine, 195hp. H series engine, 2.2L, H series engine, 2.3L

I have heard that a h22 conversion is a long a tedious process and isn't worth the time. But I can't say I have done it. I would assume it would make a little more horsepower than an h22, just a guess though. I think that you would be better off getting an h22 and saving yourself alot of trouble. They aren't very expensive I have seen them advertised for like $1500 or about $2200 with tranny.


you can buy a $2000 ford mustang with 400 horsepower engine. it will kick ass on quarter mile. why go to hassle of engine conversion.

or maybe just buy a 93-96 prelude vtec if you can find one.

Actually, if you did that you would end up with a 2.2L non VTEC block that has a high compression. The difference in the 2.2 and 2.3L of H23 and H22 is stroke, and the pistons from an H23A in an H22A would... well, it would not be good.

not saying u'r wrong, but how would it be any different at all than swapping an H22 head onto an H23 block??? that's kinda contradictory. please explain because i'm cursious as to y it "doesn't" work.
i was saying, open up both motors since u would anyway to put the 22 head on the 23 block. take the pistons, rods, crank out of the 23 and put them into the 22 block. put the 22 head back on the original 22 block that now has the 23's pistons, rods, and crank. that way u avoid all the mess of the swapping the 22 head onto the 23 stock block.

and about buying a stang w/ 400 horsies already, that misses the whole point. it's way more rewarding to make the power u'rself. nothing at all against the stang or any american muscle car, i want to get one sum day, but i find it more fun to make a car faster than it was intended for. maybe once i own one i'll reconsider, but i'll still tear it apart and do it over stronger. oh well to each their own.

i was saying, open up both motors since u would anyway to put the 22 head on the 23 block. take the pistons, rods, crank out of the 23 and put them into the 22 block. put the 22 head back on the original 22 block that now has the 23's pistons, rods, and crank. that way u avoid all the mess of the swapping the 22 head onto the 23 stock block.

Why is it easier to swap internals (pistons/crank etc...)? I know the Frankenstein swap isn't easy, but your talking about tearing apart the whole block! It would probably work if you did it, but it seems like more work than "just" swapping heads.

Why is it easier to swap internals (pistons/crank etc...)? I know the Frankenstein swap isn't easy, but your talking about tearing apart the whole block! It would probably work if you did it, but it seems like more work than swapping heads.

i have found, from personal experience, that swapping block internals is really easy. i mean real easy. i've torn down and put back together 4 motors in the last 2 months so needless to say, i'm used to it. i have not done a frankie yet, but from all that i've heard, it sounds like a bit of work i'd rather skip if there was a way to get the same results. also u'd avoid any mistakes u might make modifying for the frankie. if u can't swap block internals w/o problems, then u prolly shouldn't try the frankie either. (not u in particular, but general) i do plan on tryin my hand at the frankie, but i wanna get a car to put it in first.

thanks for all the info everyone...

Ah yes, I misread that. It would be VTEC; however the stroke on the H23A is quite long, and unless you retarded the ignition timing you'd end up with problems with compression.

Try it out and see how it goes... I'm still skeptical on it working well.

Try it out and see how it goes... I'm still skeptical on it working well.

one of the guys in my auto class is planning on swapping an H22 into his Preluse Si. i told him about the frankie and the crank, rod, piston swapping. i guess we'll see which he decides to try. i'm kinda rootin for the method i've suggested, but obviously it'll be up to him. if he does do it, i'll get back on how it turned out. hopefully he'll let me help so i'll be able to see if everything gets dun right instead of him skipping things that'll kill it regard less.

It realy isnt that hard to rip apart a engine and put new parts in, you just need to torque the bolts right and put everything in the right order.

Hi there I was wondering if you knew if there would be much difference to change a 2.3L engine to a 2.2L engine... if it would be much work or cost alot of money.... i own a 95 cavalier Z24 and can't seem to find an engine of a 2.3 anywhere for it n i was i wondering if a 2.2 put in would be alot of work...i don't know much about it at all so i thought i would ask your opinion!!!! thanks for your time.... plz email me @ dardar85@hotmail.com

This thead is more than a year old.

Hi there I was wondering if you knew if there would be much difference to change a 2.3L engine to a 2.2L engine... if it would be much work or cost alot of money.... i own a 95 cavalier Z24 and can't seem to find an engine of a 2.3 anywhere for it n i was i wondering if a 2.2 put in would be alot of work...i don't know much about it at all so i thought i would ask your opinion!!!! thanks for your time.... plz email me @ dardar85@hotmail.com


the GM ecotech 2.2 engine is much faster than h22a and cheaper.. check ebay ..you can get a good one for about $1500 ..put that on your cavalier direct swap..

some cars with stock ecotech 2.2 engine can do about 14 seconds on 1/4 miles run..

Hi there I was wondering if you knew if there would be much difference to change a 2.3L engine to a 2.2L engine... if it would be much work or cost alot of money.... i own a 95 cavalier Z24 and can't seem to find an engine of a 2.3 anywhere for it n i was i wondering if a 2.2 put in would be alot of work...i don't know much about it at all so i thought i would ask your opinion!!!! thanks for your time.... plz email me @ dardar85@hotmail.com


here are some cavaliers like yours. manyou wouldnt believe these piece
of shit cars are modified with nitrous shots (NOS system) only and
theyre doing 11 seconds on 1/4 mile.. see the site man>>>>
http://www.dragtimes.com/Chevrolet-Cavalier-Timeslip-1933.html

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/456000-456999/456970_17_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/456000-456999/456970_22_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/456000-456999/456970_21_full.jpg

Once again, OLD thread. And we all know of idiots running huge shots of spray on a stock engine.

Edit: After looking at the site it says he spent 35K on that car just to run a 11.9. Whooo :rolleyes:

running huge shots of spray on a stock engine is fine as long as you dont go lean. i can tell you dont know nothing about NOS..


Once again, OLD thread. And we all know of idiots running huge shots of spray on a stock engine.

Edit: After looking at the site it says he spent 35K on that car just to run a 11.9. Whooo :rolleyes:

running huge shots of spray on a stock engine is fine as long as you dont go lean. i can tell you dont know nothing about NOS..

Running huge shots on a stock engine is NOT fine. Stock rods and other internals arent capable of taking that much abuse.

trush me ive done it. you can run hude shots on a stock engines..

and yeah of course theyll fall apart....and so as the heavy duty
bullet proof racing engines.

the extreme abuse from drag racing causes any stock or heavy duty bullet proof racing engines to fall apart.


Running huge shots on a stock engine is NOT fine. Stock rods and other internals arent capable of taking that much abuse.

trush me ive done it. you can run hude shots on a stock engines..

and yeah of course theyll fall apart....and so as the heavy duty
bullet proof racing engines.

the extreme abuse from drag racing causes any stock or heavy duty bullet proof racing engines to fall apart.

You basically agreed to what I said about high amounts of spray on stock engines, yet your still arguring. Great. :disappoin
Running that much juice on a stock engine is just begging for a rebuild.
Would a mod lock this? Oh wait, none of them get here often enough.

Read my post again. I said you can run hude shots on stock engine. Just make sure you dont go lean. Got it?

Lean A/F ratio causes extreme high combustion chamber temp. Therefore, it fucks up the rods and pistons..Got it?

running with correct A/F ratio all the way is the trick. You need to know how to do it and your stock engine wont be begging for a rebuild.

If you still dont get it then maybe you should quit arguing with me cus you dont know nothing about NOS.

You basically agreed to what I said about high amounts of spray on stock engines, yet your still arguring. Great. :disappoin
Running that much juice on a stock engine is just begging for a rebuild.
Would a mod lock this? Oh wait, none of them get here often enough.

Read my post again. I said you can run hude shots on stock engine. Just make sure you dont go lean. Got it?

Lean A/F ratio causes extreme high combustion chamber temp. Therefore, it fucks up the rods and pistons..Got it?

running with correct A/F ratio all the way is the trick. You need to know how to do it and your stock engine wont be begging for a rebuild.

If you still dont get it then maybe you should quit arguing with me cus you dont know nothing about NOS.

I know enough about nitrous as to not call it "NOS"

Proper a/f ratios or not, running that much spray on a stock engine IS NEVER going to last.

This better get locked soon, this is going no where. :rolleyes: :disappoin

honestly, i would swap to a jdm h22.....220hp. and plus it is not hard to find one, but the frankenstein is not worth the time or the trouble

honestly, i would swap to a jdm h22.....220hp. and plus it is not hard to find one, but the frankenstein is not worth the time or the trouble

The only one with 220 hp was the type-s and it had ATTS, so I would stick with regular jdm h22 with 200 hp.

Okay, enough already.

First off, check the thread dates BEFORE you post. DO NOT reserect dead threads. This thread was dead for more than a year before it was brought back from the dead.

Second, it's not called NOS, it's called Nitrous. NOS is a BRAND NAME, a division of Holly Performance Products. Nitrous Oxide is called NITROUS for short, not NOS...which is a brand name.

With that said...check the thread dates before postingf and try not to bring threads back from the dead. Honda Racing was correct, this thread is more than a year old...don't bring dead threads back from the dead. I suggest reading the rules and guidelines at the top of this forum.