93 1.9L Escort EGR valve - Where is it?
93 1.9L Escort EGR valve - Where is it?
11-13-2004, 08:18 PM
The trouble I'm having is significant sputtering, decreased acceleration and short term check engine light above 2500 RPM and 60 MPH, mostly going uphill/under moderate/severe load...I can't reproduce it in neutral revving it up.
1. Changed fuel filter.
2. Run 3 bottles of Fuel Injector Cleaner thru it.
3. Changed spark plugs
4. Changed plug wires - I see good spark on all 4 wires
5. Last tank yielded 39 MPG-that was on a 300 mile trip running 55 MPH
6. PCV valve rattles like it should.
What next? The autozone guys keep saying EGR valve...but if I can't find it..LOL
Maybe change out the coil pack? Even tho I visually see good spark, maybe not enough juice under load?
Thanks a bunch, Doug
11-14-2004, 08:18 AM
Mine did EXACTLY the same thing. Replace the O2 sensor and are you sure those plug wires are good? That was ultimately to blame on mine.
11-14-2004, 09:16 AM
I also have a '93 1.9L in a Mercury Tracer, and although in my repair manual it shows the 1.8L does not have a EGR valve, the 1.9L does, but like you I have looked all over and find no EGR valve. My symptoms are slightly different though, only occurring at idle, it idles terrible having to keep one foot on brake and one foot in gas pedal at intersections to keep from killing and no check engine light.
11-14-2004, 08:51 PM
Well, I finally got 2 DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes) out of it...
181: O2 sensor - voltage signal not switching: indicates lean during part throttle engine operation (Bank #1)
I'm not sure if bank #1 is the upstream or downstream sensor.
186: Injector pulsewidth higher than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal is lower than expected
I went to the easiest part...186: MAF sensor (It's right up front just after the air filter). You need a tamperproof (hole in middle) star nut #20 (on mine).
I removed and inspected. (Be REAL careful with it) It has 2 tiny wires, one is heater wire (mine was the shorter one) and one intake airflow thermistor wire. The thermistor had black hairy gunk on it, mostly on the air cleaner side (makes sense - if the air cleaner lets anything thru, it would be on that side).
I blew off both wires with canned air. Got about 75% off before I figured I'd bust one or both and stopped. The autozone guy said it is not recommended to clean but if I had to, then electrical parts cleaner would be best. I figured...well, it's not running properly now, I'll try to clean and if I bust it, well, I probably would have bought one anyway ($65-$80).
(all I used was canned air - I may later try to get it all off with electrical parts cleaner but I'll see how runs for a while first)
I just drove it and got up to 4000 RPM multiple times, experienced NO sluggishness and NO Check Engine light.
I'll check for codes tomorrow.
One other thing I learned...my neighbor brought over a DTC scanner (OBD-I, I think. OBD-II is 1996 1/2 up). Costs about $30. It fits in the ECM and has a light that blinks and speaker to beep. I saw no advantage to it...I found it easier to jumper the ECM with a wire (Haynes manual has the leads to jump) and sit in the driver seat and count the "check engine" flashes. I almost bought one but glad I saved the $30.
11-16-2004, 12:44 AM
my '91 lx 1.9 has no egr.....my '94 pony 1.9 does.
11-19-2004, 08:07 AM
No check engine light after 3 days driving.
So, if you get an intermittent check engine light and sluggish moderate/higher RPM performance, the MAF sensor bears an inspection.
11-19-2004, 03:32 PM
I have a 93 1.9, sounds like the same thing happening to me, when I get the shaking I floor it and it stops also did you see any mpg improvement??? or notice it go down when the problem appeared?? I also have white smoke out the exhaust until it warms up
11-19-2004, 05:06 PM
gtown, I noticed the sluggishness/studdering/coughing above 2500 RPM under moderate to heavy load (trying to maintain 65 MPH going uphill). I never saw white smoke or decreased MPG. My problem was the MAF sensor showed too little air coming into the throttle body. After cleaning, it can now detect it and tells the PCM how to properly mix fuel and air.
Some cheap things to try first...
1. Inspect plugs and wires - Harbor Freight Tools had a great little spark tester for 99 cents - get the "straight" one not the "90 degree" (it's hard to get on plug)
2. Check MAF sensor
3. Fuel Injector Cleaner TL-3? - like $2.99 at Autozone.
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