There are possibly 2 problems with this car. Usually when cold, the engine will start after 10 to 15 seconds of cranking, (2 or 3 times.) It will most of the time run fine after that. The last couple of days, it has started, then the gauges on the dash board go crazy and the engine dies. The car will take a while to start after an episode. So far today I have been able to walk right over to it and it starts right up. I have replaced the battery about 2 months ago. Just tuned engine yesterday (Spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor.) This problem is getting to the point where I am nervous about driving the car to far from home. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!

If near or over 80K miles, I'd have the fuel pressure tested. Easy five minute job. If the fuel pump is going bad, this is a classic symptom of that. Somewhat expensive repair though.

What exactly does that mean the gauges go "crazy"....????

All the gauges, tach, speedo, oil, battery, water, swing to max and then back to zero. The radio also looses the time setting, but not presets. This symptom makes me think it is electrical, not fuel.

You might possibly have a bad ignition switch. Do a search on this forum for ignition switch. The instrument cluster problem is a good sign that your problem is with the pink wire in the ignition switch. Search My thread under 2001 instrument cluster for the service bulletin number.

Yep go look at the ign switch

I would have to agree, it sounds like my 97 blazer when my ign. switch went bad.

Yip, ignition switch,

DiD you ever figure it out???? -Just posted this on another guys post -- -I just posted last night about troubling short problems -on my second blazer this one a 89 -last was a 86. Both developed short problems -the old one went to the scrap yard with it`s problem as I never could figure it out. It would jump the guages everywhere and pop the dome light -finally had to run at night with the dimmer off and no guages but wouldn`t drain the battery -weird. The 89 I just figured out today-it buzzed as battery wasn`t charging and killed the gas/oil/temp guages and blew the dome. Turns out the stock radio is somehow shorted and when the radio fuse is removed everything returns to normal-to bad I spent 100$ on a new alt before I figured it out. I wish you luck in tracking it-thankfully it`s currently intermit. and not letting you sit.
So what did you do?

I appreciate ALL of the input!!! I will probably be able to check this out this weekend. Will post what I find. Thank You!

Again thank you all for your help. I worked on this problem over the weekend. The check engine light kept coming on, but would go out before I could get codes. On Saturday the battery light came on, (new battery 3 months ago). After removing the dash trim and exposing the ignition, I wiggled the pink wire, but there was no change in starting or lights on dash. I could not do a lot of testing because it appears the alternator is bad, and it was running on only battery power. I have had this truck for only 3 months and so far have put approx $1200.00 in parts and dozens of hours making repairs, so I called the dealer where I purchased it. They sent a tow truck over to have it taken to their shop for evaluation and repair. I will post again when I hear back from them.

Go get the engine codes examined.

The check engine light does not have to be on to extract the codes. Once the light has been on, it stores the codes.

Go to autozone and have them extract them for free.

Well the dealer replaced the alternator, said that was the problem. It worked for 1 week. The enginge is again starting hard again. The check engine light turned on again, and while it was on the idle was really rough. I just had code checked, it is a P301. Not sure yet what it is for. The light stayed on for about 1 1/2 days then went off again. Now the idle seems a little rough. If anyone knows this code, please let me know. The dealer said to take it back and they will "examine" it. I can not afford to be without this car. Thank you again!!!!

p301 is a miss fire in cylinder number 1

Well the dealer replaced the alternator, said that was the problem. It worked for 1 week. The enginge is again starting hard again. The check engine light turned on again, and while it was on the idle was really rough. I just had code checked, it is a P301. Not sure yet what it is for. The light stayed on for about 1 1/2 days then went off again. Now the idle seems a little rough. If anyone knows this code, please let me know. The dealer said to take it back and they will "examine" it. I can not afford to be without this car. Thank you again!!!!

Have you ever done a tuneup?

If not, I believe you should.

Could be just a worn out plug. Also try a different brand of gas and make sure your MAF sensor is clean.

With that long crank time and misfire on cylinder one I would investigate your number 1 injector. Check for a fuel pressure drop.

Yea, the #1 injector could be in need of a swap but I would too recommend a fuel pressure check.

The Blazer was tuned up last month as part of the trouble shooting process. Replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I have a new fuel filter, but have not installed yet. This weekend I will. Also I just put some fuel system cleaner in tank. The engine is equipped with a throttle body injector also, not individual.

lol, bro, don't tell us what fuel injection you have. We know what it is.

It is not TB injection.

You have one injector going to each of your six cylinders.

This system is called the Central Sequential Fuel Injection (Central SFI). Which means that all six injectors are in a centralized location (in the upper intake plenium) and fire sequentially (each during the correct time in the firing order).

The TBI (throttle body injection) is basically an electronic carborator. Constantly firing fuel, not as efficient as sequential.