FS: 1966 LWB RS Clone Roller in Southern California - $6500 FIRM

The Car:
1966 Porsche RS Clone

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/1.jpg

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/2.jpg

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/back1.jpg

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/back2.jpg

The good:
-RS clone (RS flares, RS front spoiler, etc.)
-Staggered fuchs wheels with new tires
-Rebuilt Porsche 901 5spd
-No Sunroof
-Recent Repaint (orig. color, red)
-New Suspension
-New Brake system (BMC, all 4 calipers, pedal assembly, etc.)
-Interior was redone in tan (orig. black)
-Converted to better-handling long wheel base
-H4 headlight upgrade
-Whale Tail
-Smog exempt in all states that regulate emmissions
-Currently titled/registered in CA
-It looks great (see pictures)

The bad:
This is usually the deal breaker:
Ready for this?

It has a professionally installed (but reversable) turbocharged V6 watercooled
motor swap, which has several problems. Because of the engine's current
condition I have priced this car very cheap, in the range of project
cars and rolling chassis, because you have one of two options:

1. Remove the engine that is in there, remove the fabricated engine
bracket (2 bolts), remove the radiator and piping (a few more bolts),
and you have a stock porsche roller ready for your wildest air-cooled
desires. This procedure, with an engine crane, would take a few hours
at the most - the conversion is completly reversable, and the older
911's are very accessible.

2. Fix the Buick V6 Turbo 3.8L motor that is in there. Here are the
current issues with the Buick V6:
I purchased this car with the conversion already completed, when I
shipped the car here (sight unseen) I got a car with frozen brakes that
wouldn't start when I had been expecting a drag strip burner in perfect
condition. I spent $1600 (have reciepts) to get the entire brake system
replaced, and I added a starter switch to get the car going. When the
car started and I had brakes I was in for a large dissapointment, as
the car had no power. Sure, the car was light, and moved fairly well if
you kept its momentum up, but I had been told (when I bought the car)
280hp/350tq in a 2000lbs car - it obviously needs some kind of a tune
up, and the turbo never seems to kick in - the turbo is controlled by
an electronic boost controller, so this might be stuck closed. Honestly
I know nothing about turbos (other than their basic workings), and I
know just enough about cars to break them. Still I pressed on, driving
the car back and forth to school (about 2 miles each way). About 2
months into this routine I was in for more shock/suprise as the car
started to overheat. With one of these 'hybrids' the largest concern is
the cooling system (you are taking what was designed as an air-cooled
car, and improvising a water-cooling system) - this one worked fine for
the first two months, but then a series of things happend at once. The
temperature guage stopped working and the two 12" electric fans (one on
the top, one on the bottom of the radiator) stopped turning on. I
noticed these both on the same morning the car overheated on me for the
first time, and I had the car towed home. Once in its place as an
attractive lawn ornament I spent an hour of poking at the cooling
system to see if there was an easy fix I could do, I put +12V directly
on the fans and they turned on, so the fans are still good. Without any
further ideas I gave up on the issue, and purchased a modern car to
drive instead. Since then I have driven the porschuick (catchy, eh?)
2-3 times a week to run local errands, eg to places within a mile of my
house, to keep it in working order. It would also be relativly easy to
make some sort of a basic switch that would feed +12V directly to the
fans, as the car's battery, fans, and dashboard are all within inchs of
each other (benefits of the trunk, radiator, battery tray, and rear of
the dashboard all being up front), this would most likely fix the
overheating issue.

This car starts fine, brakes fine, and does drive, but because of the
work needed on the engine (which is probably minor, but I am no
mechanic) and the subjective nature of the conversion, my asking price
has been getting lower and lower until I was haggled and bargained by a
member of pelicanparts for over a month until I reached my absolute,
having second thoughts, looking at all my reciepts and crying, lowest
price - that price is $6500 FIRM (with extra emphasis on the FIRM). It
turns out after all of this the guy didn't buy my car or any of the
others he was making offers on, but you live and learn. $6500 For
an RS clone roller with all the recent work this is a bargain, and if
you're feeling saucy you can give the turbo Buick a go, whichever way
you're interested in proceeding it is one heck of a buy, and you should
jump on it quick. *cough* buymycar *cough* SmileWavy

I can do my best to answer any questions you might possibly have, and I
am armed with a digital camera and can take any pictures you might be
interested in seeing. Let me know if you have any further interest
after the dirty *gasp* buick *gasp* word. I have also attached a set of
the images most people seem to be interested in seeing. If you are
interested in buying this car, and you don't live within a 6 block
radius of my driveway, expect to trailer the car home (like any good
roller) - if you are local, and would like to come and see the car (and
make an attempt at driving it?) you are more than welcome (you are
strongly encouraged).

Car location: SoCal, 92653
Car Condition: Roller, or ?
Car Mileage: 3,000 since most of the work done, 400 since brakes, 23K on odometer (which has probably been replaced or has rolled over)

Any questions/comments please PM me - I feel my asking price is fair given the car's condition, and it reflects my desire to sell the car asap.

email: scorp965@cox.net
or feel free to send me a PM

This car was on eBay, and a guy came by to test drive it - when he was ripping through residential streets at 40mph he nailed a dip (which I had warned him about), and cracked the front RS spoiler on the corner (which was nearly perfect beforehand) - the above pictures are all after this damage, and here is a close up of it. Unless you look for it the damage doesn't jump out at you, but it is there:

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/damage.jpg

Rear decklid - fiberglass whale tail with rubber lip:

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/decklid.jpg

Slight rubbing on driver-side bolster:

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/driverseat.jpg

Small hole in passenger seat:

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/passseat.jpg

Interior:

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/interior.jpg

Bottom of the engine, 6" of clearance to oil pan. note: surface rust is only on the radiator piping (the pair of pipes leading to the front), if you were to convert this back to an aircooled car these pipes would be removed, and the surface rust doesn't compromise their structural integrity - the cooling system pressurizes fine and has no leaks:

http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/eng_bot.jpg

Top of engine (while running):
http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/eng_top.jpg

Left side of firewall:
http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/firewall_left.jpg

Right side of firewall:
http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/firewall_right.jpg

driver-door production # (blue wire is for door speaker):
http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/int_vin.jpg

Rear seats, down:
http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/rear_closed.jpg

Rear seats, up:
http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/rear_open.jpg

My 6 months of paperwork:
http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/records.jpg

Front trunk:
http://www.scorpionsearch.com/images/porsche/trunk.jpg