I would like to know who on our forum or likewise actually have a Skyline..GTR or other?..Anyone care to share with us their actual driving impressions and such?..Thanks in advance..

Hi, I own a R33 GTR. The car is modded with a JUN ECU;Trust Profec B Boost Controller;OS Giken twin plate clutch;HKS air filter,Super Drager,hiper damper (with Eibach springs)and iridium plugs and a Trust oil cooler. NISMO 3 piece magnesium 18" rims are used with Bridgestone S-02 265/35/18 tyres.
Recent dyno posted approximately 311.7bhp and 34 kg torque on stock boost (0.75 kg); 352.3 bhp and 40 kg torque at 0.95 kg boost and 380.3 bhp and 44.1 kg torque at 1.12 kg boost. All readings are from the tyres. ( I wonder what the readings will be at the engine).
I am told by my mechanic that it is rather risky to run the car at 1.12 boost without modding the engine. Is this true? If so, can anybody tell me what it takes to run the car continuoslyt at 1.12 or even 1.2. I am thinking of changinh the cam,valve springs,piston and pulleys. Would that help? Future mods plan include installing HKS intercooler (can anybody suggest better intercooler or water spray for the intercooler).
The car is fast, even at stock boost. Handling is simply superb. Hard cornering feels very safe after the hiper damper was installed. The Eibach springs are however quite hard for normal roads resulting in bumpy rides on terrible roads. (my wife just hates this!). But on track ( I go to the Malaysian Sepang F1 track), the car is simply breathtaking!Floor the hammer on the unique twin straights and the car just flies to about 260kmh on 0.95 boost. Full braking, clutch the monster, down shift to 2nd at the S corner after the Start line - and you would know why the GTR is such a great car.
I sometime drive it to work. No problem at all. Will do 40-60 kmh on 4th or 5th. Parking - side or reverse - is easy. The clutch could be a bit tiring in long traffic jams though. Release it early and the car would stall!!
I thoroughly love the car. I could send a picture to this forum but I don't know how! (being computerphobic does not help!).
Enough bragging. Ciao!!

Hi R33,
I can't wait to see pics of your GT-R! :D
It's my favorite car!
To post the image you use special tags:
[img}http://www.your.image/url/here.jpg/[img}
BUT replace the } you see with ], I did so that it won't execute the code, otherwise it will try to show the image...
If this didn't make sense, then just go to this page:
http://af.datablocks.net/vbulletin/index.php3?action=bbcode

I can't help you with the boost question, but there are lots of people that can on this forum! just wait and they'll come ;)

Welcome!!!


[Edited by igor@af on 01-25-2001 at 11:44 PM]

R33..Your GT-R seems like it could rip most cars out there a new asshole man..That sounds like a seriously tuned RB26 powering that beast..Love to see some pics of it..

Hi everyone. I am trying to post my R33 pics. Sorry if it does not work out! So here it is.

[img]http:www.C\My Documents\untitled d.bmp.jpg/[img]

Ooops, no image!:confused: Let's try again. Bear with me please.

C:\My Documents\untitled d.bmp/images/vblogo/gif

I looked at the source of the page, you are trying to attach the pics that are on your hard drive.. you can't do that. Email Igor with the pics and he will put them on the server- he's nice :D

Thanks Autofan. That just shows how helpless I am when it comes to computers and the likes.:o
I have actually sent Igor the pic earlier. Hope he would post it here for me.
Well Kris, I am not actually a road racer but so far I have eaten up a F355 (overtook him in 3rd at 180kph and left him for dead in 4th!) and of course several WRX. On the track,the Lotus Elyse (I go to the track with the Lotus club) are no match with the GTR despite their superior handling. The Lancer Evo 6 has however left me for dead once on the highway :mad: So now I am going around town looking for him :)
Dyno test has however shown that the fuel is a bit lean on high rpm. Tried to correct it but the JUN ECU has been locked by the previous owner. Next thing to do is to ditch the JUN ECU, install the stock ECU and remap the whole thing with HKS F-Con V Pro. An HKS intercooler,oil pump and GT turbo are also in the plan within the next few months.
Will keep everyone posted.

here ya go R33:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/img/members/r33.jpg
sweet car man:D
i wish i owned an R33...

Sweet car! I would have chosen different rims, personally, but I really like the ones you have. NICE.

Well, that's exactly what one of my friends sais about the rims. I actually like the original R34 rims very much. Hmm....:cool:
BTW, thanks a bundle to Igor for posting the pic. Owe you one man ;).

you mean you owe me one GT-R?? :p
great!!! When will it be shipped to my door???
:D

Your car is badass! How much money have you put into mods for the car?

Igor, if ever you are in Ma laysia and it coincides with my track day, I promise you 10 laps in the GTR with all expenses on me!:D.

NissanZ, I'd lost count the cost! But I know I need another US15k or so to achieve what I want - 450whp continuos run with reliability. When I achieve that I would stop modding. Until of course a Diablo or F45/50 overtake me :D.

Hey, I manage to post some more pics of the car at http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/mlevinsen. Go there for more pics.

hey, if you want to run more boost, stuff like cams and pulleys wont do you any good..

what you need to do next is get the biggest intercooler you can find for your r33, that will lower the intake charge, and give you at least 30 more hp without even increasign the boost.. it will also allow you to run boost a little higher.. perhaps even at your 1.2 bar goal ( thats about 17.75 psi for you guys that dont know how to measure bar ).. if you get pistons, you should get ones with a lower compression ratio ( 8.0:1, or 8.5:1 would be ideal ), you could run much higher boost with that.. also, at this level, you should start to consider using a fuel controller ( along the lines of a apexi super afc ).. also, some cam gears, should be in order as one of your next mods, so you can advance or retard the timing to suit your higher boost needs.. you should also look into a high performance ignition system for a hotter spark.. this will make betetr use of the air/fuel you already use and also slightly improve your fuel economy ( look into a system from jacobs electronics, they make thebest import ignition systems IMO ).. also, when you upgrade the pistons, get some toal seal rings.. they will make sure all the boost stays in the combustion chamber where it belongs and make sure it the boost doesnt leak down into the oil pan or bottom end..

just stuff to consider.. if you want more info about the correct way to mod turbo cars, drop me an email.. there is way to much to write here.. lol..

kepone@flashcom.net

Thanks mate for the advice. I surely will take up your offer of writing to you personally.

I also have an R33. BTW, wasn't your car black or something R33?? I'm sure it was a darker color in the magazine it was in. I can't remember. BTW, your car is the one in the mag right?

Hi Racer, my car had never appeared in any mag. except when te previous owner was advertising it for sale last year. It was originally maroon in colour (apparently limited edition in Japan) but later repainted to the current Diamond Red.

Glad to know that you too drive a R33. Where are you? In Malaysia? If so, perhaps we can meet up or even go to the track together :D :) ;)

Originally posted by R33

Glad to know that you too drive a R33. Where are you? In Malaysia? If so, perhaps we can meet up or even go to the track together :D :) ;)

Nope. I live in America. There is this company called MotoRex which imports used R32s and R33s. They are used but they haven't been raced. Oh yeah, they also sell R34s but because they are newer they are a little on the expensive side. BTW, have you every lived in the U.K. or Canada or America? Anyway, it's a V-Spec right?

Ooops, thought you were close by!! I have not found the time (nor the money :mad: ) to go to the US. I have however lived in the UK for a year during my post grad days.

I have read about MotorRex on the net. Apparently the GTR imported by them are quite expensive 'coz they need to spend a lot of money to get the GTR legal in the US. I wonder why the Japanese decide not to sell GTRs in the US. Probably to maintain this mysterious aura of the GTR to thereby induce popularity. If so, then you Americans are at the losing end. On the other hand, perhaps the Japanese are losing as well. Imagine the potential market for the GTR in the US. Must be astronomical!!

BTW, don't you find it cumbersome to drive a right hander in the US? What more with a car as big and heavy as the R33?
I can imagine the attention that you (and the car) get. Here in Malaysia, people are reduced to dickheads when they see a GTR :mad: It's rather annoying when the Beamers,Mercs sports,civics and the like come licking the rear asking for a race!

You must go to the track a lot. Otherwise the GTR would be underutilised in the US. Tell us more about your car and the mods. Would like to exchange notes on the mods. A pic would be nice too.

Forgot to answer Racer's question. Yes, my car is V-Spec. Despite that, the car is a bit heavy. Both me and my mechanic are now sourcing for suppliers of carbon fiber body parts for the GTR. If possible, I want to replace the bonnet (already made of aluminium), boot lid and the doors with carbon fiber parts. Any idea where to get them?

No offense to Kepone, but there is quite a bit more to modding your car than what you (Kepone) mentioned.

For instance, ignition: Factory nissan bits on your car are great. Wires/plugs only thing I'd think about replacing here. I know a few 850+hp cars doing fine with stock coils.

Big intercooler: Definetely.

20psi on stock internals really isn't a problem as long as the fuel/ignition is tuned properly and you have low enough intake temps. Lower intake temps at 20psi could also come about with larger turbos (or single turbo) with mild to large changes in the way the car responds, depending on the final combination.

450RWHP is about where I'd contemplate a turbo upgrade anyways. Many stock rb26dett's have hit that number with stock turbochargers, but a more efficient (Larger single/upgraded twins) will still make more top end power, all other things equal.

Let me know if you'd care to email me privately, R33 or Kepone or anyone, really.


Side note:
Many different AWD cars have appeal to me, but I personally prefer light/rwd cars. 20b 3 rotor Rx-7's for instance. I'd like the rb25 or rb26 in something RWD and a bit lighter, maybe the earlier 82+ (DR30?) skyline, a lightened GTS R32, or a Silvia. Yeah, that's it.... ;-)

Does the 99+ Rx-7 still hold some track records for bone-stock-factory cars against even the mighty GT-R in Japan?

Thanks Faster for the input. Appreciate it very much.

450rwhp on stock turbo? Wow? Are these cars reliable? That would be running it close to 1.4 bar (20psi). I don't think it would be reliable,especially over here where ambient heat is much higher. Personally, I doubt whether the stock ceramic turbo could withstand that kind of boost continuously for a long time. I could be wrong though :).

On the ignition, I agree that changing the coils and cables would not help much. But what about the firing and voltage?

Okay. I want to contact you (Faster7) personally. Let me know how.

Qkdsm@hotmail.com is one email address you can contact me at.

Firing and voltage? Not sure what you're asking. Well, tuned timing, proper tuning of fuel, and keeping the charge temperature down are the keys here.

Originally posted by R33
Thanks Faster for the input. Appreciate it very much.

450rwhp on stock turbo? Wow? Are these cars reliable? That would be running it close to 1.4 bar (20psi). I don't think it would be reliable,especially over here where ambient heat is much higher. Personally, I doubt whether the stock ceramic turbo could withstand that kind of boost continuously for a long time. I could be wrong though :).

On the ignition, I agree that changing the coils and cables would not help much. But what about the firing and voltage?

Okay. I want to contact you (Faster7) personally. Let me know how.

Here are my mods, 17x9 and 17x8 SPARCO wheels, HKS super dragger exhaust, OS Giken 5 speed gearbox, 1st,2nd and 3rd shorter than kit, OS Giken Triple plate clutch, Blitz Air intake conversion to use K&N pod filters, Blitz MSTT Turbo timer, GTR Link computer, Veilside FRP bonnet amd brand new black paint. I also added a few more things but I can't remember them all. It dynos @ app. 430bhp. It fast my friend. :) And ya. It is kinda' wierd diving it right sided. But it isn't a daily driver or anything like that, I have other cars for what I call "sllllllllllowwwww" transportation. Sorry I have no pics of it though. Anyway, what do you guys get for quarter mile?

Thanks.

BTW, what do you mean by firing and voltage?

Racer20.....430whp??? Yeeehaw....that's what I call kickass man....:cool: BTW, what's GTR computer link? I notice the engine innards are stock. So is the turbo. What bar boost are you running the car at? Do you have any reliability problem with that kind of power when the stock engine is untouched? You have not changed the suspension as well. How does the stock suspension behave on track with that kind of power?

Firing and voltage. I don't really know why I used those words! What I mean is wouldn't there be a need to ensure stable voltage supply to the spark plugs to induce sufficient firing (by replacing the stock ignition system with a better one)?

My car will be in the workshop early March for remapping/oil cooler/intercooler jobs. Will report the result.

That's my problem. My suspension is stock. But I hardly ever drive it hard around the corners. BTW, what is your displacment for your GTR, R33?

i know that a dude named kingtut at the carforums and supercars board has a r32 gt st im not sure if he has made his way over here yet. his car is pretty sweet also.

I got to ride in a R32. It had something like 380lb.-ft.. Awesome car, but mine gives more of a wiplash.

The r32 handles really well. Lighter and smaller body. Less understeer. The r33 feels gigantic in comparison. I have now dumped the JUN ecu. In come the original ecu remapped by teh HKS F Con V. Also installed were HKS GT intercooler and oil cooler. The car feels a lot smoother now and throtle response a lot better. But still hasn't achieved 450 hp like yours Racer:mad:
Now, stages 3 and 4 will be done in the next year or so. Hope to achieve 550-six hundred whp:D :D By the way, Racer, do you use octane booster?

Sorry I'm such an ass/arse. But, what do you mean octane fuel ?

What is the octane level in the US fuel? It's 97 in over here in Malaysia. The problem with Japanese imports is that the engine is tuned to tha Japanese 100 octane fuel:mad: When the engine is run on lower octane fuel, detonation could take place, especially when the boost is high. The problem is really bad in Australia where the octane level is 95! The normal solution is to restrict the boost level. Another solution is the addition of octane booster in the fuel. I don't do that everyday as 97 octane is acceptable for everyday use at the boost level I am now running. But on track days, I have to add the juice.

Then, no. I don't but I'm guessing I should used it since I mostly use my GTR for the track. :rolleyes: :sun: :D

Racer:smoka:

Tell me when you use the octane booster. How your car reacts to it. I use Wynn's Race Formula Boost and sometime HKS. HKS is damn expensive though. Do fill me up on the brand you use so that comparison could be made.:licker: BTW, did you know that Apexi has a kit for the GTR R33 for up to six hundred hp? Cost the equivalent of USD8 grand over here. I am seriously thinking about it now:D :devil: Can't wait to smoke them tarmac:D

Apxi. Cool. :wave: I was considering a Vailside or WestWings. Is the Apxi one on there web site? Let me check... :smoker2:

Edit: "Apxi" = Apexi :sun:

Hi Racy, interested in the kit? Sure you are:sun: It's not in the Apexi website. You could find it at www.speedworks.com my in the "performance kit for popular cars" section. I think you should do it first so that you could tell me the performance of the kit :D ;) But I reckon your suspension has to be upgraded to hold that kind of power.

Currently, I can't get to the site. :( It doesn't work for me. But I guess I should upgrade my suspension first. :bandit: umm, do you know a good tuner? :D
BTW, I'm alos planning on purchusing a new tv in a few months so my GTR will probably be :alien: ated by me.

Sorry Racer, I missed a dot in the URL. It's www.speedworks.com.my. I went there yesterday. The kit includes: twin turbos/downpipe/induction kit (together with the air filters)/all pipings/wastegate/550cc injectors/high pressure fuel pump/GT cam shafts/adjustable cam pulleys. The Apexi power fc ecu is recomended, so you have to buy this too. In fact in Mlalaysia, you need this ecu because the tuner refuses to tune it using my F Con!! But the tuner did not seem to know his stuff. He did not say that the gasket and pistons need changing. I don't think the standard gasket and pistons could take six hundred horses without breaking! I just don't trust him:o :o I suppose you can get a better tuner over there who could install this kit properly. Enjoy:frog:
As you know, I use HKS Hiper Damper with Eibach springs on my GTR. They are tuned really well to provide a good street ride and track drive. They are height adjustable too. Next week I am going to improve the handling further by installing HKS torque controller. This stuff would enable me to move the torque to the front tyre as and when needed (unlike the stock unit which pushes the torque to the front toooooo late while cornering). I even could program it according to the track I am on! Or for the rain! Fun fun fun.....










:licker: :licker: :licker: :flash: :sun: :frog: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger:

Thanks dude. :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: Man I LOVE that one. Anyway, how much was that suspension upgrade? BTW, for excellent stoping power what do you recomend?

Thank you for your time. :flipa: :flipa: :flipa: (like that one too :D )

The Hiper Damper and Eibach springs cost me circa USD 3600. Damn expensive but worth it. I have yet to change the brake but my friend installed a set of AP Racing 6 pistons calipers and 14 inch pads on his GTR and they are just the best! Cost about USD 4500 though!

I am goint to install the HKS Electronic Torque Controller which is going to improve the handling further. It just cost USD 700. A guy in Australia improved his GTR's handling just by dabbling the GTR's lateral sensor. Go to www.autospeed.com/A_0060/article.html to read about his DIY which really improved the handling. You could try it yourself if you are ok with those kind of stuff. As for me, I am useless at those thing, so I will install the HKS thingy soon! :licker: :smoker2: :sun:

Thats cool. Does the torque converter give you more low end torque or is it just for handling characteristics.

Just for the handling. You can program when and how much torque should come to the front. You can also turn your GTR into an AWD car all the time if you want:sun: Or turn your GTR into an AWD only in the rain:smoker2: Or leave it on AUTO mod where the unit will decide by itself based on yoyur driving characteristic. All in all, it's better than the stock 4WD. For another USD180, you can install another thingy to work with the ETC. This thingy can be programed to distribute torque during drag race. Eg: you can decide to distribute 30% of the torque to the front when you release the clutch at the start of a drag and let all the torque go to the rear at say 80kph after "take off":frog: On that program, my friend's GTR recorded 4.2 sec from 0-100kph! And his GTR is supposed to be slightly less powerful to mind! Imagine the time on your 420hp GTR!:finger: :devil: :cool: :D

Wow. Who sells this again??? :confused: :smoker: :smoker: :sun: :wave:

HKS my friend. And if I am not mistaken, Blitz also has an aftermarket torque controller. But I have not seen them. I am installing the HKS unit sometime this or next week. Perhaps you want to wait for my report on its performance before deciding:smoker2:

Sweetness my friend. Just post a thread when your ready to review. Maybe other GTR owners would like to here your review. ;)

At the time of writing this post, my GTR is being fitted with the ETC and also a new ignition management system! Will report the performance gradually, especially after next Sunday (my track day):D Pray that it work:cool:

I hope so. I'm sure it'll work well. HKS always has nice stuff. BTW, How many inches is your fart pipe?? And, if you don't mind me asking, do you even like fart pipes? I mean, they are more efficent but aren't they a little stupid looking? I'd much rather have 4 normal pipes. But then again, turbos work of the exaust... does that even make a difference?? :D

Hi Racy, I'd got the Electronic Torque Split Controller installed on trial. I am now running the car on AWD all the time. Still experimenting with the percentage of torque at the front. Currently trying 20% of tirque in front. Cornering feels much better with a lot of grip when coming out of the corner. But have not tried it on track yet. Will report after track day this month.

The ETC comes in 2 small boxes - one is mounted somewhere in the car (connected to the drivetrain I suppose) and the other one (the controller) is mounted at a place accessible to the driver. The controller has 3 knobs (silver colored - plastic!!!). The left knob is for on/off/auto mode. The middle one is to control the percentage of the torque to be split to the front (to the nearest 10). Up to 50% can be split. The right knob is for fine tuning. If you choose 20% through the middle knob, you can increase it to say 23% by turning the right knob to 3.

The Auto mode - well I don't know how it work yet! The mid knob also has an "option" output. If you are using the Drag Controller (another box!) than the mid knob has to be turned to "option". The Drag Contoller is about USD 180. What it does is to enable you to decide when to release the whole torque to the rear in a drag. I don't do that much drag so I don't install this one. My friend uses this and he clockes 4.2 sec!:eek:

Usage is easy. The only problem is the ETC cannot be "on" when you are u-turning! The car will stop in the middle of u-turning:mad: or when you are side or reverse parking:o :o So, you always have to remember to switch it off before doing those stuff. That's a bit of a drag!

Will report the performance once I get used to it and also after my track day this month. Track day scheduled this Sunday is cancelled:mad: :mad:

Ciao.:cool:

Thanks. I guess I can deal with the plastic but... it the time when you switch it off and on in nano seconds or is there a lag of a few seconds? :)
Thanks.

Racy, there's absolutely no lag between switching on and off. The torque transfer is immediate and smooth except when the car already stops midway through a u-turn - if you switch it of at this time, the car jerks a tiny wee bit when the torque is transferred to the rear. Nothing dramatic though. But the stopping in the middle of the u-turn is dramatic :D
I have no problem with the plastic knobs as well. But let say your fingers are wet,or oily or sweaty, (for whatever reason), it's quite an effort to turn the knob:(

Cool. My hands used to get sweaty while on the track sometimes but I just got some gloves that don't let my hands slip. :D

I own a vl commodore with a gtr engine if that helps

whats a commodore? Is it a Holden?

holden (gm in Australia), released the VL in 1986, it had a nissan RB30E and RB30ET. This engine was chosen as a replacement as the holden 3.3L six ran on leaded and it cost way to much to convert to unlead. Holden designed the turbo engine though, as the skyline that had the same engine never had a turbo variant (in Australia atleast, don't know about the rest of the world though), and since all the RB series engine have the same shape bottom engine and most of the parts are interchangable, engine conversions are piss easy. The gear boxes, heads etc, is interchangable. The RB26DETT bolted in took about a 2 months to do (didn't work all the time), only problem, the gearbox and diff shit them selves. Along cam the Getrag speeder, had to modify the tunnel (used a big hammer HEHE :P), diff is now another vl turbo, as I think the prob was the the 5 grand clutch drop. :bandit:

Cool. My freind who lives in Austrialia has a new HSV GTS or something. Badass car with a Corvette LS1. Very fast. :) But not faster than my car. lol :D

I ordered my R34 V-spec II 2 weeks ago and I will have it in August.:licker:

Welcome to AF Initial_E!
Where are you at?
US? Australia?

I live in Canada, but I travel back and forth to Hong Kong a lot since my family is there. My car is ordered in Hong Kong.

ah,
are you going to bring it to Canada afterwards?

I don't think I could. :(

is it right hand drive in Hong Kong? i forget :p

if you do bring it to this side of the world, would you drive ti to new jersey, i would love to see it, or you could just post a picture:D

igor@af - Yes, it is RHD in Hong Kong. I was told that it comes with CF hood, more torque and different cluster. My wife and I are getting excited to see it in Aug.

200SX - If I do bring it to the States, I would bring it to LA because my sister is living there. However, I don't have plan for that yet. Once I see the car, I am sure I would take a lot of pics and videos as well. I would like to try it on those mountain roads in HK. I want to see how it handles on those tight corners and narrow streets.:)

that sounds dangerous, please don't crash it:(

Im not sure if someone replied or not but the rb26 can handle 1.12 its the turbos you have to watch. as long as you have the fuel and upgraded turbos the 2.6 is good for 500hp (reliable street everyday driver) ive seen it in japan.

With spot on tuning the RB 26 stock bottom end is able to take anywhere upto 1.8/1.9 bar. Even with larger turbo's, however compression must be lowered and fuel upgraded.

Standard GTR turbo's are physically not able to take more than 1 bar. if you are doing so, you are very lucky the exhaust wheel is not falling off YET! This is a fact. It has nothing to do with timing just the way it is made.

Lastly, to sustain higher power outputs, the engine has to be running at optimum levels, oil changed maxmimum every 5,000kms, inlet temp lowered (I/cooler) and engine oil cooled as it will help with the cooling of the pistons and running gear. FYI, RB26 Pistons have an oil squirter that squirts oil to the pistons to cool it down. Only other thing u have to worry about is the breaking of the running components. Ive done 2 transmissions, 1 rear diff and clutch in less than 10,000kms. My torque figures are abve 60!

I didn't read EVERY single post in this headliner....cause it's a lot of sh*t! But basically I'll tell you what you need to do to get to 500HP to the wheels...that's where I'm at now.

Don't listen to the hype, the intercooler and radiator were WAY overdesigned on the GTR....the only reason the big names change them is to have THEIR own stuff on it to promote sales. If you want the looks...go pick up some hi-temp silver paint. Five minute job and everybody thinks I have the Greddy Intercooler...but I do my best to NOT promote aftermarket intercoolers.

550-600 is the max you should do on stock internals (w/ exception of the Camshafts....the dragers out here you the stock ones because they're cheaper....and they often survive (1100hp+)

Things you DON'T need to change: Intercooler, Radiator, Rods, crank, flywheel, oil pump, Induction piping, pistons (pretty much the entire engine itself minus the turbos)

Things you HAVE to change: turbos, add turbo controller, Computer fuel map, injectors, (fuel pump and adjustable regulator recommended), metal gasket, clutch, exhaust, an accurate boost guage...I think that's about it. If you want a daily driver, you should get an oil cooler....you'll run your oil temp close to 100 C's without one.

Things I changed: 2.7L bore-up (N1 pistons), Tomei metal head, Sard 534cc injectors, Nismo Fuel pump, all Nismo belts, N1 oil pump, Greddy oil Catch tank, HKS 2540 turbos, Nissan computer tune, Greddy secondary hi-flow fuel filter, Sard adjustable fuel regulator, HKS Super Drager exhaust,front and straight pipes, HKS intake piping w/hyper flow filters, Greddy Oil cooler, Greddy/Trust Boost controller....and for the outside...Veilside C1 wing, front and rear faschia's, Greddy Boost guage, Razo shifter, Lanzo pedals, and Nismo guage cluster (but want to upgrade to Veilside Euro). My biggest fallback are the stock rims. It's make the drive a little skittish. I only boost 1.0 bar and it's a daily driver....I'm small potatoes compared to some of the stuff I see out here....You can see my car here:

http://www.speedoptions.com/community_driverprofiles_view.asp?driverprofile_id =18912

By the way....ALL my mods (minus the 3200 dollar turbos) cost just under 10K US. So if you're paying 15k US to further upgrade an already somewhat upgraded car to 500HP....you're gettin' RIPPED OFF!

Hello,

I live in the US, and own an R32 GTR. The car is currently being prepped for all out horsepower and drag racing.

We should be ready later this year to start racing, it should be fun.

Personally, I love the car, how it handles, how it pulls, and especially the spooling of the turbos. Well, in a couple weeks, the spooling of the Turbo (singular, hehe)

Welcome to AF guys!
We hope we can learn a lot from you.... [considering I plan to get a GT-R pretty soon...;)]

Kimi wa nihongo shabereru?
Ore wa nihon ni rokunenkan sunda. kyoto ni ihcinen to tusukuba shi, ibaraki ken [60 miles from tokyo] in go nenkan.

For hopeless people who don't know Japanese:p

Do you speak Japanese?
I lived in Japan for 6 years. 1 year in Kyoto and 5 years in Tsukuba city, Ibaraki prefecture [60 miles from tokyo]

:)

Originally posted by Gtr2.7L
I didn't read EVERY single post in this headliner....cause it's a lot of sh*t! But basically I'll tell you what you need to do to get to 500HP to the wheels...that's where I'm at now.

Don't listen to the hype, the intercooler and radiator were WAY overdesigned on the GTR....the only reason the big names change them is to have THEIR own stuff on it to promote sales. If you want the looks...go pick up some hi-temp silver paint. Five minute job and everybody thinks I have the Greddy Intercooler...but I do my best to NOT promote aftermarket intercoolers.

550-600 is the max you should do on stock internals (w/ exception of the Camshafts....the dragers out here you the stock ones because they're cheaper....and they often survive (1100hp+)

Things you DON'T need to change: Intercooler, Radiator, Rods, crank, flywheel, oil pump, Induction piping, pistons (pretty much the entire engine itself minus the turbos)

Things you HAVE to change: turbos, add turbo controller, Computer fuel map, injectors, (fuel pump and adjustable regulator recommended), metal gasket, clutch, exhaust, an accurate boost guage...I think that's about it. If you want a daily driver, you should get an oil cooler....you'll run your oil temp close to 100 C's without one.


http://www.speedoptions.com/community_driverprofiles_view.asp?driverprofile_id =18912

hahahaha... :o
I think you are either way right or way wrong... im guessing wrong... you may have gotten 500hp out of that car of your but oviously not the right way.. i suppose you are going to say u run quite a low boost again... i have bench flowed the GTR plenum and the Intercooler and let me tell you, there is absolutely no way it is capable of cooling down or pass trough the amount of pressure in what is needed to run 500plus... the max would be around 450hp...

"Things you DON'T need to change: Intercooler, Radiator, Rods, crank, flywheel, oil pump, Induction piping, pistons (pretty much the entire engine itself minus the turbos)"

why the hell did u change ures then? why change anything except the turbo? lets just slap alot of boost, drill a hole in the intake plenum and fit another nissan injector ( so we are not using the branded ones) and tune the standard ecu. Wake up and think b4 u say things... the cheap way may work for some who is foolish to believe it but i dont think so......


Example, Nissan in Australia changed the Radiator, Oil cooler and a few other items bcos of the difference in heat in Australia. THIS WAS FOR A STOCK CAR WITH STOCK BOOST!! " WAY OVERSIZED" u say?

LASTLY, i just read your car info... HKS 2540 Capable of 800HP between them huh? what are u on? now i know ure naive.... the turbo's are only rated at 340ps MAX.. thats 680ps.... convert that to hp from ps and u get maybe 650hp!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and you say 500HP at the wheels??

"I didn't read EVERY single post in this headliner....cause it's a lot of sh*t! But basically I'll tell you what you need to do to get to 500HP to the wheels...that's where I'm at now."

im presuming you mean @ 4 WHEELS because its a GTR.. so 500HP +15% (GTR loss to the front) Equals 575HP @ the rear..
575HP plus 30% (power at the engine) =

747.5HP!!!
and all with stock parts.....
Do u really know what ure talking about?

There is another GTR with similar work to mine down here (with the exception of the 2.7L bore-up and 2530 vice 2540 turbines) who has dynoed his car up in the Yokohama SuperAutobacs at 450 PS to the wheels. Could I get another 50 HP from the bore-up and 2540's...I think so. The majority of my tuning was done by a local who was a racing team member for Nissan in the late eighties and early nineties who specializes in Skylines.
I beefed up my engine as I want to use it as a daily driver, quarter miling, and circuit racing. No reason to get all pissy.

I got all "pissy" because i read your post and it was absolute garbage... i go thu forums like this to learn from others with experiences and discuss but yours was an absolute joke... all of your points were wrong and hearsay....

some will actually take what u say as guidance and make a big mistake.. and again 450ps at the wheel?? thats 450 ps at the engine buddy...

Negative, he posted 450ps at the wheels, est 537ps at the crank. That was at 1.1 Bar. My "estimate" for my car is based on 1.2 Bar. I finished my rebuild in July and have just passed 1k kils in the last two weeks. I'm trying to get up to Yokohama this weekend to verify. If it comes up short, I'll let you know....I plan on posting the results on the SO website....but like I said, my friend's 32 posted 450.
I'm assuming when you say "low boost" you mean 1.4 or less....or do you mean .7 or less.

Here's a small example for you....Hyper Rev magazine...I'm sure you know what I'm talking about....Vol 56, pg 25 (Border). Completely stock engine (save R34 N1 Turbos,80 pi exhaust, stock computer tune and 550 cc injectors) 500 ps @ 1.2 Bar. Now, as you say you know so much about GTR's...you know the N1's are the same size as stock, only difference is ball bearings and metal composition.
Now....lower your compression by adding a thicker metal head, increase your turbine size 20%, increase your displacement by 100cc's, add Iridium 9's. What do you think that will do?

Where are you from anyway?

:flipa: hahahhahaha.......................... your what we call a f*** wit... thinks he know what he is talking about but dont know jack.... let me tell u my friend, I HAVE THE FREAKIN N1 GTR Turbo's here right now... They are form ZENITANI in OSAKA..... they are the same sizing as the GT25 NOT the Standard.. standards are not .60...... hahahahhaah want me to humiliate you more?? shall i attach pics of standard and NI with the Nissan Part No on the turbo just to prove it??? Look stop talking and start learning... go hit the books....

To those who may be offended by all this shit... im sorry but this guy is just pissing me off with all his rubbish & crap....

You guys know more about this stuff than I do.

Feel free to keep your posts going, because I am learning. Just try to keep it clean for the kiddies that are on here.

Well, if I remember what JUN USA told me about the N1 Turbo's, will put about about 250 HP each, max. and making some assumptions about what I just learned from N/A in another thread, that can't be much more than about 380 HP to the wheels, if even that.

Just my $.02

hahhaha....How old are you?

Post the pics.....so we can all learn something. You still haven't explained to me why my HP estimates, or my friend's Dyno results are false. It's a little hard argue against someone who has seen the data.
I'm offering information to someone who wanted 500Hp. If he wanted 800 or 1000 my advice would have been different. I chose to stop at around 500 at the wheels....I personally don't need any more than that. My build was designed around 500.....not eventually leading to xxxx hp. So I object to you saying my car was built "the wrong" or "the cheap" way. Did I have to go 2.7 to get 500....no, but I wanted more torque with less engine stress....which is why I only need 1.2 Bar. But then again, you know EVERYTHING, the incorrect and correct ways, to tuning the GTR. Nevermind there's literally hundreds of ways to do it.
.....and you never answered my question....where are you from? Do you live in Japan? or Australia? Do you own a GTR? Show us your pics. I have no desire to be hostile....stop making this a "I'm right, you're wrong" deal and just maybe we could learn from each other.

You are cheapand stupid, naive, ignorant... and if u want to see my car go to the Thread i started... idiot... dont waste my time..

Plus if i post the pics of the NI Turbo.... u better tell everyone ure an idiot... fools like u dont deserve to drive a GTR...

By all means. I can handle being wrong...it certainly wouldn't be the first time. Anything else you would like to call me? Or can we dispense with that business and get into the information side of things?

N/A, I'd really prefer you stop the bashing. I'm sure there ARE a lot of things that you guys would agree on :)

and just to cheer both of you guys up,

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/arguing.jpg

:D

That's the second time I've seen that...and although it's a bit cruel, I just can't help but laugh!

all i can say is I WANT A SKYLINE!:bloated:

Hi GTr2.7L - gosh...can't u make your name any more difficult?:D You have liven up this forum. Good.
Now, I have a 33 GTR and it is now at the workshop for a 600 hp job. I am aiming for about 500-520 at the wheel. It is a daily driver and I want a lot of usable torque.I am installing among others 2540s. I am interested to know from u how the 2540s behave. Can u tell me? Is there a lot of lag? What rpm do u achieve full boost of 1.2bar and peak torque? What's the peak torque?
If u see my previous posts, I'd changed the 'cooler to a HKS GT. I need that b'coz M'sia is a hot country. Also installed is an HKS oil cooler. It helps a lot. Before it, the oil temp on track was 120C! Now it is 110C. Also installed is ARC radiator. Damn good. After installation, it pushed the oil temp to 100C. That's a decrease of 10C. I think the radiator managed to keep the engine much cooler thereby taking a lot of heat load from the oil.
What about your gearbox? Any problem with the power you have? Please tell me. BTW, can u post your dyno chart? It would be interesting to see the power delivery.
Cheers.

That's the BIG question on everyone's mind. TM's been asking me to do the Dyno so he can see how much torque the bore-up gave me. The way my car is set up right now, 1.0 bar runs at 5300 with 1.2 bar at 6400. The N1's allegedly give me an 8500 redline....but I've also heard the con rods being the weak point.....and unfortunately I decided against the extra 2400 bucks (DAMN!). I try to never rev past 8k. My boost starts creepin at about 3200 with noticible kick around 3800. Above 4k and I'm gone! I squeel through first and second, and pull a pretty good 4 wheel chirp in third....keep in mind I'm rolling on stock 16 rims with 225's (going to have to change that!). The car feels REALLY squirrely when it's on it's haunches, but I'm thinking about picking up the HKS Hyper Dampers to fix that problem. I don't like my brakes....pretty subject to fade after two quarters....I'm trying to pick up US spec Carbon Mettalics, and steel lines (goin DOT 4)....but I don't know if I want to deal with the steel squeel when I'm driving in the streets.
So far it has been a daily driver....no too much of a problem until about four weeks ago (before my oil cooler) when it was 40 deg C, I had to short-pop the hood and turn off the A/C when I was idling at a stop light (almost 110 C oil...and I'm guessing just about as close to 100C water temp as I could get). Now it's no sweat....latest comparison 38C with A/C pumpin in the same stoplight in the sun I'm running about 100C.

Oh yeah, check this....my tuner has been working on a '75 Prince (he's japanese and couldn't remember the word Prince....so he called it "Son of Queen!" GTR (white) to pump it up. It's as beatiful to me as a 67 vette or classic charger. The engine bay is amazing......just like old school....open it up and there it is......ENGINE. Anything else in there? Sure.....radiator, and a battery.....any questions? LOL! I forgot my damn camera last time I was there.....but I'll have to have him call me when it comes in again.

....and I know there are those who are going to jump through their rears to tell me I'm full of it, but my buddy Collin found out Greddy's Intercooler (supposed to be the bomb) didn't do much for him. To make a long story short, he took his car camping (his friend with a low rollin RX-7 said "I did it, so I'm sure you can") and ended up slamming the fascia and intercooler into the ground, cracking both severely. He decided since a new stock vs Greddy were only about 300 dollars different in price he would go with the Greddy. The car didn't post any noticible gains. On another note, Mine's claims the stock air meters can only measure enough air for 450 hp....they are to a degree correct....however, most tuners over here run so rich it doesn't pose a problem. IE after boost comes on, the relationship between engine output, exhaust pressure, and turbo output become almost linear, enough so they tell the computer to disregard air meter inputs and chuck in fuel. Makes for some very impressive fire-balls! LOL! The inputs come into play again when you lay off the boost....and of course when you do that, your air flow comes under 1400 kg/h (or whatever that damn unit is for volumetric flow) and is measured again. I didn't believe my tuner until I lost both my air meters (see post 93 Skyline) and the only time my car wouldn't give me problems was when I was on boost. Then it all started making sense.

Well this has been a colorful post indeed:rolleyes:

Well Gtr2.7L, it sounds like you know what you are doing and you are enjoying your car so be it:D I also like the fact that you kept your cool:sun: Kudo's.

More importantly tho NEXT TIME TAKE A DAMN CAMERA TO THE SHOP!!!!!:D :D :D :D

hehehe I love the classic Prince model, my wife thinks I'm nuts. She love's the R32, 33 and 34 (the most), but doesn't understand the love I have for the originals. Back when I lived in Japan (Okinawa) the first car I ever drove was a Prince Skyline, things have never been the same since:devil:

Good luck on the work you are doing with your car and please do post your results, the original digital copy would be best or even scanned along with pictures of you and your car on the dyno. No one can call you a liar if you are bold enough to put the numbers up:frog:

Hey...who knows...the guy might be right. Like I said, my estimates are based on what I've seen around me. I'll post my results Hi or Lo so everyone can see........SHOW NO FEAR....either way I've still got a GTR right? LOL!

Originally posted by Gtr2.7L
....either way I've still got a GTR right? LOL!

Hahahaha:lol2: I hate you, I truly do:lol2::devil:

OK now for all the kids taking notes, THAT is sarcasm:devil:

R33 : I love your car and da Nismo wheels man! :D U speak Malay? :P hohoho...

Superposition (which position is that?:confused: :D :devil: ), thanks for the compliment mate. Not many people like those wheels on my GTR. They just don't gel with the body paint. Personally, if I have the money, I would change them to some gold colored wheels. Wanna buy mine?:D

PS are you from M'sia? Sudah tentu gua boleh cakap Melayu laa...

R33 : Wahahaha...no posotion :P Heck, those are nice guy! Well tru, doesnt match with the paint...but *shrugs* get the body painted with silver or somethin...they'll look darn nice! :D

And no I'm not Malaysian, I'm Indonesian....but I live in Canada. Do you understand Bahasa Indonesia? :smoker:

So how much RM did u have to pay for you car? Heheh, I wish I could buy yer wheels...really man, how I wish. :)

R33 : Oh by the way Datuk, check this out :

http://www.volkracing.co.jp/lineup/nismo/gt4.htm

The wheel on the left would prolly suit your car.

.... lalu kirimkan Nismo GT1 kamu ke Canada...hahaha :D

I think the rims look perfect. I would not change a thing.

Thanks buds for the compliments. New pictures will be posted next mth when the car is ready with its 600 bhp job.:D

I dont own a Skyline but my neighbor owns a Pearl White R32 Skyline stock except for the rims and an exhaust motorex put on to make the car street legal actually lowers performance

here are some pics he let me take
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/pef235501019ab6ac118bfe0ab9b127a4/fe4ef5bf.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/p431009cc646e3184ce2975f4cc729aad/fe4ef5c1.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/p0c6845b4c4a2c78cb3626ed5bc8741a9/fe4ef5bd.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/p46f484c5b1f69d68e49e90a1edebda8b/fe4ef5bb.jpg.orig.jpg

it was dark so they turned out really bad but hey it's a skyline :D

Wow, those are nice. I thought MotoRex was California-only. Is that right? Either way, your neighbor went out of his way for that car! :D

Unfortunately i sold my R32 GT-R about 18 mths ago to start a new business venture...:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: I really miss it too.. *sob sob*


check my website for pics..

Hey, that's Nightmares car at night. Man, still looks shape as HELL.

Southo : I'm sorry to hear that man but I hope your new business venture buys u a R-34 / 35 pretty soon :D

Oh one question, how much AUS$ would a used R-32 cost?

Hi Peoples,

Good to see that the Skyline GTR has become known over there in the US of A.

I am trying to attach a photo of my GTR, which has been off the road now for some 3months due to "oil surge" occuring on the race track and thus starving the big end bearing of oil causing major engine destruction. The rebuild will include 1mm oversized forged pistons (retaining standard compression), a baffled sump to combat the abovementioned problem, strengthed conrod bolts, port & polished head, o-ringed block, new crank, new bearings, adjustable cam wheels retaining standard cams, Apexi power FC ECU and twin plate OS Giken clutch. Still trying to decide on the turbo's. Will keep you posted on power outputs.

Cheers

VERY NICE!

Sorry, to here about the oiling problem, but it sounds like you are going to have that under control.

Originally posted by stugtr
Hi Peoples,

Good to see that the Skyline GTR has become known over there in the US of A.

I am trying to attach a photo of my GTR, which has been off the road now for some 3months due to "oil surge" occuring on the race track and thus starving the big end bearing of oil causing major engine destruction. The rebuild will include 1mm oversized forged pistons (retaining standard compression), a baffled sump to combat the abovementioned problem, strengthed conrod bolts, port & polished head, o-ringed block, new crank, new bearings, adjustable cam wheels retaining standard cams, Apexi power FC ECU and twin plate OS Giken clutch. Still trying to decide on the turbo's. Will keep you posted on power outputs.

Cheers
HEY! stugtr

Nice R32! I've seen your GTR in the picture archives in a few places! I just wanted you to know that your GTR was one of the ones that helped me decided on an R32. I wanted an R32 but as you know pictures do the car justice and R33's seem to take a better picture but yours looked great!:) Because of that I kept the faith and went back with my first choice! And this how my R32 is turning out so far!

Thanks Mate!
http://www.z32.org/unsorted/skylinef1.jpg

See, now that's not the way to do a R32 GT-R.

Nightmare, I really think you need to re-think what you have done to that car, geez it looks like total doggie poop:D

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
See, now that's not the way to do a R32 GT-R.

Nightmare, I really think you need to re-think what you have done to that car, geez it looks like total doggie poop:D

haha, thanks:finger:

NIGHTMARE : Dont listen to SkylineUSA :devil: , but change the wheels man!! :frog:

yea, i totally agree with SkylineUSA,

Nightmare's GT-R = :apuke:

like totally :rolleyes:

Don't change the tires, don't do anything, not worth your time. Here let me just help you out and take it off your hands. You have suffered enough. Just give me your car and you will feel so much better.:D

Nightmare, your R32 is a nightmare man.....:D I mean, if it comes from the rear of my 33, it gonna be a nightmare for me!!Absolutely gorgeous GTR. Love your wheels. Wanna exchange with mine?:D
Stugtr : what exactly caused the surged? Is it the oil pump? I am now doing a big horse job on my car and I am putting among others HKS high flow oil pump. Some people say it's not necessary but I don't want to take any chances especially on the track, so I change it. Cost a bomb!

Nightmare,

Great to here that a simple photo helped you in your decision. Where have you seen photo's of my car before as I have never seen them??. Your car looks great you made the right choice with the R32 well thats my preference anyway. Actually I decided to buy the wheels on my car due to seeing them on a white 32 like yours.
Where are u located??

R33,
Well u have touched on an interesting subject and one i have received numerous advice on and differing opionions. First of all the Oil Surge was caused on the race track due to oil surging in the sump during fast cornering ie the oil moves to one side of the sump and the oil pickup is starved of oil and because your bearings are held together by oil pressure they don't like being starved of oil and just let go. This is fact with GTR's (well R32's anyway).
So my first recommendation to you if you do track work (not 1/4 mile) is have a baffling system installed in your sump to stop the oil from surging during cornering.

Now this is where it becomes confusing. I have been informed that one of the reasons that the oil pick up is starved of oil is due the fact that GTR's have an exceptional ability to pump huge amounts of oil to the head of the engine in standard form thus causing a shortage of oil in the sump while on the race track (you can imagine the high RPM's sustained would do this)and you then add the surging problem to this.
So the other modification being done to my engine is drilling another oil drainage hole or enlarging the existing oil drainage holes in the head to allow the quicker return of the oil to the sump. The other option that another engine builder recommended was to actually put restrictors in the oil senders to the head eg I think standard they are 3mm diameter and they insert a restricter that reduces this to 1.5mm to stop so much oil being sent to the head.

I suggest you have a chat to your engine builders
about this. Neither of the engine builders recommended a high volume oil pump (this is not to say you should not) so I would be interested to know what they think about what I have said and for what reason do they think a high volume oil pump is needed.

Cheers

Stuart

Thanks Stugtr for the advice. I had a chat with my tuner today. Guess what? He had actually ordered thye NISMO baffling system for my car and was about to e-mail me about that! It cost about USD 350 over here.
The high flow pump is recommended by almost every HKS or other Japanese tuners in this region particularly because of our hot climate. To obtain warranties for the tuning job, I have to follow their tuning menu and therefore I really cannot quarrel with the tuners on this. I am aware of contrary advices from tuners in Australia/US and Britain on this point. But I am stuck with this item. It better be good as it cost a bomb!
On the restrictor, I don't think that's a good idea. (I stand corrected on this). Logically, if you restrict the oil from going to the head, there wouldn't be enough oil in the head ( and consequently the turbos?) which is no good as well. :confused: I am just thinking logically here as I know nuts about this:D I am also not in favour of any additional drilling on the head because I fear that the head may crack or something:eek:

Your Tuner huh? Im guessing that would be Renny Koo? From Aerotech? If you are talking HKS ofcorse.

Hey N/A, do you know Rennie? Really nice and honest guy. He did tune my car before this. But for the current job, I went to S'pore - GarageR (Lester Wong is the tuner's name). Rennie is good, but parts in M'sia are really expensive because of high taxes. So I had to go to S'pore. GarageR is now arranging a tuner from Top Secret Japan to tune my car but that's not confirmed yet.

Hi R33, If you need parts let me know and i can send them to u..

Thanks N/A for the offer. Right now I already have all the parts. But I am keeping an option on the Hollinger six speeder gearbox. Someone from this forum says it's about AUD1700. If so, it's cheap and I would like one in the near future. I wonder whether you could find out the exact price, if it isn't too much of a trouble of course.
Thanks mate.:sun:

N/A, one more thing. Do u have any experience with HKS 2540s set up with 264(inlet)272(exhaust)cam setting? (the pistons are HKS forged 87mm pistons with 1.6mm metal head gasket - comp ratio is 8:3:1). Would be pleased if you could tell me how this set up behave.

No experience with 264/272 and 2540's. I have spoken to alot of tuners , ie; Topsecret, Veilside, HKS, etc and they have said 2530 is the best turbo because of its balance of top and bottom. Would be nice to see how ures turns out if u do it.. If you are looking for the perfect combination for 600ps, i can advise you of what i think is best... just my opinion..

In any case, good luck with ure GTR.