i have bout 90k on my replaced engine..... you think i should go to synthetic? i use synthetic in all my hondas...like i stated before i have no clue bout anything to do with this blazer i just got it and the person who delivered it was the father not the son whos blazer it was so he knew nothing... so where can i get this flush??? will it harm any gaskets or rings or anything how does it work i mean what are the steps? im trying to make my blazer the most reliable as possible and the most fuel efficient as well. i am very broke so i am trying to treat stuff with care now .....

The 95 Blazer I just did this to has 112K on it.

As for my GUNK Motor Flush, I followed the directions on the can which states to poor it in a cold engine, start engine and operate for 5 minutes at an idle, do not drive. I only mention this as I noticed wolfox says 20-30 mintues, I'm sure longer would clean better, I just chose to go by the letter. Also as Wolfox mentions, make room in the crank case for the quart of motor flush. I drained about a quart out prior to adding the motor flush. When draining the engine after the engine idle flush period, give it plenty of time to drain, I let mine drip for about an hour. Wanted to make sure I had as much of that stuff out as possible.

I'll be doing it to my 93 which also has 112K on it.

5 minutes will net nothing on a cold engine and that is why I say to go for 30 minutes so the engine can warm up and the flush can do its job.

wats wrong with fram??? i thought they were good thats all i used... whats the best?? and can it be used on my hondas too...

5 minutes will net nothing on a cold engine and that is why I say to go for 30 minutes so the engine can warm up and the flush can do its job.

YMMV, I'd feel pretty bad if something happened to someone’s engine on my recommendation of not following the manufacturer’s direction for use of a product. If I had considerable experience with a particular product, I'd probably feel compelled to adjust my own use of it, but would still refrain from persuading other to do so. That is the only reason I pointed the time frame out. Like I had said previously, my oil looks like I just poured it in after 500 miles, so surely it done some good.

wats wrong with fram??? i thought they were good thats all i used... whats the best?? and can it be used on my hondas too...

No Fram for ANYTHING.

Fram are completel junk and the construction quality is the worst in the business.

Buy anything other than Fram. WIX, AC Delco, Mobil1, STP, SuperTech, Quaker State, Prulator are all good filters.

YMMV, I'd feel pretty bad if something happened to someone’s engine on my recommendation of not following the manufacturer’s direction for use of a product. If I had considerable experience with a particular product, I'd probably feel compelled to adjust my own use of it, but would still refrain from persuading other to do so. That is the only reason I pointed the time frame out. Like I had said previously, my oil looks like I just poured it in after 500 miles, so surely it done some good.

This is true, but remember that it says on the bottle to add it to a warm engine and idle for 5-10 minutes.

If someone is doing this more often than not the engine will be cold and an idling engine will take close to 10-15 minutes to warm up anyways.

So essentially, we are both right.

No Fram for ANYTHING.

Fram are completel junk and the construction quality is the worst in the business.

Buy anything other than Fram. WIX, AC Delco, Mobil1, STP, SuperTech, Quaker State, Prulator are all good filters.
Quaker State filters are contructed like the fram extra guard, and shouldn't be used.

Quaker State filters are contructed like the fram extra guard, and shouldn't be used.

The white Quaker State filters are made by purolator.

The older green ones which have been off the shelf for quite a while now were Frams, but not anymore.

Reference. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002456

Also, I use the quaker state filters myself and have cut them open. They are not Frams at all.

The white Quaker State filters are made by purolator.

The older green ones which have been off the shelf for quite a while now were Frams, but not anymore.

No, the old ones were made by Purolator. The new ones are made like the fram filters.

No, the old ones were made by Purolator. The new ones are made like the fram filters.

I am sorry, but you are incorrect. The new white filters are purolator and you can call quaker state yourself and ask them if you would like.

I use quaker state filters on my truck and have thoroughly deconstructed 4 of their filters and they are not fram filters at all.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002456

As I said before, the old ones were made by Purolator. The new one have been contructed like the Fram filters since Pennsoil took over.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

I am sorry, but your information is completely outdated and 2-3 years old there.

Quaker State filters went over to purolator construction over a year ago.

The older green quaker state filters were Frams for sure, but the new Quaker state white filters are a rebadged Purolator Premium plus filter with just a hair less media.

Honestly, call Quaker State and they will tell you the same.

I don't know why you are arguing, I use them on my truck and they are NOT Extra Guards and they are not even the same manufacturer.

Here is some more proof for you:

Nov 2005: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=003107#000000

This is true, but remember that it says on the bottle to add it to a warm engine and idle for 5-10 minutes.

If someone is doing this more often than not the engine will be cold and an idling engine will take close to 10-15 minutes to warm up anyways.

So essentially, we are both right.

On my bottle of Gunk Engine flush it read, add to cold engine and operate for 5 minutes. I had previously viewed bottles of various brands at the parts store awhile back and do recall them varying in amount of time to use the stuff.

I am sorry, but your information is completely outdated and 2-3 years old there.

Quaker State filters went over to purolator construction over a year ago.

The older green quaker state filters were Frams for sure, but the new Quaker state white filters are a rebadged Purolator Premium plus filter with just a hair less media.

Honestly, call Quaker State and they will tell you the same.

I don't know why you are arguing, I use them on my truck and they are NOT Extra Guards and they are not even the same manufacturer.

Here is some more proof for you:

Nov 2005: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=003107#000000

I know that Quaker State were Purolator several years ago (those filters were green), and a few years ago Pennsoil bought the Quaker State brand name and started making the Quaker Sate Filters like the Fram . I'll admit that (according to that link) they appear to be better constructed than they used to be. I didn't know that Purolator had recently started making them again.

You'd have to be out of your mind to buy an oil filter from this guy...
http://www.quakeroats.com/images/home-qfblogo.gif

I know that Quaker State were Purolator several years ago (those filters were green), and a few years ago Pennsoil bought the Quaker State brand name and started making the Quaker Sate Filters like the Fram . I'll admit that (according to that link) they appear to be better constructed than they used to be. I didn't know that Purolator had recently started making them again.

*Edited due to misunderstanding.*

The green variety were Frams for quite some time but the distributor, Sobus, switched over to Purolator for close to two years now.

great filter for the money and excellent flow.

**Edited** Misunderstanding was realized.

You'd have to be out of your mind to buy an oil filter from this guy...
http://www.quakeroats.com/images/home-qfblogo.gif

Oh, I don't know, I like his OatMeal... Especially the Maple and Brown Sugar.

I used on my last oil change Mobil1 Full Synthetic and a K&N filter. I have a 2000 Sentra with a 1.8 engine. Is this oil change going to offer me very good protection for 10.000 miles or I should replace the filter at every 5.000 but keep the oil for 10.000 ?
Any ideas ?
I have 67k miles.

filter every 5000 unless you are using the Mobil1 extended life filter.

You should be completely fine.

Just use a great oil filter for your application and for the first time using synthetic, change it out after 5000miles seeing you will see the tremendous amount of crud it will be removing and it will get pretty dirty pretty fast.

Just don't use a fram oil filter. Use a Wix, Supertech, Purolator, AC Delco, Napa (Wix) to be safe and get proper filtering.


What about the Mobil 1 filter? I thought it was one of the best. Better than Wix for sure! Remember the oil filter test link a long time ago? I have been using Mobil 1 filter ever since. And if I change my oil over to synthetic will I have to worry about oil leaks? 1993 S-10 with 117,000 on it. And what flush kit should I get? Thanks for any info!!

I have a 2001 Jimmy with 139K miles. I have been running synthetic since purchase. I have been using German Castrol synthetic 0W-30 for about two years. I used M1 prior to that. I installed a bypass oil filter system right after the warrenty expired. I typicaly run the oil for about 20K miles and change the bypass filter every 3K miles. The oil always looks like new when checking oil level.

The engine runs very well and burns very little oil. I drive approximatly 2 1/2 hours per day on the expressway ( 70 to 80 MPH) going to work.

MMMMM...Maple brown sugar