1995-2003 S10 & Blazer Front End Clunk Pop Fix!!! Read!!


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BlazerLT
10-17-2004, 12:55 PM
Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/one.JPG

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.


97PUO-BDM0o

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.
Hood hinge clunk fix
TSB 01-08-63-001A
GM part # 12383460
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-08-63-001A (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).
Condition:
Some customers may comment on a rattle coming from either or both front
corners of the instrument panel near the hood hinge areas. This noise may
often be mistaken for a loose shock absorber. The rattle may be heard when
driving over rough roads and is most noticeable when the road surface
creates a side-to-side vehicle motion.

Cause:
Excessive clearance at the hood hinge attaching bolt may cause this
condition. The excessive clearance allows the hood hinge to make metal
contact with the hood hinge bracket, which produces a rattling noise.

Correction:
Important: For additional information, see the Body Front End subsection of
the Body and Accessories Section of the appropriate Service Manual.

1.. Remove the hood hinge attaching bolt (1).
2.. Install a spring washer (2) on the bolt as shown in above
illustration.
3.. Install the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).

Parts Information
Part Number: 12383460

Description: Washer - Hood Hinge

Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved. There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/therealsundance/DSC00309.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/therealsundance/DSC00310.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/therealsundance/DSC00311.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v448/therealsundance/DSC00312.jpg

powering
10-17-2004, 01:20 PM
Nice post, with pictures. Its unbeliveable isn't it how easy of a fix this is, especially when you think no way it could be the hood hinge and then after when you do that first test drive. Why don't dealers just send this info out. It gets you back to loving your drive instead of dreading those clunking and rattling sounds. All for $2 .
I encourage all to try this before investing money in shocks and replacing other parts that MAY not need replacing.
Thanks BlazerLT for lending proof of this fix.

BlazerLT
10-17-2004, 01:39 PM
Wow, this is ridiculous that it took me this long to find it.

It is crazy the amount of research and money and testing I have put into this for it to be something not even related.

BTW, I put the shop towels in the prop up the hinge and took it for a drive and not a peep came out of it.

Was one of the most satisfying drives in many recent years.

Alexxn 00 Si
10-17-2004, 08:22 PM
I'm gona definately do this myself ASAP....now if we can only quiet up the noisy / rattled filled interior of our trucks.......

BlazerLT
10-17-2004, 08:31 PM
This has been mistaken for interior rattle too.

Alexxn 00 Si
10-17-2004, 09:52 PM
Does this apply to other years besides 1995 that the bulletin mentions ?

BlazerLT
10-17-2004, 10:05 PM
Please reread the first post again.

cobra1
10-19-2004, 05:31 AM
Please reread the first post again.

if your gonna post, why not just tell him? must you always be a prick?

BlazerLT
10-19-2004, 05:33 AM
Yea, I am a prick that created this thread to help everyone.

kthxbye moron

cobra1
10-19-2004, 05:58 AM
Yea, I am a prick that created this thread to help everyone.

kthxbye moron

oooppss, forgot i had to switch to 5 year old mode. let me see if i can get this so you'll understand.


if you were gonna post that he should re-read the first post, then why not just post the answer he wanted, instead of being a prick.

BlazerLT
10-19-2004, 03:28 PM
Enjoy the thread guys, this fix worked awesome for my clunk.

chcknugget
10-19-2004, 05:34 PM
Yeah I just bought the washers... What side of the hinge did you put them on?

BlazerLT
10-19-2004, 05:39 PM
Ok,

You put them on the head portion of the bolt.

You remove the bolt from the hinge, slip the washer over the bolt so that the wider portion of the cone washer is towards the head of the bolt and and the narrower portion is towards the threads.

Reinsert the bolts, tighten it up and you can check and see that the clunk and knocking noise is now gone.

Enjoy, I am so happy about mine. It is almost like a new truck feel when you don't have that clunk to worry about.

powering
10-20-2004, 08:46 AM
I love my ride now also. It makes ya wonder how many people spent a bunch of money on shocks and front end parts when the cluncking is due to a couple dollar fix and so easy to do.
I was so happy with this fix. But what really pisses me off is that when I took it to the dealer and had an alignment they didn't even offer this fix to me. I had to find it on my own. You figure after they test drive it they could have said something like "did you ever have your hood hinge retainer bolts checked? For $25 we think we can fix that clunk and get you loving your Blazer/Jimmy again." I think it would ensure a bit of customer loyalty. It would help me forget the problems with bad front bearings, wiper module problems, bad batteries, seat handles, etc,
By the way I would encourage any READERS who do this fix to POST if it works so others will know, ya know pass it on.

Alexxn 00 Si
10-20-2004, 11:26 AM
Just got mine...I'll let everyone know when they are installed....

BlazerLT
10-20-2004, 12:32 PM
just make sure the narrower portion of the washer points to the threads.

benwa
10-21-2004, 11:23 PM
Wow, this is ridiculous that it took me this long to find it.

It is crazy the amount of research and money and testing I have put into this for it to be something not even related.

BTW, I put the shop towels in the prop up the hinge and took it for a drive and not a peep came out of it.

Was one of the most satisfying drives in many recent years.


BLT, is this the pop sound that comes sometimes from turning? Mine sounds like something in the front end. I had someone look at it and he said the ball joints and everything else looked fine.

benwa
10-21-2004, 11:44 PM
Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/one.JPG

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI <----Right Click, Save As

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.

http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html

Scroll Down to Rattle.

There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.
Can't get the video! Just has the guy talking. No Picture!!

BlazerLT
10-21-2004, 11:53 PM
download the Divx codec

www.divx.com

And yes, you need to check if yours is loose.

Alexxn 00 Si
10-23-2004, 11:22 AM
Just did mine....my bolts had a shoulder just under the head that the washer fit nice and snugly against....I haven't driven it yet (going to takle the fuel filter now) but it didn't sseem to have any slop and the shoulder of the bolt fit nice and nug in the hinge hole even before I put in the new washer....we'll see soon !

BlazerLT
10-23-2004, 11:26 AM
You check for slop before you put the washers on.

did you do that?

Alexxn 00 Si
10-23-2004, 11:27 AM
Actually yes I did and everything seemed nice and tight...oh well it was only a few bucks for the washers and 10 minutes to do it - great tip though !

chcknugget
10-23-2004, 07:41 PM
My hood didn't really seem loose either, but when it went over bumps it would rattle bad. How did the fuel filter go? That's my next project...

BlazerLT
10-23-2004, 09:23 PM
PAin in the ass.

Fortiss
10-24-2004, 12:22 AM
I think its GM's way of making a little bit more cash in their colossal wallet!

BlazerLT
10-24-2004, 02:02 AM
hehe, or a way for dealerships to screw a couple extra dollars out of the consumer.

NizZ8
10-24-2004, 02:08 AM
Woot.. another one added to the list!.. thnx OP!

Alexxn 00 Si
10-24-2004, 09:51 AM
Fuel filter is the worst....especially getting it to slide out of that damn plastic ring...

BlazerLT
10-24-2004, 10:20 AM
Yea, that does suck.

I had to bash the old one with a screwdriver and hammer to get it out.

Best thing to do after is grease the ring so that the filter slides on easily and also put antiseize on the filter fitting where ever you screw a fitting into the filter on some years.

DeadPaisly
10-24-2004, 03:23 PM
Great Thread thanks,
I think this might be what I am hearing. I thought it might be my door hinge. It sems to disappear when I open the door. Maybe it is just drowned out by the road noise.
Anyways I can't view your video clip to work on 2 computers. I only get audio. I took the cowl off and I see the the bolt you speak of but I can't get it to rattle like you did. Want to make sure I am looking at the right place. Can you repost the video or post stills?

Thank you for any help.

Bill
DeadPaisly@hotmail.com



Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/one.JPG

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI <----Right Click, Save As

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.

http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html

Scroll Down to Rattle.

There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.[/QUOTE]

BlazerLT
10-24-2004, 05:54 PM
You need to install the dixc codec at www.divx.com

chcknugget
10-24-2004, 07:29 PM
The spring washers did solve all of my low speed problems, but not all of my high speed problems. Today on the highway it was windy and I was going about 75. I could see that just the passenger side of my front hood was shaking near the front of the car. It didn't make any sounds until the wind gusted hard and then I heard a little rattling.

Are those black rubber screwy bumpers supposed to prevent the front of the hood from shaking? I plan on wrenching the hinge bolts again tomorrow. It's wierd that only one side is shaking.

BlazerLT
10-24-2004, 08:20 PM
Hey relax on the overtorquing things.

Yes, unscrew those front bumper stop till the play out of the front is gone. That is what they are there for.

chcknugget
10-24-2004, 09:59 PM
Yeah, I didn't mean to say "plan on wrenching," I mean to try the bumper thing first. I'm not an overtorquing kind of guy. I'll be on the highway again next weekend, so I'll let you know how it goes.

BlazerLT
10-24-2004, 10:02 PM
The bumpers turn very easy and take the play completely out of the hood and should tighten it right up for you.

curtratcliff
10-24-2004, 11:08 PM
Thanks a million--We have been looking for this problem for 2 years...Thought it was coming from under the front right corner of the dash...really bad on washboard roads...This is it right? Buying the washers tomorrow...thanks again..

Guys,

I thought I found that the sway bar bushings were causing my front end passenger clunk and popping but guess what, they weren't.

Before I drop the bomb and show what I learned through scouring the internet, I have replaced the following:

Lower Ball Joints
Passenger Upper Ball Joint
Sway Bar End Links (Had to be replaced Anyways)
Sway Bar Bushings
Front and Rear Shocks

Total bill: ~US$600

After all of that, it wasn't even the problem. There is a service bulletin that talk about this in this upcoming video.

Want to know what the clunk is? Here you go!

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/one.JPG

Remove this 7mm screw holding the small outer cowl inserts over the hinges. Close the hood.

Remove the covers carefully and don't break the clips.

The hingles will be attached and they are a 13mm nut and bolt.

http://www.tweaknews.net/decarbon/clunkfix.AVI <----Right Click, Save As

That's right, a $2 dollar part fixes this problem that has pissed so many Blazer owners off.

This is the service bulletin that came out in 2001 I believe. Covers all S10 and Blazers.

http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html

Scroll Down to Rattle.

There you have it, I temporarily laid a couple bunched up shop towels under the flat part in the video and went for a drive on the roughest washboard road within 50 miles and never heard a thing.

Hope you don't go through what I went through.

chcknugget
10-24-2004, 11:14 PM
Yes, it was an annoying rattle that eminated from under the dash. This should almost definetely fix your problem!

curtratcliff
10-24-2004, 11:24 PM
Yes, it was an annoying rattle that eminated from under the dash. This should almost definetely fix your problem!

Thanks--We have spent more on this car than it is worth...hub bearings, ball joints, exc, exc,,.........no thanks to the dealer either. Grossinger GMC chicago!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

BlazerLT
10-25-2004, 12:11 PM
Glad this helped you.

wolfox
10-25-2004, 02:44 PM
I remained silent on posting results until after week of having this "fix" in place. It worked well on mine. I dropped $1.70 at the local Ace Hardware to get the spring washers. However, mine did NOT have plain old spring washers, but locking conical washers. Same diff, really, but they have a "star washer" pattern cut on the ouside edge. I would have cost half as much, but I bought 4 washers so I could have replacements on hand, or hand them off to the invariable friend that will have the same problem.

"Check yer hinge bolts dude - and put these in..."

The small end of the "cone" should face the hinge, the star shaped/broader cone side should cup around the head of the bolt itself. This will take the clearance right out and give you a solid, silent ride. Mine sounded like a bad shock or worn front end parts with a rattle coming from the driver's side dash, and a pronounced and very loud "clunk" on the passenger side that you could feel from your feet when they were flat on the floorboards.

It would seem that no amount of tightening would help this, but those bastardized locking cone washers did the trick for me. Again, mucho thank-you's on a sleuthing job well-done!

BlazerLT
10-25-2004, 02:47 PM
You are so welcome!

Amazing how such a small thing can solve such a big problem that has owners running to their local suspension shops and mechanics to have unneeded replacements done.

curtratcliff
10-25-2004, 06:32 PM
Just got mine...I'll let everyone know when they are installed....

just did hood today, thanks again!!!! Such an easy fix...the dealer sold the washer 12383460 in a pack of two for 2.39 wholesale (3.19 was the retail price)...awesome...you could almost see how pissed they were for not being able to keep charging (and I keep paying) for this noise that they 'couldn't find'...

BTW on the plastic covers that go over the hood hinges---I had to order the screw holders that seat down into the body because i trashed them by using a channel lock when they would not unscrew. Plastic GM crap. However, no more rattle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BlazerLT
10-25-2004, 07:35 PM
Awesome , another happy Blazer Owner.

cablep
10-27-2004, 12:30 PM
I have a 96 Jimmy. I have clunk/knock type of noise that is pretty much exclusive to turning. I can feel it in the floorboard when it happens. Is this the same noise you are refering to with this fix?

BlazerLT
10-27-2004, 07:43 PM
More than likely.

cobra1
10-28-2004, 03:50 AM
I have a 96 Jimmy. I have clunk/knock type of noise that is pretty much exclusive to turning. I can feel it in the floorboard when it happens. Is this the same noise you are refering to with this fix?

as previously stated, it could be. but feeling it in the floor board could also be torsion bar mounts.

the washers are cheap, so no harm trying that first. however if the noise remains i'd look at the torsion bar mounts next.

BlazerLT
10-28-2004, 04:02 AM
Torsion bar mounts don't exist on the 2nd generation blazer.

They only occur on the 1994 and older first generation s-series.

cobra1
10-28-2004, 08:11 AM
Torsion bar mounts don't exist on the 2nd generation blazer.

They only occur on the 1994 and older first generation s-series.

so then i guess the torsion bars on my 2000 Blazer arent really there. and where they attach doesnt exist either?

BlazerLT
10-28-2004, 03:43 PM
Go under your vehicle.

The crossmember that the torsion bars are attached to do NOT have the same frame mounts as the 1994 and older s-series.

Those are the mounts on the 1994 and older that make the clunk. We don't have those on 1995 and newer blazers and jimmy, they have a newer system for ours.

This is the system in the 1994 and we don't have it:

Here is the link:

http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=torsion_bar_mounts.ph p&dir=suspension

We don't have that system in the second generation.

cobra1
10-29-2004, 04:16 AM
i found what i read... although it doesnt apply to the '96, its for '98-up. i knew it involved the torsion bar, and a clunk. :screwy:


Clunk Noise Felt Through
Floor Pan
Affected Models:
1998-2003 Chevrolet S-10, Blazer
1998-2001 GMC Envoy, Sonoma,
Jimmy (US), and Oldsmobile Bravada
1998-2003 GMC Jimmy (Canada)
Some owners of the listed vehicles
may experience a clunk noise that can be
felt through the floor pan.

This condition may be caused by the
torsion bar crossmember contacting the
frame rails during left or right turns or on
uneven surfaces.

Determine if the clearance between
the left frame rail to crossmember and
right frame rail to crossmember are equal.
If not, install either a washer or alignment
shim between the upper mount and
frame.
Refer to SI document 539243. This
document includes a component diagram
of the torsion bar crossmember to frame
rail assembly and may provide assistance
in the repair.

BlazerLT
10-29-2004, 02:46 PM
True, but it doesn't involve a mount like the 1994 and older s-series.

JimmyGold
10-30-2004, 10:25 AM
Hi Guys,

Blazer LT I'm going to check into your post, I must admit that I am skeptical because the clunk comes through the floor pan. Cobra1's post is correct because I found that bulletin 2 years ago, and I had it fixed when my vehicle still had a warranty. The dealer replaced the sway bar and the clunk went away. About 8 months later it came right back! I just live with it now.

BUT there is another noise - rattle that seems to come from behind the dashboard, I took out my dashboard looking for something that was loose to no avail. Maybe your post addresses that - I'll give it a shot. In either case thanks for being so informed it is a big help!

JimmyGold
10-30-2004, 10:40 AM
Blazer,

If you check the second link that you sent in the original post from the ZR2 forum, there is a seperate section for "clunking" that is different from the "rattle"


http://www.zr2.com/frequently_asked_questions/problems/clunking.html


I think this the answer, truth is the problem is not a big deal. Again, I will try the solution for the rattle

Regards

BlazerLT
10-30-2004, 03:04 PM
There are no torsion crossmember mounts on a 1995 and newer s-series.

That link you have from the site is for a DRIVELINE clunk from the driveline going from park to drive and not the suspension.

The rattle behind the dash is definitely the hood.

jimmygmc00
11-09-2004, 09:20 PM
I am new to the site and found some great info.
I have a 2000 Jimmy and have had the same problem popping. I replaced both hub assemblies and still popping real bad. Just went today and had everything greased for the second time. I thought maybe the grease had dispersed so much that it needed more. I was considering the ball joints next. Now I will definetly check on the washers.

Has anyone with this problem heard a popping crackling noise at the bottom of the windshield on the drivers side? Did the washers fix this too?
-Thanks Blazer.

BlazerLT
11-09-2004, 09:56 PM
Yes, it affects both of them.

Don't replace anything else, just replace the washers. Trust me, the noise will be gone.

xokayxo
11-27-2004, 04:37 PM
Where can I find MORE updates from GM?

**EDIT**
Found it:

http://www.alldata.com/recalls/index.html

BlazerLT
11-27-2004, 07:01 PM
alldata.com

xokayxo
11-28-2004, 08:58 PM
Hey guys,
After reading about this simple fix, I wrote down the part number and took it to my GM dealer. They couldn't find the part number in their system and on their diagrams there wasn't even a washer on the hood hinge at all (apparently since it's an updated part they don't have it in stock and why it's also not on their diagrams). They said they would either have to special order it or I can get one at the other GM dealer across town and they've only got two in stock. Someone also said they got a washer at Ace Hardware that worked just as well. I tried that as well, to no avail. One person called this washer that I need a "spring washer" and another called it a "locking conical washer." Which is the right name for this part so I don't look like a fool running around for it?

BlazerLT
11-28-2004, 09:02 PM
That is the right part number, I got them here at the dealer with that exact number.

Go with the exact washer that I quoted.

It is the perfect thickness and size for the application.

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