1993 Skylark - A few questions
rotterholt
10-19-2004, 08:29 PM
Hi,
I'm new to this community, and hope to both find and provide help in some way.
A few questions, please. I purchased this car used from a not so reputable source, but I was desperate for a car at the time. It has a few minor problems, but nothing that couldn't be delt with. Here are a few - answer what you can!
a) Today while driving, my low engine coolant light came on. I filled the coolant, ran the engine for a few minutes, and the light is still on. Doh.
b) When I purchased the car, I was told that it had been stolen before. Yaay. (rolling eyes). So, while the ignition works, my wipers and radio like to shut off. If I turn the key a little bit while the car is running, and the counter-weight made by the key's are just right, everything stays on. This is irritating, but hasn't prevented me from driving the car yet. Anyone have any suggestions, short of replacing the ignition (if it comes to that, I will, but I am hoping for an easier fix).
c) Click, click, clack. It has this constand 'tinkling' noise when idling, which befuddles every mechanic that has looked at it. I have been told that it is my alternator (not toast, but getting there), my a/c system (that died last summer, but I haven't bothered to get it replaced yet), or a belt (all have been checked, and look great). I had the fan replaced last year, so that wasn't the source.
d) Occassionally my ABS light comes on, blinks, then goes off. A few times it came on and stayed on, until I turned off and restarted the car. The dealer/mechanics (there have been a few) all looked over the system, hooked up the car, charged me some money, and told me the system is fine.
And a few others - is there a history of the following things going 'bad' in the '93 models?
- Driver side window opens only half way, then 'grinds'
- Headliner is falling, started at the rear window
- Door seals on the rear doors are leaking, and water gets
the doors, sloshing when opened (only after heavy rain)
- Automatic locks lock when put in drive, but driver and
passenger front doors won't unlock unless done manually
Looking over this post, I am wishing I could buy a newer car, but I am still paying off the wife's mustang and driving this until that payment is done. Any help provided is much appreciated!!
:)
Ryan
I'm new to this community, and hope to both find and provide help in some way.
A few questions, please. I purchased this car used from a not so reputable source, but I was desperate for a car at the time. It has a few minor problems, but nothing that couldn't be delt with. Here are a few - answer what you can!
a) Today while driving, my low engine coolant light came on. I filled the coolant, ran the engine for a few minutes, and the light is still on. Doh.
b) When I purchased the car, I was told that it had been stolen before. Yaay. (rolling eyes). So, while the ignition works, my wipers and radio like to shut off. If I turn the key a little bit while the car is running, and the counter-weight made by the key's are just right, everything stays on. This is irritating, but hasn't prevented me from driving the car yet. Anyone have any suggestions, short of replacing the ignition (if it comes to that, I will, but I am hoping for an easier fix).
c) Click, click, clack. It has this constand 'tinkling' noise when idling, which befuddles every mechanic that has looked at it. I have been told that it is my alternator (not toast, but getting there), my a/c system (that died last summer, but I haven't bothered to get it replaced yet), or a belt (all have been checked, and look great). I had the fan replaced last year, so that wasn't the source.
d) Occassionally my ABS light comes on, blinks, then goes off. A few times it came on and stayed on, until I turned off and restarted the car. The dealer/mechanics (there have been a few) all looked over the system, hooked up the car, charged me some money, and told me the system is fine.
And a few others - is there a history of the following things going 'bad' in the '93 models?
- Driver side window opens only half way, then 'grinds'
- Headliner is falling, started at the rear window
- Door seals on the rear doors are leaking, and water gets
the doors, sloshing when opened (only after heavy rain)
- Automatic locks lock when put in drive, but driver and
passenger front doors won't unlock unless done manually
Looking over this post, I am wishing I could buy a newer car, but I am still paying off the wife's mustang and driving this until that payment is done. Any help provided is much appreciated!!
:)
Ryan
Madcat455
10-19-2004, 10:03 PM
Which engine does it have??
A) remove the negative battery cable for 15min... that might reset the computer. Good place to start.
B) Hard to tell, Ignition locks should be cheap... had a friend just get one replaced for $80 on his Jeep (GM version). So if you're a DIY guy parts shouldn't be that much.
C) related to the which engine question... Remove the belt driving the accessory in question... run the car for a bit. If noise is gone then there is the problem. If noise is still there then look somewhere else.
D) I have noticed that on two of my GM cars (94 sunbird & 96 Grand am)... the sunbird had a bad battery that made the ABS light come on (sucking too many amps from the alt, I guess)... but backed up by the Grand am. I installed an extra cooling fan on my GA.... at long stops (30min or more) just sitting... I'd notice the ABS light would come on... then go off after I drove a bit, or shut off the car and restarted. I can only figure that the extra fan (stopped when I removed fan) was pushing the alt over its rating and the ABS computer wasn't getting enough voltage to run... setting off the light. I'd remove the alt, and take it to autozone or advanced auto to be tested (Free). they are cheap (like 40 or so depending on engine) too.
Window motor.... Probably a stripped gear if it goes up and down fine for that "Half Way".... you can pull the door panel and get a mirror & flashlight in there to see if the gear on the window armature is stripped (that's the "biggie")... if that's fine, just get a new motor... my old 92 transport motors were around $50. Ebay has them too.
Headliners are a PIA... best to just use Push pins (tacks) and stick them in there to hold it up.
Door seals are probably fine if water isn't getting into the car.. The window channell seals are probably shot... the door should have a drain hole in it for water to come out.. check and see if its plugged. Water inside of the door is unavoidable on any car...
Power lock solonoids are probably bad on those two doors...do they unlock with the switch, or do you have to physically slide the lock??
A) remove the negative battery cable for 15min... that might reset the computer. Good place to start.
B) Hard to tell, Ignition locks should be cheap... had a friend just get one replaced for $80 on his Jeep (GM version). So if you're a DIY guy parts shouldn't be that much.
C) related to the which engine question... Remove the belt driving the accessory in question... run the car for a bit. If noise is gone then there is the problem. If noise is still there then look somewhere else.
D) I have noticed that on two of my GM cars (94 sunbird & 96 Grand am)... the sunbird had a bad battery that made the ABS light come on (sucking too many amps from the alt, I guess)... but backed up by the Grand am. I installed an extra cooling fan on my GA.... at long stops (30min or more) just sitting... I'd notice the ABS light would come on... then go off after I drove a bit, or shut off the car and restarted. I can only figure that the extra fan (stopped when I removed fan) was pushing the alt over its rating and the ABS computer wasn't getting enough voltage to run... setting off the light. I'd remove the alt, and take it to autozone or advanced auto to be tested (Free). they are cheap (like 40 or so depending on engine) too.
Window motor.... Probably a stripped gear if it goes up and down fine for that "Half Way".... you can pull the door panel and get a mirror & flashlight in there to see if the gear on the window armature is stripped (that's the "biggie")... if that's fine, just get a new motor... my old 92 transport motors were around $50. Ebay has them too.
Headliners are a PIA... best to just use Push pins (tacks) and stick them in there to hold it up.
Door seals are probably fine if water isn't getting into the car.. The window channell seals are probably shot... the door should have a drain hole in it for water to come out.. check and see if its plugged. Water inside of the door is unavoidable on any car...
Power lock solonoids are probably bad on those two doors...do they unlock with the switch, or do you have to physically slide the lock??
MissRott
05-28-2005, 10:33 AM
Hi Ryan,
I have the same car and have been having troubles with it since I got it. Many, many parts replaced. Anyway, about you click, click, clackin'.....
My car had a horrible knock coming from what we thought was the alternator, BUT it turns out that it was the HARMONIC BALANCER PULLEY/ CRANK SHAFT PULLEY. I had been to many mechanics and this part was never even suggested until yesterday. Got a new one now, and WOW, what a difference! Research this part. It might help you a lot. The part only cost me $120 and if you find a good guy to put it in, it shouldn't cost you much more than $200 including labor.
I hope this can help ya.
~Miss Rott
I have the same car and have been having troubles with it since I got it. Many, many parts replaced. Anyway, about you click, click, clackin'.....
My car had a horrible knock coming from what we thought was the alternator, BUT it turns out that it was the HARMONIC BALANCER PULLEY/ CRANK SHAFT PULLEY. I had been to many mechanics and this part was never even suggested until yesterday. Got a new one now, and WOW, what a difference! Research this part. It might help you a lot. The part only cost me $120 and if you find a good guy to put it in, it shouldn't cost you much more than $200 including labor.
I hope this can help ya.
~Miss Rott
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