is it right hand drive in Hong Kong? i forget :p

if you do bring it to this side of the world, would you drive ti to new jersey, i would love to see it, or you could just post a picture:D

igor@af - Yes, it is RHD in Hong Kong. I was told that it comes with CF hood, more torque and different cluster. My wife and I are getting excited to see it in Aug.

200SX - If I do bring it to the States, I would bring it to LA because my sister is living there. However, I don't have plan for that yet. Once I see the car, I am sure I would take a lot of pics and videos as well. I would like to try it on those mountain roads in HK. I want to see how it handles on those tight corners and narrow streets.:)

that sounds dangerous, please don't crash it:(

Im not sure if someone replied or not but the rb26 can handle 1.12 its the turbos you have to watch. as long as you have the fuel and upgraded turbos the 2.6 is good for 500hp (reliable street everyday driver) ive seen it in japan.

With spot on tuning the RB 26 stock bottom end is able to take anywhere upto 1.8/1.9 bar. Even with larger turbo's, however compression must be lowered and fuel upgraded.

Standard GTR turbo's are physically not able to take more than 1 bar. if you are doing so, you are very lucky the exhaust wheel is not falling off YET! This is a fact. It has nothing to do with timing just the way it is made.

Lastly, to sustain higher power outputs, the engine has to be running at optimum levels, oil changed maxmimum every 5,000kms, inlet temp lowered (I/cooler) and engine oil cooled as it will help with the cooling of the pistons and running gear. FYI, RB26 Pistons have an oil squirter that squirts oil to the pistons to cool it down. Only other thing u have to worry about is the breaking of the running components. Ive done 2 transmissions, 1 rear diff and clutch in less than 10,000kms. My torque figures are abve 60!

I didn't read EVERY single post in this headliner....cause it's a lot of sh*t! But basically I'll tell you what you need to do to get to 500HP to the wheels...that's where I'm at now.

Don't listen to the hype, the intercooler and radiator were WAY overdesigned on the GTR....the only reason the big names change them is to have THEIR own stuff on it to promote sales. If you want the looks...go pick up some hi-temp silver paint. Five minute job and everybody thinks I have the Greddy Intercooler...but I do my best to NOT promote aftermarket intercoolers.

550-600 is the max you should do on stock internals (w/ exception of the Camshafts....the dragers out here you the stock ones because they're cheaper....and they often survive (1100hp+)

Things you DON'T need to change: Intercooler, Radiator, Rods, crank, flywheel, oil pump, Induction piping, pistons (pretty much the entire engine itself minus the turbos)

Things you HAVE to change: turbos, add turbo controller, Computer fuel map, injectors, (fuel pump and adjustable regulator recommended), metal gasket, clutch, exhaust, an accurate boost guage...I think that's about it. If you want a daily driver, you should get an oil cooler....you'll run your oil temp close to 100 C's without one.

Things I changed: 2.7L bore-up (N1 pistons), Tomei metal head, Sard 534cc injectors, Nismo Fuel pump, all Nismo belts, N1 oil pump, Greddy oil Catch tank, HKS 2540 turbos, Nissan computer tune, Greddy secondary hi-flow fuel filter, Sard adjustable fuel regulator, HKS Super Drager exhaust,front and straight pipes, HKS intake piping w/hyper flow filters, Greddy Oil cooler, Greddy/Trust Boost controller....and for the outside...Veilside C1 wing, front and rear faschia's, Greddy Boost guage, Razo shifter, Lanzo pedals, and Nismo guage cluster (but want to upgrade to Veilside Euro). My biggest fallback are the stock rims. It's make the drive a little skittish. I only boost 1.0 bar and it's a daily driver....I'm small potatoes compared to some of the stuff I see out here....You can see my car here:

http://www.speedoptions.com/community_driverprofiles_view.asp?driverprofile_id =18912

By the way....ALL my mods (minus the 3200 dollar turbos) cost just under 10K US. So if you're paying 15k US to further upgrade an already somewhat upgraded car to 500HP....you're gettin' RIPPED OFF!

Hello,

I live in the US, and own an R32 GTR. The car is currently being prepped for all out horsepower and drag racing.

We should be ready later this year to start racing, it should be fun.

Personally, I love the car, how it handles, how it pulls, and especially the spooling of the turbos. Well, in a couple weeks, the spooling of the Turbo (singular, hehe)

Welcome to AF guys!
We hope we can learn a lot from you.... [considering I plan to get a GT-R pretty soon...;)]

Kimi wa nihongo shabereru?
Ore wa nihon ni rokunenkan sunda. kyoto ni ihcinen to tusukuba shi, ibaraki ken [60 miles from tokyo] in go nenkan.

For hopeless people who don't know Japanese:p

Do you speak Japanese?
I lived in Japan for 6 years. 1 year in Kyoto and 5 years in Tsukuba city, Ibaraki prefecture [60 miles from tokyo]

:)

Originally posted by Gtr2.7L
I didn't read EVERY single post in this headliner....cause it's a lot of sh*t! But basically I'll tell you what you need to do to get to 500HP to the wheels...that's where I'm at now.

Don't listen to the hype, the intercooler and radiator were WAY overdesigned on the GTR....the only reason the big names change them is to have THEIR own stuff on it to promote sales. If you want the looks...go pick up some hi-temp silver paint. Five minute job and everybody thinks I have the Greddy Intercooler...but I do my best to NOT promote aftermarket intercoolers.

550-600 is the max you should do on stock internals (w/ exception of the Camshafts....the dragers out here you the stock ones because they're cheaper....and they often survive (1100hp+)

Things you DON'T need to change: Intercooler, Radiator, Rods, crank, flywheel, oil pump, Induction piping, pistons (pretty much the entire engine itself minus the turbos)

Things you HAVE to change: turbos, add turbo controller, Computer fuel map, injectors, (fuel pump and adjustable regulator recommended), metal gasket, clutch, exhaust, an accurate boost guage...I think that's about it. If you want a daily driver, you should get an oil cooler....you'll run your oil temp close to 100 C's without one.


http://www.speedoptions.com/community_driverprofiles_view.asp?driverprofile_id =18912

hahahaha... :o
I think you are either way right or way wrong... im guessing wrong... you may have gotten 500hp out of that car of your but oviously not the right way.. i suppose you are going to say u run quite a low boost again... i have bench flowed the GTR plenum and the Intercooler and let me tell you, there is absolutely no way it is capable of cooling down or pass trough the amount of pressure in what is needed to run 500plus... the max would be around 450hp...

"Things you DON'T need to change: Intercooler, Radiator, Rods, crank, flywheel, oil pump, Induction piping, pistons (pretty much the entire engine itself minus the turbos)"

why the hell did u change ures then? why change anything except the turbo? lets just slap alot of boost, drill a hole in the intake plenum and fit another nissan injector ( so we are not using the branded ones) and tune the standard ecu. Wake up and think b4 u say things... the cheap way may work for some who is foolish to believe it but i dont think so......


Example, Nissan in Australia changed the Radiator, Oil cooler and a few other items bcos of the difference in heat in Australia. THIS WAS FOR A STOCK CAR WITH STOCK BOOST!! " WAY OVERSIZED" u say?

LASTLY, i just read your car info... HKS 2540 Capable of 800HP between them huh? what are u on? now i know ure naive.... the turbo's are only rated at 340ps MAX.. thats 680ps.... convert that to hp from ps and u get maybe 650hp!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and you say 500HP at the wheels??

"I didn't read EVERY single post in this headliner....cause it's a lot of sh*t! But basically I'll tell you what you need to do to get to 500HP to the wheels...that's where I'm at now."

im presuming you mean @ 4 WHEELS because its a GTR.. so 500HP +15% (GTR loss to the front) Equals 575HP @ the rear..
575HP plus 30% (power at the engine) =

747.5HP!!!
and all with stock parts.....
Do u really know what ure talking about?

There is another GTR with similar work to mine down here (with the exception of the 2.7L bore-up and 2530 vice 2540 turbines) who has dynoed his car up in the Yokohama SuperAutobacs at 450 PS to the wheels. Could I get another 50 HP from the bore-up and 2540's...I think so. The majority of my tuning was done by a local who was a racing team member for Nissan in the late eighties and early nineties who specializes in Skylines.
I beefed up my engine as I want to use it as a daily driver, quarter miling, and circuit racing. No reason to get all pissy.

I got all "pissy" because i read your post and it was absolute garbage... i go thu forums like this to learn from others with experiences and discuss but yours was an absolute joke... all of your points were wrong and hearsay....

some will actually take what u say as guidance and make a big mistake.. and again 450ps at the wheel?? thats 450 ps at the engine buddy...

Negative, he posted 450ps at the wheels, est 537ps at the crank. That was at 1.1 Bar. My "estimate" for my car is based on 1.2 Bar. I finished my rebuild in July and have just passed 1k kils in the last two weeks. I'm trying to get up to Yokohama this weekend to verify. If it comes up short, I'll let you know....I plan on posting the results on the SO website....but like I said, my friend's 32 posted 450.
I'm assuming when you say "low boost" you mean 1.4 or less....or do you mean .7 or less.

Here's a small example for you....Hyper Rev magazine...I'm sure you know what I'm talking about....Vol 56, pg 25 (Border). Completely stock engine (save R34 N1 Turbos,80 pi exhaust, stock computer tune and 550 cc injectors) 500 ps @ 1.2 Bar. Now, as you say you know so much about GTR's...you know the N1's are the same size as stock, only difference is ball bearings and metal composition.
Now....lower your compression by adding a thicker metal head, increase your turbine size 20%, increase your displacement by 100cc's, add Iridium 9's. What do you think that will do?

Where are you from anyway?

:flipa: hahahhahaha.......................... your what we call a f*** wit... thinks he know what he is talking about but dont know jack.... let me tell u my friend, I HAVE THE FREAKIN N1 GTR Turbo's here right now... They are form ZENITANI in OSAKA..... they are the same sizing as the GT25 NOT the Standard.. standards are not .60...... hahahahhaah want me to humiliate you more?? shall i attach pics of standard and NI with the Nissan Part No on the turbo just to prove it??? Look stop talking and start learning... go hit the books....

To those who may be offended by all this shit... im sorry but this guy is just pissing me off with all his rubbish & crap....

You guys know more about this stuff than I do.

Feel free to keep your posts going, because I am learning. Just try to keep it clean for the kiddies that are on here.

Well, if I remember what JUN USA told me about the N1 Turbo's, will put about about 250 HP each, max. and making some assumptions about what I just learned from N/A in another thread, that can't be much more than about 380 HP to the wheels, if even that.

Just my $.02

hahhaha....How old are you?

Post the pics.....so we can all learn something. You still haven't explained to me why my HP estimates, or my friend's Dyno results are false. It's a little hard argue against someone who has seen the data.
I'm offering information to someone who wanted 500Hp. If he wanted 800 or 1000 my advice would have been different. I chose to stop at around 500 at the wheels....I personally don't need any more than that. My build was designed around 500.....not eventually leading to xxxx hp. So I object to you saying my car was built "the wrong" or "the cheap" way. Did I have to go 2.7 to get 500....no, but I wanted more torque with less engine stress....which is why I only need 1.2 Bar. But then again, you know EVERYTHING, the incorrect and correct ways, to tuning the GTR. Nevermind there's literally hundreds of ways to do it.
.....and you never answered my question....where are you from? Do you live in Japan? or Australia? Do you own a GTR? Show us your pics. I have no desire to be hostile....stop making this a "I'm right, you're wrong" deal and just maybe we could learn from each other.

You are cheapand stupid, naive, ignorant... and if u want to see my car go to the Thread i started... idiot... dont waste my time..

Plus if i post the pics of the NI Turbo.... u better tell everyone ure an idiot... fools like u dont deserve to drive a GTR...

By all means. I can handle being wrong...it certainly wouldn't be the first time. Anything else you would like to call me? Or can we dispense with that business and get into the information side of things?

N/A, I'd really prefer you stop the bashing. I'm sure there ARE a lot of things that you guys would agree on :)

and just to cheer both of you guys up,

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/arguing.jpg

:D

That's the second time I've seen that...and although it's a bit cruel, I just can't help but laugh!

all i can say is I WANT A SKYLINE!:bloated:

Hi GTr2.7L - gosh...can't u make your name any more difficult?:D You have liven up this forum. Good.
Now, I have a 33 GTR and it is now at the workshop for a 600 hp job. I am aiming for about 500-520 at the wheel. It is a daily driver and I want a lot of usable torque.I am installing among others 2540s. I am interested to know from u how the 2540s behave. Can u tell me? Is there a lot of lag? What rpm do u achieve full boost of 1.2bar and peak torque? What's the peak torque?
If u see my previous posts, I'd changed the 'cooler to a HKS GT. I need that b'coz M'sia is a hot country. Also installed is an HKS oil cooler. It helps a lot. Before it, the oil temp on track was 120C! Now it is 110C. Also installed is ARC radiator. Damn good. After installation, it pushed the oil temp to 100C. That's a decrease of 10C. I think the radiator managed to keep the engine much cooler thereby taking a lot of heat load from the oil.
What about your gearbox? Any problem with the power you have? Please tell me. BTW, can u post your dyno chart? It would be interesting to see the power delivery.
Cheers.

That's the BIG question on everyone's mind. TM's been asking me to do the Dyno so he can see how much torque the bore-up gave me. The way my car is set up right now, 1.0 bar runs at 5300 with 1.2 bar at 6400. The N1's allegedly give me an 8500 redline....but I've also heard the con rods being the weak point.....and unfortunately I decided against the extra 2400 bucks (DAMN!). I try to never rev past 8k. My boost starts creepin at about 3200 with noticible kick around 3800. Above 4k and I'm gone! I squeel through first and second, and pull a pretty good 4 wheel chirp in third....keep in mind I'm rolling on stock 16 rims with 225's (going to have to change that!). The car feels REALLY squirrely when it's on it's haunches, but I'm thinking about picking up the HKS Hyper Dampers to fix that problem. I don't like my brakes....pretty subject to fade after two quarters....I'm trying to pick up US spec Carbon Mettalics, and steel lines (goin DOT 4)....but I don't know if I want to deal with the steel squeel when I'm driving in the streets.
So far it has been a daily driver....no too much of a problem until about four weeks ago (before my oil cooler) when it was 40 deg C, I had to short-pop the hood and turn off the A/C when I was idling at a stop light (almost 110 C oil...and I'm guessing just about as close to 100C water temp as I could get). Now it's no sweat....latest comparison 38C with A/C pumpin in the same stoplight in the sun I'm running about 100C.

Oh yeah, check this....my tuner has been working on a '75 Prince (he's japanese and couldn't remember the word Prince....so he called it "Son of Queen!" GTR (white) to pump it up. It's as beatiful to me as a 67 vette or classic charger. The engine bay is amazing......just like old school....open it up and there it is......ENGINE. Anything else in there? Sure.....radiator, and a battery.....any questions? LOL! I forgot my damn camera last time I was there.....but I'll have to have him call me when it comes in again.

....and I know there are those who are going to jump through their rears to tell me I'm full of it, but my buddy Collin found out Greddy's Intercooler (supposed to be the bomb) didn't do much for him. To make a long story short, he took his car camping (his friend with a low rollin RX-7 said "I did it, so I'm sure you can") and ended up slamming the fascia and intercooler into the ground, cracking both severely. He decided since a new stock vs Greddy were only about 300 dollars different in price he would go with the Greddy. The car didn't post any noticible gains. On another note, Mine's claims the stock air meters can only measure enough air for 450 hp....they are to a degree correct....however, most tuners over here run so rich it doesn't pose a problem. IE after boost comes on, the relationship between engine output, exhaust pressure, and turbo output become almost linear, enough so they tell the computer to disregard air meter inputs and chuck in fuel. Makes for some very impressive fire-balls! LOL! The inputs come into play again when you lay off the boost....and of course when you do that, your air flow comes under 1400 kg/h (or whatever that damn unit is for volumetric flow) and is measured again. I didn't believe my tuner until I lost both my air meters (see post 93 Skyline) and the only time my car wouldn't give me problems was when I was on boost. Then it all started making sense.

Well this has been a colorful post indeed:rolleyes:

Well Gtr2.7L, it sounds like you know what you are doing and you are enjoying your car so be it:D I also like the fact that you kept your cool:sun: Kudo's.

More importantly tho NEXT TIME TAKE A DAMN CAMERA TO THE SHOP!!!!!:D :D :D :D

hehehe I love the classic Prince model, my wife thinks I'm nuts. She love's the R32, 33 and 34 (the most), but doesn't understand the love I have for the originals. Back when I lived in Japan (Okinawa) the first car I ever drove was a Prince Skyline, things have never been the same since:devil:

Good luck on the work you are doing with your car and please do post your results, the original digital copy would be best or even scanned along with pictures of you and your car on the dyno. No one can call you a liar if you are bold enough to put the numbers up:frog:

Hey...who knows...the guy might be right. Like I said, my estimates are based on what I've seen around me. I'll post my results Hi or Lo so everyone can see........SHOW NO FEAR....either way I've still got a GTR right? LOL!

Originally posted by Gtr2.7L
....either way I've still got a GTR right? LOL!

Hahahaha:lol2: I hate you, I truly do:lol2::devil:

OK now for all the kids taking notes, THAT is sarcasm:devil:

R33 : I love your car and da Nismo wheels man! :D U speak Malay? :P hohoho...

Superposition (which position is that?:confused: :D :devil: ), thanks for the compliment mate. Not many people like those wheels on my GTR. They just don't gel with the body paint. Personally, if I have the money, I would change them to some gold colored wheels. Wanna buy mine?:D

PS are you from M'sia? Sudah tentu gua boleh cakap Melayu laa...

R33 : Wahahaha...no posotion :P Heck, those are nice guy! Well tru, doesnt match with the paint...but *shrugs* get the body painted with silver or somethin...they'll look darn nice! :D

And no I'm not Malaysian, I'm Indonesian....but I live in Canada. Do you understand Bahasa Indonesia? :smoker:

So how much RM did u have to pay for you car? Heheh, I wish I could buy yer wheels...really man, how I wish. :)

R33 : Oh by the way Datuk, check this out :

http://www.volkracing.co.jp/lineup/nismo/gt4.htm

The wheel on the left would prolly suit your car.

.... lalu kirimkan Nismo GT1 kamu ke Canada...hahaha :D

I think the rims look perfect. I would not change a thing.

Thanks buds for the compliments. New pictures will be posted next mth when the car is ready with its 600 bhp job.:D

I dont own a Skyline but my neighbor owns a Pearl White R32 Skyline stock except for the rims and an exhaust motorex put on to make the car street legal actually lowers performance

here are some pics he let me take
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/pef235501019ab6ac118bfe0ab9b127a4/fe4ef5bf.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/p431009cc646e3184ce2975f4cc729aad/fe4ef5c1.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/p0c6845b4c4a2c78cb3626ed5bc8741a9/fe4ef5bd.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/p46f484c5b1f69d68e49e90a1edebda8b/fe4ef5bb.jpg.orig.jpg

it was dark so they turned out really bad but hey it's a skyline :D

Wow, those are nice. I thought MotoRex was California-only. Is that right? Either way, your neighbor went out of his way for that car! :D

Unfortunately i sold my R32 GT-R about 18 mths ago to start a new business venture...:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: I really miss it too.. *sob sob*


check my website for pics..

Hey, that's Nightmares car at night. Man, still looks shape as HELL.

Southo : I'm sorry to hear that man but I hope your new business venture buys u a R-34 / 35 pretty soon :D

Oh one question, how much AUS$ would a used R-32 cost?

Hi Peoples,

Good to see that the Skyline GTR has become known over there in the US of A.

I am trying to attach a photo of my GTR, which has been off the road now for some 3months due to "oil surge" occuring on the race track and thus starving the big end bearing of oil causing major engine destruction. The rebuild will include 1mm oversized forged pistons (retaining standard compression), a baffled sump to combat the abovementioned problem, strengthed conrod bolts, port & polished head, o-ringed block, new crank, new bearings, adjustable cam wheels retaining standard cams, Apexi power FC ECU and twin plate OS Giken clutch. Still trying to decide on the turbo's. Will keep you posted on power outputs.

Cheers

VERY NICE!

Sorry, to here about the oiling problem, but it sounds like you are going to have that under control.

Originally posted by stugtr
Hi Peoples,

Good to see that the Skyline GTR has become known over there in the US of A.

I am trying to attach a photo of my GTR, which has been off the road now for some 3months due to "oil surge" occuring on the race track and thus starving the big end bearing of oil causing major engine destruction. The rebuild will include 1mm oversized forged pistons (retaining standard compression), a baffled sump to combat the abovementioned problem, strengthed conrod bolts, port & polished head, o-ringed block, new crank, new bearings, adjustable cam wheels retaining standard cams, Apexi power FC ECU and twin plate OS Giken clutch. Still trying to decide on the turbo's. Will keep you posted on power outputs.

Cheers
HEY! stugtr

Nice R32! I've seen your GTR in the picture archives in a few places! I just wanted you to know that your GTR was one of the ones that helped me decided on an R32. I wanted an R32 but as you know pictures do the car justice and R33's seem to take a better picture but yours looked great!:) Because of that I kept the faith and went back with my first choice! And this how my R32 is turning out so far!

Thanks Mate!
http://www.z32.org/unsorted/skylinef1.jpg

See, now that's not the way to do a R32 GT-R.

Nightmare, I really think you need to re-think what you have done to that car, geez it looks like total doggie poop:D

Originally posted by SkylineUSA
See, now that's not the way to do a R32 GT-R.

Nightmare, I really think you need to re-think what you have done to that car, geez it looks like total doggie poop:D

haha, thanks:finger:

NIGHTMARE : Dont listen to SkylineUSA :devil: , but change the wheels man!! :frog:

yea, i totally agree with SkylineUSA,

Nightmare's GT-R = :apuke:

like totally :rolleyes:

Don't change the tires, don't do anything, not worth your time. Here let me just help you out and take it off your hands. You have suffered enough. Just give me your car and you will feel so much better.:D

Nightmare, your R32 is a nightmare man.....:D I mean, if it comes from the rear of my 33, it gonna be a nightmare for me!!Absolutely gorgeous GTR. Love your wheels. Wanna exchange with mine?:D
Stugtr : what exactly caused the surged? Is it the oil pump? I am now doing a big horse job on my car and I am putting among others HKS high flow oil pump. Some people say it's not necessary but I don't want to take any chances especially on the track, so I change it. Cost a bomb!

Nightmare,

Great to here that a simple photo helped you in your decision. Where have you seen photo's of my car before as I have never seen them??. Your car looks great you made the right choice with the R32 well thats my preference anyway. Actually I decided to buy the wheels on my car due to seeing them on a white 32 like yours.
Where are u located??

R33,
Well u have touched on an interesting subject and one i have received numerous advice on and differing opionions. First of all the Oil Surge was caused on the race track due to oil surging in the sump during fast cornering ie the oil moves to one side of the sump and the oil pickup is starved of oil and because your bearings are held together by oil pressure they don't like being starved of oil and just let go. This is fact with GTR's (well R32's anyway).
So my first recommendation to you if you do track work (not 1/4 mile) is have a baffling system installed in your sump to stop the oil from surging during cornering.

Now this is where it becomes confusing. I have been informed that one of the reasons that the oil pick up is starved of oil is due the fact that GTR's have an exceptional ability to pump huge amounts of oil to the head of the engine in standard form thus causing a shortage of oil in the sump while on the race track (you can imagine the high RPM's sustained would do this)and you then add the surging problem to this.
So the other modification being done to my engine is drilling another oil drainage hole or enlarging the existing oil drainage holes in the head to allow the quicker return of the oil to the sump. The other option that another engine builder recommended was to actually put restrictors in the oil senders to the head eg I think standard they are 3mm diameter and they insert a restricter that reduces this to 1.5mm to stop so much oil being sent to the head.

I suggest you have a chat to your engine builders
about this. Neither of the engine builders recommended a high volume oil pump (this is not to say you should not) so I would be interested to know what they think about what I have said and for what reason do they think a high volume oil pump is needed.

Cheers

Stuart

Thanks Stugtr for the advice. I had a chat with my tuner today. Guess what? He had actually ordered thye NISMO baffling system for my car and was about to e-mail me about that! It cost about USD 350 over here.
The high flow pump is recommended by almost every HKS or other Japanese tuners in this region particularly because of our hot climate. To obtain warranties for the tuning job, I have to follow their tuning menu and therefore I really cannot quarrel with the tuners on this. I am aware of contrary advices from tuners in Australia/US and Britain on this point. But I am stuck with this item. It better be good as it cost a bomb!
On the restrictor, I don't think that's a good idea. (I stand corrected on this). Logically, if you restrict the oil from going to the head, there wouldn't be enough oil in the head ( and consequently the turbos?) which is no good as well. :confused: I am just thinking logically here as I know nuts about this:D I am also not in favour of any additional drilling on the head because I fear that the head may crack or something:eek:

Your Tuner huh? Im guessing that would be Renny Koo? From Aerotech? If you are talking HKS ofcorse.

Hey N/A, do you know Rennie? Really nice and honest guy. He did tune my car before this. But for the current job, I went to S'pore - GarageR (Lester Wong is the tuner's name). Rennie is good, but parts in M'sia are really expensive because of high taxes. So I had to go to S'pore. GarageR is now arranging a tuner from Top Secret Japan to tune my car but that's not confirmed yet.

Hi R33, If you need parts let me know and i can send them to u..

Thanks N/A for the offer. Right now I already have all the parts. But I am keeping an option on the Hollinger six speeder gearbox. Someone from this forum says it's about AUD1700. If so, it's cheap and I would like one in the near future. I wonder whether you could find out the exact price, if it isn't too much of a trouble of course.
Thanks mate.:sun:

N/A, one more thing. Do u have any experience with HKS 2540s set up with 264(inlet)272(exhaust)cam setting? (the pistons are HKS forged 87mm pistons with 1.6mm metal head gasket - comp ratio is 8:3:1). Would be pleased if you could tell me how this set up behave.

No experience with 264/272 and 2540's. I have spoken to alot of tuners , ie; Topsecret, Veilside, HKS, etc and they have said 2530 is the best turbo because of its balance of top and bottom. Would be nice to see how ures turns out if u do it.. If you are looking for the perfect combination for 600ps, i can advise you of what i think is best... just my opinion..

In any case, good luck with ure GTR.