I have a 95' dogge neon automatic. I went in 3 months ago and had my oil changed along with my transmission. Well this morning on the way to to work, it started skipping. I would stop at a red light and when I tried to go the car stalled so I had to hold my foot hard on the gas. It did not do it everytime just sometimes. My husband put in 1 quart of fluid last night because he has noticed the same thing yesterday...any ideas? Im gonna have him look when I get off work today and make sure it is not out of fluid.

Any Ideas are appreciated, I hate driving it like that.

Monica,

If the tranny is slipping, that's a real problem. I don't know much about automatics, but is it possible she could have the bands tightened?

Thanks, I had my husband look when I got home. He started the car, and the transmission had no fluid in it, so it is leaking he put 1/2 quart in the day before. I think I need to take it to a transmission place...gosh I hope it is not exspensive!!
Monica,

Transmissions are always expensive... and neons are notorious for ATX problems, hell I blew mine apart not more than 3 weeks ago. Hopefully its just your main seal leaking of a gasket and that shouldn't be much to replace... at least not as much as having the trans rebuilt which in some cases can cost over 1500.

Thanks, I have to pay $480 to have it resurfaced ugh! I hope that is all that is wrong with it.

Monica,

I have a 95' dogge neon automatic. I went in 3 months ago and had my oil changed along with my transmission. Well this morning on the way to to work, it started skipping. I would stop at a red light and when I tried to go the car stalled so I had to hold my foot hard on the gas. It did not do it everytime just sometimes. My husband put in 1 quart of fluid last night because he has noticed the same thing yesterday...any ideas? Im gonna have him look when I get off work today and make sure it is not out of fluid.

Any Ideas are appreciated, I hate driving it like that.

Monica,

Make sure he did not overfill it will blow the seals

my car is doing the same thing... one day it will run fine.. then the next day it runs like crap.... im not sure what the deal is.. but im soooo fed up with it.. im to the point where i dont feel safe driving that car.. I have a 95 neon.. and it stalls... check engine light comes on... if i let my car idil for awhile.. it dies... stupid car.. we have a love hate relationship.. I think it might be the computer.. but i dunno im just a girl who only knows how to put gas in her car....

hi there,
well mine is also a 95, is yours automatic?
i found out the seals had melted on mine, so i got it resurfaced and since then it has not gave me any problems.
hope i helped some.
Monica,

Hi.. yes my car is an automatic... and after reading some post on here... i went outside an checked all my fluids.. an everything is good... but i still dont know why its being a punk... i am wondering if it is my fuel filter... im not sure how long they last but i did mine about 4-5 months ago i think... could that possiably be why my car will stall???

hatemyneon :( if the fuel filter was changed 4-5 months ago. I doubt its the problem. my neon had the factory filter on it for 8 years and 210000 miles. if you look at some of my other answers in this forum you might find some places to look. my first guess would be the connector going into the ignition coil. pull it out inspect it and the wires and plug pins.
everything should look nice and clean. the problem that a few people, including myself, have is where the wires go into the connector. the plugs pins are crimped onto the wires. on mine, heat from the manifold damaged the wireing at the plug pin, wire connection. I cut the plug off and soldered to wires to the pins. soldered the wires back togeather, heat shrinked them and 3M electrical taped them. and that problem was toast :) its also not a bad idea to put a little dielectric grease on the plug sealing and contact surfaces. I also pull off the sparkplug wires form the coil one at a time clean the the inside,outside of the boot on the wire and clean the coil post well. then put a nice coat of dielectric grease on the post and in the boot. this makes it easier to connect and remove and also helps insulate the whole thing by keeping moisture and the like from allowing the spark to jump where it shouldn't

Some might not agree with me but I have kept my neon going strong for 9 years and 240000 miles. So I can't be all wrong. B)

If your check engine light is on check the codes. Even if it only puts the CEL up every once in a while it will still store the codes in the memory of teh comp until its flashed or wiped. To check the codes, you put the key in the ignition move it to the "on" position but don't start it then (the on position is the one where everything in the car turns on, the guages and the radio) the put it back to off then to on again the back to off then to on again. Watch the check engine light, it will stay on for a little whiel then turn off for a moment. Then it will start flashing the codes out. It will flash to a number, then have a longer pause then flash again thats how you knows it the next number. I will go like flash-brief pause flash long pause flash brief paus flash long pause, the mean 2 and 2 just read all the numbers and write them down. Let us know what they are and it should give us a good idea on whats up with your car.

If your check engine light is on check the codes. Even if it only puts the CEL up every once in a while it will still store the codes in the memory of teh comp until its flashed or wiped. To check the codes, you put the key in the ignition move it to the "on" position but don't start it then (the on position is the one where everything in the car turns on, the guages and the radio) the put it back to off then to on again the back to off then to on again. Watch the check engine light, it will stay on for a little whiel then turn off for a moment. Then it will start flashing the codes out. It will flash to a number, then have a longer pause then flash again thats how you knows it the next number. I will go like flash-brief pause flash long pause flash brief paus flash long pause, the mean 2 and 2 just read all the numbers and write them down. Let us know what they are and it should give us a good idea on whats up with your car.


ok this is what i did... im a girl who knows nothing.. so i got in my car and my CEL was off... and i havnt driven the car in about a day and a half.... so i turned the car on but not allt he way, then off then on an then off the back on... an this is what came up... first time was 1 2 then 3 and 3 5 and 3 and 5 and 5 i have my own car book... a haynes or something... i wonder if its my computer..since my CEL comes on and goes off when it feels like.... i've had my car for 3 years and i've put 3 fuel filters on there thats why i asked if it were the fuel fliter... i dont know how to clean anything on the car.. becuz im scared i'd mess it up..

I had a sunfire and it would stall really bad sometimes when I would stop it would die and when I started it it would be fine until I put it in drive and it would die. I replaced the fuel filter and that didnt fix. I put in new plugs and wires. One plug wire was bad I guess and it ran perfect. Im happy someone hit it and I got a neon!

ok this is what i did... im a girl who knows nothing.. so i got in my car and my CEL was off... and i havnt driven the car in about a day and a half.... so i turned the car on but not allt he way, then off then on an then off the back on... an this is what came up... first time was 1 2 then 3 and 3 5 and 3 and 5 and 5 i have my own car book... a haynes or something... i wonder if its my computer..since my CEL comes on and goes off when it feels like.... i've had my car for 3 years and i've put 3 fuel filters on there thats why i asked if it were the fuel fliter... i dont know how to clean anything on the car.. becuz im scared i'd mess it up..

Code 12 is nothing to be worried about it. It simply means that the computer lost power sometime in the last 50 key-on cycles (typically because the battery was disconnected).

Code 33 - A/C clutch relay circuit problem. Check the relay in the PDC fusebox under the hood. Replace if necessary.

http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_location_small.jpg
Click for Larger Pic. (http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_location.jpg)

http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_fuselisting_small.jpg
Click for Larger Pic. (http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_fuselisting.jpg)

http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_acclutchrelay_small.jpg
Click for Larger Pic. (http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_acclutchrelay.jpg)

Code 53 - Internal controller failure. You should get this checked out by your local trusted mechanic or dealership.

Code 55 - End of Codes. It means just that... that is end of all error codes, nothing to worry about there.

L8R,

Code 12 is nothing to be worried about it. It simply means that the computer lost power sometime in the last 50 key-on cycles (typically because the battery was disconnected).

Code 33 - A/C clutch relay circuit problem. Check the relay in the PDC fusebox under the hood. Replace if necessary.

http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_location_small.jpg
Click for Larger Pic. (http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_location.jpg)

http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_fuselisting_small.jpg
Click for Larger Pic. (http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_fuselisting.jpg)

http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_acclutchrelay_small.jpg
Click for Larger Pic. (http://www.myneonspeed.com/styl/PDC_Fusebox_acclutchrelay.jpg)

Code 53 - Internal controller failure. You should get this checked out by your local trusted mechanic or dealership.

Code 55 - End of Codes. It means just that... that is end of all error codes, nothing to worry about there.

L8R,


Thank you so much for all your help i did it againw hen i got home an i got code 12 and 25 an i think 25 is the tps and i've had a new tps for 6-7 months.... i think its my computer....

Thank you so much for all your help i did it againw hen i got home an i got code 12 and 25 an i think 25 is the tps and i've had a new tps for 6-7 months.... i think its my computer....

Code 25 is actually your IAC (Idle Air Controller) - Idle air control motor circuits problem, target idle not reached (+/- 200), vacuum leak found.

This could be as simple as a vacuum hose not on tight enough or has a small hole in it. The IAC is located on the throttle body itself, check all the vacuum hoses coming off the throttle body first. If all hoses are fine and snugly attached, replacement of the IAC sensor itself may be needed. I believe there is a simple test listed in the Haynes manual to test whether or not your IAC sensor is functioning properly, you should definitely look into picking one of these manuals up if you plan on keeping the car. Haynes manual's are available at most any auto parts store for about $15 USD.

While it is possible that your computer may be the issue and it is just throwing bogus codes, I wouldn't jump to conclusions on that one just yet. Fix the easy stuff first, if it proves to be the computer... that is a bit more expensive of a repair :( .

Best of luck... L8R,